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Everything posted by fseva

  1. Well, I finally figured out what I was doing wrong - I remember having straightened up the dashboard, thinking that it should lay flat at the top, but that just made the front edge that much closer to the glass! Instead on my second build, I followed the exact positioning required by the dashboard support below, and this then made the front of the dash angled down slightly, and that's all it needed to get the assembly perfect!
  2. That looks great! I tried Alclad Steel once, but it almost turned out black! Haven't used it since, but I do love their Polished Aluminum! Can't imagine what went wrong with the steel...
  3. First of all, is the air cleaner chromed? If so, I would add to the other comments that you should carefully remove the clear border decal around the design. No matter what I do, it still shows on a chromed surface and makes it appear less like it's been painted on. BTW, MicroSolv may be "stronger"... but it sure could be a lot stronger for me - I'm curently working on eliminating folds in my Baldwin Motion Camaro's hood decals! It's been a couple of days already and they're still very noticeable!
  4. That answers my question, thanks Tim!
  5. I agree that mold lines and ejector pin marks are part of the experience, but the flash... now perhaps it isn't really flash that I'm referring to... Have you seen the R2 Chevelle Convertible? The windshield surround is so bad, you can't tell where to cut the sprue off. Maybe that's simply "wear" on the tool, but it's the kind of thing I want to try to avoid. And to me, that kind of wear speaks to a tool that needed to be scrapped. What do you think?
  6. You mean that you use the tape as a guide line for the BMF? I never thought of that!
  7. I have to say that the price does sound very reasonable! Who do you use?
  8. Have you ever tried Silly Putty in these tough-to-mask areas? I have also used removable poster putty. I would surely have problems even with the best tape.
  9. Wouldn't that imply that the tool is in need of . . . "retirement"? And that's exactly what I want to avoid - getting a kit that has flash that's so bad, you can't tell where to cut the parts from the sprues! (can you say R2 Chevelle Convertible)
  10. I don't remember the Smoothster being a "van" . . . as in delivery???
  11. Yeah, the problem is this photo - it shows 1/25! Are you saying that the Vantastic kit is the one you're looking at?
  12. On the AMT 1970 Baldwin Motion Camaro, you may be aware that there are no chromed headlight parts. The headlights are simply molded into the body, and the hobbyist is left with the awful task of getting them to look right. I tried adding BMF, but that was a disaster - no matter what I did, I got a headlight full of crushed foil. And how to foil that surround? That would be disaster number 2 for me! I know some people could do it... actually, the guy who did the box model, for one... Another problem is the plastic surrounding the headlights is not all that well defined, and it's without an even exposure all around the headlights. How would you correct both problems (without BMF)? Maybe it would be possible to use the existing space for some parts-box headlights. How would you go about this kind of upgrade? I won't attempt it without a good plan in mind - something I know I'm capable of pulling off...
  13. You could also be referring to "sink marks". These are the type that you find in just about every AMT kit on the interior floor, and they're a real pain, given that you might not want to lose the nice engraving that's already there (depicts carpet). My question to you is, "Is this car being built for competition, or do you intend it to be accessible to visitors who will be allowed to handle the model?" If your answer to no to both questions, my motto is... if you can't see it, don't do it! This may upset some diehards out there, but hey, they'll never see it... so, why should I take the extra time on it?!
  14. Well, we must be on the same wavelength then... yours look equal to mine... except perhaps the headers and the pipes... I think I would have gone for a more complete look with less black showing.
  15. Couple questions: Seems to be some confusion as to the scale - is it 1/24 or 1/25? What is it like inside - clean or lots of flash? Anything else you can think of . . .
  16. Still haven't heard about the condition of the tool they are using in this release - would it produce a clean kit without a lot of extra work?
  17. Thanks for the info! I'll give it a try next tough decal job!
  18. Would anyone here happen to know something about the origins of this kit, and the state of the tooling that was employed for this kit?
  19. I've never used a hair dryer... Care to tell me how you used it? (I could certainly have used another technique beyond my Micro-Solv only solution)...
  20. OK - it's either an acrylic lacquer or acrylic enamel reducer... right?
  21. Yes, especially if it does not use one of the newer teflon needle bearings, which are impervious to just about anything you can throw at them...
  22. And they both look excellent... uh, the mirrors... and the cars! I'm wondering though, if you have noticed a tendency of Alclad to lose its shine after handling? Any way to get around that problem? With me, it'd be enough handling to install the part, and in a few days, it'd look like silver paint.
  23. OK - I can see how that would work... I take it you're recommending using a high gloss black to match the high gloss of the clear?
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