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CapSat 6

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Everything posted by CapSat 6

  1. Now normally, I would usually get a little hot on the back of my neck at a suggestion like this 😡…and think of other subjects that are more sorely needed 😁…but in this case, i think it would be really nice if we got an all-new, detailed and accurate ‘57 Nomad and ‘57 Sedan Delivery. Surely they could be done from the same tool? 🤔
  2. From what I understand, Round 2 should have this tool. They change it back and forth from a ‘70 (which was last issued pretty recently) to a ‘72. Also, Round 2 should still have the old MPC ‘72 Chevelle. That was last issued in the 80’s. They could make just a few changes to that one (add back stock wheels, and unblock the “mild and wild” parts) and get pretty close to it’s original annual form. I seem to remember there being some issues with one or the other bodies. Some inaccuracies. I’m not that familiar with either body myself. If I ran Round 2, I would try to find the MPC tool, massage the body if needed, and give it the retro release treatment. The MPC kit had some nice drag parts (roll bar, ladder bars, hi rise intake, multi-piece headers) that would be nice to have back. I agree that it seems that some sellers on eBay are absolutely out of their minds when it comes to some of the prices they’re asking for out of production, but somewhat common kits.
  3. Revell 77 Monte Carlo, snap kit. AMT 72 Chevelle MPC 1968 Dodge Coronet body- rear 1/2 Looking for one of each, any version. They don’t have to be mint, I can use good builder kits or clean restorable builts. I would need most of the Monte Carlo so that I can build a stock-ish Monte Carlo, and for the Chevelle, I would really just need a good, untwisted / unsanded body, stock interior, hood & rear bumper (I have a front bumper). I have kits to trade, lots of Mopars, but I also have some other American and Foreign kits to trade. The last one is a long shot. I have a body that’s damaged in the rear. If you have a body that has damage in the front, or bad pillars, etc, I could use that to repair the body I have. I just really need a clean tail panel / quarters / trunk area from an MPC ‘68 Dodge Coronet. Thanks!
  4. You have hope for a few of these. The MPC ‘67 Charger was put out just a few years ago. Same with the Pinto Wagon. The “Smokey” Dart was done as a special limited release about 20 years ago, so it looks like Round 2 can change some of that tool around and produce it either as the stock/ drag Dart or the Smokey kit. The rest of your list gets a little dicey. The Force 440 will probably never be coming back, as MPC changed the body and interior for that kit from a 2 door Monaco Sport to a 4 door nearly 40 year ago. The 2 door body and interior might be gone forever. You can still find buildable Force 440’s for not too much money sometimes. The Cop Out was a Monogram kit, and that one has been rereleased numerous times. The 70’s Dodge Pickups are questionable. It depends upon whether or not they still have the 4x4 parts. The Warlock is basically a 4x4 Lil Red with bed rails, while the 4x4 pickup could be done if they can find the long bed 4x4 parts (which really might have become shortbed parts, if they were modified for the Warlock release in around 1978). I think Round 2 should look at reproducing the Dodge long bed 4x4 parts and Warlock wagon wheels, use the old Desert Dog Formula tires, tool up a new roll bar, and release a long bed Macho Wagon. They could do a retro box in the style of the old Warlock, Road Runner Super Pak and Firebird Blackbird boxes from ‘78 (with factory photos and illustrations) and offer that “missing link”. That would be a super cool offering that I think would sell very well. The last 2nd gen Camaro tool they have left is the MPC kit from about 1981. From what I remember, that one was a bit of a hot mess (big block engine left over from the early 70’s releases, bumpers and flares that don’t fit too well). Still, the originals finally seem to be drying up, so that could be worth a shot. One of the ‘72 Chevelles could be nice, but from what I remember of that one, the grille was butchered. They would have to tool up a decent grille for it, otherwise, it would be neat to see that one get the retro box/ expanded decals / new tires treatment.
  5. I’m in for a Bluesmobile Monaco kit! I would be fine with a curbside, as long as the body’s proportions were very good. Round 2 could work off of their 1/18 tool, as that one has the look of that car down, I would say it has the edge over Greenlight’s 1/24 diecast. Round 2 could perhaps tool the body so that different grille surrounds and grilles could be used, so that they could offer the later “Royal Monaco” (hidden headlight) front grille setup, as most of the Illinois State Police squads chasing the Bluesmobile in the movie used that front end. I believe all Monacos made after 1975 used that hidden headlight front end. Also, Plymouth front end styling could be tooled up, so that Plymouths could be offered. My Dad drove a ‘76 Plymouth ex-Philadelphia service Gran Fury for several years, and he also briefly had an ex-highway patrol ‘76 Royal Monaco, so I would love to be able to build both of those cars. Those Dodges and Plymouths had the majority of the Police market share in the US in the ‘70’s. Many, many state and local agencies used those cars, so lots of State and local police cars, as well as TV and movie cars could be offered from one well designed tool.
  6. The slot wheels in the Salvino’s kits are much nicer than the ones in the Polar Lights kits. The Salvino’s kits come with 3 sets of wheels each- chromed slots, unchromed slots and unchromed steel Holman Moody wheels, so- lots of extra parts in those Salvino’s kits!!!
  7. The Salvinos kit is much stronger than the Polar Lights kits mostly in the body. The PL bodies are almost cartoonish. Elements of the PL Chassis are better than the Salvinos, as the Salvino’s kits use more of a generic chassis. Both chassis have unusually large transmission tunnels. I’d give the Salvino’s kit the nod in the engine department. It’s a generic block for which you use either Hemi or wedge heads, depending on the year you’re building, but I think overall it presents a bit better than the Polar Lights kit. If I were to buy just one of these to build, it would be a Salvino’s, hands down. Myself, I’m trying to bash a Salvino’s body with a PL chassis and a AMT ‘68 Road Runner engine block, heads and transmission, but then again, I had all of these parts to start with. I’m still stuck on fixing that transmission tunnel. The Salvino’s body is much better to my eyes. I do like the PL chassis a little better than the Salvino’s, as it looks more “Mopar” under there.
  8. I don’t want to hijack this thread too much… 1) I’m in for a Larson Vega. I like the looks of the ‘75 much better than the older one. There, I said it! :) 2) a Pro Stock Cuda would be great, but man- that tool needs some work first. It was never that great to begin with. At a minimum, the body needs to be improved. It was last offered as a Snap Fast Plus kit (no under hood detail), which wasn’t such a loss. The under hood area was that kit’s greatest weakness, closely followed by the chassis. Those areas of the kit weren’t even all that great when the original annual kit came out in ‘70. I think a rework of the body, and a return to the “Hemi Cuda” configuration would be best- that was a fun kit to build with all of the optional parts in the box, at least. If they could find the gasser style front suspension clip & the ‘Missile hood, throw in some enhanced decals and tinted windows, all the better. I always found it useful to throw a Jo Han ‘71 Cuda under the MPC kit when doing a Pro Stock. It’s a shame the Jo Han ‘Cuda mold can’t be found and combined with the MPC stuff!
  9. I read somewhere that Volvo created a concept car about 15 years ago which was an electric/ turbine hybrid. It had a small turbine unit that you could drop almost anything combustible into that could recharge the battery if needed. It got a chilly reception in the US because it was not zero emissions. What killed turbines for Chrysler was that while they could run on pretty much anything, and they had fewer moving parts, they could never get decent gas mileage out of turbines, especially as mileage became more important as the ‘70’s wore on. If a turbine is there more or less as a backup for the electric power plant, then fuel efficiency becomes much less of a problem. Until the range problems are minimized, like many have stated in this thread, people in the US will be leery about electric cars. At least the hybrid arrangement, even with a turbine allows better range and capability until infrastructure and/or range catch up.
  10. Maybe you can try here, message the creator, I think he posts on this forum. Looks like old Y Block speed parts are right up one of his alleys… https://www.shapeways.com/shops/maple-leaf-modelworks?section=1%2F25+Hot+Rod+Parts&sort=&page%5Bnumber%5D=2&page%5Blimit%5D=48&page%5Border%5D=asc
  11. What exactly are you looking for? There isn’t much in 1/16 by way of aftermarket parts. You’re almost better off looking at swaps and online auctions for other 1/16 kits. The Revell 33/34 Ford Street Rods have some nice bits in them that you might use…sometimes you find builts or parts lots of these kits that could be useful. Lately on eBay, the old AMT ‘55/‘57 Chevies, ‘64 Mustangs and MPC Cobras have been showing up as builts and parts lots. Competition Resins or Ted’s Modeling Marketplace sell some 1/16 things…they’re more drag oriented, but you might find some things there. If you want to customize it with more modern stuff, it gets even tougher. You could try looking on Shapeways, several creators there have some 1/16 parts.
  12. You might be able to make something out of thin cloth, cardboard or colored paper. I would think plastic would be too hard to work with and wouldn't look realistic. Cloth would have to be very thin to start, and I can't imagine you could actually stitch something like that in 1/25 scale. You would have to glue it. Or maybe look in the toy aisle at Target or Wal Mart? You'd be surprised what you might find sometimes.
  13. I'll pitch this one just one more time: I think Round 2 should tool up a Hellcat engine with a miniature Hellcrate box (and the appropriate items that come with it: wheels, tires, tools etc.), and offer it in their Garage Accessories Series. They could do a Mopar themed offering that includes two complete engines that could be used either for dioramas or for customizing cars. Throw a few other bits in the box, offer at the same retail price as their other garage accessory sets, and I'm sure they will have a seller on their hands. For that matter, they could also do some GM and Ford themed crate engine accessory packs. With two engines in each box, with one wheel and tire set and some extras such as hood scoops, decals, posters and tools, I think there would be a lot of interest in something like this. Round 2: you're welcome.
  14. The MPC Chevette annuals had a canopy that you could probably add to to make a tent. Looks like it came with some other things you might find useful, too...
  15. I gotta say- the artwork for this Daytona is spectacular. That’s a beautiful, dynamic rendering. If they ever sell a print of this, I will have to get one. The first Daytona I ever saw up close was at an indoor car show in Philly (I’m not sure if it was an ISCA show, or???). There were lots of custom cars there. One guy had a Daytona- orange with the black stripe and wing, just like the car on the stamp/ tin art. His was mostly stock, with 80’s Cragar wheels on it 🤢. That car still really made an impression on me.
  16. The Hatboro PA store on Blair Mill Road had several Gremilns as of yesterday. They seemed to be running low on the Hurst Olds, but had everything else.
  17. Like said above, the MPC '68 & '69 Coronet Hardtops and the '70 Challenger had the trailer. The Annual MPC Chargers never came with the trailer. I think the '70 Challenger was the last kit to come with the trailer. I think the axle for it migrated to the MPC '71 Cuda (to be used as a straight axle). I don't think the MPC trailer ever came with dedicated tires and wheels for it. I think the builder always had to use either spare mags or spare stock wheels (whichever was left over from their car build) to complete the trailer. I think that also meant that the builder had to either use slicks to complete the trailer, or put the slicks on their car and use stock tires to complete the trailer. 😲 From what I have seen, the MPC Trailer looked more squared off, more modern, and to me, more prototypically like a late 60's U-Haul trailer than the AMT trailer did. The MPC trailer would be great for Round 2 to find. I think the decals in the Coronet kits (at least the '68's) had decals for the trailer that looked like U Haul logos, but said "U-Haul-It" instead.
  18. I went to my local Ollie's on Tuesday, they only had a few Lindberg military kits, leftovers from last time. I went again on Thursday. They had what has been shown in the thread so far: '69 Hurst Olds, '69 GTX, '69 Chevelle convertible, '69 Charger Daytona, Chrysler 300, Gremlin, '97 Mustang, new Camaro, Scirocco, the Pumper, Diamond Reo, '57 Ford, '72 GTO, '49 Mercury, a Peterbuilt, etc. I think this is exactly the same stuff they got the last time around several months ago. I'm hoping they get some new stuff from Revell. A few years ago, they got some nice stuff in and I regret not having picked up more then. One guy had one of those Wacky Willy's in his hands at checkout And- it begins. I have seen a flood of some of these kits on eBay, some with the price tags still on and the prices blacked out, or others with pieces of the price tags. A few sellers start them at $10 each, but most are listing them at $20-$30 each. These seem to sit around if they're overpriced. The GTX and Hurst Olds are excellent parts cars. The GTX comes with both a nice stock Hemi and 440 with 4 barrel and 6 barrel intakes. While the body is a little wonky, the chassis makes an excellent upgrade for almost any '68-'70 B Body kit. The Hurst Olds comes with an excellent chassis you can throw under almost any '68-'72 GM A-Body, and pad printed Goodyear Polyglas GT Tires.
  19. It’s a pretty nice kit to start with. I have a few, but I was actually hoping for a “Coke” release like they did with the Ford Van, with Coke decals and a Coke machine. I have nothing against Turtle Wax, it’s just not an inspiring brand to me.
  20. I hope my personal experience with these cars helps. The 2.6 engine was an entirely different engine- built by Mitsubishi. I know that with ours, the carb was junk, even after just a few years, and the engine was said to have other problems. Our ‘82 ran terribly at 50,000 miles. I really hated that car. The 2.2/ 2.5 were developed by Chrysler. I think the 2.5 was balance shaft engine only, which helps with 4 cylinders, as they are not inherently balanced. People still make the 2.2’s work, but I think the 2.5 is a relatively easy engine to live with. I distinctly remember the 2.5 felt much more powerful than the 2.6...it started and ran without any problem, was very derivable, and was much faster. That car would cruise at 75 mph all day. The Speedo only went to 85 (like most cars did back then, speed limits were pretty much 55 mph across the U.S. in the 1980’s, and 80 mph would get you a fat ticket almost everywhere back then), but you could pretty much get it to 80 and keep it there. The 2.6 was terrible. I also remember the ‘86 had much better road feel. I think at some point between ‘82 and ‘86, they changed power steering pumps on those cars. The ‘82 felt like a ‘70’s car, way over-assisted, while the ‘86 felt much more modern. I think the 2.2/2.5 eventually became the Neon engine. I’m not an expert on these engines, but I can attest to how they drove back in the day, and that they’re fairly easy to work on. A good friend of mine bought a brand new 1992 Dodge Daytona. He test drove two of them: a V6 and a 2.5. He bought the 2.5 because in his mind, they performed about the same and the expense and weight of the V6 (I think built by Mitsubishi) could not be justified. I drove it once or twice, and it reminded me a lot of our ‘86 600 with the 2.5. The Daytona looked very similar to the ‘600 under the hood, and both cars even used the same steel wheels. His Daytona was a dependable driver that we tried to get stuck in snow, but couldn’t ;). He stopped driving it for about a year as he used his work truck all the time. After a year of sitting, he started driving it again and then the transmission gave out. It only had about 40,000 miles on it then. If you find one that has been sitting, or hasn’t been driven much, change the Auto trans fluid and filter before you drive it. DON’T have the ATF pumped out, do it old school and just drain it. Every car I have had ATF pumped out of have dropped their transmissions soon after, so I will NEVER have a shop pump a transmission again. Coincidence? I think not...
  21. Regarding models, I think there might be 1/43 pre builts of the earlier ones available. If you wanted to do something in 1/24 or 1/25, the MPC or Monogram Dodge Daytonas more or less had the same engine (although turbocharged) and chassis, but you would be on your own as far as a body and interior go.
  22. I would say go with your passion then.! I think the fuel injected 2.5 cars were the best...I think the 2.5 engine had balance shafts while the 2.2 did not...they were based on the same design (some parts interchanged between the 2.2 and the 2.5) but the balance shafts made the 2.5 more smooth, which ultimately might have helped durability, too. The F.I. 2.5 had decent power for the time, even without a turbo. Save up, plan like a supervillain. Get a good one. My mistake was that I would settle for the first car I found as soon as I had some cash, so I usually had to deal with nightmare rust and mechanical problems. Not being patient with your search will only lead you to heartbreak. Allpar.com should have some good info on these cars. You can do some research there. The merits of these cars were: 1) easy to work on, 2) handled VERY well in bad weather (Philadelphia sometimes got a lot of snow and ice- and we lived in a hilly part of town. Those cars NEVER got stuck in bad weather unless there was an unplowed foot or more of snow!), 3) the 2.5 proved to be very dependable, it never once let us down. 4) these were very roomy cars for their size. I have heard some bad things about the transmissions in these cars. One that has been sitting for awhile might give you some trouble in that regard.
  23. Sorry to hear that you have to let Shiela go. I had a car in college that I loved, that I had to give up, and that 30 years later, I still think about. Save some dough, BE PATIENT, fine a NICE one, and do it again if you like. These cars are out there, some in really nice shape for as old as they are, and aren’t very expensive, but remember that for every extra dollar you spend on a nice one, that’s like saving two down the line. My family had two of these new. We had an ‘84 400 sedan and an ‘86 600 coupe. Stay away from the pre-fuel injection cars, as the carburetors were tough to live with. Our ‘84 had the Mitsubishi built 2.6, and it had a lot of driveability problems starting at 50,000 miles. Our ‘86 had the 2.5 engine, which was fuel injected (so it ran MUCH better for us than the 2.6, and was a much better performer overall) and while almost everything else on that car aged poorly (door handles, door hinges- which were welded and therefore unrepairable, even the buttons on the radio went bad), the engine never gave us any trouble at all in about 80,000 miles of regular use. We sold it to a family friend who was also fairly rough on it, and she drove it everywhere about another 40,000 miles before it gave up the ghost. The 90’s Mopars (Shadow/Sundance/Duster/Spirit/Le Baron/Acclaim) might be worth a look...I’m not sure these are any more expensive than the ‘80’s K cars, but I think they were much improved over the ‘80’s cars.
  24. Thank you for the offer, Dale. I think I have a deal in place to swap for the parts I need. I will definitely let you know if it looks like I need anything else for this kit. Thanks again!
  25. It’s gonna be a problem bring some of these back. Off the top of my head, here are some that I think the tooling has been altered beyond their original early ‘80’s forms: 3rd gen Camaro (this was updated annually through 1992). It would be a great one to bring back, but it would ultimately come back as a ‘92, and would no longer fit the design theme you’re going for. 6th Gen Mustang (updated to about 1988). Recently rereleased. Same as above re: the theme. 3rd Gen Firebird (updated to about 1992, but the Knight Rider version was recently rereleased, so perhaps there is more than one tool for these Firebirds?). Those are tricky, because they were Sooooo ‘80’s. It would be tough to do a series like this without some of them. I think there are excellent candidates based on the general interest there is in these cars and trucks, they would be good sellers with their original 80’s graphics: Toyota Celica Gen 2 / 1981 Camaro Ford Bronco Ford Van (although some digging / reconfiguring would be needed for some of the custom parts and/or 2wd/4wd variants). Funny Cars (Corvette, Firebird, Omni). Any Jeep CJ kits. I think the muscle cars would be best done with the retro treatment that most of the other muscle cars have already been getting. Some good examples of this are the ‘73 Mustang, ‘78 Dodge Pickup, and the ‘74 “GTX” Road Runner. They seem to be very popular sellers, and a TON of value was added with the new boxes, decals, and the corrected parts. The MPC ‘72 Chevelle, ‘74 Charger, ‘67 Corvette and ‘74 Cuda as examples could REALLY benefit from the same treatment (stock parts, ‘70’s retro boxes and stock graphics), but that does not mean that they would have to leave out the parts that were added in the ‘80’s. The ‘72 GTO was recently rereleased several times and still comes with everything, including the decals, needed for it’s 80’s form. For these cars, an ‘80’s side panel on the box could call the ‘80’s building versions and parts out, and optional dark tinted windows would be a plus. The Mako Shark, Hemi Hunter, and Pro Stock/ Gasser kits could also be done with appropriate ‘60’s or early ‘70’s retro boxes, but could still include an “80’s idea pack”- decals, instructions and a color printed card showing their ‘80’s alter egos.
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