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Sidney Schwartz

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About Sidney Schwartz

  • Rank
    MCM Friend

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  • Scale I Build
    1/24 1/25

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  • Location
    Beaverton, Oregon
  • Full Name
    Sidney Schwartz
  1. Thanks for the information and the inspiration. I'll have to get me one a' these.
  2. So that's where I parked my car. Awesome!
  3. I know nothing about these Snap kits other than having seen them for sale. I assumed they were for kids and not very well done. Looks like I was way wrong! I don't see any difference between the models posted here and the "real" models. So what is the difference?
  4. I have no idea if airbrushes limiting the air pressure you can use. Obviously they have a practical limit, but other than your comments I've not heard anything about a deliberate limit of 20psi. That actually seems kind of low...it's the minimum that Paasche recommends for the model I have. The maximum is "30 or more". The instructions for the Master airbrush helpfully (?) recommends 15-50psi. Out of curiosity I compared the .5mm needle/nozzle from the Master with the .45mm needle/nozzle from the Paasche (see pic). In the attached pic they are, left to right, Paasche needle, Master needle, Paasche nozzle, Master Nozzle. They look about the same to my old eyeballs, though the taper on the needles is quite different. Here's another opinion to throw into the mix. I believe this guy is spraying enamel... http://www.internetmodeler.com/scalemodels/painting/Airbrushing-201-Painting-Solid-Colors.php
  5. You didn't offend me and I didn't think you were being contentious. I was trying to head off any potential conflict and should have just kept my big mouth shut. My apologies. As for why this airbrush works so much better, I'm very ignorant about the mechanics of all this. I think the two types of airbrushes are actually similar in that in both the air is blown past the tip of the needle, and that draws out and atomizes the paint. The instructions for the Paasche say to use 40psi for heavier paints, but I've been using 25-30psi and it works fine. Maybe one of the more experienced folk here know why one brush works better than the other.
  6. This place is certainly full of "nuggets." This place is certainly loaded with nuggets. Lacquers are not out of the question. As long as the weather is suitable I can take a rattle can outside or into the garage. I've gotten some good results from rattle cans, as long as I'm careful not to overdo it. As you say, there are some awesome colors available.
  7. Oooh...doughnut! Since the needle types are different I'm not sure you can do a direct comparison. In any case, the Master came with .3mm, .5mm and .8mm needles/nozzles, and I was using the .8mm...the smaller ones worked poorly or not at all. The Paasche came with .45mm, .64mm and 1.06mm needles/nozzles. I started with the 1.06mm, assuming I'd need the largest one for the craft paint. Turns out the 1.06mm sprayed too much paint and the .45mm works better, so that's what I'm using now. The Paasche also seems capable of spraying the craft paints without even having to thin them, although I'm still thinning them a bit so they'll self level nicely. Acrylics are working for me and clean up is very easy...all I use is water. They are also much less stinky and toxic. If I were to use laquer I'd probably have to have a painting booth with a vent, and that's a hassle and expense I don't need. Some of us don't have money to spend on whatever we would like to have. Let's please remember this is just a hobby. I'm not trying to convince anyone to change their mind. A question was asked and I related what my experience has been. If you're happy, I'm happy.
  8. Let's talk. I'm just a novice, but I feel like I've already spent a few million hours learning to spray acrylic craft paints. You can see the one model I've completed so far here... http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=102013&hl=corvette That's craft paint with Future as a clear coat. Attached are some pics of the kit I'm working on now, and a spoon I did a test spray on. These are all craft paints. The body is a metallic craft paint. It looks pretty good and it's not even been clear coated or polished. The spoon is painted with a high gloss craft paint, and it sure is glossy, and that's just the first coat. What I've learned so far is: 1. Acrylic paints are all water based, but different brands are formulated differently and will spray differently. And yes, some colors will be thicker or thinner. 2. Metallics and Pearls are thicker and have little bits in them and can be more difficult to work with. 3. The airbrush you use makes the biggest difference. Up until just recently I'd been using a Master dual action airbrush. It seemed like a real struggle to get the paint properly thinned and the pressure adjusted to the point where I'd get a good coat of paint. I finally gave up and bought a Paasche series H "external mix" single action airbrush. I decided on that one because I'd seen some very accomplished painters using it in their Youtube videos. The difference is like night and day. The Paasche is a pleasure to use. It has no trouble spraying whatever I've tried so far, and the results are much better and more consistent. Hope this is helpful. Can you be more specific about the problems you're having?
  9. This outfit is a great resource for modelers. They have lots of tools and materials specific to wooden ship models. You're going to shave your own planks, right? http://www.micromark.com/
  10. I don't have a kit yet. I'm flexible on the year. I'm more concerned with getting a good kit that will look nice and doesn't have all sorts of problems. The '53 'vette I built was a Monogram, and I won't make that mistake again.
  11. I'm also a novice...working on my second kit. One thing I'm learning is that there isn't much that can't be fixed. Once you prime the engine any irregularities will show much clearly and you can fix them before painting. Putty is really handy to have on hand for dealing with damaged or ill fitting parts.
  12. You couldn't have picked a cooler car to start with. And stock rocks.
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