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swede70

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About swede70

  • Rank
    MCM Friend

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  • Scale I Build
    1:25 and 1:12

Profile Information

  • Location
    Fraser, MI
  • Full Name
    Michael Thomas Kotwick

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1,398 profile views
  1. Greetings and thanks for skimming this post... Not having an encyclopedic knowledge of all the contingency sheet out there in relation to all the various accessory decals made, here's hoping someone (perhaps you) might guide me. I'm looking for 1970 Chrysler decals for a scale SCCA Trans Am project and am on the hunt for presumably waterslide 1:25th or 1:18th Dodge Scat Pack Club plus old Keith Black Racing Engines logos. I've found a Keith Black Racing Engines decal in bold black letters on a Slixx 1:16th sheet that will work nicely for a later-season 1:18th #76 Autodynamics Challenger that I'm working upon, but the other images have proven tough. Reviewing Mike's Decals and Slixx product offerings haven't yet turned up something suitable. Help needed, hence valued input sought. I might end up trying to produce my own via crude methods given the art can be found (obvious from what is seen below), but maybe someone knows something I don't? Kind regards to the board... Mike K.
  2. Greetings, A host of small changes made on the 1:18th Gurney 'Cuda helps matters greatly. Seen are new Patto's Place numerals moved about to suggest a late-season appearance, as well as accessory decals removed and replaced or overlaid with images a bit better registered or appropriately colored. Happily I am report that the ACME decal work came off easily for simply scratching relevant images off with only the use of a fingernail. Usually nail polish remover sans artificial coloring and cotton swabs in excess is the way to go here, but in this instance no measurable damage was done to the underlying surface for chipping off this image or that. Notice that the hood-situated #48 is positioned further forward, while the door numerals are now further apart. The PP sheet didn't include driver identification for atop the door numerals, hence now-rare Fred Cady waterslide images were employed from his Trans Am-themed 1:25th sheets of old. The driver identification decals have been positioned well forward reflecting again a late-season spec. The Champion Spark Plugs, STP, BELL Helmets and Union 76 accessory decals are 1:25th waterslide images doing extra duty here in 1:18th land. Also added has been a scratch built five-panel Wink interior rear view mirror, while mounts for the narrowed front spoiler have been fabricated so that the original ACME rendered version may be left off. The exhaust dumps have been redone in brass tubing as well. Last week I ordered an ACME '70 Autodynamics Challenger which I anticipate modifying in a like manner. Thanks...
  3. Very beautiful - especially the Studebaker. Thanks for sharing... Mike K.
  4. A small further update this...: Missing on the ACME release is any duct work guiding scale air to scale radiators just aft of the front valence. Although very tedious to do from scratch seen below is something that serves the purpose. Additionally, separate dams were fashioned to direct air alternately to the oil cooler as well as the aforementioned radiator matrix. The cut outs seen accommodate the grille which tucks in close, whereas the rearmost ends of the assembly rest solidly upon the radiator support. Done right, no glue is required to hold the assembly in place. The fuzzy photo image shows the mock up, although contrasting this to the painted and installed image, know I'll have to repaint it aluminum to match the reference image seen in the previous post seen above. ...the mock up positioned inside the valence on what I'll call an engineering hack of sorts... ...and set in place, although begging if you will to be repainted aluminum given it shows up well when one examines the Riverside Mission Bell 250 image I've pasted in within the space of my previous submission. Thanks... Mike K.
  5. Kind thanks for the reply and Happy Holidays to everyone... Although worried that I'd wreck an otherwise nice feature of the ACME model in the form of the 'machined lip' Minilite wheels, for the last two races of the 1970 Trans Am season all-white wheel were phased in. Consistent with this knowledge, I opted to repaint my wheels with Tamiya Matt White. Do as I say and not as I do should you go this route; i.e. heat the wheels and tires in very warm water to ensure that the wheels won't scuff the tires - albeit I acted in haste and did everything 'cold'. Nevertheless, the wheel finish is virtually indistinguishable from the stock ACME issue, is resilient enough not to rub off onto the tires proper, and in total is very much in keeping with the late season look. I will at some point add small strips of sheet plastic with tiny lengths of silver duct tape to do wheel weights to lend a further bit of visual interest here. As for the revised wheels, see below: ...now mounted on the model, combined with lower ride height front and rear and still further revised exhaust dump detail, see below: ...given I want to replicate the Riverside D.G. retirement ride per se, it is important to replace the ACME front spoiler with a scratch built model of smaller dimension, paint the same matt black, and add the necessary Dzus fasteners (four then). Here would be D. Gurney pursued by Swede Savage and Mark Donohue at Riverside bearing a damaged spoiler evidencing the otherwise absent fasteners: ...constructed out of sheet plastic, painted and overlaid onto the standard ACME air dam just for reference purposes at this time, here sits the new air dam. A Fred Cady 1:25th '70 Trans Am AAR 'Cuda waterslide sheet was used for the 'Plymouth' decal which would actually be the fender top decal resited and reemployed here as a 1:18th spoiler decal. Do not use clear atop the Fred Cady decal for the decal will effectively dissolve; i.e. I had to do this twice over. Dzus fasteners are 1:25th photoetched items held in place with Tamiya clear lacquer with the individual fasteners positioned with the use of a toothpick with a bit of petroleum jelly/lip balm dabbed on the end. I suppose they could be larger, but who knows where to source 1:18th Dzus fasteners?: ...as noted above, the installation seen is temporary. I'll use a spare front valence which I'll paint and build spoiler mounts upon to ensure that I can simply switch out new for old without harming the stock ACME assembly. This way the modification will be guilt-free with the original serving as a spare to slip onto a different car if need be. Whoops! - seems that the inside Dzus fasteners were sited a bit low relative to my reference photo. I'll have to redo things, but doing such isn't a killer if you will. Kind thanks for your reviewing this update... Mike K.
  6. Greetings, After many months of waiting the 1:18th ACME Hwy. 61 tool-based Dan Gurney race AAR 'Cuda has arrived, and hence I can calmly go about the business of choosing the best bits and pieces to work up the best E-body road racing replicas I might. The ACME model is mostly an agreeable compromise given they had to work with a stock bodyshell and chassis casting, while sometimes it's good to take on a limited project where one is simply introducing mild revisions of this and that versus scratch building so very much. Below will be seen a few images of a revised Gurney release with encouragement of you to try the same. Alterations of note are as follows: Larger headlamp fill panels have been fabricated from sheet plastic and painted Tamiya TS-49 Bright Red to better replicate the appearance of Gurney's return to driving duty at Kent and Riverside '70. The tail panel has been replaced with a painted example less dayglo stripes - see my 'dry' paint fixture work up for the purpose. A slightly larger fuel fill pipe as well as a larger Hwy. 61 '70 340 Dart fuel cap was added at this time as well. Tamiya TS-55 Dark Blue dusted with TS-65 Pearl Clear works really well here. The 'PLYMOUTH' identification in the grille has been painted out. Correct for some races, but not for Kent or Riverside then... The jack point highlight on the rocker panels has been removed and replaced with red R/C vinyl tape which was a bit taller and happily vibrant in color. The door handles have received a Testor's Model Master magnesium wash versus the as-delivered black wash. The exhaust dumps have been trimmed, the ends worked over with a Dremel Moto-tool to appear oval and a bit dipped, and finally painted flat black. The A-pillar air duct hardware has been touched in with silver paint. A cast resin fuel cell housing has been added underneath and back. The 'DAN GURNEY' identification above the side numerals has been removed and shifted forward for use of old Fred Cady waterslides which seemed about the same size. Specific to the Riverside Mission Bell 250 appearance, a BELL helmets decal has been added to either side atop the 'stack' of accessory decals seen on the rear quarter panel well forward. A useless cast-in turn signal indicator stalk was cut off and discarded. Missing the stock front turn signal lenses typically inset into the grille on the standard Hwy. 61 'Cuda releases, a pair of the lenses were found and painted semigloss black to represent fill panels prior to being fitted. ...the aforementioned tail panel masking fixture. The lock cylinder has been mostly ground away, although I was reluctant to try to finish it smooth for fear of wrecking the whole assembly for being too greedy. I wish I'd primed the license plate recess fill panel before spraying, but otherwise a reasonably sound approach to take. Clay was used to prevent paint bleed through to the lenses left in place along the back side of what is seen... ...painted, although coverage not the best around the edges of the insert. Oh well... ...with the strange upturned exhaust dumps still unmodified here, nevertheless the fuel cell housing looks quite good hanging down just so. Tamiya AS-16 Light Gray (USAF) isn't a perfect match but will have to do... ...with most everything articulated above in place. Note the rocker 'flashes', the cut exhaust tips, and the headlamp fill panels as described. ...the view from the back, with the body-color tail panel in place and the small BELL helmets decal add shown to good effect. More little things to come, while hopefully the other E-body projects can pick up steam for the availability of scattered new tool stuff. Thanks for reviewing this update... Mike K.
  7. Greetings, Have regrettably sold two examples I had before, I'm searching for a Model Car World transkit that witnessed MCW basically modifying the old Jo-Han 1970 Rebel Machine body to approximate the 'Bullfighter' '72/'73 two-door styling for featuring a revised front clip. Body and front grille/bumper assembly needed, all else not strictly required. MCW has dropped the product from their range, hence I'm querying here. Kind thanks for reviewing this item request. Swede70/Mike K.
  8. A small update then... This would be the second shell returned from the media blaster and outfitted with the thinned flares seen above. The dimensions between the flares and the body shell cutouts up front are a bit tighter, while the rocker panel inserts stand to be blended in with greater care soon. Thanks... Mike K.
  9. I'll do my best to disregard the teasing tone of the message left above. At some point people post so many messages that they claim ownership of the whole experience of the board, and I suppose if I don't adjust my presentation to suit whatever might be their expectations and standards, then I'm a target. Complaint lodged, complaint ignored. Mike K.
  10. BMW 2002 tii

    Looks wonderful - I had a '74 2002 and am greatly enamored with your build. Hope the 'carpet monster' yields up that which she has taken... Mike K.
  11. Greetings and thanks for the kind feedback... Although unpleasantly laborious, a new shell with new flares has largely been worked up - kind thanks to ibj40/Jim F. for all the valued assistance and support (i.e. I'm still using up what I have!). Other modest things to report as well: ...this would be an attempt at door roundels w/black outline border plus door driver identification (Ariel font, 14 size if I accurately recall). Believe or not, I just used a black Sharpie pen and a stencil set to get the outline, although it's best to carefully seal such with the decal bonder in a can as illustrated; i.e. apply the stuff too heavily and the marker runs. I haven't determined how to best cut the images out cleanly, whereas I'm thinking of applying different varieties of Tamiya white to insure that the resulting roundels are as vibrant as they can be prior to application onto the work much like any other waterslide decal. ...this would be the stuff of my flares in a particularly raw state. Some time ago I began upon a 1:18th scale Hwy. 61-based 1970 Autodynamics Trans Am Dodge Challenger, and had the foresight to copy what I'd worked up for the use of urethane molds to backstop my efforts. The copies seen above look a bit pudgy, although I've found it easier to remove material to arrive at a proper shape versus adding material later and struggling thus. ...much thinned here, and quite substantially recontoured and reshaped. If only the movement of your mouse reflected how much time was spent to proceed from point A to point B! ...ignore the '68 Daytona 24HR image for the front flares aren't really in the final configuration! Here is seen the heavily reworked front flares in position within filed cutouts on the body proper. Note how the fender opening contour blends easily into the flares both towards the front and terminating towards the end of flare as it blends back into the fender. And yes, the front valence has been cut out entirely - a nasty business given I did this by hand with a simple razor saw over two days. Lastly, the clumsily rendered B-pillars and associated cast-in weather sealing have been filed off complete, faintly noticeable for the clean finish of the surfaces just below the roof edges as seen here. ...the flares in place with white craft glue only. Seeking a risk-free paint test platform, the reader will notice the otherwise odd hood black out treatment as well as the stripework witnessed across the top of the vehicle. The normal rice paper Tamiya masking tape is great stuff, although I have reservations about the use of the fineline tape that they also produce that didn't quite seal as well. Notice too the removal of the raised rear side indicator detail on either side, later to be partially puttied in so that the same will appear as a soft, filled and reflector-shaped indentation on the panel work ...and finally viewed across the top. The hood roundel represents another test of material and will soon vanish as the shell is media blasted. Some room for adjustment is had for the flares can be adjusted in and out for either swinging in or out from the top prior to contour matching the outer lip to the fender surfaces. And finally, I may drill out windshield wiper mount holes for they seem to be missing on later Greenlight Trans Am releases. Thanks for examining this most recent update. Mike K.
  12. A very effective mod. there - surely a great improvement. Thank you for sharing your techniques and sources too. Mike K.
  13. ...modest updates to report, although to this point little has been done underhood. ...the front bumperettes have been returned by the vacuum plater, after first being sanded to remove mold lines as well as the front license plate. Noticeable, though surely difficult to discern, the exterior door handle has been flooded with body color paint, while old Detail Master photo etched door lock cylinders have been added to each raised 'lock' assembly. Matter appear less toy-like in sum... ...shorn of unattractive locating pins and mold lines, the delicate chromed exhaust tips have here been reset. ...held in reserve at this point, seen are a pair of cast resin 1:18th ERTL Collectibles 1967 Impala SS 427 valve covers in combination with a 1:18th Hwy. 61 1969 Camaro COPO air cleaner lid, also cast in resin and subsequently vacuum plated. I'll likely add '396' identification to the lid from an old Fred Cady 1:25th sheet, all the more so given that the air cleaner art always struck me as a bit large for 1:25th use anyhow. Thanks for reviewing this most recent update... Mike K.
  14. ...more of the same, with revised wheels employing Pegasus aluminum sleeves - albeit not the 'stepped' variety which has been discontinued by the manufacturer. The 'stepped sleeve' product afforded a better contour at the edge of the rim lip, but alas, one can't have everything available in perpetuity. If you should have trouble with the www.pegasushobbies.com website, know that it has been superseded by www.pegasushobbies.net which will allow online ordering of product. My choice of color still appears a bit too strong, hence pondering the revision of another shell plus flares given that stripping lacquer would also entail ruining what delicate resin and putty work went into capturing what is seen below. At the very least I wouldn't be tossing away the proverbial 'bird in hand' if I started anew independent of that which I've worked up. Thanks for reviewing this post... Mike K.
  15. Hello again, After sanding down the finish errors present along the top surfaces of the model, I resprayed the work in a slightly lighter Tamiya lacquer aerosol as seen here. Noticed is a ride height/track mock up using standard GMP ARE Torque Thrust wheels which will be replaced with wheels almost identical to those used on the later-season blue #2 Mustang. If it might help others, included below is a scan of the '68 Shelby Racing Co. decal that appears mostly as a blur either on the quarter panel of the cars early season, or positioned on the C-pillar when the cars were painted yellow. Kind thanks to Phil Jacobs for sourcing this rare artwork. Pressing ahead again then... Mike K.