The Report function of the forum works well. If you see someone acting up, acting out, or just being an okole, use the Report function. It works! I have it set up so it not only sends me an email, but that email is then marked with a flag, and get's put to the top of my email list. I will try to access/look at the report/topic as soon as possible, but remember, I'm on a six hour time delay, and other mods not only have a life, but a real job as well. k den
I will check and see if he has an H-61. You can google image it and be amazed.
And when I get through with the Autocar, aptly named Black and Shiny, it will be a mirror image of the real thing. I plan on a lot of brass (hood, radiator shell, bumpers and all chrome work in brass first then I will plate it). It will be the last full detail for me as a way to end that part of my building and go back to what I love and to what takes less time, OOB.
I have so much to get to and enjoy all avenues that the full detail takes up too much time. I have 3 left, 2 started and then Black and Shiny.
I will post it when I start it.
Probably another 1500+ hour project, but worth it.
He says that everywhere he goes in that truck ( and he GOES in that truck, went from Ohio to CA doing about 110 bobtailing) that people are in awe of it and I know the model would be the same way. I don't have any full shots of it, because I needed the detail. I have some in print, but the digital ones are all detail.
It is by far, my favorite classic I have every seen. I can't wait to do it justice.
You are welcome and thanks for the compliments.
And don't feel bad, I am jealous of him too. He has about everything I would own if I had the time, space and money to do so. His Autocar is one that I plan on a full detail build much like the over the top one I did on that crazy Peterbilt. I have over 500 photos of that Autocar and most are on my photobucket site below.
I'll do a sample for you if you like at no charge to you except shipping to my house, and I will pay shipping back to you.. Send me one or two or your molds that you would like parts for (not car bodies, but say calipers, carbs, rims....something along those lines). I will pressure cast Task 9 in them and send the mold and the parts back to you. Then you cast a few with the same molds you sent me using your resin. Remove your parts, and take my parts and prime and paint them and tell me which one you think is A) the better looking part and took less time to prep before final stage. I take my parts from the molds, wash in bleach white, prime, paint and put on the model. There is no prep phase as I have no imperfections in the parts. Sometimes I skip the bleach and have had no problems. I will send you some calipers I just did and you can look at them and prime them the way they are because I have not washed them and can see for yourself.
It's a free test for you to see what the difference in a pressurized QUALITY resin and a non pressurized one.
You can PM me and I'll send you all the address info.
I can even do an unpressurized Task 9 batch to show you why I pressurize. The bubbles are unbelievable with the chemical reaction of the two liquids. Not to mention the heat that is formed.
Not sure of the mold material you are using, but I use a product from Silicones Inc out of NC and it's GI 1110. It is so flexible that I can turn my molds inside out and still have a good mold. Now, if I am doing production work, it might be a different story. You are probably trying for at least 50 pulls a mold and I'm not sure if I have ever done that many and if the 1110 would work. Most use the 1100, but I spoke to a tech there and he recommended the 1110 for the flexibility over the 1100. If you call them, talk to Nancy, she is very sweet and helpful with one of the most beautiful southern voices.
I know their product has been OUTSTANDING for me and it picks up finger prints on the masters, if you are not careful. The detail is amazing. I do vacuum the rubber and pressure the resin.
You are right. I mis-read your post, sorry. I thought you said there is a resin that does not foam and needs no pressure. You are saying that you can get results without pressure. Sorry about that.
I will say, that when you start doing 2 piece molds, car bodies and bigger pieces, you will need pressure. And when you see the difference, you will not go back to room "standard barometric" pressure. The parts I make are as smooth as molded injected plastic. I ensure that my master is ABSOLUTELY perfect, to the best of my ability, and all my off spring are the same way. I do not use mold release, but use baby powder lightly dusted in the mold. I use mold release only when making a two part rubber mold so the two halves will go together and separate when it's time to take out the master and start pouring resin. It is used only where the rubber touches the rubber for the two halves and never in the area where resin will be poured.
The Task9 is made by Smooth On and I have only found one problem with it. It is translucent, so your offspring are hard to tell how detailed they are, because of the translucent state of the part. You never leave parts in raw resin form, so as soon as you prime it, it looks like identical to the master (because it is). It's just hard to tell when you de-mold it because of it's translucent state.
The pro's you ask?
I can tap and die the resin.
I can throw my car bodies on the ground and they DO NOT break (yes, I know you don't go around throwing car bodies, but have you dropped one before?)
The tensile strength is about 7 times greater than the normal stuff (the Smooth On 320 which is what a lot of people use)
It's one of the toughest, hardest resins I have worked with and I love it. But everybody is different. My friends that cast has switched and love it but that is not saying you will like it. It does require pressure, but produces incredible results.
It's the same price (with in a few dollars) of the other stuff (like the 320).
Everybody has their techniques. That is how I have obtained mine. I take advice from others and form my own. (and then do a two piece mold....LOL)
These are just mine.
They also make an incredible clear that is UV stable and which can be tinted any color you desire. I use their tints, in future, to give my windshields a very subtle, but accurate color for the safety lamination. I use green for the older vehicles, and a blue/grey for newer ones. If you were not told it was there, you might not see it. But if you look across the vehicle, from left to right, while looking though the front windshield, you will see it. When I point it out, most people are surprised.
But, that is how the glass is on older (and newer) cars.
Don't we have age limits or something.....Just how old IS that guy? Looks like he may need glasses or a back brace so he can see the models!!!!
Well said Danno. I thought the same thing when he asked what we thought of his display. The rack is too heavy (blocking most of the underside....which is why it was elevated...right?) and it is contrasting in a color so close to the car, it's nerve racking to the eyes. I think you gave him great advice.
And I would expect nothing less.........Now, to get that senior citizen out of my mind........what's that therapy number again?
I agree with you Skip.
You have to sell your model and this is how I normally do it. I set a small note, that I have typed up (and laminated to keep it from curling up or blowing away and I keep with the model in it's case when I travel and store it so I don't lose it) and it is very small and includes 6 simple areas...here is an example:
1947 Ford COE Street Rod
Kit - Resin cab, most of the rest is scratch built
Body Mods - Extended the width of the front fenders to match the
running boards to the rear wheels. Reworked the trim
pieces and removed the warp, then recast entire cab
Scratch Built Items - Entire rear bed, floor, tailgate, fenders, frame rails,
engine cover & top rails, and running boards all from
plastic. Rear fender was made from plastic then cast.
The floor in back is plastic painted to look like wood.
Machined Items - Headlight bezels (and buckets, then cast in resin),
taillights, grab handles, mirror holders, mirrors,
lower hood handles and bases, distributor & solenoid
exhaust tips, base and bracket for antenna which is .005,
.010, & .015 telescoping stainless steel
Paint & Decals- Tamiya white primer, Metallic blue (from Mark Jones),
Tamiya Racing white and PPG Clear & Tamiya clear. The red
stripe is red decal paper trimmed to fit.
The above is in a format where the Item is on the left and the paragraph is on the right. Although it did not show up this way, the paragraph and all words should be like this:
Machined Items- kkkkkkkkkkkk
and then the following sentence would start below the first "k", not underneath the words "Machined Items", but I can't get this board to work correctly for me. This sets the item off by itself so the user can find what they want. I make these small (4in wide and 2 inch tall or not more than 4x5 in the case of the one above, it's longer than most) and in small print. If they want to read it they will. If they don't read it, I'm not taking up a bunch of space and I don't have to write the stuff ever again at every show I go it....it's done.
And I find that big books and lots of writing go to waste, as 85% of most don't read it and 100% of IPMS judges, as it looks like from this thread.
here you go. I will admit that this is over the top and the most elaborate set up I have ever used. However, it was an over the top build with 1500+ hours, so I felt it deserved it. If you look at the first photo carefully, you will see a screen below it. I made a 5 minute DVD showcasing some of the raw parts being made in brass, aluminum and stainless. I showed before and after pics and where the parts where on the model. I made a stand, that held the DVD player and on top, held the mirror and the glass to showcase what you were looking at on the model.
Most of the time, my stuff is on a mirror, that is sitting on a turntable that is on the table. Very basic setup. A mirror shows that all 4 wheels are either touching or not, and shows the underside. Since the truck model would have been too close to the mirror to see the underside, I borrowed Dirk Joseph's idea and used a piece of glass, elevated with craft store barrels, so that there was a distance between the mirror and the bottom of the truck. I also had a photo book next to it to show some other stuff.
And can you believe, that with a video, pics in a notebook and the model on a mirror, with a note that said "Please do not touch", some jerk, and I know who and do not use that term lightly, decided he needed to touch it to judge it? That's the kind of excrement that IPMS has. No thank you please. If you can't figure it out with a video, pics and a mirror, then I think you better find something else to do with your time, because you certainly know NOTHING about model building.
He said that he doesn't trust mirrors, and I reminded him that he looks in one every morning.