Michael jones

Often the BMF is too wide on models around the windows and does need a black background that looks like rubber as posted above. I just wonder if there is some narrow metal strips that could be used to make the metal window seals which could be glued on top of some semi gloss black painted window surrounds. That would look more real I believe, but curves might be a problem. Especially seems true with 50's/60's European sports/ GT cars.

Are you removing the paint or the paint and the primer? If it is the paint and primer try Tamiya primer, its expensive but very good stuff.

Future doesn't work on molotow chrome. Turns it to silver. Use E7 paints chrome sealer for that.

Yep - see review here:

Hi guys, I tested the E7 paints shine chrome on a couple of parts. I think it came out looking like a good match for stainless steel. I also cleared the parts with their chrome sealer with no dulling evident. The photo of the chassis, shows the shine chrome on the left and aluminium foil on the right.

Gidday, I left the sealer overnight to dry before I touched it. Yes the spoon was airbrushed, and the spoon had been painted chrome a long time ago so unsure how long you have to wait till sealer application. Mike

Yep the chrome does not rub off with the sealer laid down :). To be honest it looks much better than in the photo.

Hi guys, I thought I would share with you, the E7 paints chrome sealer which I have brush painted over Molotow Chrome. See photos below. If you look closely, you can just faintly see a horizontal line (just above my hand) in the photo. The lower half is clear coated with E7 chrome sealer and the top half is not clear coated. I would say it has retained 90% of the reflection. It actually got clearer as it dried. Started out a little milky. The stuff is relatively cheap to buy on ebay, around $8US for 20ml. Regards Mike

Which brake fluid did you use? Dot 4 Brake fluid has always worked for me (dot 3 is the most commonly used stuff for paint stripping so should work too). It even removes 2k clear after a little scrubbing.

Happened on my one, before I even removed it from the box. I hope you tested the engine cowl fitment before you did all that engine work, as it is really hard to make the cowl fit nicely, especially once paint is on, it gets even worse. A really bad design.

To me the pens are a waste of money. The refill is by far the best option. I use a small paint brush to apply, after putting a drop or two in a cup. Also if you do air brush it, thin it down a lot - sorry cant remember the exact ratio I used, but something like 2 or 3 (thinner)/1 (molotow). The paint doesn't go silver in the refill like it does in the pen. Maybe this has got something to do with air getting in the pens or maybe they are clogging up.

Call me crazy, but I don't really see any point of using Tamiya Acrylics for airbrushing. They need lacquer thinner or alcohol thinner to spray nicely, so may as well just use lacquer paint. Certainly not a true acrylic and very bad for your health just like lacquers.

Probably depends on the licensing details. I think Fujimi still have the licensing, as they have re-released the 250 GTO. Last year I was in Tokyo and saw the Hasegawa 250TR on the shelf in Yodabashi Camera. I should have bought it, but bought other kits that I wanted more. Luggage space was an issue :(. I also wonder where the tooling for the gunze 250GT has gone to? I have this model in my stash to start soonish.

Mr Mark Softer may help - the stuff is very strong, however if the decals are dry it might be hard to right them from here. I think its probably not so much the paint finish that is the problem here, but more the decal not conforming very well to the curved surfaces and the decals too thick too.

Gidday, its the Tamiya kit. I just removed the bumpers, added some Asuka wheels and some other minor details. I think there is a Gunze Sangyo Alfa kit which has the wide fenders etc. Would be a good kit to build I reckon.