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fseva

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Everything posted by fseva

  1. That's just a little over 10psi... not really enough for most of our work... imo...
  2. I have less trouble doing the decorative side-spears, etc., than I do the frames around the windows... That's where I'm having the most trouble, but I believe my problem inside the model is exactly what you've stated - the paint (if there's any there) is unfinished and grainy - a surface that is just impossible for BMF to hold on to. I'm starting now to actually airbrush the inside of the window frames in preparation for foil that's folded over from the outside.
  3. I can assure you, most of my paint jobs right "out of the shop" look little if any better than the worst of yours. The trick is all in the color-sanding and polishing, whether of the colored paint or the clearcoat. Well, that and pre-primer preparation of the body itself. As they say in rock n roll: "We'll fix it in the mix." Same here. I guess there are "pros" on the forum who can muster perfect paint jobs every time with no polishing, but I'm not one of them. I just strive to do as little of it as possible, because I absolutely hate polishing!! I don't mind polishing, but BMF was going to be the death-of-the-hobby for me... I took days and days to get up the desire to BMF an entire model... even broke up the session into smaller sub-sessions, but no matter, I still hated it. And I hated it even more when I started having trouble with it sticking! BTW, I do consider you to be one of those "pros on the forum", for whatever reason including ones you hate, you sure turn out some drop-dead gorgeous finished pieces!!! Are you saying that all you ever do is paint and you're done? Do you get a full-blown deep gloss from your paint?
  4. I've read about using that here on this site. I'll be grabbing a can,... as soon as I can. I'll also be getting some carnauba wax. I thought I had some, but I certainly can't seem to find it now. I'll probably (or maybe), also grab a set of the Tamiya polishes. Thanks for the input. I have a big thing of Carnauba Wax, as well. However, I'm not sure why I'd ever use it?! Once you get done polishing your clearcoat, there's no major reason to throw wax on top of it... all I can see is that sticky wax would have to be really rubbed into the surface to keep it from becoming a dust-collector or a fingerprint collector... Well, if you can save some $$$ by not buying the wax, you can always put it into new polishing compounds and ditch that toothpaste!
  5. I would also recommend ditching the toothpaste as a polishing compound - you really aren't going to be able to tell what type or how much the grit here compares to regular sandpaper. And if I'm not mistaken, Novus is for "clear parts" specifically, although folks have had success with 2 & 3 (fine and coarse) as polishing compounds. #1, as far as I know, has zero abrasives, and is more a "cleaner" than a polisher. You could use an automotive polishing compound (i.e. Meguiars), but I wasn't sure about the same issue because the product was to be used in 1:1 cars. So, I since then invested in Tamiya's 3-Step Polishing Compound (coarse, fine, finish), and I feel assured that my products is manufactured strictly for model work, and by a company that manufactures styrene car kits. Lastly, your best bet in the final issue is that you should never clearcoat if there's any chance that you may need to lay down some paint after the clear. If you never do it, you can never have an accident!
  6. Perhaps you're expecting too much of your clears? While One-Coat Lacquer works very good if you apply 3 quick coats (as stated), that's not necessarily where it ends. If you want a "deep" shine, deeper than One-Coat out of the can, you're going to have to polish the surface to remove any imperfections, like orange peel, trash, or too much clear resulting in puddling or running. Polishing is a procedure that uses progressively finer grits, which actually do remove some of the clear, but in the process, you get a much smoother finish, which in theory should make the gloss deeper and more shiny. Then, there are to 2-part clears... but that's another story...
  7. Are you really using "glitter"? I'm thinking that it might be heavier than what manufacturers usually use in clears... Perhaps you should try PearlEx, which is a very finely powdered metallic additive - you might have better success with it. I have used it in Testors 1-Coat Clear, but I remember how it does still separate from the clear and pile up on the bottom. Just have to shake it up occasionally while using it...
  8. I used the suggestions on my latest build of a Viper GTS - there was a mold line directly above the beautiful Viper badges on the front quarter panels. I covered them with blue painters tape and went to work on the line. I was skeptical, but I never had to sand hard enough to wear through the tape. So, my badges are intact! Thanks guys!
  9. That's basically where I am with plug wires - I love doing hemis because I can actually see where the wires go! On other cars, I've looked for clues but in every other case, nothing was there to assure me that I was getting the wires in the right place. So, I just decided not to add the wires, but I will do some detail painting on the kit's distributor, and that suffices for me.
  10. You've actually gotten CA on the windows - not just a fog from using CA near it? If so, your only recourse is to start sanding it off. Once you've gotten below the CA, start using progressively finer grits until you can polish the plastic with Novus #2 or Tamiya Polishing Compound (start with coarse - then fine - then finish). At this point, you should have no scratches and the surface should be clear. If your problem is fog, use a Q-Tip dipped in alcohol (learned this from Snake). It should clean right off.
  11. I know it's pretty old, but I was just curious to hear if the Prestige series was any better than a normally boxed AMT kits? (other than including a free pen stand)
  12. Galaxie Limited has always used a Korean tooling source, but I would imagine a large portion of the 15 year delay in getting the Coupe version out is the same reason that Accurate Miniatures went bankrupt, AMT & MPC have had three owners, and Revell/Monogram has had at least two. The falling off the face of the earth of the hobby - brought on by Wal*Mart demanding a set price point, the closing of other mass retailers (anyone remember Hills or Ames, or Woolworths, or even G.C. Murphy? just to name a few East Coast ones), the death of Children's Palace which used to have a massive model aisle, the over all economy, etc, etc, et al. Through the Dark Ages between 1999 and 2008 the only company that never changed hands or went under was Galaxie Limited making their way one Aerosedan, Sedan Delivery, Dragster, and Race Car Hauler at a time. It was just recently as the "everything that's old is new again" nostalgia gripped the hobby that Galaxie Limited kits suddenly had a resurgence in popularity and were stocked back into a lot of Hobby Shops. About a year ago, I bought one of the last Aerosedans Gary had in the warehouse, it didn't even come in a box art box because those had all run out. The biggest actual reason for the current delay once Gary decided to move ahead with the Coupe was the goof up with the tooling that required scrapping the original attempt, and creating a whole new tool for the body based on the rework of the original test shot. The West Coast Port "Strike" was over before it even thawed out enough to start running the machinery again in Korea. Very interesting and thanks for the info!
  13. Maybe that's because it's no longer called Future... Now, it's Pledge Floor Care Finish!? I tried one of those substitutes from the Dollar Store... very poor for our use - the stuff dried without any shine at all!
  14. Well, that sure explains it! Thanks for the info! One more question... I thought most of the industry was using China for styrene production? By going with Korea, could GL have inadvertently shot themselves in the foot?
  15. I'm currently using Transparent Black as a wash for things like grilles, etc. I have a few other Wicked and Auto-Air colors that I use for hand-brushing. I have never thought of using Future as a thinner for airbrushing, though. Gonna have to give that a try!
  16. OK - now I understand that it is the coupe instead of the fastback. I think that gives me a reason to buy one! Thanks for that! I still wonder though, if there if such a difference between the two that it should cause such a long period of development?
  17. No offense intended: I built the 1948 version of Galaxie Ltd's Chevy, and now (after a long time) they are releasing the 1947... It doesn't look all that different to me, and other than getting a "woody", which I'm not particularly interested in, what is there to make me want to buy one of these new kits? (Aren't the bumpers the same, since GL already included 3 versions? Why did it take so long to bring out what must have been a virtual update of an already-existing kit?)
  18. Brake fluid takes quite a while too. I haven't used it in years myself because it's kind of messy & I don't want to have to worry about disposing of it afterwards, but I never really seamed to have much luck with it myself. Probably didn't let things soak long enough. Steve, my test hood - overnight soak in Dot 3 Brake Fluid - looked like nothing happened... Took the hood out of the liquid and the paint was so soft, all it needed was a thumb-rubbing and a rinse and it's good-as-new! With the cost substantially higher than Super Clean and the problems you've stated of disposal, I can't see that I'll be using it that extensively, but it is nice to know how it works... and that it actually does work! Art, just wanted to let you know that your tip worked! An overnight soak softened the paint so that with a little rubbing came right off to the bare plastic! Thanks for the tip!
  19. I took my model and container of Super Clean out to the garage, and in about the same time as the inside test, I was already seeing much more "removal" going on! Thanks for the "heat" tip, guys! Oh, and I have the hood to this car in a container with some Mag1 Dot 3 Brake Fluid... several hours have already gone by, and not much going on...
  20. Hey, at least you can see the Roadrunner!
  21. Tip-dry is a common problem with airbrushing, and it gets worse with the manufacturer push for smaller and smaller needle/nozzles (which give better detail, but does not help hobbyists who want only good coverage). In your case , it could imply that your paint is thinned too much so that it dries super-fast, and if it happens when you're no longer spraying, the tip will collect and dry the paint so that you now have a plugged nozzle. It could also imply that you are using a very "hot" thinner - one that dries the paint faster than a recommended thinner. You might consider one of the synthetic lubricants that are applied to a cleaned needle. Make sure you use the one recommended by the airbrush manufacturer, and wipe the excess off before reinserting the needle. Regdab (Badger spelled backwards) is (obviously) for Badger airbrushes. Super-Lube is for Iwata. Airbrush Lube is for Paasche.
  22. Ditto the other comments, and the bumper guards really do look good - a nice offset to the solid yellow.
  23. JB... I read on eBay that the decals are printed on sheets, meaning that you have to be careful cutting them out to avoid having too much clear carrier... Is that a problem, especially with the wild designs you have in your photos?
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