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About swede70

  • Rank
    MCM Avid Poster

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  • Scale I Build
    1:25 and 1:12

Profile Information

  • Location
    Fraser, MI
  • Full Name
    Michael Thomas Kotwick

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1,800 profile views
  1. Greetings, Picking up on a project, I've been unhappy with the loose and floppy operation of the doors on an old 1:18th ERTL Pontiac Firebird Trans Am and tried the following to tighten their operation. One can only achieve so much for applying torque to attachment screws in excess or for doubling up washers, hence what is suggested here has value. Kept brief, I applied some thick CA glue to a plastic rod intent on evenly applying a coating of the stuff to the inside of the hole cast into the dog leg hinge as-delivered. I needed something to take up the slack in the hinge, and this seemed a low-tech way to do it. While things were still wet and setting up, I further applied many a dusting of MicroBalloon filler to lend greater substance to what was just glue at this point. I dusted from either side, trying to apply the filler from all directions so as to be consistent. After waiting for the doors/hinge castings to dry, I was pleased to discover that enough bulk had been added to the inner diameter to each hole that I couldn't fit either door into position; i.e. I'd have to employ a small round file to open up each for a selective fit. The process was slow for the stuff is hard, but then I view this as a plus given one can very deliberately creep up to what degree of tightness is desired. Something to try then if one isn't strictly availed the option of pounding down on the top of a rivet, etc. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70
  2. It's looking very good thus far. Thanks for sharing... Mike K./Swede70
  3. Herb Adams/Team Associates 73 Pontiac Grand Am-Done!

    Looks terrific! Thanks for sharing and compliments on a task well-done. Mike K./Swede70
  4. Greetings, Just a light update of what's been said thus far. Try to go with a non-tinted variety of whatever nail polish remover you employ. The tint can stain a light colored surface, hence the need to go with whatever clear or modestly-tinted option (light yellow is better than medium pink for example) exists. I used to apply Marlboro decals to many a McLaren F1 topic, while it was a horror to discover that the white painted sections could be (temporarily) damaged in this fashion. As many a hypocritical parent has shouted - do what I say and not as I do! Also - be sure to have a large supply of cotton swabs on hand consistent with introducing new swabs on a quickly rotating basis before the nail polish remover evaporates away and allows material to be dumped back onto the surface to be cleaned. Turn the cotton swab consistent with drawing away the tampo print and pulling residue from the surface, while very soon indeed you'll need to toss the swab out and grab another. Straight acetone is of course 'hotter' than nail polish remover which contains only a percentage of such. Oh - and maybe consider seeking out what are termed 'makeup removers' which are sort of super cotton swabs with tighter wound cotton balls with a blunt profile on one end, and a comparatively sharp point formed on the other. All drug stores have them, while the flexibility of these becomes apparent through use. If it helps (and even if it seems to border on overkill), my own practice is to scrub down the majority of whatever tampo prints are seen with usually about 50 to 100 swabs employing nail polish remover without risking underlying paint damage for using too powerful right up front. This 'done', I've found it helps to take digital photo images of the work to reveal what has been missed. I've discovered that residue that isn't strictly visible to the eye can be turned up for taking a few images and inspecting such carefully. Having isolated what work remains to be done, I'll then pull out the 100% acetone and apply some to a buffing rag and work over the entire surface that was formally home to the tampo print to basically carry away what goo remains. Further photos are taken and inspected, another round of 100% percent acetone cleaning is done (quickly and without great pressure applied), and then things tend to come together. Good luck! Mike K./Swede70
  5. Greetings, Having secured a set of actual AutoART '69 Corvette wheels and tires, I decided to swap out the resin clone wheelcovers and Hwy. 61 tires with what is now seen. Fortunately, the wheels are zero offset, hence to trim the gray rings bonded to the AutoART wheelcovers down to half the thickness of the rim width is all that was strictly required to ensure they'd be happy on this model. The fit is tight enough across assemblies to the extent that no glue was required. The model sort of looks like a period game show giveaway at this point, although at least it's a bit different! A new ACME '65 SS396 Chevelle engine has been ordered and will be added soon. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70
  6. VARAC Vintage Races

    Thank you for posting these - certainly it looks to have been a nice outing. Mike K./Swede70
  7. What diecast did you get today?

    Greetings, This would be a 'foundling' 1:18th scale Tonka/Polistil Porsche 959 that was traded in at a local automobilia store in lieu of the delivery of a svelte AutoART rendition of the same topic. In essence, this is an early unsophisticated tool of the most sophisticated automobile of the period. Yes - it does look like a generic jelly bean/aerodynamic marshmallow on wheels, although in the early 1980's it was startling and the stuff of boyhood poster art. Technology dripped off of this pathfinding near-200 mph supercar, and yet it could be driven just as a car and would vanish in a Wal-Mart parking lot today. As to this scale example, most would consider the Tonka model rubbish, and less than a cost-effective basis for a project - but it was free and constitutes a low-impact challenge. It does come with the flush/covered wheels which were not seen on the 1:1 production model, hence this is something, while in truth the proportions of the model really aren't horrible. It unscrews and/or snaps apart much like a period Burago release, while sanding down assorted body shell mold lines proved feasible enough. The door window frames are thick, but in a low-key way I'll try to get the better of it. Seen back of the shell in primer is a $16 parts car picked up recently, hence know they go for almost nothing. Thanks... ...note the early flush covers on the wheels then. ...the body scrubbed of mold lines, the wheels sanded, repainted, and lightly black-washed then. ...heavy door window frames, but not horrid. Given it isn't a shatteringly sophisticated tool or build, I think I'll just leave the wing/deck lid gap alone given it isn't all that distracting... Still looking fresh no less than 30 years after it's debut. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70
  8. 1/25 Firestone tire wanted

    I'll compare to my stash. I think these are old MPC road racing tires that were soon retooled somewhat and rereleased as Goodyears. Early versions with the 'Firestone' identification are rare and hard to come by. Indeed, I will look... Mike K./Swede70
  9. What's In The Box, BMW 2002 tii

    Thanks so much for the video walk-through. Surprised by the absence of proper door panels, while if it helps the two steering wheel and instrument panel options aren't really trim level related, but rather how the '74 and later cars were typically outfitted; i.e. faux wood instrument surround trim as well as the four spoke steering wheel. Certainly it's neat to see the aftermarket come through with one engine option, while at some point I suspect another firm will render good interior panels to introduce into the build. I had a '72 and later a '74, hence it was a thrill to see a modern manufacturer step up to the topic given it's dear to me. My 1:18th diecast garage has three examples within it. Again, my thanks... Mike K./Swede70
  10. Hello, from an aspie!

    Greetings, Being 'on the spectrum' with regards to Asperger's Syndrome can in a sense be put to good use in relation to scale modeling surely. An unusually intense capacity to focus is often required to solve many a problem or issue, while many on this board can light the way towards the acquisition of knowledge and development of skills base consistent with achieving very fair results. Should you attend a scale model show or partake of a club event, you'd quickly pick up on the reality of many other builders and collectors evidencing what others might see as quirks or mild peculiarities of behavior. What matters is that we are effective in our respective realms, that we husband our resources and give all we may in relation to that which we do well. Some aspects of our persons may not be fundamentally readjusted or refined to the degree we'd like, but this said, there is much to be said for making the very best of circumstance and to seek fellowship with others on different but largely parallel paths. Welcome to the board... Mike K./Swede70
  11. Greetings, Not of huge shattering interest, nevertheless some work has been performed on the #77 Challenger to the extent of better fitting the roll cage A-pillar bars and blending them to mesh well with the dashboard ends situated just beneath. The old dash was ruined for misjudging where to file the ends to make way for the bars passing atop each, hence a replacement was sought with the bottom half trimmed off as per the actual race car; i.e. the standard pad visible across the top was retained, while the heavy stock structure beneath isn't. Seen too are new interior panels, with the driver's side cut out to accommodate a roll cage side bar as shown. A literal challenge it is/was to ensure everything rests level, symmetrical, and tight overall. The seat mount has received work, while in relation to the suspension I hope/intend to reproduce the very unique locating links/design employed on the rear in particular. Slightly revised GMP Trans-Am Camaro tires might be added if the markings on the new Donohue and Yunick releases are judged superior and are of course sold separately. Will I ever paint anything I fabricate? Stay tuned for the next belated installment to learn more! Mike K./Swede70
  12. Corrugated Radiator Hose

    It's possible that scale air duct hose employed by some on 1:25th scale NASCAR topics might work. I have two sizes from a firm identified as Scale Model Speedway (200 Gilmore Ct., Owenboro, KY 42301), while the 1.5" Duct Hose product they produce or produced might be worth considering. Purchased only a thousand years ago by me, it seems good. Beyond this I haven't seen or found what you describe for looking avidly, although I hope others visiting this thread will illuminate a source. Just in passing, the old Jo-Han Trans-Am Javelins had these as cast parts - terrific then for Jo-Han Trans-Am Javelins and little else! Mike K./Swede70
  13. Greetings, For well-reasoned and well-informed feedback received (thanks Harry Q.!), I opted to pull the bars back of the main roll cage hoop and redid such consistent with ensuring they appear as two uninterrupted tubes cutting through clear to the trunk floor. I worried that I'd tear chunks out of the main hoop for removing the elements glued to it, but happily they came off without issue and were in part recycled to see what is on view here. That the cage comes out as one piece and isn't (yet) glued to the chassis certainly helps matters. The elements in the trunk were pulled and revised a bit for length and for the angle each was set, hence these are a touch better too. When stuff is scratch built and errors are made, corrections aren't typically life-threatening as long as supplies hold out! Like the usual 1:25th plastic kit fare seen elsewhere across this message board, the floors are rendered quite thick and factor against everything looking spot-on below the beltline of this modified 1:18th scale diecast. Also uploaded is small series of images relating how a pair of bars on bottom of the cage terminating towards the rear of each respective front footwell are slightly upturned and tucked in. I couldn't do this will my usual hollow plastic tubing with brass wire fed within, but rather performed the bend twice over with solid rod stock heated over an open flame. More work to come then. Thanks for reviewing this project update... Mike K./Swede70
  14. Hello... Not much to be seen here (I know), but some roll cage tubes/members now sprout from the trunk area to tie in to the main hoop looking forward. I was confident that the bars coming off the back of the aforementioned main hoop were appropriately spaced, accepted that they splayed out somewhat heading rearward, although the fuel cell dimensions didn't strictly allow everything to match heading further downward. Sort of a subtle cheat then for fit and alignment, but not looking horrible. Given only a sliver of the contents of the trunk might be seen for opening the panel, most irregularities noticed here will blend and be forgiven! Moving along, a repair has been made to the rear axle end to allowing fitting of the relatively good wheel/tire assemblies on all four corners. I intend to add further brake detail to each hub, while separate lug detail likewise stands to be added. Thanks for skimming this update... Mike K./Swede70
  15. Greetings, Seen - or perhaps not - would be my efforts to discreetly plug and fill in the floor pan to erase the presence of detail in the form of cast-in floor mats, upraised pegs to locate the stock front seats, as well as see to various perforations along the transmission/driveshaft tunnel of the Titus/Ward '69 Daytona class-winning '68 Firebird. A clunky clone of a Dremel which I have in my tool inventory with a thoroughly useless speed control nevertheless is quite good at burning plastic, hence it was used to roughly remove the mats which were more precisely cleaned up with metal files, sanding stick work, and much application. The shifter tower hole was plugged with material from an identical Lane interior floor to save a bit of work and time. Plastic rod stock helped seal most everything else, although the outboard seat belt mounting points still require filling and blending. No putty or fill work is witnessed - yet! Kind thanks for your skimming this update... Mike K./Swede70