Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Goodwrench3

Members
  • Content Count

    698
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Goodwrench3

  • Rank
    MCM Ohana
  • Birthday 06/07/1964

Previous Fields

  • Are You Human?
    yes
  • Scale I Build
    1/25

Profile Information

  • Location
    Cottage Grove, WI
  • Full Name
    Jeff Fritsche

Recent Profile Visitors

3,601 profile views
  1. I've got one of those original kits in my "stash". "If you've got the time, we've got the beer ... Miller beer" 🙂
  2. Well I'm glad to see that they've finally got off the "Coke" binge 😉
  3. I'm gonna have to buy a whole new shelving unit to store the 3 cases of the IH 4070A kits that I'm gonna "stash" ... LOL. This is just too good to be true!
  4. Transtar 4070A !!! Yes !! Prayers do get answered ! 😉
  5. I had the same affliction .. " I kept thinking when my skills got better I would build them". Well, I've got decal sheets (binders of them) that I purchased 20 - 30 years ago. Once I let go of worrying if others would think they were "good builds" .. it got way easier. Mine are not contest-quality, not super detailed, and I really don't care anymore. I just enjoy walking by them in my family room on the shelf and thinking that they look way better on the shelf than in a box in the basement !
  6. Hi all: I'm building the Moebius Tim Flock 56 Chrysler kit and the paint colors in the instructions are all Testors (which are discontinued and some are getting hard to find already). The interior door panels and seats are called out to be "Testors Model Master Radome Tan" -- which is FS33613. It's supposed to be a "Natural leather" color. Well, I've come up empty trying to find it. Does anyone know of a close replacement ? Ideally a rattle can spray paint as I really don't want to have to brush paint large areas like the interior panels and seats. I think it's supposed to be something like the color of the seats in this picture. Thanks in advance.
  7. I'll tell ya. It's a game changer. Once you force yourself to do it in 30 days and no excuses, it gets you "over the hump". That feeling of satisfaction of putting a finished one up on the shelf is priceless.
  8. Thanks. I've built a couple that I didn't feel really needed to be messed with. Here is a Buick that I finished recently and a Dick Trickle Pontiac built long ago. I guess one could lower the Pontiac more if that's you're preference -- I felt it looked pretty good built box stock.
  9. How was the fit of the new flat nose piece on the body ?
  10. Just starting to build one of these. I've looked at photos of several builds of these kits. It looks like they might need a "stance" modification ? Unlike the '81 Monogram Buick kit, the photos I've seen of the built T-birds look like they might be "ridin' high" in the front ?
  11. Yeah it's pretty vague -- in looking at some of the build photos, I've seen that bar attached anywhere from at the floor of the chassis all the way up to the top side bar of the roll cage. So it's confused others too 😉
  12. I think I've watched all of the Walt Longmire series at least 5 or 6 times now. Every time I watch it I want a model of his Bronco ! Was that model of Ford Bronco ever made as a kit ?
  13. Yes, interesting. I think the reason I'm so concerned about wet sanding or smoothing the Tamiya primer coat (not that it appears rough) is that in the past I have seen some grainy finish in the color coat that I sprayed over the Tamiya fine gray primer. I just assumed it was because I didn't wet sand the primer coat, and that the color coat was showing that. I guess that's not always the case from what you describe, though.
  14. Thanks for taking the time to write those details. Much appreciated. I was curious if you were using the Comet just for detail, trim areas, etc. or on the entire model body (i.e. if you were wet sanding the large areas of the body and only using Comet in the "hard to get at" places). Thanks again.
×
×
  • Create New...