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Everything posted by swede70

  1. Greetings, All the surface panel work less maybe the deck lid would be different, plus bumpers, grilles, etc., hence I myself wouldn't attempt it. The ERTL 1:18th '68-'69 would be a better basis for such given the '70 styling updates weren't wholly transformative. With a small assortment of junkyard ERTL AMX's, some experimentation could be done, although for careful disassembly and mulling of the qualities of the Replicarz '71-'72 Javelin/AMX release, I don't sense much utility of a mash of the former with the latter. I rather extend and flesh out the missing length of the ERTL AMX than bother with the Replicarz effort in full truth. Maybe harboring a minority view, the Replicarz Javelins strike me as generally well-tooled, although deeply flattered for being dazzlingly finished; i.e. the surface gloss helps one overlook otherwise so-so aspects of most other aspects of the tool. There is no raised chrome trim around the front and rear 'glass', surrounded as it is by photo-etched overlays, the 'glass' is just pliable clear sheet, while the chassis plate has little to recommend. Even the wheels and tires are a slight cheat, given some fudging is in evidence for using different diameter wheels front and rear to emphasize an aggressive look that shouldn't have been worked up in such a fashion. I'd thought for my money that I'd have a host of new assemblies to copy and spread across my other 1:18th scale Trans-Am builds, but in point of fact this hope just didn't materialize; i.e. I'm still clinging to my mostly GMP Trans-Am Camaro-sourced clones to flesh out my conversions. In sum, I'd just give the situation three or four more years, anticipating that Replicarz or TSM might take up the challenge given all the companies seem to be running out of intriguing topics to do. Mark Donohue interest is strong, while as I write this a 1:18th sealed resin Technomodel '71 McLaren F1 Penske Racing Canadian GP release (third place) just hit the shelves consistent with expanding collections so-themed. Mike K./Swede 70
  2. Greetings... Here some AutoART interior parts have been introduced onto the Tonka/Polistil interior casting. I have most of the AA interior less door panels, while for first trying to hack and slash the entire AA interior tub to fit the T/P chassis and body, finally I decided just to steal select subassemblies to the T/P interior and avoid most of the fit issues. Flocking to come, other assemblies to be stolen soon. The dash board, the interior rear view mirror, the steering wheel plus column, and finally, the shifter and controls surrounding it make up the visible upgrades. Thanks... Not terrible - while the really cheap appearance the total assembly had before is mostly eradicated. The pedal assembly, safety belts plus flocking are to come. Nice seats, with carefully marked controls on each side and textured paint for the inserts as-delivered. Quality stuff, while a lot of the Tonka/Polistil dash mount structure was recycled to support the new AA dash assembly, saving time versus scratch building some other solution. ...and just proving (to myself largely) that it'll all fit. I'm unsure about clearance between the interior door panels (not present here) and the seats, although this was enough work for a day. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70
  3. Greetings... This would be the second shell refinished with slightly cleaner body prep even if the paint finish seems no different. No more lumpy areas along the engine cover at it transitions onto the wing, no gouges to report for being too aggressive with a file, and lighter paint application overall. No - I'm not sure if all the effort was worth it! A spare set of wheels were reshaped a bit to soften their appearance along the outer edge of each, while a Tamiya Bare Metal Silver was used on the rims rather than Tamiya Mica Silver which had been applied to the body. The contrast between the two shades of silver is minute, but it does mix up things a bit. Vinylex was used on the rock hard tires, although it does seem to help. Happily the sidewall profile doesn't suggest a rock bottom purchase price, redeeming matters somewhat. It looks a bit better, while an AutoART spares order will afford a new dash , console and seat assemblies I intend to mate to the more or less standard Tonka/Polistil interior shell so that the dimensions of what is worked up won't offer up any surprises when assembled. Just to mesh with the new interior parts, I'll have to go with a gray interior versus the intended burgundy. Thanks... The side mirror is off, either to be refinished or replaced in part with an AutoART item. Side repeaters will be replaced with AA parts and will register life soon... Hardly looking different, although some careful sanding has the wheel discs looking a bit cleaner too... I'd more or less wrecked the previous shell for dropping it in a way that dented the rear cooling duct ribs as seen here intact on shell number two. At least the putty work on the back is cleaner on this second effort, the rear fascia appearing smoother for a lighter touch in evidence. Sorry these images aren't well illuminated. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70
  4. Greetings and thanks for the kind notice... No '68-'70 1:18th scale diecast or resin cast American Motors Javelins exists to date, nor or any in the developmental pipeline to the best of my knowledge. I suspect 1:43rd Spark SCCA Trans-Am releases and demand for the same influence what might be availed to the public as 1:18th Replicarz releases, although no indication is given that anything is strictly afoot. A Replicarz 1:18th '70 Chaparral Camaro has been announced, although it could be a year or more before we see such. That the '70 styling facelift was but a one-year offering, and further, that only the Fyr Fyter fire extinguisher-sponsored/Ted Roberts-driven independent entry is all that could be done besides the '70 Penske cars, this would limit how costs for such an effort might be amortized. The NASCAR GT efforts run in '70 would likely be judged too obscure to model, hence blunting hopes in that direction. I suspect we'll see Replicarz stock releases based upon the '71 shell they've done for their SCCA Trans-Am release, although given the rather bulbous flares needed on the '70 racer, I doubt any firm would be tempted to sell a stock release based upon something obviously modified to accommodate racing rubber. Unless someone thoroughly scratch built all that might be required off of an ERTL 1:18 '68-'69 AMX base, much more time will pass before anything so-themed will be afforded to the market. It's possible that BoS/Best of Show will step up to the topic in sealed resin at some point, although I'd expect a stock release from them if they so chose. Here's hoping someone or some firm will have pity on us! - Oh - and only if it matters, in period Jo-Han did the subject to death in 1:24th (so it's said) scale, with other years and other aftermarket options possible with certain application. I half-wonder if the legacy of old Jo-Han releases has depressed interest amongst 1:18th scale firms to tackle the topic given the relative paucity of offerings availed thus far. Reproduced below is a link to my sprawling Ronnie Kaplan Engineering '68-'69 Trans-Am Javelin thread, with passing reference to a Jo-Han based '70 Penske Javelin build also taking shape. A little while back I picked up two Jimmy Flintstone flared '70 body shells (one for my '69 RKE/JRT project), hence another '70-season model will take form, likely as an early-season Peter Revson ride given no one would likely bother otherwise. For Peter it was a grueling and decidedly unsatisfying experience, while now he'll be memorialized in scale by golly and by gum. I just picked up a spare '70 bare interior shell and race (as in sans cast-in fuel tank and exhaust) chassis, hence it's percolating out of sight right at present. Mike K./Swede70
  5. Definitely a smooth look and a nice rendition of the topic. Thanks for sharing... Mike K./Swede70
  6. Thanks for the interest... Seen are the wheel disc overlays quickly painted and applied to the first set of wheels. Not terrible... Mike K./Swede70
  7. That's an entire morning's worth of game show grand prize giveaways there; i.e. You've just won a BRAND NEW CAR! Indeed, some thought went into those and surely they'd respond well to an intervention consistent with getting a bit more out of them. Thanks for sharing... Mike K./Swede70
  8. Greetings, Some blending around the wing and engine cover to suggest a unified structure (especially underneath and through the pocket so to speak), while the wheel disc overlays are new. Each overlay is simply a section of sheet plastic shaped to suit. I should be able to soften the edges of the outer rim perimeter to complete the look, although at present this second set of wheels hasn't been modified so much. Know that no vanilla wafers were hurt in the making of these rims! Mike K./Swede70
  9. Greetings, Photoetched 1:18th scripts aren't widely available, although some exist with most tailored to exotic topics versus domestic fare. Type in 'Photo etched 1:18' into eBay or other search engines to reveal what might be had (I remember seeing a Mustang-themed sheet or two). It's a bit of a surprise that more hasn't been available to date, while with prices of diecast and resin cast topics ever on the increase and more people trying their hand at modifying older tools to come up with what they desire, I suspect the availability of suitable scripts will improve consistent with affording potential purchasers something to ponder. Just in passing, sometimes I'll review but also collect like-themed 1:24th and 1:25th photo etched sheets searching for material that, for creative application, might be recycled and used in alternative ways in 1:18th. If one collects 1:18th Hwy. 61 'Cudas, some of the older 1:24th scale Monogram '71 Hemi 'Cuda photo etched material still lingering on the market can offer up possibilities in terms of interior door scripts, dashboard scripts, etc. It also isn't unheard of to find that some photo-etched renderings of this and that are revealed to be oversized - a reality that can favor the 1:18th enthusiast. Sometimes enthusiasts will communicate with those who have created artwork designed for more mainstream plastic kits in 1:25th scale and inquire as to whether waterslide decals might be blown up to suit 1:18th topics, while others either seek out or avail others custom decal work. It takes a bit of application to reveal who specializes in what, in addition to revealing who is most flexible and receptive to feedback and guidance consistent with securing the best service. Know too that Fred Cady Decals did a few and admittedly rare 1:18th sheets, while another firm by the name of Firebird Designs is also worth seeking out on the musclecar front. No Nova materials that I can recall, although some Camaro, BOSS Mustang and Chrysler E-body stuff can be had. Do know that the 1:18th modification scene is actually quite robust and isn't strictly limited to exotics, Sports and GT, or the tuner scene just to suggest a few facets of what is a diverse hobby. Most of the activity that exists may be found for review of those select Facebook Groups that cater to such creative effort. 1:18th Scale Junkies as well as 1:18 Diecast Modifiers (the names are approximate here) are the major domestic groups, although others exist reflecting more specialized focus amongst members so-affiliated. As spares can be expensive, more than a few people have taken it upon themselves to either afford services or essentially replicate services otherwise common across the 1:25th plastic kit scene, while techniques, materials used, tool recommended as well as guidance in relation to disassembly and reassembly are just part of the territory that stands to be discovered. Good luck! Mike K./Swede70
  10. Very nice - thanks for sharing. Mike K./Swede70
  11. Thanks for the comments and interest... Earlier I'd inflicted damage on shell #1 for dropping it on a table. I didn't immediately pick up on what had absorbed the blow, but soon discovered that the delicate ribs on one of corner vents had been blunted by the impact and were essentially beyond repair. Given this development, the second shell became more attractive as a means to recoup things. My examples were both delivered in white, hence a reversion to the original hue is picked up below. Since I have a spare shell, I've decided to essentially redo work quickly performed before exercising greater care for less use of filler and primer, color sanding the finish, and generally being more observant in relation to quality overall. Earlier today I used a better 1:1 body filler to blend the rear wing to the engine cover, including those portions beneath the wing even as I'd avoided the labor implied before. Since most everything else either is a press-in fit or screws on to the Polistil tool, everything else will be recycled from effort #1 without much ado. I think I'll try to thin the side window frame openings this go-round as they really stand out. Here I've not yet touched them. For some careful application, the front fascia is a bit cleaner and better shaped as contrasted to before. The corners where the fascia blends into the slab sides of each fender are a challenge to correct. Additionally, AutoARTspares.com has reopened their website, while an order was placed to collect stray AA 959 parts of far better quality to sprinkle across this project. Said parts include a set of side indicator/repeaters, an interior less door panels, plus a dash and steering wheel, etc. If not to supplement a build such as this, I doubt there would strictly be demand for the little loose assemblies. I hope something good will come of it, while within limits it can be fun to make something of little. Always suffering from scale model 'mission creep' it seems. Thanks again for following along... Mike K./Swede70
  12. Looking nice - thanks for sharing... Mike K./Swede70
  13. Greetings... About the crudest 1:18th Porsche 959 diecast model in existence this - but also about the only option that might be described as affordable. Motorbox/Exoto, Minichamps as well as the rarified AutoART iterations are the (mostly pricey) alternate paths forward. The model seen here was a freebie, while I'm struggling not to spend so much on materials as to render the effort pointless. The photo reference captures the topic in pre-production form with flush cover wheels, while as a side benefit, at least the Tonka/Polistil model has these on offer even if the surface profile is both literally and metaphorically flat. The body wasn't wholly stripped, although those mold lines that could be sanded out were. This isn't a major rehab, hence some finer points were missed in terms of correcting irregularities present across the shell. At least the window seals look clean enough, while an effort to putty and blend the separate rear wing to the engine cover to suggest a unitary assembly largely succeeded. The tail light panel insert paint effort yielded nice results in particular even if I couldn't do much about the reversing lamps. The latter were done with white paint over the rudimentary amber-tinted plastic part visible on the spare body seen to the right in the image below. A length of party favor/table center piece-sourced foil brightens up the center section of the insert installation, suggesting a reflective surface situated behind it. The plastic glass front screen has had it's black border painted, while the entire glass insert was painted Tamiya Smoke translucent black to lend it a tint of sorts. Seen forward is a thin sheet of pliable plastic used to come up with a traceable pattern for the inside of the front screen prior to applying tape, and finally, cutting such for a mask. The interior is not yet complete, although most surfaces have been painted SEM Color Coat burgundy and appears nice for being subdued and controlled. I've never flocked an interior before, hence this will be new ground for me. As mentioned, the wheels really aren't right for surface profile, although they did respond nicely to a black wash and display better than I thought they would. The tire sidewalls are actually o.k., hence the visuals aren't all that bad. Note that the interior is largely missing, hence the void inside is explainable thus. A Porsche crest decal sheet was ordered from France and ought to arrive soon, while sanding down the edges of the headlamp bucket/inserts helped clean up the appearance of the front quite a bit. It's a fair 'twenty footer' then... Kind thanks for your review of this project... Mike K./Swede70
  14. No trouble Charles... The rear flares need to be rebuilt along the bottom front given I messed up the profile at bit; i.e. the shape is a bit stranger still in point of fact. Mostly I'm finishing up major fabrication work across a few like-themed projects while I set about equipping myself to apply paint for an airbrush/ventilation setup in fairly tight quarters. It seems I work in two directions; i.e. overhauling prepainted diecast topics and seeing such limited work to the end, or conversely, taking on something like this which seemingly has no end for having everything rethought. The model seen is the old 1:18th ERTL '70-'73 Firebird Trans Am, while others might go with the newer Welly '72 Trans Am tool. The engine is a Lane Pontiac 400 unit lifted from the recent ACME '69 Daytona 24HR class-winning '68 Titus Godsall Firebird release - which is being overhauled too with a GMP small block engine, a scratch built roll cage and detail changes across the work. The original thread ties into a '64 Tempest/'71-season Gray Ghost Herb Adams/Bob Tullius thread which I'll try to insert below. It'll show the pair of Gray Ghost projects (one in 1:25th scale resin), as well as the pair of Firebird projects consistent with relating what was attempted and how matters are going. I'm deathly slow, although if some progress is clocked here and there I'm typically at peace with myself. Thanks for your interest... http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/139343-twin-herb-adams-71-scca-trans-am-64-tempest-gray-ghost-projects/?tab=comments#comment-2037077 Mike K./Swede70
  15. Greetings, Long ago I wiped out the sole GMP '67-season Penske Donohue Trans-Am Camaro release in my possession for an optimistic effort to redo the stripe work in particular. As prices continue to climb for rereleases as contrasted to older issues that evidence paint rash related problems, I wasn't really sure I could get an example back to modify as is my (very slow) thing. Yes - project focus is a continuing challenge for me. Recently I picked up a replacement for about $110 less shipping which seemed the best I could do, while for the very real and much appreciated help of ijb40/Oldtimer, I was very kindly afforded a pair of GMP Geo. Follmer Penske Trans-Am Camaro bodies that proved much better for condition versus the #36 body shell plus assorted panels that I'd begun with this go-round. It helps greatly to have spares, with repeated opportunities to 'swing and miss' greatly influencing what I can achieve. In this instance, I'm aiming to keep things more or less simple... ...seen above is what I've more or less started with in the form of a #36 first issue, while below is the '67 Kent, WA specification I seek to replicate for discreet changes across the 'build'... Just below is the more or less finished shell, comprising the best hood, doors, deck lid and body shell I could work up. Some numeral/roundel decals need to be stacked to brighten them up a bit, but in the main it's nice... Although not looking like huge effort, the drip rail trim was removed and painted over, while all surfaces evidencing gray including the underside of the roof, the door jams and inner door structure and trunk wall were masked and shot all in one go. The headlamps and front turn indicators have been painted Tamiya AS-12 Bare Metal Silver, while the odd chrome trim otherwise present at the base of the rear quarter windows has been removed. As for the interior trim panels themselves, these have been modified to disguise them as Standard trim level '67 issue. The '68-'69 deck lid with the huge fuel inlet/dump has been tossed aside, replaced with a later GMP Street Fighter solid deck lid without retention pins situated forward of the rear spoiler. An oval was cut and carved through the panel, while the paint used to refinish it is Tamiya TS-15 Blue. The 'strapped' rear window was likewise replaced with one absent such (although still needing clips on the edges), while as a means to economy those sections of the stripes which feature a curved outline nearest the base of front and rear glass weren't touched - hence they look as-delivered and clean. Sometimes it's best not to risk too much... Carefully refinished wheels to suggest slightly oxidized magnesium are noticed below, while the rather gray appearing GMP tires have been coated with Vinylex to dark them a bit. A paint mask for the GMP wheels was fashioned some time ago for gluing sections of a plastic model rocket nose cone together as witnessed forward, while to the left an abbreviated front spoiler has been scratch built reflecting prior effort again. The front spoiler has since been refinished body color, while the nose of the body seen actually reflects what was tossed aside for replacement with one of the better Geo Follmer assemblies... While here would be the chassis taking shape, with most of this being paint. Predating Penske Racing's practice of applying light gray paint to most chassis surfaces, here the tomb-like ambiance is unmistakable. The exhaust dumps are fashioned from brass tubing, although mostly it's stock. Goodyear tires (or at least those marked as such) have been swapped in (Firestones are accurate fitment prior to Kent '67), the headers and exhaust dumps are indeed a pale, dusty yellow, while Eastwood 1:1 restoration spray paints were tapped in the form of 'Alumi-Blast' for the transmission case in particular after first masking it with Silly Putty. Thanks for your review of this post... Mike K./Swede70
  16. Greetings Phil, One of the best digital archive finds would be those images captured and intended to accompany a review of the Chaparral Camaro effort during the running of the '70 Lime Rock Schaefer Trans-Am contest appearing within the pages of Sports Car Graphic magazine. Maybe three of these showed up in said publication, but the whole set taken by Dave Friedman can be accessed through the Benson Ford Research Collection. Attached is a link to the relevant race, although for exploring further, other images across the season and across relevant archives can be turned up. Click on the photo to be taken to the collection; i.e. it looks odd, but appreciate the image functions as a link... Just in passing, I'm working on a 1:18th diecast-based iteration of the same topic, hence an information exchange is offered from this quarter should you wish for such. In addition, I have the old Motor Racing Replica News feature so-themed. Nice work! Mike K./Swede70
  17. Thanks again for the invested interest and tale sharing... Here I've trimmed the base of the flares to better meld with the character line that picks up along the bottom side flanks of the second generation Camaro. I hadn't really done all the work necessary to square matters away in this regard, hence further work on view. I can work on these and exert effort to trim away what seems a lot in total, although the result always translates into a very slight improvement at best. Not shatteringly different then - but better! Mounting the individual flares on clay blocks four times over for the purposes of resin casting mold manufacture won't be fun, although I just can't conceive of risking all the work up until now for but a single try when it comes to bonding these permanently to this shell - or another. Generally happy days - albeit slow... Mike K./Swede70
  18. Another response, and hardly definitive at that... Years ago I was drawn in to a feature within and across the pages of Scale Auto Enthusiast whereby a builder by the name of Randy Derr debuted a conversion of the 1:12th scale Revell '69 Camaro Z/28 into a same-year Penske Racing/Mark Donohue Sports Car Club of America Trans-Am sedan racer. The roll cage was hand-fabricated, the flares likewise, the wheels and tires were largely hand-done, while the exterior graphics were also created to suit. To me it was something new and left me entranced given the old SCCA series was about all I cared for. I'd tried but had largely failed to create 1:25th scale replicas of what period racers I'd desired, while the article essentially afforded me permission to renew my efforts based upon the acceptance that I'd simply have to scratch build most everything. Humbling this - but clarifying too. What impressed me at the time was evidence across Derr's project of a strong willingness to devise techniques to solve problems one after other in a manner akin to the thought processes on view within the pages of a favorite book of mine, this being Mark Donohue's racing biography titled The Unfair Advantage. First published in 1975 and written in collaboration with Paul Van Valkenburgh, Donohue's remembrances taught me to think about engineering problems in a way that was both highly deliberative and unusually engaging. In combination with the scale efforts of Randy Derr and his innovative labors, I felt that this was the way forward; i.e. all worries aside, if I was suitably dedicated to the topic embraced, all problems might be solved in time for studied application. Important is was to realize that advances were made at the cost of a great many errors if not embarrassment; i.e. take the lumps, make the progress. On the book front, Mark Donohue's The Unfair Advantage constitutes a quiet and yet insistent lesson on studied application apart and away from the judgement of the crowd. Something works - or it doesn't, and the process needn't rely on the sometimes caustic 'regard' of others. Mark wasn't carved out of conventional he-man racer material, and it's a lesson to make a careful review of this auto racing/race engineering diary of a sort. While he possessed an undergraduate engineering degree from Brown University and was widely hailed as bringing something extra in terms of viewpoint and refinement to road racing circles, any review of this title will reveal someone who started with an almost complete absence of knowledge teamed to an atypical orientation consistent with learning what was needed to excel. In sum, it's very different and certainly illuminating. With regards to other possible titles, do consider collecting books penned by Gerald A. Wingrove, author of a pair of works that include The Complete Car Modeller available in two volumes. It's strictly old-school stuff, but his habits of application are total and are worthy of emulation even in small degree. Pre-internet (to say the least), his commitment literally altered how the hobby was viewed. And just in passing, it might also be worth your time to seek out a copy of Shop Class as Soulcraft by Michael Crawford where a writer hard at work on a Philosophy Ph. D. reconsiders his options and embraces an identity rooted in the restoration of vintage motorcycles. A nonfiction work, the book challenges the reader to reexamine and reappraise what expertise and applied passion constitutes. - What thin professional (or paraprofessional) background I bring to scale models are the habits of application consistent with my having been an academic librarian. In short, I start with slender or no knowledge, although I do have habits that will, after a time, yield results in relation to what is researched and discovered. This goes for unearthing technical aspects of what is being attempted in-scale, and also applies to working up means and methods to secure a result in terms of what is being recreated in miniature. In particular, if I read that 50,000 man hours was required to build a particular 1:1 racer, needless to say I worry less if something isn't magically finished in short time. I care about seeing projects through, but in essence I'm working on my own unspoken schedule that doesn't strictly mate or mesh with what others perceive as right progress. Given I'm not doing contract work, what does it matter? I also work in what others would regard as a goofy scale in disreputable 1:18th diecast, something that sort of designates me as an outlier. This can be both good and bad, but if this habit or proclivity allows me to exist somewhat outside the sharp focus and scrutiny of the contest elite, is this bad? It's also a lesson to look afield and review techniques established and expanded upon across other disciplines; i.e. weathering is better understood and practiced by both military and railroad modelers. Although I just have some basic tools and supplies versus a lathe or milling machine at the ready, I view what results are achieved through the lense of a formula; i.e. what was possible given the sophistication, or rather lack of sophistication of the tools, materials, research and techniques applied to a situation or circumstance? Other things that help in a mild sense is to have duplicates and triplicates of all the parts and assemblies intended to go into a project. Akin to racing, if one isn't breaking parts, one isn't learning. To limit oneself to single copies of this or that delicate part, even at the cost of stretching what might be a thin budget indeed, is to ramp up felt stress when things go wrong - and things most certainly will. In a manner of speaking, a certain degree of waste is expected and would be unnatural not to encounter. For a certain acceptance of this reality, felt pressure subsides... To me scale model work constitutes a surrogate for what I might otherwise have or operate; i.e. a 1:1 vintage race restoration facility or at least the option to call at the shots and make all the judgments consistent with overseeing research, fabrication, fettling and final finish work on topics of personal importance. Greater focus and expertise can be developed for the embrace of a limited number of topics - or even one topic. Not everyone can be an all-rounder or strictly embrace all topics - and why should we? Isn't it more satisfying to look over the shoulder of a specialist engrossed in his or her, indeed, craft? Reviewing the results of years of application and skill refinement evidenced by another shouldn't be viewed as threatening, although boorish behavior experienced in clubs and at contests sadly is a common experience. Some possess the skills and tact to be exemplary ambassadors to the hobby, although a fair many simply fall down in this regard. Even if precious few of my efforts see completion, some satisfaction is gleaned from establishing and extending contacts amongst and across the 1:1 vintage racing community. I wouldn't project as a top-flight model car person in relation to technique or skill, although the embrace of a particular race series and period and expanding awareness of both the vintage scene and techniques to work up what is necessary in-scale, I'm good enough. People know that I respect the topic, and that contributions made and constructive criticism proffered won't go to waste. Maybe it's enough... Does all this equate to craft? Of this I'm not certain. I do know that things improved a bit for me when not really knowing how to do something in terms of technique wasn't perceived as some unbridgeable barrier. Sharper topic focus for specialization helped, collecting ever larger stacks of research material helped. Networking and sharing builds across threads to communicate enthusiasm and solicit feedback helps. Affording reasoned advice and not tearing the work of others to bits is only good sense. Working to a personal standard to achieve a personal best is advised, while nothing prevents us from selling or moving on what disappoints. Often a reconstituted collection of just a few cherished models will be better loved as contrasted to having mass less quality. Make whatever topic you embrace your own, accept the amount of work that challenge constitutes, and labor to never less then generous to others. Good luck! Mike K./Swede70
  19. Greetings, Not much to see perhaps, but further shaping and mass reduction of the '70 T/G Pontiac Firebird Trans Am Trans-Am (!) rear flares consistent with wrapping them up. Maybe some material will be added forward of the wheel arch opening along the bottom, but in the main I'm pleased. Filing out the now too-narrow wheel arch opening (see towards front behind the body of the flare) won't be great fun given the delicacy and weakness of the rocker panels beneath. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70
  20. Greetings, Sometimes when I cast stuff for myself, I'll go back and make a short pour into my mold or molds to effectively create a base. Some scrubbing of residual filter element is always necessary, although it's less work than sanding off the entire filter from a clone to mate to the bottom. If I was ordering parts from a resin firm and was insistent upon having the base detail, I'd first inspect any photo afforded to determine if a certain ledge was in evidence along the bottom, and if not, I'd just order two examples trusting I'd have to do it myself. Oh, and while tedious to handle and work up, sometimes I'll reach for a stencil set and trace a pattern onto sheet plastic to create little wafers suitable for use as headlamp fill panels, which just as well might serve as air cleaner bases trusting the shape is round. Good luck... Mike K./Swede70
  21. I just took delivery of an example of their Meyers Manx dune buggy in 1:18th. Maybe slightly less in quality versus something like a Norev, although far from hateful. Some finish choices and slightly underwhelming plastic 'glass' detract from an impression of quality, but at the price point these are good. All I remember of Solido from days of old was their extensive 1:43 diecast range and far less common and very French 1:18th scale efforts, typically of middling quality. It seems the new efforts simply share the name of what came before. Certainly the company seems to be coming on in relation to affording a fairly wide range of interesting topics and/or models that haven't been available for some time from other companies and that have commanded a price premium for long. In particular, if one has an interest in early BMW M3's and isn't willing to spend $100 plus to secure a sealed Ottomobile rendition or more still for past iterations by UT, Minichamps or AutoART, there isn't anything strictly comparable. Interesting to note that these aren't produced in China, but rather are offshored to new production facilities in Bangladesh. I imagine George Harrison would approve... Mike K./Swede70
  22. Thanks for the kind comments and interest... About as modest as upgrades come, here I've added Goodyear Power Cushion Blue Dot sidewall 'dots' with paint applied for careful use of a length of small diameter plastic rod. The two-ply nylon tires were a feature of some Shelby American products of the period, as well as early Formula S Barracudas. Look close and one can make out the fire bottle installation fitted atop the fiberglass fill panel fitted in lieu of a rear seat. Thanks again... Mike K./Swede70
  23. Handsome subject, nice and subdued presentation with the two-tone paint and quality finish. Thanks for sharing... Mike K./Swede70
  24. Greetings, Requiring some scrubbing and cleaning to look reasoned, this is a 1:20th scale Revell Creative Masters '65 Shelby GT350 that was picked up for $39.95 via eBay and having arrived in my hands the day this was posted. Both wipers were intact, the delicate radio antenna never installed and present within a bag, beat up but complete original packaging, etc. Odd scale, some paint rash along the flanks, but still one of the more honest representations of a topic that is often done poorly. Crammed inside a new low-rent 1:25th scale AMT plastic display case, it just fits complete with the aforementioned radio antenna insert. I might add the sidewall Goodyear Blue Dots to add some discreet visual interest, but in the main I'm happy with the model looking nice in proximity to a 1:25th Wix Cobra 427 S/C purchased some time ago. No great desire for their Cobra or Ford GT Gulf Mirage releases at present - I'm pleased with this low cost option just as-is. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70
  25. These are neat models and quite convincing. They had the 1:24th diecast Pro Stock scene entirely to themselves and I'm surprised they didn't last longer than they did. Thanks for sharing... Mike K./Swede70
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