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Everything posted by DoctorLarry

  1. Just Googled "Nascar Tire size". two references had the same 28/10-15 on a 15X9.5 or 10 wheel.
  2. I measured a set of T bird 1/25 tires. Height is about 26 mm, which would be two scale inches shorter than NASCAR spec. Width is about 14 mm, which would be (to Tim's point) 4 scale inches wider than spec. So shorter and wider appears to be the order of the day on 1/25. a 1/24 tire is actually pretty spot on. 28 mm tall and 12 mm wide. Still too wide but closer to scale spec height.
  3. NASCAR spec, from what I read is a 28/10-15 tire. So in scale it should (roughly) be about 28 mm in diameter by 10 mm wide so I guess I will check when I get home (that is 1/25 scale 1 inch = 25.4 mm). I guess in 1/24 it would be a little larger (1.167 vs 1.12 inch), which is about 29.6 mm.
  4. In looking at some pictures of older NASCAR cars, it looks like the tires are pretty large relative to the wheel openings. When I put the chassis under my Buick Century project, they look small relative to the 1-1 car. Do people prefer 1/24 or 1/25 tires? the 1/24 are larger and appear to be closer to the real thing. The tires in this picture look way larger to me than those in the model kits.
  5. Great detailing on this one, Tim.
  6. I got the floor pans out and tried to see how the "fix" truck arms would fit and I can't see how they would work with the floors. Maybe I just need a better look but it does not look like it just drops in. I will probably use a TBird rear and front suspension. The floors are totally wrong as well. Should be stock frame and partial floor pans, not a generic flat plate. I use a GM A body frame/floor (Cutlass or GTO) and cut the front frame off and cut the pans for a fuel cell and the truck arms.
  7. Experimented for awhile with paint and could not get it perfect without a custom mix, so I settled for Testor's Fiery Orange and Graphite Dust with gold striping. Tamiya TS-13 clear. Speedway Decals is working on the artwork for the decals now and they should be ready in a couple of weeks. It was hard to tell what the color was. In some photos it looked more orange and in some redder. I tried using Tamiya Clear Red over the orange and then it was too red so I sanded it down and started over. Tried yellow striping but it was way too bright. The real car is probably somewhere in there in between. Close but not perfect, but it laid out slick.
  8. My supplier of choice. I use fine beads and beading wire for small braided line and Detail Master and large beads for the radiator hoses. This stuff came from Hobby Lobby as well.
  9. What did you use for the braided lines and spark plug wires?
  10. Wiring and plumbing looks great. Nice build.
  11. The new Salvinos kits have been extensively dissected here an in other places. I have two Cutlasses waiting to be built.One of the weak areas is the chassis. Evidently it mimics the old MPC NASCAR chassis with a Chrysler type chassis with torsion bars in the front and leaf springs in the back, which is wrong on all sorts of fronts. I ordered the rear suspension "fix" which is a truck arm modification. As Dave Van (I think) noted, it is way off on scale, particularly the length of the arms. Has anyone actually built a kit using the replacement rear suspension? I am contemplating whether to 1) use the Salvino rear with a T Bird front clip grafted on or 2) scratch build the whole thing. Any thoughts? BTW, I will also modify the body because the tops of the body and lower body have no lines so they also need some help. Tim did some of that to his Busch Cutlass in his post.
  12. DoctorLarry


    Paint may have worn off as well. Here is a restored David Pearson Torino. Clearly white here.
  13. DoctorLarry


    Always wondered about that but they are not always done that way. Either black or rusty metal on Cale's Busch Cutlass.
  14. T Bird chassis or did you use the kit chassis?
  15. And it's a V-6! Six speed all wheel drive. This pretty much sums up Ken Block style.
  16. I match the tubing size to match the roll cage I use. I think this was 1/16" tubing. I have a whole box of evergreen and other plastic rods, sheets, tubes, square tubes, triangles, grids, etc. and I use them all.
  17. Ken Block Hoonigan drift Ford Truck: 914 horsepower twin turbo insanity.
  18. I found a rather interesting alternative to auto pinstriping tape. I found this by accident online. It is 1 mm tape made for striping fingernails! I got 15 rolls of different colors for about 5 bucks on EBAY after I bought some at Ulta Beauty. They recommend covering it with nail top coat so I bet you can clear over it.
  19. Based on the number of your builds, I would believe it! Now I just try to find the chassis separately since I don't use the bodies either.
  20. I've found the TBird kits on EBAY for as little as $5 and I have done the same thing-bought the chassis components in a bag. I have one coming this week, in fact!
  21. It is a lot more work!
  22. In reality, this car would likely have a stock frame and part of the floor with the "Ford Galaxie" front clip welded in. It would then have a truck arm rear suspension from Chevy trucks with a Ford 9 inch rear. Tim is right that the T Bird is a good replica. I used a GM intermediate rear and glued the T Bird front clip on. I cut the gas tank and part of the floor out and used the fuel cell from the TBird. I also modified the floor pan to use the T bird truck arm rear assembly. Lots more work but I wanted to build one like it was done. In these pictures of the 77 Busch Olds you can see the stock rear half of the frame and the stock floor pans.
  23. Body is ready for paint. I set the wheels in place and slipped the body over the chassis. I have to finish the chassis details and get the mounting points right but this is close to where the body will set. I think the back needs to be lowered. I also think the rear wheels need to be tucked in a bit. Thoughts? The hood will sit right when I raise the body mounts up a smidge.
  24. Chassis is about done and body has been final sanded. Still a couple of minor touch ups and it can be painted. I still need to put the exhaust and rear window filler panel on and it will be ready for paint. I also have to paint and mount the wheels and tires.
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