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    William J. Schneider

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  1. Wanted to get some info on this kit. I know Arii is hit or miss as far as scale fidelity and detail. Anyone have this kit or have built it in the past? If so, what are your impressions?
  2. Wow, very impressive work. With Dr Larry doing the Pontiac Colonnades and these Thunderbirds, its a great time to model 1970s icons!
  3. I don’t have the Maverick to verify, but based on pictures the bumpers on the Comet model look identical to those on the Maverick
  4. Inspired by the fine work of Adam Rehorn, I completed my own addition to the “Lovable Loser” pantheon. This is the 1971 Mercury Comet, constructed from an unpainted MotoMax Fresh Cherries kit. I used Dupli Color paint, foiled the trim, and added white walls, wire antenna, aluminum tube exhaust, and various other details. Chassis is typical die cast primitive, but engine compartment is more detailed than many die cast engine plates. I don’t know how big a market MotoMax was serving when they produced models of 1970s economy cars, but it sure won’t be available any other way.
  5. Does anyone have any knowledge of this kit? What is the parts count? How well does it build?
  6. Is the body and hood same as stock for the 1968 Funny Car reissue? Could this be combined with a 1969 cougar kit to make a factory stock 1968?
  7. It’s true I may have crossed the line between stubbornness and persistence. Its sometimes hard to to tell when you just need more practice as opposed to going a different route. In all cases, I have prepped the body and washed it thoroughly. The Metallizer doesn’t come up for me, but the paint lifts off of it. I have stuck with it because it covers red or orange plastic completely and doesn’t obscure script and other fine details like primer. I guess it’s time to go back to primer. Thanks for the thoughts.
  8. I am using the Donn Yost practice of using Testors Metallizer spray as a primer. When I go to foil the trim, the foil often lifts off the paint around the trim. This has happened to me when using rattle cans (Testors Lacquer as well as Krylon) and airbrushing. I have tried various things to combat this, including throughly buffing the Metallizer as well as scrubbing with soapy water. Can’t seem to eliminate it. Here are some pictures of the issue: Any help would be appreciated.
  9. There is a seller on eBay named redlinerestoration with some intriguing offerings. Wondered if anyone on the board has purchased his castings, and if so, what was quality
  10. I tried to flex the "vent" windows to no avail. The way they are adjoined to the windshield makes for a very strong joint. I am happy to report that I was able to cut one vent window to free up one side of the windshield, which enabled to remove it. I had to solve this problem, as I have accumulated several of these Reattas with intent of modeling a convertible and making a full detail with engine eventually. Thanks for the suggestion, Mr. Geary
  11. I am working on a Buick Reatta promo with intent of creating a detailed curbside from it. I am struggling with getting the windshield out of the assembled body, as the way it's mounted with the "vent" windows lock it in place. Anybody ought there know how to get the glass out without cracking it?
  12. Thanks Monty. I watched the video as you suggested; now I can't wait to get off work tomorrow so I can check the place out. I don't really need more kits, but I try not to let that fact get in the way of a good shopping trip.
  13. i will be traveling to Fort Worth area, and wonder if there are any local hobby shops worth visiting for plastic kits. Online search didn't turn up much.
  14. Thanks for the responses guys. I think I might try the washer route on this kit, since it's a snap kit. The pictures of the resin brakes look great, though. I will keep that in mind for my next detailed build.
  15. Thought I would try to resin cast some brake rotors for a PT Cruiser convertible I'm working on, as the wheels are open and absence of rotors is quite noticeable. I am planning to use a rotor from a 1998 Firebird kit as a master, and use a one piece mold. Looking for advice on how to mold the center hole open so that the rotor will slip over the wheel.
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