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Helper Monkey

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About Helper Monkey

  • Birthday 09/10/1980

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    Matt Pernack

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  1. Every photographer I knew in school always said that photography is all about lighting. Learn how to light things and you can have awesome pictures. I suggest using a lot of light, the brighter the better. Diffusing the light through something translucent such as frosted mylar or thin cloth will help to cut down on glare and reflective sports. Light the model from the front and from the sides. Never from behind. Its sorta like those old west movies where the hero rides off into the sunset and all you see is silhouette. Same thing will happen with your model. Using a tripod will help with shakiness or blurriness in most cases. High end cameras often have a remote that then you press it it takes the picture. Timers are a great way to get around using a remote if your camera can not use one. Both ideas work on the same principal in that you don't need to push the shutter, where you could shake the camera and cause blurriness from your touch. Keeps the camera rock steady. You can get great photos with your iphone if you use lots of lighting. I have seen tripods or mounts you can use for phones. A neat little trick a lot of people do not know about the iphone. You can take photos with the volume increase or decrease buttons on the side of the phone. What makes this cool is that the head phones that come with the iphone have a volume increase and decrease button built into them. You can set your phone on a tripod or mount and hit the buttons on your headphone and take photos. No shake or accidental nudging while taking the photo.
  2. I ended up mixing 4 parts white gesso (from Daniel Smith), 1 part Carbon Black Golden High Flow acrylic, 1 part Golden GAC-200 and 2 parts Tamiya X-20A Thinner. I did a test spray on a hood that I washed and sanded with 1600 grit sand paper before hand. The modified Gesso went on really well. I only sprayed a thin layer in order to test it. It sanded well with the 1600 girt paper, but it went down to the plastic really fast. Most likely due to the fact I sprayed such a thin coat. I did not get any flaking, chipping or anything like that however. It did bring out the light scratches on the underside of the hood. I am debating if I am going to resand the entire underside or if I am going to brush on some gesso there and see how it fills scratches.. I waited about a day before I sanded. Since it is acrylic it does have a tendency to shrink and I wanted it to cure before I attempted to sand it. Over all I am impressed. It worked much better than the AK Interactive stuff I tried. I am going to experiment and see how it goes.
  3. I have a bunch of gesso in my art supplies. I was thinking I could thin it down with Tamiya Thinner, add GAC-200 to promote adhesion to plastic and maybe add a little black to turn it grey. Has anyone ever done this? I have used the AK interactive but I didn't really care for it much. I know gesso is sand-able because I sand between coats when I prime my canvas.
  4. I suggest the Eclipse HP-CS. Its the best selling airbrush where I work and the one I typically tell people to buy. If you want to know I work for an art store. Some people do not like the HP-CS because it has a .35mm needle and jet. Which means you have a smaller coverage area. You can however upgrade the Needle, the jet and the housing to a .5mm for a larger area. I tend to stay away from the revolution and neo lines. They are not that great. Along with any trigger as opposed to typical airbrush design. I had a HP-CS and I loved it over my current Badger. My HP-CS got stolen sadly. I also had the Smart Jet compressor. A nice compressor and it turns itself off when you are not using it. However If I were to redo it I would buy the Power Jet Pro.
  5. You will need the I 602-1 for the cap and I 604-1 for the jet. Get them at Chicago Air Brush http://www.chicagoairbrushsupply.com/eclipseparts.html
  6. Sounds like the Paint is too heavy for the brush and that its drying before it hits the body. You need to thin out the paint to make it flow with the HP-CS. You may also go and buy a larger needle for the Iwata. I know for a fact that they make a .5mm for it. You will need the needle, the jet and the housing. It should set you back around $40.00 to $50.00. I would also dial up the the PSI on the compressor I run mine between 25 and 30 psi.
  7. I am just surprised that there is no oil filter and pump on the model. Its kinda disappointing. Now I assume the fuel pump has a line that run from the gas tank and then one to the carbs correct? I look at the photo I posted and I see the fuel pump with a line that goes up the motor and splits to the carbs. but then no other line leaving it. I am assuming that is because the pic is of a free standing motor and not in a car. Again, assuming that hole I can see would be where the lines goes from the pump to the tank.
  8. I used to have the HP-CS. Key word being had cause it got stolen from my car a few weeks ago. However, I love it. I had bought a new jet, needle and jet housing to upgrade it to a .5mm if need be. I also added on the External MAC Valve and the Pre-Set Adjustable Handle. I always have an extra needle on hand just in case. It is easy to damage them. Any airbrush you get I always recommend that you get a Duel Action and Gravity Feed. Siphon feeds or even side mount feeds have more of a chance to sputter and cause problems. It is also easier to control a Duel action than a single action.
  9. Most air brushes have an option to switch out the needles and jet/nozzle. I had an Iwata HP-CS which comes with a .35mm needle and jet/nozzle. I also had a .5mm needle and jet/nozzle for it. I use the word Had because someone stole it from my car a few weeks ago. I mostly use the Tamiya acrylics. I find their metallics work better with the .5mm than the .35 cause they clog. I also use Golden's High Flow Acrylics. I find that the pearl colors work pretty well with the .5mm. Everything else for Tamiya and Golden, I run the .35mm because I find that I get too much running, pooling and other problems. This has to do with the size of the pigment. Larger pigments need a larger opening. Finer pigments do well with smaller openings.
  10. Every car I have owned as been from the 90's. A 93 plymouth sundance, a 95 dodge neon, a 98 dodge neon R/T, a 91 Grand Marquis, and finally a 91 Subaru Legacy. I do not think I worked on anything older than a 87' Trans Am GTA.
  11. No I see the oil filter in the picture on the real motor. Its grey. Its not hard to miss. I would have assumed a fuel pump would only be in the fuel tank. Shows what I know. Basically the model kit does not have a oil filter or mounting for it. I do not even see a reference to them on the instructions.
  12. Scratch what I said. As I looked more in-depth at the motors. The part I am referring to is not the oil filter. Not entirely sure what it is. I think its some kinds of emissions part, ERG valve or something? It is the part that is located under the alternator. I hate to admit it, I do not know much about these older cars. My expertise was always on things post 1990. Most of the cars I had were after that time. Either way it appears there is no oil filter on this model kit. Has anyone on here ever scratched built the oil filter and mounting? If so, do you have pics I can look at? Other wise I will just have to figure it out and do it myself. I know I saw that all aluminium HEMI being built on here. that is well outside of my skill set.
  13. That is what I thought. Does anyone know if there is an updated engine front piece or should I remove where the filter attaches, and attach it to the other side?
  14. I have learned a long time ago to do research on which ever kit I am building. Every photo I found online of the hemi had the oil filter on the left/drivers side of the motor. On the kit it appears to be on the right/passenger side. Am I correct in assuming that the model is wrong?
  15. Thanks a lot guys. I vaguely remember doing that on my freind's Trans Am GTA like 15 years ago. Just takes a little something to jog that memory lose.
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