Somewhere near 80 finished here at the house. Like you jeff, I have others that were sold to collectors - right at 20, and a few that I have given away to friends and relatives.
About 500 kits in my stash.
Great question and comments .
Build what ya love - I always have.
The biggest mistake I've seen people make in this hobby, and in life in general, is to worry about what others think or say about them, or what they do. All that worry has a controlling power over our creativity, and limits our ability to be a free-thinker. You never really get to know what ya love or what your talents are, when your trying to please everyone - can't think oustde the box, or be happy with yourself.
I do what my "Artsy" passions inspire me to do. I get criticized and beat-up once in a while for my creations, or even my life style, but hey, I like 'um .
For me it's always artist first when I open the box . Yeah, I can do the mechanical stuff OK, but there's nothin' like free-form "Artsy" art deco flowing designs to really "Spin my bottle" .
Tamiya paints are wonderful, and I use them pretty regularly, but not their clear.
For than more than a dozen years I have used Plasti-Kote Classic Lacquer clear #349, over most any brand of paint, and have shot it at nearly 100 degrees with no problems.
Just remember to use the ol' reliable 3 step process in painting - One light coat, one medium coat, and a wet coat, shot at 15 minute intervals.
Also, final prep before painting is essential to a good smooth finish.
"Orange peal" is normally a result of a poor prepped surface, or paint being shot to "DRY" ( Not to high of a temp., but the nozzle too far from the object being painted), with too long of a drying period between coats. Paint needs to still be "Tacky" when it gets it's 2nd and third coats so the paint will stick and not run, and the various coats will "Blend" together, not "Stack-up" one over the other, because you waited too long between coats, and the paint is too dry to flow into the preceeding coat - " ORANGE PEAL (???)
A nicely painted project can be finished in 24 hours, including the "Rubbing out" process, when done properly.
Waiting too long at different stages of the painting process can be one of the biggest mistakes people make.
Find out how the "pro" 1 to 1 car painters do it, and you'll find a new world of successful painting.
Great start on an "Ol' Timey" kit .
It's a little "Spindly", but I found that if ya just take yer time, she'll be O.K. I'm buildin' a "Sorta" stock one from this kit, with bumpers, the stock rear wheel well openings, dog dish's and white walls, with a bit of a surprise under the hood.
Keep going. It'll be fun to see what you do with yours - dave .
A couple of suggestions.
The stock bodied look with a chopped top, great paint colors, and a full compliment of emblems and trim is getting more popular lately, and I love doing some of mine like that. Maybe a late-model driveline and interior too(Yours is probably a slammer??).
Dark colors seem to get lost on a contest table, but bright colors done well draw people in to see more. If that were my "Caddy", I'd get a large can (Only way it comes) of Duplicolor tangerine meataflake, and some clear coat for the body color, and then do the top in white. Spend some time doing a great job on foiling everything very cleanly, as well as doing a great interior maybe a two-tone in creme and beige, add "Caddy Sombrero's" from the Revell '49 Merc kit and use the Caddy decals that come in the kit for the centers of the Sombrero's(Little details make a modl really "POP"), with super-wide whites, slam it low, nose nearly touching the ground, and I guarantee you'll get compliments.
Here's my ol' standby I really like, and have another similar one going for the future.
I have a simple little system that's worked well for me for about a dozen years. In the first pic you see tooth pics, a set of micro-mini drill bits, a cordless Dremel with an accessory drill chuck for mini-drill bits, and a couple chunks of floral foam from Michaels Crafts, that I cut into smaller pieces.
I drill a small hole in a plastic part that is usually already been cleaned up and readied to be painted, and insert the tooth pick into the hole for handling while painting, and the rest of the time it's in the foam block, either waiting to be painted, or curing after painting.
For really tiny parts the tooth pics can be sanded down to a very tiny point and one of the smallest drill bits in the set can be used in the plastic part. I usually use a larger drill bit most of the time as it makes handling not so "tedious" or "Spindly" . The round tooth picks are tapered, so it makes for a nice tite fit, especially if the hole is drilled deep enough - DUHHH .
Or, if you can't drill a hole in the part, I cut off the end of a tooth pic to flatten it a little (depends on the size of the part), add some "Super-glue" - ZAP IT, for a quick set, stuff it into the block of foam, and your set for the next part, and everything is easily accessible, and can be nicly organized and arranged.
In this second pic, I have a stash of these blocks, because I may have 2, 3,4 or more projects going at one time, that I'm detailing parts for. A nice supply is always handy , and helps keep project parts separated and organized - I LIKE ORGANIZED .
And lastly here's a "Family pic" of a whole buncha parts - LOL
I like "SWOOPY" streamliner trains from the 20's and 30's, along with the "Art Deco" bicycles of the same time period, including the 40's.
Got one of each on the drawing board to be scratched-up, from pattern supplies.
The train will be a "Custom SCREAMLINER sort of "Lead-Sled" Hiawatha crazi-ness - Gotta find me some scale trucks (Wheel sets).
I agree with you guys about Duplicolor being a good choice for primer as well as their rattle-can paints. I don't use a sealer myself, but that's just a personal choice, as I like the system I use. I hear others have real good success with a sealer, so I guess it's like " Bill Geary" says - PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE" - and then experiment a little too. I use Duplicolors gray "High-build primer" to start off, and then if it's a bright color I'm laying down, I go with Plasticotes white primer. Sands beautifully. I've never gotten Duplicolors white primer to work for me. Seems to stay gummy, and never really dries to a sandable hardness.
I like to let my primer set a least a few days to a week to get it good and dry. Sands beautifully and feathers out to a nice finish before the color goes on, and shows any last-minute unseen flaws needing to be fixed.
Hi Gregg and Harry
I guess it's appropriate for me to comment.
I'm not angry at anyone here, about anything that has been said. When you get my age, your self worth is pretty well in tack, so comments like we read just roll off my back and make me laugh. HONESTLY, this sort of thing is nothing when you get older, because of all the "REAL WORLD" issues and people you have to deal with daily over many, many years, that make these issues here seem trivial at best, in the "Grander scheme of life". Bitterness and anger is a pill that cosumes you and poisons your whole life - NO THANKS - LIFE IS TO GOOD
Me, I'm OK with who I am, and what I've accomplished in my life, and enjoy the great memories I get to SAVOR in my advancing years.
Like I said, I'm happy and life for me is very good, and I really enjoy being here, and probably won't be going anywhere anytime soon, unless you ask me to leave, and I have no problem with that. I enjoy learning here from others, getting their feed-back and advise, and I enjoy sharing what I do, and helping others, and generally feeling like I have a positive affect on most here like so many others do, but if my presents here isn't welcome, or I seem to be too much of a "LIGHTENING ROD", then simply tell me, and I'll be gone by my own choice, just like before, only it'll be permanent. I won't come back. This is not my life, it's a hobby.