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Michael jones

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About Michael jones

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    Yes
  • Scale I Build
    1/24 1/25

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  • Location
    Christchurch, New Zealand
  • Full Name
    Michael Jones

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  1. C33 Laurel finished, working lights, driver added, graphics are painted (clear red over gold pearl ex base/black). Modded engine bay, lowered. Mike
  2. C33 Laurel finished, working lights, driver added, graphics are painted (clear red over gold pearl ex base/black). Modded engine bay, lowered. Mike
  3. C33 Laurel finished, working lights, driver added, graphics are painted (clear red over gold pearl ex base/black). Modded engine bay, lowered. Mike
  4. I have seen some people using hasegawa products like this recently. I would say BMF would be quite expensive in Japan, so this is a local alternative for them. Even in the country I live in (New Zealand) BMF is quite expensive (approx. $17US) so if there was a local alternative that would make sense to buy.
  5. Id say Intermediate Gauzy Agent" by AK Interactive is very similar at a guess to E7 paints chrome sealer. You can contact E7 paints direct if required.
  6. I don't have it in front of me right now, but pretty sure its water clean up. Probably a good idea to run some isopropyl alcohol through after. Usually I have just painted it on with a brush but I think I may have sprayed it once or twice. Pretty sure its sprays fine around 10-15psi. Let us know what works for you.
  7. As posted above, its probably the tape eating/marking the paint. This is quite common with Tamiya tape. Unlikely to be residue. I have cleared over this before, and you wouldn't even know it was there even though it looks terrible before the clear coat.
  8. I decided to buy this product. This is not a paint. You apply it with a cloth, but there is very little info even on the instructions. As you can see the result on the roof is pretty good, but it was already shiny so probably not a huge difference.
  9. Hi guys, Has anyone used this product before? https://www.wahwahmodelshop.com/product/tamiya-87151-gloss-coating-varnish/ I believe it is something similar to the glaze they use on real cars. I have seen a couple of examples on facebook, but not a lot of detailed info on the internet in general. Thanks Mike
  10. The trick is to buy the refill bottle. The chrome ink has not changed so far (probably 2 years at a guess). Don't waste time with the pens. Use a brush to apply.
  11. I think this is an extremely valid point. Anyone who uses 2k clear knows how hard it is to polish out scratches which is way harder than lacquer. A dremel is totally fine from my experience on 2k, but just doesn't quite get the job done with the compounds/pastes I have used in the past. More important is finding a paste aggressive enough to take out any scratches made in the wet sanding process. I personally nearly always don't wet sand, but sometimes you just have to. If anyone has used one that is aggressive enough, that would be great to hear about. I have been looking at Farecla G3. Thanks
  12. Interesting build. Quality of parts is not so great with a lot of mold lines, but the proportions of the body and decals are great. Also was missing the spare wheel which is waiting for shipment in Japan.
  13. Box stock except for the Indycal decals. Fun build and challenging paint scheme/decals.
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