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fseva

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Posts posted by fseva


  1. Very cool.  Thanks for the tip!

    Is Floquil the same thing?

    Floquil was the main line of paints for The Floquil Corp. before they were sold to Testors. It was their solvent-based paint... guess you could have referred to them as "enamels" - they were all flat. Several companies have been in the process of releasing replacements: Tru-Color Paint, Micro-Mark, and even Testors has brought some of the generic colors back under either the Testors or Model Master brands.


  2. I read somewhere lately that they have a 2 part automotive clear. I sent two emails to them with no response. Do they have a phone number or another way of contacting them? 

    I saw on the website that they were working on one. I did some testing of a clear that Jameston sent to me with an order... Had a lot of trouble with it - several coats over a pearl or metallic and I started to get what looked to be "frost" in patches - not all over. I eventually just went back to good old One-Coat Clear by Testors.


  3. Hey guys here again.  I've got some OCD that I cannot accept some small mistakes on the car body so I got plenty of them waiting to be remove the paints.

    I usually use Tamiya spray can as TS-XX. I know how to remove them, use GAIA T-11S, it's kind of paint remover. But the q is, it only 250ml for each also expensive.

    So you guys know how to remove this paints? all I know, TS-XX belongs to lacquers. I did some search that oven cleaner can remove paints but it seems doesn't work on lacquers...

    Have you tried alcohol? 


  4. While I'm enjoying Tamiya and Vallejo, what do you like for colors like yellow, white and any other hard to brush paint colors that I haven't touched on?

    I can only speak about White, but I've gone through a few choices and have found that Lifecolor is the best - they make a flat and a gloss, and they're the only ones I'll use for brush painting. Same goes for 3 blacks (matt, satin, gloss). BTW, I really love Lifecolor's paint packaging... they have a small round "plug" molded into the cap, that keeps most of the paint away from the rim when you shake the jar. I usually work right out of this little "dimple" - it's like a little palette. Sure wish Testors would upgrade their stuff.


  5. personally i think micro set is pointless you can just use water, the softer works tho they both do the same thing.. For instance my mr mark setter says this

    • For decals, Mr.Mark Setter both softens and strengthens adhesiveness.
    • Mr.Mark Setter is applied to position the decal over the area.
    • Apply the decal.
    • You can apply Mr.Mark Softer on the decal when necessary.

    That right there basically says the same thing as the mr mark softer except the softer says it helps on rough spots or curved applications. So my guess is they both soften the decal, and as with the tamiya, mark fit & mark fit stronger, there just tamiya's brand of setter and softer. However I bet it would ruin the decal (Mark Fit Strong) if used heavily, but I think it would have to be a lot. And that stuff is made specifically for tamiya's decals since they are a tad bit thicker then american kits but not by much, so you probably won't notice much of a difference.

    So, would you say that if you have Micro-Solv, it will do the same job as the solutions by Mr. and Tamiya?


  6. Who are the best manufacturers of this type of replacement badges and what is a good site to buy them? Thanks, Jack

    I personally don't think you'll have much choice... in other words, these are all produced independently, and because there's so much expense involved in designing and making them, if there's already a set out there, no one will attempt to do a competing set that will just have its potential for future sales already inhibited. 

    Regardless of the situation, imho if you can find a set by Model Car Garage, you should probably just buy it... you can be assured that it is a very good set, because MCG does not make garbage.


  7. The common setting solutions micro sol and micro set will be fine, I use mr mark setter and mr mark softer and for tamiya's I use tamiya's mark fit strong. All in which can be used on lacquer and any dried paint.

    I've heard micro sol and set is mainly better for the american model kits and obviously the mr mark setter and softer and tamiya mark fit, are better for Japanese model kit decals. Whether thats true or not, Im not sure. 

    I picked up some Tamiya Mark Fit Strong, thinking that it would be stronger on the tough decals, but to be perfectly honest, I didn't see it doing anything at all. I was at first worried that it would dissolve the decals, but after using it several times, it isn't any better than Micro-Sol.

    BTW, Micro-Set is a "before decaling" application, that's supposed to set up the surface to receive the decals. I don't think it does anything after applying them...


  8. Here's a "tankless" compressor that has the specs... according to Amazon.com...

    This tankless airbrush compressor delivers excellent power (1/5 horse) with very little noise (55 db) thanks to its precision-forged piston. Sensitive, diaphragm regulator with integrated pressure gauge and water-trap allows precise control and delivery of clean, dry air. On-demand operation; the compressor runs until its pressure reaches approximately 58 psi, then it cycles off until the pressure drops to 40 psi, where the unit restarts. This auto-start/stop feature saves power and reduces motor wear & heat while maintaining enough pressure to operate most airbrushes. Compact and lightweight (8 lbs.) with easy-carry handle. Rubber feet to protect your work surface. Oil-less design makes this compressor suitable for food decorating and body/nail art along with all other standard airbrushing applications. Approximate air delivery of 1.0 CFM. Connections: 1/8" BSP male outlet. Dimensions: 10" long, 4" wide, 7" tall. Grounded 120 volt power cord (6'). Model: Elite-125x from PointZero Airbrush. Maintenance-free, CE certified and thermally-protected.

    I don't know how they do it without a tank to store the air... anybody?


  9. Just using it for my second time today. At 30 psi, with continuous spray from a full tank, it comes on after about 20-25 seconds. If you normally spray with it, shirt bursts, it comes on after about 45 seconds to 1 minute.

    That's pretty good! I'll have to check out their website and see if I can find a printed statisic...

    Well, that was disappointing - you'd think such a thing would be at least mentioned by the mfr! Here's all that Paasche had to say, "D3000R 1/8 HP Compressor with Tank, Regulator and Moisture Trap. 1/8 H.P. tank mounted piston compressor with regulator & moisture trap. The tank fills to 40 PSI and shutoff. Will deliver up to 20-30 PSI depending on airbrush being used.  Noise level is 47 dbs." 

    I would have liked to see "fills to 40psi and then refills again at 20psi"... that is what seems to be happening, and it's similar to what I'm experiencing with my Sparmax. To be honest with you, that compressor is a bit underpowered... a more powerful compressor might have allowed a longer "off" period...


  10. Which setting solution is best on decals that are applied on lacquer, specifically Testors Custom Lacquer System?

    Is setting solution necessary?

    Not always... setting solutions are helpful when "flat" decals are not conforming well to "curved" or "uneven" surfaces. You can try other things first... such as applying a towel soaked in warm/hot water to the area. Some folks swear that Future, when applied before decals, will help them adhere/conform better, but I've never tried this one myself. Recently though, I found that even after many applications of Micro-Sol, I still had parts of a decal that simply would not conform, and I wound up slitting them so that they could fold over themselves, and that way they conformed, but with an obvious break in the smooth line of the graphic.


  11. What is the working time (if any) with these products...quite often you need some to to adjust or square up parts before the solvents sets.

    I just put some wheels/backers together - they're the type that have alignment holes which are then matched to "dimples" on the backer. This alignment process can take a couple seconds, but Weld-On 3 allowed that, and after a few seconds more, they were ready to be inserted into the tires.


  12. Is Plastruct Inc - Plastic Weld Plastic Solvent Cement still available. My LHS no longer stocks it. And, I`m haveing a challenging time finding it on-line.

    And, since I`m on the topic how do the others similar plastic cement acetone (CH3)2CO content solvents (Tamiya Extra Thin Cement, Tenax-7R, Ambroid Pro-Weld, Micro-Mark Same Stuff etc.) stack up as far as bonding power and bonding time.

    A friend loves the thin brush applicator that comes with the Tamiya Extra Thin cement; he says its like a "mini paint brush", unlike the much larger bristle brush that comes with the others solvent type cements.

    I have found Tenax the very best of the hobby solvents. The mfr just recently brought the product back out of "retirement".

    Another great deal is Weld-On 3 which is available in 4oz cans on Amazon. I personally think it works faster than Tenax, and it has become my go-to solvent. However, the metal can it comes in can be a hassle. So, I invested in a metal funnel so that I can pour from the can into the smaller glass bottles I saved... and I also have a brush in one that makes applying WO3 an easy process. (It's one of the larger bristle brushes).


  13. Frank, you want to go to your settings bar (click on your name on the upper right hand corner) then account settings. When you get to that page, find where it says "signature", and then click on that.

    There you can edit your URL by typing whatever words you want it to say in the text box, highlighting it, then click the "chain" button in your text box (next to the U). Then, you can paste in your URL, and the editor will turn those words into HTML.

    I did something similar in my signature----------I hate super long URL's frankly as I find them terrifically annoying (eBay's are the worst!).

    Bill, I was able to do this in "my signature" and "about me", but when I copied the link to "Personal Website", the link code was automatically translated into text so that either I got "My Gallery" with no link or a 3-line truncated address. I believe that this is something a moderator would have to fix, to make this URL look at an entry as "rich text" rather than plain text. Regardless, thanks for trying!


  14. This is a part of the edit profile feature - my personal website URL is truncated over 3 lines, and is not clickable (to allow a user to click on the link and go right to the site).

    Is there any way that I can make this a link rather than requiring users to copy the entire 3 line URL and enter it into the address bar of a browser?


  15. which brand of lacquer do you use? Are they in spray cans or made specifically for airbrushing? 

    I have used Model Master and Testors, which start out in spray cans - I decant for airbrushing, and sometimes will spray direct from the can after the hard-to-reach areas have been hit with the airbrush. I have also used Duplicolor Perfect Match in spray cans (again, I decanted them, but I do believe they are available in larger quantities if you want to spend the money (this is what pro shops would use). However, I recently had another disaster with Duplicolor and have decided there are just too many things that can go wrong with them, and have moved on. My most recent experiments were with House of Kolor (Valspar), and I was able to purchase small quantities from Coast Airbrush. I really like the results - this is the first clear I've successfully airbrushed on that is so hard when it cures in my food dehydrator, that you really have to work to get the orange peel out! ;)


  16. Agree with most all of the comments above.  Never tried the Duplicolor primers.  Have always used the cheap Walmart primers with Krylon acrylic clear.

    Were you aware that some of these products are enamel-based? They do have an odor that can be offensive to some users, and I have a feeling that this odor is a good sign of a higher level of toxicity. So, if you spray them outside, you'll be OK, but in a confined space, this might be more harmful than other types.

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