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E St. Kruiser50

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Everything posted by E St. Kruiser50

  1. EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEHAH GIDDDDY_UUUUP!!!
  2. Gotta luv ya George. Sorry, son, no headlights - LOL
  3. Hi everyone. I was drooling over Bill Stillwagon's GORGEOUS 40 Merc. The color, stance, and body work is unapproachable in quality and style. I didn't want to jump into his post with my photo's, but I thought it would be fun to drag this old build out, and post some photos of my skewed effort to building a taildragger, as what I did was so different from Bills, less traditional and a little bit "Rowdy" ( I love Rowdy ). Especially the wheels. Those darn things always seem to get me in trouble with people lately- LOL Oh well, fun is fun. I just can't help myself Anway Bill, I am a big fan of your builds and love the '40 Merc . The Treehugger
  4. Even now this has turned out to be one of the most enjoyable builds in quite awhile . At the very beginning of this project I had decided to stay pretty close to the original colors and the magnificent detail, on this beautiful rendition of the original car by Monogram. It's a beautiful old kit with amazingly crisp molded detail, and the fit and finish is nearly perfect I did add a chevy engine, that's mildly warmed over . The wheels were for me, a street rodder at heart and by nature, were a perfect "Elegant" choice, that's not far removed from the original wires. I wanted a classic, European, Art Nuvoe look. Almost pristinely stock, but with a bit of "ARTZY MUSCLE" Like something you'd see at a swank Concord De Elegance, but would turn heads, cause people to whisper, and maybe irratate the purists . I put a lot of time in detailing this build. I wanted to do both the the original car and this beautiful kit justice. I put many hours into detailing the top. From the multiple tapings for out-lining the stitching, to the application of the metal snaps. Taping the body for painting the body molding, took hours to carefully place the tape, and to lay it down properly. The car is nearly complete now. It still needs headlight's, door handles, etc., but will probably be finished in a day or two. How fun is this plastic stuff?? Way COOOOOOOOOOLLL
  5. Hey Bill This is really a beautiful build. It has a subtle quiet "elegance". The colors and the finish really make it stand out . I'll keep following this to see how it turns out. Don't we love this hobby - Dave
  6. I second that Very nice build and nice to see something a little different
  7. WOW !! Now That's what I'm Talkin' about This is just outrageously COOOOOOOOOOOOOLLL !! Great imagination and follow through - I love it !! I'm gonna watch this and see how you finish it. The Treehugger( I love my tree's too )
  8. Thanks Bill and everyone else here. I'm like you Bill, I'm just here to build what I enjoy and share it, and enjoy other peoples stuff too, and if I get to help someone - all the better .
  9. I'm really enjoying this build. You can do so many more different things than on a typical project. Kind of takes you out of the box and makes you think and plan with new idea's. Very challanging to try subtle nuances, and some extreme detailing and see what happens. Obviously not everyone - LOL likes my "NUANCES" , but hey, this for me is about all kinds of fun stuff. "Plastic Rules" and so does "Creativity" - EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEHAH !!!
  10. This is really turning out to be fun. . Getting closer to getting it finished. Got the runningboards done. Used electrical tape and BMF.Did the same for the feature behind the passengers. Also BMD'd the hood latches and handle's. Got the interior glued in and the body glued to the fenders. Hinging the hood was next. I've read so many times people here wanting to see hinges done and went ahead and photographed each step. I use two different sizes of brass and slide them together and bend to shape. Once that's done, I ready the hood pieces, by aligning them together with tape so the have the proper relationship to each other. I use short pieces of tubing on the ends of the looped part of the hinge, so that once installed, the hood pieces can be slipped apart for finish and proper adjustment when glued in place.
  11. Hey everyone I HOPE YOU GUYS ENJOY THIS. A FRIEND OF MINE IN A CLUB I BELONG TO HERE IN OREGON JUST FINISHED THIS THIS YELLOW DODGE MOONEYES BONNEVILLE RACER FOR A LOCAL CHALLANGE BUILD-OFF BETWEEN TWO MODEL CLUBS. CHRIS, THE BUILDER, SENT PICS TO " MOONEYES CORP." AND THEY DID THIS MAJOR RELEASE ON HIS MODEL. THOUGHT EVERYONE HERE WOULD THINK THIS IS PRETTY KILLER . PRETTY COOL HUH? CHECK IT OUT HERE - Just point and click http://www.mooneyesusa.com/news/045.htm You can go to laneautomodelers.org and check out more of Chris's builds on their website. You can email him on the site and congratulate him. He'd like that!!
  12. Hey Randx0 "Mere Mortals" huh The difference here I think is that I'm way older than most here and have in many cases made way more mistakes trying to get these skills perfected. They are only skills because I never gave in to all the failure's and mistakes I experienced and created and depended on all the praying I did for HELP !!! I have a drawer full of different tapes, but Tamiya's to me is the best. Over the years I have worked really hard at perfecting color seperation lines and am still working on it. Patience, good tape, a brand new #11 blade, and a steady hand work well for me . On the Packard, I used the narrow Tamiya tape to go the full length of the lower portion of the beltline. On the top of the beltline I used both the narrow tape and the 3/4 inch tape, covering everything. I use a "round" toothpick to press it into the creveces as I lay the tape in place. If you just lay the tape down completely and then press into place, the tape tends to release, making it difficult to follow the body molding with the Xacto blade. I always use a brand new #11 Xacto blade and carefully follow the body lines. Once the tape area's that need to be pealed away, are removed, I re-press the tape back into place. The other things I like about Tamiya tape is that it can be seen through, and leaves no residue if you let the paint dry before taping. I remove the tape immediately after painting, not allowing the paint to form a "bridge",as the paint will peal away with the tape leaving a jagged edge. Sometimes the paint dries extra fast on a warm day or it takes a while to remove the tape carefully, and the edge may raise a bit. I use some "spit" on my finger or on an earswab and press the paint back down into place while it's still plyable and tacky. Usually right after the tape is removed. Clear coating is another tool I use to make the edges "Crisp" and sharp. I spray an "inter-coat clear over the base color and let it dry over night before taping, and shooting the trim color. After the tape is cut and then removed that exposes the area to be painted, I shoot a light clear-coat to "Seal" the edge of the tape so there is no leaching of the trim color under the tape edge, wait 15 minutes and then shoot the trim color. Then remove the tape. After checking the "edge" and doing any repairs, I wait another 15 minutes then shoot a couple light coats of clear over the entire car to seal the trim color. Be carefull not to use too much clear here as fresh trim color tend to want to "float" or "release" up into the clear and eliminates that nice "crisp" seperation line. Wait till the next day and shoot another light coat, medium coat and wet coat, of clear coat, waiting no longer than 24 hours, as "lacquers" and "Urethanes" have a window of time before your paint won't stick properly and may even "fish-eye".( I don't use enamels - Too unpredictable for me ) The last layers of clear coat really make the colors "Pop" and "Define" the sharp edge of the color seperation lines. It sounds like a lot of work, but for me, I love the "Sharp Crispness" as you call it. It can give a model that extra "Gotcha Factor" and contrast that I strive for , and that we all love to create. Lastly, rub the paint out after you've waited 3 days to a week depending on weather and drying conditions, and then give it a good wax job. Any more questions, give a holler and I'll try to help Hope this works for ya - Dave
  13. Hey George How much is your pension?
  14. Old enough to drive this '57 Safari Wagon I owned and restored in the early '70's. What a kick
  15. STUNNING I love the old sedans. You did a beautiful job on it . I love the color and all the detail work. The interior color adds a nice contrast, and I like the wheels and the stance. Just right. The Treehugger
  16. Happy 4th of July V8 Packard I belong to two model clubs and some of the guys would agree with you. I appreciate your openness questioning my motivation,and also your compliment on my skills. I've been an avid car guy all my life and also a Plasti-aholic as well as an artist,and a person who is always looking for a way to do something a little different, that maybe no one has thought of. Kind of fun to step out of the box. In some area's I'm a purist like you are, especially with real cars. But for me this is plastic and a hobby. It's a way for me to express my imagination, and creative thinking and artistic talent, to create something that brings me enjoyment, and share it people here that are friends. It's fun belonging to a forum like this where you can make friends and and receive honest comment's like yours and other's. We all love what we do here and enjoy giving each other encouragement. I hope you stick around and get aquinted with us, and maybe come to undrestand some of our unorthadox reasoning for enjoying what we do here, and how we do it. I hope to here from you again. Keep in touch - Dave Here's a car I owned and restored in the early 70's. Maybe you'd enjoy this more. It's a '57 Pontiac Safari Wagon. Just too much fun
  17. Here's a update pic, mocked up with a little more done. The wheels come from two seperate die cast cars. Bigs and littles. There the same except for the centers. I had several set's of both, so there was enough for the side-mounts(spares) and to cut the center knock-offs out of the Bigs and install on the littles.Pics will hopefully explain. The sidemount already has the knock-off installed. Here's the knock-off's ready to be installed
  18. COOL CAMO What kind of underbrush do you hide that in? - LOL Nice to see something different and nicely done. I used to build military too, like others here. Still got a few unstarted kits - HMMMMM.
  19. Now this is where the fun is for me . I love the old classics and street-rods, so any chance I get I'll combine them. I'm in the assembly stage, so I'm taking my time. Usually do anyway Lot's of pieces right now. Interior is pretty far along. Cut the tub apart so I could detail the door panels better. Also got the "carpeting" in. For carpet I use suede - the backside of the goatskin leather I get from Denmark and Sweden. Very soft and lifelike and works easily. I buy it in "skins". Before painting the body parts and the up-top, I used a tiny drill for all the places where "snaps" go for installing the up-top and side curtains, as well as those that hold the up-top together. I use very tiny straight pins I get from a fabric supply house. It took 23 for the top and 29 for the body. Very life-like. I cut the hood into several pieces, and will install hinges in two places. Got the body painted next and then rubbed out to a nice shine. Next, I detailed the top and added the snaps, and then added the snaps to the body also. Lot's more to do, but hey, how many people get to street-rod a half-a mill Packard
  20. A lot of us know about other sites that have multiple problems, so I just want to say thanks to Gregg and his staff for keeping this site so user friendly. I hope others here will agree and give these guy's some KUDOS . I also want to thank all you members for being so welcoming and friendly here. It makes it fun to share and participate . Thanks Gregg The Treehugger ( I just love our tree's)
  21. I really enjoyed reading this topic and the posts Wish they had an imodicon for "tongue in cheek" I hope everyone who gets involved in these discussions has a "REAL LIFE", because if plastic is all you have - In my opinion - your in trouble !! I've been building an entering contests for over 50 years now , and if anyone thinks contests are un-biased, you need to step out of your denial! I've been on both ends; judged and judge, and heard it all. As far as people's choice - who do you think are the majority voting? Maybe the contestants and their family and friends? And who gets tired of the same person winning year after year. Sure, the count is valid, and so are the votes, but in this particular case, and others, the voters didn't necessarily vote for someone else's model they liked - they voted against the guy that wins time and again. Seen it happen over and over in the past, and it'll keep happening as long as there are wannabee's with entitlement issues,who need their ego's built up using plastic - GO FIGURE. SORRY, but to be really honest - these models are childrens toy's that evolved into playthings for men. When I was a kid men didn't play with model kit's, and if they did we stayed away from them because they were looked at as weird. Yes I play with childrens toys, but at least I understand the truth and the analogy. I compete very rarely anymore. Dissapointing to hear the back-stabbing and see good up and coming builders treated so badly and they leave the hobby. And we wonder why the hobby is dying. The saddest evolution I've seen in this hobby, especially at contests, is that winning is very seldom about being the best, and paying your dues to get there. IT'S JUST ABOUT WINNING-ANYWAY YOU CAN!! SAD !! SOLUTION? Build for fun first, and encourage other's.
  22. Here's one of those fun projects that I love to do . Never built a motorcycle kit before, so before Wal...... closed everything out, I got a few of the Revell kits. What beautiful kits these are. Tons of CHROME. " I LOVE CHROME"!!! . Anyhow, you guys know how it goes. You open the box and your brain goes crazy and the "JUICES FLOW" - LOL Well, after I cleaned up all the slobber , and started playing, this is what I ended up with. I chopped the frame and re-shaped it. Kicked the forks out just a tad, widened the rear fender with that "FAT BOY" look, and built a seat for it. I shortened the exhausts and re-plated them with my chrome system. Added some chrome cable, some matching 30's on the rear, some Tamiya Slime-time-Lime , some clear, and some flames. I got a few more of these and I'm just gonna hafta do this again
  23. Well, we've caught up to the past again. This is a very cool technology twist on a very old idea, that was a short term fad used by coach-builders for about 4 years in the very early 30's. I.E - using cloth for car bodies. I'm only mentioning this for some of you guy's who didn't know, not to play this very cool idea down. These are pics of a scratch-built 1935 Duesenberg SJ Airflow Coup', I had at the 2007 GSL. At the time of "Inspiration" - LOL , I was captivated by the colors and the idea of an all-cloth body. I built the car so that others could be exposed to the same things. The original one-off car, car was built in Pasadena Calif. in 1935 by coachbuilders Bowman & Schwarts at a cost of $20,000 dollars for just the body! Chassis was extra. About $14,000 extra - in 1935 !!! Just a bit of trivia. Funny how things like this evolve
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