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fseva

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About fseva

  • Rank
    MCM Ohana
  • Birthday 12/02/1949

Previous Fields

  • Scale I Build
    1:25

Profile Information

  • Location
    WISCONSIN - USA
  • Full Name
    Frank Eva
  1. What's not to like?! I wish my builds were as good as your "four day Chevy adventure"!
  2. No, sorry... but the color chip can be found at http://www.tcpglobal.com/Automotive-Paint/House-of-Kolor-Paint-Kandy-Basecoats-KBC/...
  3. Floquil was the main line of paints for The Floquil Corp. before they were sold to Testors. It was their solvent-based paint... guess you could have referred to them as "enamels" - they were all flat. Several companies have been in the process of releasing replacements: Tru-Color Paint, Micro-Mark, and even Testors has brought some of the generic colors back under either the Testors or Model Master brands.
  4. Yes! I recently tried Brandywine over white primer, and it worked great! This is one of their basecoat Kandies, which I think means that they don't absolutely need a metallic base first... they're a combination of Kandie and Pearl.
  5. I saw on the website that they were working on one. I did some testing of a clear that Jameston sent to me with an order... Had a lot of trouble with it - several coats over a pearl or metallic and I started to get what looked to be "frost" in patches - not all over. I eventually just went back to good old One-Coat Clear by Testors.
  6. I can only speak about White, but I've gone through a few choices and have found that Lifecolor is the best - they make a flat and a gloss, and they're the only ones I'll use for brush painting. Same goes for 3 blacks (matt, satin, gloss). BTW, I really love Lifecolor's paint packaging... they have a small round "plug" molded into the cap, that keeps most of the paint away from the rim when you shake the jar. I usually work right out of this little "dimple" - it's like a little palette. Sure wish Testors would upgrade their stuff.
  7. So, would you say that if you have Micro-Solv, it will do the same job as the solutions by Mr. and Tamiya?
  8. Photoetched lettering

    I personally don't think you'll have much choice... in other words, these are all produced independently, and because there's so much expense involved in designing and making them, if there's already a set out there, no one will attempt to do a competing set that will just have its potential for future sales already inhibited. Regardless of the situation, imho if you can find a set by Model Car Garage, you should probably just buy it... you can be assured that it is a very good set, because MCG does not make garbage.
  9. Don't start to think that a 50:50 ratio will ALWAYS do the trick for craft paint... it's a good starting point, but I have tried 50:50 and found that I still needed more thinner, to get it through my airbrush and atomize well.
  10. I just thought of an interesting point... last time I checked out Micro-Scale's website, I could not find "Micro-Set" anywhere! It seems as if the company has retired it, and now they're only making Micro-Solv! If you can find Micro-Set at your LHS, it's probably older stock...
  11. I picked up some Tamiya Mark Fit Strong, thinking that it would be stronger on the tough decals, but to be perfectly honest, I didn't see it doing anything at all. I was at first worried that it would dissolve the decals, but after using it several times, it isn't any better than Micro-Sol. BTW, Micro-Set is a "before decaling" application, that's supposed to set up the surface to receive the decals. I don't think it does anything after applying them...
  12. 1970 Cayuse 2+2

    Wow - now there's something you won't see every day!
  13. Paint help

    Here's a "tankless" compressor that has the specs... according to Amazon.com... This tankless airbrush compressor delivers excellent power (1/5 horse) with very little noise (55 db) thanks to its precision-forged piston. Sensitive, diaphragm regulator with integrated pressure gauge and water-trap allows precise control and delivery of clean, dry air. On-demand operation; the compressor runs until its pressure reaches approximately 58 psi, then it cycles off until the pressure drops to 40 psi, where the unit restarts. This auto-start/stop feature saves power and reduces motor wear & heat while maintaining enough pressure to operate most airbrushes. Compact and lightweight (8 lbs.) with easy-carry handle. Rubber feet to protect your work surface. Oil-less design makes this compressor suitable for food decorating and body/nail art along with all other standard airbrushing applications. Approximate air delivery of 1.0 CFM. Connections: 1/8" BSP male outlet. Dimensions: 10" long, 4" wide, 7" tall. Grounded 120 volt power cord (6'). Model: Elite-125x from PointZero Airbrush. Maintenance-free, CE certified and thermally-protected. I don't know how they do it without a tank to store the air... anybody?
  14. Paint help

    That's pretty good! I'll have to check out their website and see if I can find a printed statisic... Well, that was disappointing - you'd think such a thing would be at least mentioned by the mfr! Here's all that Paasche had to say, "D3000R 1/8 HP Compressor with Tank, Regulator and Moisture Trap. 1/8 H.P. tank mounted piston compressor with regulator & moisture trap. The tank fills to 40 PSI and shutoff. Will deliver up to 20-30 PSI depending on airbrush being used. Noise level is 47 dbs." I would have liked to see "fills to 40psi and then refills again at 20psi"... that is what seems to be happening, and it's similar to what I'm experiencing with my Sparmax. To be honest with you, that compressor is a bit underpowered... a more powerful compressor might have allowed a longer "off" period...