I'll do my best to disregard the teasing tone of the message left above. At some point people post so many messages that they claim ownership of the whole experience of the board, and I suppose if I don't adjust my presentation to suit whatever might be their expectations and standards, then I'm a target. Complaint lodged, complaint ignored. Mike K.
Greetings and thanks for the kind feedback... Although unpleasantly laborious, a new shell with new flares has largely been worked up - kind thanks to ibj40/Jim F. for all the valued assistance and support (i.e. I'm still using up what I have!). Other modest things to report as well:
...this would be an attempt at door roundels w/black outline border plus door driver identification (Ariel font, 14 size if I accurately recall). Believe or not, I just used a black Sharpie pen and a stencil set to get the outline, although it's best to carefully seal such with the decal bonder in a can as illustrated; i.e. apply the stuff too heavily and the marker runs. I haven't determined how to best cut the images out cleanly, whereas I'm thinking of applying different varieties of Tamiya white to insure that the resulting roundels are as vibrant as they can be prior to application onto the work much like any other waterslide decal.
...this would be the stuff of my flares in a particularly raw state. Some time ago I began upon a 1:18th scale Hwy. 61-based 1970 Autodynamics Trans Am Dodge Challenger, and had the foresight to copy what I'd worked up for the use of urethane molds to backstop my efforts. The copies seen above look a bit pudgy, although I've found it easier to remove material to arrive at a proper shape versus adding material later and struggling thus.
...much thinned here, and quite substantially recontoured and reshaped. If only the movement of your mouse reflected how much time was spent to proceed from point A to point B!
...ignore the '68 Daytona 24HR image for the front flares aren't really in the final configuration! Here is seen the heavily reworked front flares in position within filed cutouts on the body proper. Note how the fender opening contour blends easily into the flares both towards the front and terminating towards the end of flare as it blends back into the fender. And yes, the front valence has been cut out entirely - a nasty business given I did this by hand with a simple razor saw over two days. Lastly, the clumsily rendered B-pillars and associated cast-in weather sealing have been filed off complete, faintly noticeable for the clean finish of the surfaces just below the roof edges as seen here.
...the flares in place with white craft glue only. Seeking a risk-free paint test platform, the reader will notice the otherwise odd hood black out treatment as well as the stripework witnessed across the top of the vehicle. The normal rice paper Tamiya masking tape is great stuff, although I have reservations about the use of the fineline tape that they also produce that didn't quite seal as well. Notice too the removal of the raised rear side indicator detail on either side, later to be partially puttied in so that the same will appear as a soft, filled and reflector-shaped indentation on the panel work
...and finally viewed across the top. The hood roundel represents another test of material and will soon vanish as the shell is media blasted. Some room for adjustment is had for the flares can be adjusted in and out for either swinging in or out from the top prior to contour matching the outer lip to the fender surfaces. And finally, I may drill out windshield wiper mount holes for they seem to be missing on later Greenlight Trans Am releases. Thanks for examining this most recent update.
...modest updates to report, although to this point little has been done underhood.
...the front bumperettes have been returned by the vacuum plater, after first being sanded to remove mold lines as well as the front license plate. Noticeable, though surely difficult to discern, the exterior door handle has been flooded with body color paint, while old Detail Master photo etched door lock cylinders have been added to each raised 'lock' assembly. Matter appear less toy-like in sum...
...shorn of unattractive locating pins and mold lines, the delicate chromed exhaust tips have here been reset.
...held in reserve at this point, seen are a pair of cast resin 1:18th ERTL Collectibles 1967 Impala SS 427 valve covers in combination with a 1:18th Hwy. 61 1969 Camaro COPO air cleaner lid, also cast in resin and subsequently vacuum plated. I'll likely add '396' identification to the lid from an old Fred Cady 1:25th sheet, all the more so given that the air cleaner art always struck me as a bit large for 1:25th use anyhow. Thanks for reviewing this most recent update... Mike K.
...more of the same, with revised wheels employing Pegasus aluminum sleeves - albeit not the 'stepped' variety which has been discontinued by the manufacturer. The 'stepped sleeve' product afforded a better contour at the edge of the rim lip, but alas, one can't have everything available in perpetuity. If you should have trouble with the www.pegasushobbies.com website, know that it has been superseded by www.pegasushobbies.net which will allow online ordering of product. My choice of color still appears a bit too strong, hence pondering the revision of another shell plus flares given that stripping lacquer would also entail ruining what delicate resin and putty work went into capturing what is seen below. At the very least I wouldn't be tossing away the proverbial 'bird in hand' if I started anew independent of that which I've worked up. Thanks for reviewing this post...
Hello again, After sanding down the finish errors present along the top surfaces of the model, I resprayed the work in a slightly lighter Tamiya lacquer aerosol as seen here. Noticed is a ride height/track mock up using standard GMP ARE Torque Thrust wheels which will be replaced with wheels almost identical to those used on the later-season blue #2 Mustang. If it might help others, included below is a scan of the '68 Shelby Racing Co. decal that appears mostly as a blur either on the quarter panel of the cars early season, or positioned on the C-pillar when the cars were painted yellow. Kind thanks to Phil Jacobs for sourcing this rare artwork. Pressing ahead again then...
Greetings, Pretty good stuff - I envy the foresight you demonstrated for scooping up multiples of the GMP Todco '69 Camaro to facilitate such projects in particular. I remember you'd also tried a marriage between the Road Legends/Yat Ming '69 Firebird Trans Am - another unlikely pairing that also worked out unexpectedly well. Thanks for sharing. - Some scattered work then, although some reverses to report too...
...seen are all the roll cage tubes back of the main hoop taking shape. I ended up drilling through the fabricated bulkhead as well as the Welly floor section insert so that judging the length of the actual tubes as well as the angles where they touch the panels prior to gluing wasn't so critical. Though hard to see, a pair of tubes continue on into the trunk area where a cast resin fuel cell is situated.
...sorry - fuzzy as all get out this image. This would be a modified Hwy. 61 BOSS 302 oil pan with the addition of a scratch built sump in the style of the Aviaid pan visible upon a pair of Tunnel Port 302's in a pit lane photo found in the new Lipetz Trans Am Era book. Early season photos demonstrate that a cast aluminum Cobra pan was employed. A third design was said to be used employing exterior drainbacks, although this I've not seen.
...this would be the hood black out applied, while notice too how the entire headlamp bucket is painted akin to the smaller J. Titus image seen earlier in this thread. Masking proved problematic until I decided to apply Tamiya tape to another shell and cut the same with an Xacto knife smoothly across the recess formed between the bucket and the fender proper. Once I cut the masking, I simply transferred the remaining bit to the painted shell prior to spraying. Headlamp bucket fill panels are difficult to make out here, although they look nice for being well shaped. Also note the revised 'rubber' seal around the fuel cell inlet. All appeared good until this point - that is until I basically wrecked the paint on the top of the model for clumsy handling and slipshod masking of the stripe work to come. Doubts also exist as to the veracity of the shade of yellow used, hence I'm going to salvage matters best I can. At first I felt gutted for my mistake, but I suppose that the use of a rather thin primer as well as thin Tamiya color coats makes matters less dire than initially feared.
...for near endless review of exterior photos in-period, I'm still convinced that for select races that the paler '67 shade of yellow was substituted for Special Yellow WT6066 which has a slightly greater punch while also appearing a touch pale in certain light and for certain so-so period color processes. A mid-year offering hinting of more vibrant Grabber colors to come later in the era, perhaps this accounts for the variations seen in body hue that really don't factor across so many reasoned 1967 images inspected? I think I'm on my own making the WT6066 leap per se, but at present it makes sense to me. Thanks to the kindness of area authority Phil Jacobs, the identity of the shade used in '67 and beyond was learned, whereas I'll revise this post and record such here.
...and finally the next set of wheels taking shape. I failed to properly wire brush the top right example, hence distracting flash is noticed. MM magnesium with a dusting of Tamiya Pearlescent Clear seems the best way to go here. New aluminum outer rings to come. Thanks for reviewing this update... Mike K.
...at least two of these decals are needed per '67 car, located forward of the wheel arch on the front fender in '67. The '68 Shelby Racing Co. decal is of a different design, while someone on another board has kindly come through with information concerning the look and dimensions of such.
...here is seen a fuel inlet cutout on the deck lid of the soon-to-be yellow '68. I ended up fixing fast the panel to a few panels of cardboard with lengths of duct tape so both hands could control the drill, whereas a small segment of the same tape was used right where I'd drill through to ensure the bit wouldn't skip about and thus mar the surface. The rest was simply done with files and a coil or two of sandpaper...
...very difficult to photograph well, this is the body in paint. Yes - this model will sit lower than the blue '68. At this point it seems likely that the project will gobble up at least four or five cans of Tamiya aerosol, hence not a cheap endeavor. I later went back and subtly redid the panel line formed between the quarter panel and the rocker just behind each door, trying if you will to come up more with a welded panel line versus an inelegant razor saw cut line. Also, it was discovered that gaps existed between the blended in rocker panels and the door jams/inner rocker panels, and given applying extra paint via spraying was only so effective, I ended up applying paint via a brush prior to applying an overcoat of same work to disguise the effort. It's not terrible in sum. Thanks for skimming this update. Mike K.
Greetings, If it helps you, I've searched a bit across both the Dan Gurney as well as the best Swede Savage pages on Facebook searching for reasonably clear images capturing the 'other color' to the best possible effect. Ponder the following with the understanding that the best is first and that things go downhill as you continue! The Speed Merchants shot of Swede Savage at St. Jovite may not be the most trustworthy for the limitations of period color process, although isn't the first Gurney shot seen below fresh and vibrant? Anyhow, ponder the following:
...things can look a bit better underneath for removal of the product identification back of the torque boxes on either side. A body shop sanding block was helpful here.
...first time in primer, this would be a modified 1:18th Greenlight '68 Mustang shell with appropriate flare work added front and rear. The rocker panel trim overlay was further bonded onto the shell and smoothed, panel lines were cut for the fenders looking forward, while a small line was etched between the quarter panel and the rocker panel on each side. Know that I hope to do an earlier season '68 Shelby Racing Co. entry in the more vivid of the two yellows employed that year so that in the end I'll have two '67 team cars as well as two '68 renditions.
...notice too the mildly indented rear side indicator detail, not installed but rather plugged in.
...hard to tell if this is the slightly more vibrant shade of yellow as described, but akin to what I desire to replicate. Note the roll hoop mounted signalling lamp akin to what was later used in '69 and in '70 on the AAR 'Cudas. I believe the venue here is '68 Bryar, NH.
...Titus at speed, this certainly being the shade I hint at, the venue being Bridgehampton, NY. slightly later in the season. Thanks for reviewing this update... Mike K.
Very nice work ibj40 - I really like the discreet vent detail too... Yes, all I did was chop the standard Greenlight/ACME floor just forward of the main roll hoop mounts. Efforts to set new roll cage elements looking back met with grief last evening for the parts were so difficult to accurately size and place, so I'll likely end up drilling right through the insert to guide tubing straight through for better control of my work. The same will be done with the bars leading from the top of the main hoop through towards the trunk area; i.e. I imagine the way it should be! More model car 'mission creep' of which I am famous for.
...although mostly a white blur, this would be the chassis prior to substituting in the Welly Trans Am Mustang interior element. GIven the glass comes out of the ACME Mustang without too much trouble, here I'll use it as a guide to establish the evolving dimensions of the forward members of the roll cage with less risk of damaging it for manipulating the diecast body on and off it repeatedly. Also seen is a 1:18th Lane '68 Shelby Mustang dashboard (work here is incomplete) and a Welly Trans Am Mustang Grant steering wheel slated to go in. Hopefully I can cast the steering wheel so a ready supply will always be on call.
...this would be the support structure employed to situate the dash to the body. Setting it back isn't so hard, but rather elevating it and setting it on the right angle versus the dismal siting of the standard Greenlight/ACME panel is the chore here. More structure will be added to ensure that the dash effectively hangs off of the firewall and independently from the body proper.
...happily, no clearance issues to report. If all goes well, I'll soon have the dash suspended from the firewall and be ready to fabricate further elements of the roll cage.
...not perfection really, but note the removal of the battery and windshield washer solvent bottle otherwise cast-in to the inner fenders. Though hard to see, brackets have been fabricated to situate the strengthening brace across the suspension turrets. Perhaps I should go back and create a proper battery cut out and tray? Tamiya semi-gloss black works well as a slightly dingy chassis black as seen here.
...and finally, the definitive answer on where to display the otherwise lonely Shelby Racing Co. Toyota 2000 GT I happen to have. The models were observed chatting late into the night about opportunities lost in '68...
Greetings, Seen below will be the interior taking shape, combining the trim less rear seat pads with the bare 'stamped steel' detail otherwise found on the Welly Trans Am Mustang series noticeable here for wearing a silver finish. The main hoop of the roll cage has been fabricated, whereas after siting a Lane '68 Shelby GT350 Mustang dashboard off of the firewall, I should have the dimensions of the rest of the cage effectively locked in. The wheels and tires, to speak little of the engine and transmission seen here, simply reflect the stock 1:18th diecast offerings and stand to be replaced outright.
...also included is an old Aviaid oil pan decal useful for the purposes of reducing in scale and adding to the later-season oil pan soon to be finished. A chrome finish paint will be used to replicate the bright finish Aviaid then employed and still employs.