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Michael jones

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About Michael jones

  • Rank
    MCM Regular

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  • Are You Human?
  • Scale I Build
    1/24 1/25

Profile Information

  • Location
    Christchurch, New Zealand
  • Full Name
    Michael Jones
  1. Hi guys, after reading about it on the internet on several different forums, I thought I would try tamiya extra thin cement on some clear parts. It works!! No fogging and strong. So I guess there is no need to use other types of "clear glue" when it works well. There must be quite a difference between the regular orange top tamiya cement and the tamiya extra thin cement. The only thing I will say, is if the windscreen is not a good fit for the surround, a thicker glue may work better.
  2. I have used window tint film on this AE86. It was some stuff I bought from Aliexpress. Came rolled up and crinkled. Went down with a few small bubbles. I tried my best to get rid of them. The stuff is quite sticky which is great. I think the best idea is to go to a window tinting business and ask for some off cuts. At least they will be flatter then... This idea came from the Nascar modellers who do this all the time.
  3. Light grey lacquer primer.

    Probably also depends on air temps/ airbrush pressure/ nozzle size as well. Location New Zealand BTW not Australia
  4. Light grey lacquer primer.

    Tamiya or Mr Surfacer are very reliable great primers but yes expensive. I tried Plasticote T235, and found it needs thinning if applied via airbrush or you get spider webs, but is ok straight from the can. I think a good compromise for cost is to use the Tamiya or Mr Surfacer primers for body panels, but use the Plasticote for interiors and other underbody parts where the finish is not so important.
  5. Same here, 2k is the only clear I have used now for a few years. Brilliant stuff. You can get cheap automotive stuff as well. The model stuff is much more expensive.
  6. Italeri Preview 2019( Cars)

    I wonder if the Lancia LC2 is the protar kit? Hope not, but still want it anyway, along with the escort and of course the Tamiya Toyota Lemans racer
  7. Beemax BMW M3

    Maybe its closer to 1/23 scale . I think I am addicted to Beemax. I have the Volvo and Audi to build, plus of course the Lancia when I can afford it... Also waiting for the Starion and Starlet too.
  8. Beemax BMW M3

    Thanks for the comments guys
  9. Beemax BMW M3

    Finished. Replaced bonnet due warped, needle used for antenna, 2K clear, kit decals. Happy
  10. Airbrush in between coats

    Gidday Steve, Automotive lacquers are pretty hot, so yeah possibly a problem especially depending on the primer used. But I have not encountered any problems with Tamiya/ Gaianotes/ Mr Color paint, as they seem to work very well with Tamiya primers providing a great barrier. For sure worth the extra money for the Tamiya primers.
  11. Airbrush in between coats

    Just wondering, but why wait so long between coats? I usually would only wait max of about 5 mins. Sometimes I don't even bother waiting if it is hot. Especially with Tamiya lacquer paints as they dry quite quick. I guess spraying a lot of paint in one go, would require a long wait time for it to dry. When spraying matt colours you can see the paint dry, so get a good idea of how long to wait before adding another coat.
  12. Chrome Chrome Chrome everywhere

    Great info guys thanks.
  13. Decanting spray paint

    I keep it much simpler than most here. All I do is get a straw, place it up against the nozzle and spray from the can into my airbrush cup. No need to hold any paint anywhere - that is just a pain. No need to wait for any reason either. Works amazing with Tamiya paints. This is a 5 second process. Sometimes I don't even use a Straw like Art said above!
  14. Chrome Chrome Chrome everywhere

    Looks cool. How do you clean off the paint without damaging the foil? Thanks. On another note - as far as I know there is still no really good clear for Molotow. I tried 2k clear and when wet it stayed good, but once it dried, it wrecked the molotow.
  15. Clear coat over decals?

    I think it is the sun that is the real reason for using clear (2k rules). There is a good chance of sun attacking the models in a display cabinet in a living room etc. Who really leaves there models outside anway?! I had one car which faded with no clear, it was painted with Tamiya Fluro Red. It was obvious the fade started at the point of the car that was mostly in the sun, and slowly the whole paint job degraded to the same colour. BTW if you think the result is too glossy with 2k clear, why not use matt clear (once again 2k)? I also notice decal edges disappear mostly and it also seems to suck the decals down better, if there are any not so well seated ones on compound curves. I believe you can mix the 2k clear gloss and matt to get the correct balance for those really worried about the correct shine. Mike