Michael jones

The tamiya LP clear red is much more red than the X27 "red" which is more orange.

Thanks for the info. Mike

thanks for the help guys, much appreciated

Hi guys, I'm wanting to lower my Monogram Monte Carlo build, but recently with scale auto out of business the below link does not work anymore. Does anyone have a copy on their computer at all. That would be awesome if there was a way to still read this. I have read this forum and do get the general idea of how to do it (I have lowered several other cars before), but just wanted to read the actual story. link http://www.scaleautomag.com/~/media/import/files/pdf/3/9/7/sca-bu0607.pdf thanks very much Mike

Thanks for the kind words. Now onto Waltrip's Monte Carlo Aerocoupe Tide Ride

Just an idea, you could airbrush the window (surround only) in the body colour and then PVA glue the window in place. At least then, there would be a layer of paint between the body and the window. This is how beemax do their kits. The other idea (a bit more crazy)would be to thin some PVA down and apply it a bit like a panel line accent. As it would be very thin, you probably wouldn't notice it.

Thanks for the comments. See below attached photos. The first photo is how it was before I fixed it, and the second photo is how I did it. This slightly lowered the front of the car, which was good, and also I had to grind out some of the spring to make it fit. I panicked a bit at first when I saw the wheelbase problem, then came up with a super simple solution. You cant even see the spacers as they are hidden inside the wheel.. I think maybe this chassis has been used on several Subaru wrc builds, and probably the wheelbase of the body has changed, but Tamiya forgot to update the chassis to suit. I noticed several builds online have this problem.

Tamiya Subaru finished. Out of the box build apart from carbon fibre decals and also had to change the chassis wheelbase to match the body. Really happy with the result.

Gidday Gabby, I have used Pearl ex powder before, which are similar to what you are looking at. They are fantastic! Just grab your favourite clear coat and mix in some powder. The only downside, is they have a limited range of colours currently. Mike

Those models above look great! From my short experience with Future as a clear coat, it was the fact that it doesn't "grip" the surface very well, leading to runs, which I didn't like. Looks like it can really be polished to a high shine however. As mentioned above, works good applied with a brush. I did this with a couple of slot cars.

That looks great! Since posting this topic, I found you can buy a back plate that fits a dremel (usually used for sanding but I will use to attach sponge pads), and then can also buy the sponge pads all from aliexpress. It cost me approx. $12USD for all of this. Hope it turns up soon! Thanks Mike

Gidday, I have been getting really good results with a dremel and wool attachment, but I have seen some people using sponge pads on a dual action polisher and getting great results. A great example is here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S83pORseuK8&t=717s Does anyone know of a cheap polisher that can go very slowly and also handle the possible extra torque required for these sponge pads. I think it may be a bad idea to use them on my dremel as it could over heat. I do have a drill which would probably work be be fairly clumsy. Thanks

This question may be a bit late as I have already built a number of racing cars with clear over decals, but I was just wondering how should I remove the decal setting/softening solution "stains" before clear coating. I usually wash the body with the decals on, in soapy dish washing solution before clear coat, but just wondering if there is a specific cleaner which is best for the usual decal setting/softening solutions by Tamiya/Mr Hobby/ Micro Set/Sol etc. Thanks

I owned the later model Trueno GTZ and that was a great car. Very fast in the corners! Your builds look cool, great work.

Gidday, Its the aoshima kit. Thanks for the kind words.