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Stryker3285

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About Stryker3285

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    MCM Member

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  • Are You Human?
    yes
  • Scale I Build
    1/24

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  • Location
    Odenton, MD
  • Full Name
    Douglas Albers

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  1. As has been stated earlier, most chassis and roll cages are gray. I haven't built a stock car in a while, but I always went with MM Light Ghost Gray for cars that had a gray interior.
  2. Very nice work. What colors did you use on the exhaust. I've bounced around between Steel and Jet Exhaust, but I'm not 100% those are doing the job. Your's look pretty spot on. Thanks Doug
  3. Bruce, Thanks, as soon as you said it, I see what a great Idea it is. Seen it many times with people testing airbrushes and paints and the thought never entered my mind. Now I know what to do. Thanks! Doug
  4. Hi,yellow One of my quarantine projects is to build two AMT 1990 Kodak Luminas and the transporter. I've figured out the best way to get the Kodak yellow down is to lay down yellow over a red primer. Or use Wheatland Yellow from Duplicolor. I have Duplicolor Wheatland Yellow and Red Primer (and gray primer). The question is: should I use red primer with the Wheatland or use the gray primer? I'm wondering if anyone has tried this combo and how it turned out. My thought is that since the base color is correct, that the red primer will make the Wheatland too dark, but I'm not sure. And my worst case is I do one body one way, one body the other way and see what comes out, then dunk the worst result and redo. Anyone have any experience or thoughts? Thanks! Doug
  5. Merkur, which decals did you use on the two Dexter cars? I have the blue car set from Wetworks/Racescale, but don't recall the red car. Thanks Doug
  6. Thanks all, I went with the packing peanuts and they worked a lot better than I expected. I like the way I can manipulate them to reshape the tires. Thanks! Doug
  7. Greetings distinguished group of experts, I have an AMT American LaFrance Pumper on my workbench. The current problem is that the vinyl tires are not fitting correctly to the rim. One half sits flush with the rim as it is supposed to, but the other half only goes halfway to the edge of the rim as it should. Worst case is that I can hide the misshaped tires on the dual wheels at the rear of the truck, but as someone who paints parts that can't be seen, I'd like them to fit right. One thought I had was to fill the interior of the tires with Milliputt putty to ensure the tires keep their shape over time. Has anyone else had this problem and found a better solution? Thanks! Doug
  8. The 24 Monte was one of the first NASCAR models I ever did. I ended up using Fluorescent Red as well. It looked good and I will be using it again when I move into some of the Gordon's I've got to do. One thing not mentioned is that you should mask out the Dupont logo that goes on the hood and paint that area white. It will keep the white Dupont letters from having a pinkish tinge to them.
  9. Thanks! Awesome tips, making me more than motivated to get back to work on the Challenger! Thanks Doug
  10. Greetings oh exalted experts of the model car world; I've been looking around the internet and really haven't found solid answers, so I thought I would ask the experts here. I normally do armor, aircraft, and some sci-fi and ships, but lately have been bitten by the Muscle Car bug. I've got a Revell 70 Challenger ready to paint. Wanting it to look good and not being a fan of normal (Testors/Krylon) rattle can paints, I decided to go with Dupli-color to paint the body and get a more accurate color (especially after Krylon went on terribly and I had to strip it and sand away the marring it did to the body). So I've put on several thin coats and am very happy with the results; it went on thinly and didn't hide or distort any detail. It also went on flat, which I figure isn't a problem. I think I know the answers to the following questions/observations, but want to be sure: 1. Does Dupli-color go on flat and need a clear/gloss coat to bring out the shine? (with some wet sanding to smooth it out prior to application; I've started rubbing it down with a paper towel as a very fine grit sander and it is already bringing out a shine) 2. Can I use Pledge/Future to clear coat the body or am I better off hitting my local auto parts store (or maybe Wally World) and get Dupli-color clear to seal and gloss the body? 3. I plan on hand brushing details (like turn signals, the battery, and other items in the engine bay) before clear coating. So far, so good? 4. I also want to use Bare-Metal foil for the chrome trim and think this should go on last after clear coating? I really like Dupli-color so far, very easy to use. I'm also getting into airbrushing and looking forward to using it as well to see if I can get my skills to a higher level. I've started collecting car kits and am looking forward to having a small fleet of cars down the road. And in advance, thanks for taking the time to read this and answer my questions! Doug
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