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Everything posted by fseva

  1. You didn't read all of my comment, Ace... I said that there are no solids... that are there for making a factory-planned texture!
  2. No, this is not the way custom lacquers work. You should identify and fix before clearing. Is it possible that you sprayed in one area too long? Or perhaps got premature drying by being too far away? Either way, you will want to get it off before continuing!
  3. Mike, there are no "solids" in custom lacquer that could give a factory-planned texture to the paint. I suspect that you may have applied too much paint and perhaps got some "orange peel" in the finish. If so, sand it out and try again. Any additional thoughts about this will be based on your explanation of the "texture" you're seeing...
  4. Actually, the teflon tape is just a way for them to save money. The better equipment that comes with hoses will have a rubber seal inside the connector that prevents air leaks. You could give Paasche a call and perhaps they'll volunteer to send you a new hose. I use "quick disconnects" on my setup, and I can go from my Iwatas to my Badgers with them. Just make sure you order the quick disconnect for your hardware. Disconnecting your airbrush may not prevent a loss of air pressure from your tank. Again, it comes down to how well the hardware is equipped. You could leave Iwatas connected to the compressor and you would not lose an ounce of air when you call it quits!
  5. Yes - I'd like you to change your mind on "enamels", because you may not like the stink... lacquers smell much less offensive, and you can thin them with impunity and you'll still get great coverage.
  6. I will use BMF if the marker is well defined, and then use Tamiya Clear Red and Orange - I dab in the material with a microbrush; wait until dry, and dab again to build it up so that it looks like a lens. Testors clears do not work as well.
  7. If I ever do the Victoria again, I want it to turn out just as good as yours! You will be my inspiration!
  8. Yes, craft acrylics were not created for use on non-porous surfaces. You would have better results with a water-based paint that was created with plastics in mind, such as Auto-Air and Aztek Airbrushables. You might find that you'll get a nice satin finish that needs no protective topcoat.
  9. First of all, please identify the acrylics you're using... Are they craft products, or modern acrylic enamels or lacquers?
  10. That's pretty much what I intended to do with the interior, as I have all of those parts in my extra kit.
  11. Don't forget that this plastic probably had wood grain engraved in it. Makes it much easier if all you have to do is color it!
  12. Wow - you did a great job on it! Did you stretch the frame?
  13. Well, you kinda lost me with the nautical term! But is the position of the front tires correct? It looks too far back. On my model, both sets of tires seemed to be off-center! This was something I had hoped to correct, as well as the small tires, that required a huge spacer behind them!
  14. Nope-was so mad about it that I tossed it, knowing that I would have a second try. You see, this was perhaps the only time I intended to build the stock model and the custom. So I had both kits in my stash.
  15. Is Tamiya Lacquer Thinner really so much different from the stuff I buy at Farm & Fleet?
  16. Yeah, I was sure that was the case, but it was threatening to overwhelm the thread. So, I figured I'd better say something. It was kind of neat seeing the "HOT" flag on the front page, though!
  17. That would be great if I had the extra body, but it was used to replace the one I screwed up!
  18. Hey guys... How did we get on the topic of resin, anyway?! I do not intend to use any resin components in this project. Heck, if I was considering resin, I would be looking for a complete kit-not just some parts.
  19. My biggest concern right now is coming up with the underbody. The frame of the C300 looks great, but the front fender wells are considered part of the body in modern tooled kits, on the AMT Imperial, they are part of the old one-piece chassis. I doubt whether I'm capable of such fabrication of the front fender wells.
  20. I have used F560, and it's simply a white glue that turns clear when dry. However, it's not much of a "filler". I would suggest epoxy to fill the gaps...
  21. I actually had a C300 chassis left over from another project. I noticed the difference, and now I'm wondering if I can handle such a big project and have it turn out successfully... Well, the body is soaking in Super Clean. So, it'll be a while before I can start up; maybe in the meantime, I'll convince myself that it can be done... by me!
  22. Just a thought about shooting models... If you don't have the room for a tripod, like me, get a camera that has a movable monitor. The kind that sits flat against the unit when not in use, but can rotate away, tilt, etc. This way, you don't have to place your face right up against the viewfinder in very awkward positions!
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