Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

fseva

Members
  • Content Count

    1,547
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by fseva

  1. You used an "acrylic" reducer instead of a lacquer?
  2. Well, thanks for the reply, but instead of asking if I could, I was asking what was the best way to proceed...
  3. It has been my experience that you really lose a lot of shine if you attempt to "build up a good base"... I've found that you need to know when enough is enough... and stop right then and there. If you go beyond, you tend to have the "chrome" turn into silver paint.
  4. It looks like everything else but the very end is out of alignment... when this happens to me, I treat the small extension as a piece of flash and sand it even with the other side. Haven't noticed any other problems related to it, but then again, I haven't really been looking for them...
  5. If I did this kit again, I would really like to extend the side-stripe over the wheel well and completely cover the rear quarter panels and the rear panel with black, like I've seen in some of the other wonderful builds here... What Black would match up best with the decals? Or should I do the decals and painting before assembly and cover it all with clear? Would the decals and the paint then look pretty much the same? Or is this something only a paint job would look right... as in paint only - no decals? Oh, and one other thing - has anyone added actual chrome headlights to the unpainted ones molded into the body? If so, can you explain what you did and identify the parts you used? Thanks!
  6. What they said!!! Did you have any trouble laying down the front band decal? Also, it looks like your scripts got special treatment - are they photo-etch?
  7. It's a beautiful model! I was wondering if you had any trouble with the front band decal... Mine just seemed to have been drawn wrong - I couldn't get it to lay down evenly (the way yours is)...
  8. I guess I should have been more specific - the red or orange of the engine compartment.
  9. I just wanted to add to all of the other comments about photographing the color Red - if you use a lot of compression to keep the file size down, it will make your Reds look horrible. When I want to have excellent looking enlargements of a red subject, I will instead reduce the size of the photo instead of increasing the compression. At no more than 10% compression, your reds will look accurate/gorgeous. Hope this helps...
  10. The Auto-Borne colors use some solvent so that they flow better - I find they make nice paints for interiors because they generally turn out flat or satin. I have tried airbrushing Wicked colors, but the concept of reducing with a specific amount of reducer is so foreign to me, I stopped trying. I have no problem reducing my lacquers with just about any amount of thinner I want... in fact, it seems the thinner a lacquer is, the farther it goes. However, that doesn't apply to all lacquers. Alclad Polished Aluminum is very thin, but does not go very far. So, it may actually be thinned too much so that the company makes a better profit.
  11. If I was that concerned about replicating prototypes - I just like what I like, whether it's accurate or not. After all, that's what "customizing" is all about! Right?
  12. OK - I see now; yes, the instructions did say Chevy Engine Red, and if you notice the early photos do show that it was that color. I never even thought that they might not be interchangeable.
  13. Here is a cool way to finish off those headlights... Thoroughly mix a tiny bit of white with your clear and apply. Allow to fully dry and cure. Should give the impression of a piece of clear glass over that metal.
  14. Huh? I'm building the kit as a '69... what made you think otherwise? Oh... I see... I used the word "reworked", but in this case it only means that while I'm in the process of painting and finishing a new body, I decided to make a new engine, to go with the chassis I had already finished. Does that sound more logical?
  15. Actually, believe it or not, my Crescendo has a 1.5mm - I bought it specifically for airbrushing Auto Air, which is very thick and I'm no good at reducing it.
  16. Here are some photos of the reworked areas of this car: engine (rebuilt), new connection to headers, new rear suspension. The underside is all metalizers. Engine color changed to GM Engine Blue. Transmission is Vallejo Silver hand-brushed after installation (very poor durability during handling).
  17. I had to put this project on hold - broke the driver's side A pillar during assembly. I had no success in repairing it, and I've got my replacement now. The body is painted - waiting for glass.
  18. Well, I had heard that Modelhaus had done some chroming but I never thought they'd look so professional! They must have had quite a few bumpers, etc., chromed at the same time, to make it cost-effective (like you), which is surprising because of their policy to make parts upon receiving an order, and consequently, they have no inventory and it takes forever to get a part. I tried ordering something from them once, but it was already 6 weeks and still no order. So, I had to cancel... I had lost interest in the project by then... Do you know when the original AMT kit was manufactured? I wonder how difficult it would be to find an unbuilt Bonneville...
  19. That is gorgeous! I wasn't here prior to 2 weeks ago, so would you mind telling me if this is a resin body, a resin kit, or an injection molded plastic kit (although I'm pretty sure nobody had made one)? Also, are those Modelhaus bumpers? If so, you have a real talent for chroming - that's some of the best homemade chrome I've seen! What's your secret?
  20. I agree - that really looks nice! I wouldn't change a thing; even the tinting!
  21. Anthem has a needle/nozzle .75mm; the 150 might have a 1.5mm, which is what I have in my Crescendo. The larger the n/n, the easier it is to clean up and to spray thicker paints.
  22. That makes more sense, because they usually want a flat finish, which is (I'm pretty sure) what you will get with Delta Ceramcoat.
  23. From what I understand, the airbrush determines the highest amount of pressure it will take, and that is usually around 20-30 pounds. You would only need 15-20 for most projects. Once you reach the upper end of the compressor's output, you still are only going to get what the airbrush will take.
  24. Here is the info I promised... the photo shows my Patriot on the left and my Revolution on the right...
×
×
  • Create New...