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fseva

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Everything posted by fseva

  1. 1. Is your enamel paint nice and shiny? Or is it flat? If it's flat, you have applied a basecoat, which would then require clearcoating to obtain a nice shine. If it's already shiny, you have to decide whether or not you want it to look better. You can polish the cured enamel, or you can clearcoat... and then, perhaps you'll also decide to polish the clear, which depending on how much work you're willing to do, could improve that further. 2. My current favorite is Testors One-Coat Lacquer. It's cheap, and it produces instant results. It is also cooler than the modern acrylic enamels, and consequently more useful over a number of paint types. Hope this helps...
  2. Gotta be a reason why they do not recommend Chrome as a base for their enamel candies...
  3. Yes, I also gave up on the 12-step Micromesh process. Just don't see that much difference between it and my low-tech use of Tamiya Compounds. I also don't like the idea of having to apply 3 or more coats of clear, to keep from sanding through the paint and leaving a divot.
  4. OK - let's see if I have this right - Novus products are more for unpainted models, before a primer? If so, you then have to carefully wash the models after they've been "smoothed"? Do I have that right? And Novus 2 is really the only one that could be used as an after-paint polish?
  5. Novus 1 is not really a polish. From my understanding, it's simply a weak plastic cleaner. Novus 2 is a fine compound, and Novus 3 is a coarse compound. I no longer use #3 for polishing - it's just too gritty for me. I prefer Tamiya's compounds, starting with their Coarse, then Fine, and finally Finish. Some times my paint is pretty good looking and I start with Fine.
  6. I tried Aztek Airbrushables when I came back to the hobby about 2006. They did look nice, but my biggest gripe about acrylics back then was that I could not get a "deep" shine, and the stuff always peeled when removing tape. I've been thinking of trying Aztek again, and just today, I airbrushed Red Pearl on a car body, after spraying on a few quick coats of Duplicolor Adhesion Promoter (think of clear primer). Looks very nice, but I have no reason to tape anything; so, I'm not going to tempt fate. I also tried Future as a clearcoat, and that looked nice too, but you really have to make sure you don't apply too much, or it will flow to the lowest level and puddle up there. I still don't see me switching from lacquers, though, because while one coat of Future looks OK, it hasn't got the depth that one coat of Testors lacquer gives me.
  7. I'm pretty sure Testors is now owned by Hobbico...
  8. I haven't had a lot of success with Alclad, but I've tried all the alternatives and I found that AK Interactive's Chrome works better, is less finicky, and can be handled a bit more than Alclad. It is true that you can apply too much paint, and it will start to look like plain old silver paint. To get the reflectivity you want, you need to be very patient, spraying on light coats until just about full coverage. If you're not sure, stop spraying and take a breather. Then, look at the results again - if you're happy that you've got good reflectivity and coverage, put your airbrush away and call it a session!
  9. I'm glad you spoke up, Richard - I just started a new project that features an acrylic on the body, and I was going to apply Future as my clearcoat. Now, I will not expect to polish it. I hope that several coats of Future will build up the deepness of the gloss so that it doesn't need to be polished.
  10. Wow! Gotta bunch of questions - is it black metallic? Did you use real wood on the bed? BTW, nice flat white grille!
  11. It's a beautiful build! The photo above looks just about right for full sun. Next time, you might consider waiting for a cloudy day... or perhaps use your flash to help "fill" the shadow areas.
  12. Will Future polish to a higher gloss, without damage?
  13. Recently, I asked if someone had experienced the problem of a bowlegged front end on an AMT 1966 Buick Riviera. Well, armed with the info I received, I bought another kit and just started it yesterday. Needless to say, when I got to assembling the front end, I was very careful... and I found the reason why my first front end turned out bowlegged - it has to do with a printing error in the instructions - parts 23 and 24 should actually be installed reversed - check the size of the pins on each A arm, and you will see that 23 should go where 24 goes, and vice versa! Once this is done, the front end lines up perfectly, without a bowlegged stance!
  14. Oh, and I forgot your original question... I would strip the part using some safe degreaser, such as Simple Green, Super Clean, or Purple Power. Acrylics should respond fast to these "strippers".
  15. Hate to see a fellow modeler going through the same problems I had when attempting to make acrylics work, in producing gorgeous paint jobs that I saw online and in magazines. The only thing I can tell you about your problem is something I discovered early on... Just because an acrylic "feels" dry, it does not mean that the paint has "cured". To get fully hardened (cured), you will need either more patience (wait for a few days) or a food dehydrator, and if you're really impatient, I have heard that a portable hair dryer will cure acrylics as fast as blow-drying your hair. But the paint MUST BE completely cured in order to resist the pull of masking tape. Hope this helps!
  16. OK - that makes sense! Sounds like what I did with a 71 Duster and a set of air-shocks! Up when the law wasn't around - down when they were!
  17. Would it cut down on the noise up-front where the driver is openly exposed to it? That would be a practical use for having both, and especially being able to still display those beautiful headers...
  18. Tim, I don't know much about cars. So, please go easy on me if I sound like a simpleton... I'm curious to know why you would have nice chromed headers on a 1:1 build like this, when you were planning on diverting the exhaust to regular mufflers & tailpipes?
  19. This is Inspire Red, and I liked the satin finish so much, I decided not to clearcoat!
  20. If polished or brushed stainless were both options, what was considered stock?
  21. This project went so well, I wished AMT had taken as many pains with the Cameo and the Texaco pickups! http://s909.photobucket.com/user/evafrank123/library/55 Chevy Stepside?sort=3&page=1
  22. I'm in the process of building this kit and have found the chromed exhaust pipes and glasspack mufflers to be a very big contrast to the rest of the build of this "street machine". Would it be better if these were painted the same as the headers (flat white)?
  23. That only took 5 days?! Wow - you are good!
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