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Michael jones

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About Michael jones

  • Rank
    MCM Regular

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  • Are You Human?
  • Scale I Build
    1/24 1/25

Profile Information

  • Location
    Christchurch, New Zealand
  • Full Name
    Michael Jones
  1. Yep the chrome does not rub off with the sealer laid down :). To be honest it looks much better than in the photo.
  2. Hi guys, I thought I would share with you, the E7 paints chrome sealer which I have brush painted over Molotow Chrome. See photos below. If you look closely, you can just faintly see a horizontal line (just above my hand) in the photo. The lower half is clear coated with E7 chrome sealer and the top half is not clear coated. I would say it has retained 90% of the reflection. It actually got clearer as it dried. Started out a little milky. The stuff is relatively cheap to buy on ebay, around $8US for 20ml. Regards Mike
  3. What went wrong???

    Which brake fluid did you use? Dot 4 Brake fluid has always worked for me (dot 3 is the most commonly used stuff for paint stripping so should work too). It even removes 2k clear after a little scrubbing.
  4. Mazda 787

    Happened on my one, before I even removed it from the box. I hope you tested the engine cowl fitment before you did all that engine work, as it is really hard to make the cowl fit nicely, especially once paint is on, it gets even worse. A really bad design.
  5. Molotow chrome

    To me the pens are a waste of money. The refill is by far the best option. I use a small paint brush to apply, after putting a drop or two in a cup. Also if you do air brush it, thin it down a lot - sorry cant remember the exact ratio I used, but something like 2 or 3 (thinner)/1 (molotow). The paint doesn't go silver in the refill like it does in the pen. Maybe this has got something to do with air getting in the pens or maybe they are clogging up.
  6. Tamiya acrylic paint ?????

    Call me crazy, but I don't really see any point of using Tamiya Acrylics for airbrushing. They need lacquer thinner or alcohol thinner to spray nicely, so may as well just use lacquer paint. Certainly not a true acrylic and very bad for your health just like lacquers.
  7. Any one in the know with Hasegawa?

    Probably depends on the licensing details. I think Fujimi still have the licensing, as they have re-released the 250 GTO. Last year I was in Tokyo and saw the Hasegawa 250TR on the shelf in Yodabashi Camera. I should have bought it, but bought other kits that I wanted more. Luggage space was an issue :(. I also wonder where the tooling for the gunze 250GT has gone to? I have this model in my stash to start soonish.
  8. Hasegawa BMW 318i Touring Car Longhurst B&H version

    Mr Mark Softer may help - the stuff is very strong, however if the decals are dry it might be hard to right them from here. I think its probably not so much the paint finish that is the problem here, but more the decal not conforming very well to the curved surfaces and the decals too thick too.
  9. Tamiya Alfa Romeo Giulia GTA

    Gidday, its the Tamiya kit. I just removed the bumpers, added some Asuka wheels and some other minor details. I think there is a Gunze Sangyo Alfa kit which has the wide fenders etc. Would be a good kit to build I reckon.
  10. Tamiya Alfa Romeo Giulia GTA

    The paint is Tamiya racing blue TS51 with 2k clear over the top thinned with mr levelling thinner. No polishing compounds used apart from a couple of areas of minor scratches caused during the foiling process.
  11. Revell 2019

    Good choices are what makes or breaks a company. Especially when choosing cars to model. That Lancia Delta S4 mentioned above, has a worldwide following with iconic Martini sponsorship. A very smart choice.
  12. Tamiya Alfa Romeo GTA

    A bit more progress... edit - I just noticed a little dot of molotow chrome on the oil filter, gone soon
  13. Tamiya Alfa Romeo GTA

    Gidday, Its a 2 part automotive clear. Much easier to get a super shiny finish, but not good for your health unless you use the correct PPE
  14. Tamiya Lotus 78 1/20

    thanks guys for all the comments