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swede70

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About swede70

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    MCM Avid Poster

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  • Scale I Build
    1:25 and 1:12

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  • Location
    Fraser, MI
  • Full Name
    Michael Thomas Kotwick

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  1. Greetings, I don't know if it would help you, but a favorite and non-obvious hobby accessory for 1:18th scale aluminum wheels to reach for would be something called the Pegasus 23 inch Stepped Aluminum Sleeves sold as a pack of four with tiny sidewall tires intended for use on 1:25th lowrider topics. If you find suitable ARE CP-200/'Daisy mags' wheel centers, chop up and adjust the aforementioned aluminum parts to come up with whatever depth and width of wheel you desire. I've attached a picture of a Welly Trans-Am BOSS 302 with modified ERTL wheels with just plastic GMP outer lips to communicate what can be done. Also, I've seen a resin transkit for the wheels in particular for the topic you've taken on, although they represent something old and acknowledged as out of production and stock. For application it might be possible to find that which you require, although I don't have any solid leads to afford you to my regret. Good luck! Mike K./Swede70
  2. Some other work then... Seen above, the cast-in drip rail trim and weather sealing has been filed off and flattened as necessary. Further, I found that the side window openings seemed a bit chopped and lower than what I'd desire, hence each side was filed up to effectively open the greenhouse to a modest degree. The exterior door handles have been ground flat and replaced with '72 Welly Pontiac Trans Am Firebird items, while in some photos one will see a '68 Lane Firebird exterior side view mirror in a pretty standard spec. Even without flares the model doesn't appear horrible. Nothing epic, but the cast-in chassis identification has been sanded out, while the cast-in fuel tank has been removed, plugged, and replaced with a fabricated fuel cell housing. Lastly, the white rectangular plugs disguise where side pipes might otherwise be mounted on this ancient tool. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70
  3. Moving along then... The old ERTL '70 Camaro is usually found as a Z/28 with the early season rear lip spoiler in place. Such won't do on this model as the '70 season gathered pace, hence a less common Pro Stock release had to be purchased to come up with the rudimentary D80 high spoiler that was homologated and fitted later. Trouble is encountered given the ends of the spoiler are too pronounced and rounded, while the end caps aren't fully finished and had to be supplemented for the addition of plastic, Microballoons filler and light putty work. Happily the refueling port cut into the trunk wasn't ghastly difficult to do, requiring only that I file down a small section at a slight angle without further complication. Generally the effort is bearing fruit. Thanks... What's needed then... ...sort of a starting point in terms of the rear spoiler largely unmodified at this juncture. Notice the missing end cap profile along the bottom sides... ...looking happier for reasoned additions. I shouldn't have carved out the deck lid pin retention cut outs straight down as I did and will need to fill in the bottoms of each to create access holes instead, but still - not terrible in sum. Notice the refueling cut out taking form on center section of the spoiler along the bottom... ...looking better still for further shape refinement, some plug work, as well as filing consistent with affording space for the refueling point. Lastly, the surface profile of the rear bumper on this tool is pretty lumpy, so I've sanded out what I could to even things up. Notice too that the tiny overriders otherwise a feature of the back of any ERTL second generation Camaro were removed at the same time. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70
  4. This would be some stuff done underhood in recent days, Shown is the updated ACME/GMP engine wearing resin Hwy. 61 '69 Camaro Z/28 finned valve covers, as well as a GMP '67 Penske Camaro single 4BBL intake. Notice too the angled radiator installation plus oil cooler, most of which is either modified GMP Trans-Am Camaro stuff or material fabricated from sheet plastic sized to suit. Just cleaning up the radiator support and perforating such was a challenge given the chassis plastic employed on this old ERTL tool is very soft and is hard to work. Thanks... The topic seen at Laguna Seca '70 and photographed by Karl Ludvigsen. I had to do the aforementioned radiator installation, come up with the fresh air seal and AC air filter lid, as well as reposition the alternator versus how the ACME/GMP engine is configured as-delivered. Compressing much effort, this is how things are looking. Partial upper control arms may be spied, while the master cylinder and power booster are GMP Trans-Am Camaro stuff again. The cast-in battery and windshield wiper fluid bottle have been cut off and hence vanish from the scene for reasoned application. Note that stripping the paint off of the ACME/GMP engine takes determination, although it can be done. I had no confidence that I could simply paint over all that ORANGE finish, hence it HAD to come off! On a happy note, but for some installation pegs that required grinding down as well as pretty modest firewall sanding, the engine plus headers pretty much drops in. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70
  5. Greetings, Intent on creating a coherent grid of factory-backed 1:18th SCCA Trans-Am entries even as my focus shifts from project to project, this would constitute the beginnings of a '70 Chaparral Camaro. Replicarz intends to release a sealed resin version of the topic for $239.95 about a year from now, and needless to say - I think I'm priced out! So, that said, my aim is come up with something competitive with all opening features, fabricating (if ever so slowly) that which will be needed consistent with doing what it is I do. Expect the usual activity, followed by dead silence, followed by renewed activity... The topic in all its glory, seen at Mid-Ohio '70. I'm pondering flares, while most of the difficult parts gathering has been done; i.e. the less-common ERTL standard-nose/full front bumper shell '70 Camaro material is in hand, complete with a flat hood, doors nonperforated for exterior side mirrors, while the tall D80 rear spoiler is also mine to use with necessary modifications. Wheels will be 'my' resin Minilites, tires will be Jouef/Eagles Race/Universal Hobbies Ford GT40 Mirage Firestones, the engine, an ACME/GMP Trans-Am Chevrolet small block 302 with mods. to reproduce the spec. needed. I tend to get lost fabricating and mocking up this and that, hence nothing really changes does it? Thanks... Mike K./Swede70
  6. Greetings, A short '70 T/G Racing Jerry Titus Trans-Am Trans Am Firebird update this - albeit nothing dramatic. Some notes outlining what is seen may be found beneath each image uploaded. Thanks... ...given the removal of the honeycomb-shaped trim center cap on the stock steering wheel couldn't be achieved cleanly sans use of a lathe, I decided to employ a pair of wheels so that I could sand off the center of one example, drill the spokes, and then mate a second padded rim to what remained. It will work! ...seen above is the old '70 chassis with the new '69 ACME Firebird Pontiac 400 (nee 303 c.i.d. then) engine installed plus mods. Surely an improvement given how primitive the old ERTL tool is in this regard. ...noticed are the cleaned up and revised refueling sites drilled through the shell and plugged and depressed slightly for use of plastic rod situated in plastic tube. The fuel cap employed here is a resin clone of a Hwy. 61 '70 340 Dodge Dart piece. Only seen obliquely, a fabricated radiator support holds in position a 1:18th GMP '70 GMP radiator as well as other items. ...while here I decided to pull off the fill panels made for the headlamp buckets as well as the front indicators. Each was puttied and reshaped before being duplicated for the creation of a urethane mold. A bit cleaner then... ...and finally, the front flares integrated into the filed out front fenders. For heating the flares in hot water I was able to subtly reshape each consistent with coming up with a more balanced profile, and hence matters are better. The rear flares need further mass and shape refinement, but aren't wildly off for purposes of being a starting point. Thanks for reviewing this update... Mike K./Swede70
  7. Excellent weathering technique. Thanks for sharing... Mike K./Swede70
  8. Greetings, Picking up on a project, I've been unhappy with the loose and floppy operation of the doors on an old 1:18th ERTL Pontiac Firebird Trans Am and tried the following to tighten their operation. One can only achieve so much for applying torque to attachment screws in excess or for doubling up washers, hence what is suggested here has value. Kept brief, I applied some thick CA glue to a plastic rod intent on evenly applying a coating of the stuff to the inside of the hole cast into the dog leg hinge as-delivered. I needed something to take up the slack in the hinge, and this seemed a low-tech way to do it. While things were still wet and setting up, I further applied many a dusting of MicroBalloon filler to lend greater substance to what was just glue at this point. I dusted from either side, trying to apply the filler from all directions so as to be consistent. After waiting for the doors/hinge castings to dry, I was pleased to discover that enough bulk had been added to the inner diameter to each hole that I couldn't fit either door into position; i.e. I'd have to employ a small round file to open up each for a selective fit. The process was slow for the stuff is hard, but then I view this as a plus given one can very deliberately creep up to what degree of tightness is desired. Something to try then if one isn't strictly availed the option of pounding down on the top of a rivet, etc. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70
  9. It's looking very good thus far. Thanks for sharing... Mike K./Swede70
  10. Looks terrific! Thanks for sharing and compliments on a task well-done. Mike K./Swede70
  11. Greetings, Just a light update of what's been said thus far. Try to go with a non-tinted variety of whatever nail polish remover you employ. The tint can stain a light colored surface, hence the need to go with whatever clear or modestly-tinted option (light yellow is better than medium pink for example) exists. I used to apply Marlboro decals to many a McLaren F1 topic, while it was a horror to discover that the white painted sections could be (temporarily) damaged in this fashion. As many a hypocritical parent has shouted - do what I say and not as I do! Also - be sure to have a large supply of cotton swabs on hand consistent with introducing new swabs on a quickly rotating basis before the nail polish remover evaporates away and allows material to be dumped back onto the surface to be cleaned. Turn the cotton swab consistent with drawing away the tampo print and pulling residue from the surface, while very soon indeed you'll need to toss the swab out and grab another. Straight acetone is of course 'hotter' than nail polish remover which contains only a percentage of such. Oh - and maybe consider seeking out what are termed 'makeup removers' which are sort of super cotton swabs with tighter wound cotton balls with a blunt profile on one end, and a comparatively sharp point formed on the other. All drug stores have them, while the flexibility of these becomes apparent through use. If it helps (and even if it seems to border on overkill), my own practice is to scrub down the majority of whatever tampo prints are seen with usually about 50 to 100 swabs employing nail polish remover without risking underlying paint damage for using too powerful right up front. This 'done', I've found it helps to take digital photo images of the work to reveal what has been missed. I've discovered that residue that isn't strictly visible to the eye can be turned up for taking a few images and inspecting such carefully. Having isolated what work remains to be done, I'll then pull out the 100% acetone and apply some to a buffing rag and work over the entire surface that was formally home to the tampo print to basically carry away what goo remains. Further photos are taken and inspected, another round of 100% percent acetone cleaning is done (quickly and without great pressure applied), and then things tend to come together. Good luck! Mike K./Swede70
  12. Greetings, Having secured a set of actual AutoART '69 Corvette wheels and tires, I decided to swap out the resin clone wheelcovers and Hwy. 61 tires with what is now seen. Fortunately, the wheels are zero offset, hence to trim the gray rings bonded to the AutoART wheelcovers down to half the thickness of the rim width is all that was strictly required to ensure they'd be happy on this model. The fit is tight enough across assemblies to the extent that no glue was required. The model sort of looks like a period game show giveaway at this point, although at least it's a bit different! A new ACME '65 SS396 Chevelle engine has been ordered and will be added soon. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70
  13. Thank you for posting these - certainly it looks to have been a nice outing. Mike K./Swede70
  14. Greetings, This would be a 'foundling' 1:18th scale Tonka/Polistil Porsche 959 that was traded in at a local automobilia store in lieu of the delivery of a svelte AutoART rendition of the same topic. In essence, this is an early unsophisticated tool of the most sophisticated automobile of the period. Yes - it does look like a generic jelly bean/aerodynamic marshmallow on wheels, although in the early 1980's it was startling and the stuff of boyhood poster art. Technology dripped off of this pathfinding near-200 mph supercar, and yet it could be driven just as a car and would vanish in a Wal-Mart parking lot today. As to this scale example, most would consider the Tonka model rubbish, and less than a cost-effective basis for a project - but it was free and constitutes a low-impact challenge. It does come with the flush/covered wheels which were not seen on the 1:1 production model, hence this is something, while in truth the proportions of the model really aren't horrible. It unscrews and/or snaps apart much like a period Burago release, while sanding down assorted body shell mold lines proved feasible enough. The door window frames are thick, but in a low-key way I'll try to get the better of it. Seen back of the shell in primer is a $16 parts car picked up recently, hence know they go for almost nothing. Thanks... ...note the early flush covers on the wheels then. ...the body scrubbed of mold lines, the wheels sanded, repainted, and lightly black-washed then. ...heavy door window frames, but not horrid. Given it isn't a shatteringly sophisticated tool or build, I think I'll just leave the wing/deck lid gap alone given it isn't all that distracting... Still looking fresh no less than 30 years after it's debut. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70
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