Olderisbetter
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Posts posted by Olderisbetter
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Thanks, another good tip.
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Lego, I might try that sometime. I discarded my old bleach and replaced with new. Seems fine now. Thanks for the reply.
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Mark, I tried soaking the parts in 99% isopropyl alcohol, but that did not cut through the residue. Then I tried lighter fluid. With lots of rubbing that seemed to take it off. But can't rub hard enough on the fragile parts. Thanks for your reply.
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Just tried stripping chrome on a Monogram Duesenberg. I used bleach as I have dozens of times before. But this is my first Monogram gluebomb. This time it left a white colored residue that could be scraped off with my fingernail. Didn't leave the residue everywhere. Only on certain areas of different parts.. Does anybody have a clue? Thanks.
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1 hour ago, beeRS said:
I tried to spot the mods before reading any comments. I can see it looks sleeker (longer and lower), so my first thought was maybe a very subtle roof chop. No, not just that, maybe a sectioning too.
Im not familiar enough with the 34 to have spotted the cowel extension, but it looks just right. The swage line looks like it was meant to stop on the door.
Great to see one of these done in this style. Lovely job.
Thanks Sonny. I appreciate the scrutiny. It was a 1/4" (6.5mm) extension. 6 scale inches or so.
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2 minutes ago, Perspective Customs said:
Cool thanks. But wait, you put plastic in the oven for 3 days?
Home made dehydrator type oven. 115F
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22 minutes ago, Perspective Customs said:
Very nice model. Are the wheels from the kit or aftermarket?
Thanks for the compliment.
The wheels are stock wheels from this kit. However they were not chrome. I 'chromed' them with ATM brand spray Chrome Enamel, as it says on the can. This is mfgd in Thailand where I live. It states on the can that it is not real chrome, just looks like chrome. After I paint with it, I put in my oven for about 3 days @ 115Fto help cure and reduce humidity, then I put on a shelf for about 3 weeks before handling.
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5 hours ago, espo said:
You are correct about the shape of the '34 pickup I had owned. The grill shape even looked like a '32 on the top and the bottom shape was more of a square shape. I think the point I had in mind was that in that era so many different trim items and other accessories would be supplied from so many different sources it would be hard to tell what came from the Ford assembly line or Ford dealership or just another after-market supplier.
I agree with you. Many dealer installed options too.
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6 hours ago, espo said:
I'm not an expert on the fine details of these early Fords, but I have owned a few years ago. The one in particular that come to mind was a '34 Ford pickup. While it had somethings done too it before I got it, it was still pretty stock in the area of the cab and the fenders. My truck had a single spare in the right front fender, which I didn't like and later removed. The fender had a "well" for the tire to sit into and the top of the tire was below the drivers' sight line, much as you have done on your model. This brings me to the picture you have of a sedan delivery. My thought is that maybe this particular vehicle had the spare added later and this mounted the spare higher on the side of the truck and with a very small well for the tire to sit in. Another thing to remember with many of the cars and trucks from this era is that there were many changes made thought the model run.
First off, thanks for your reply. I think the 34 Ford PU does not share the front fenders & hood with 34 passenger car and sedan delivery. It has more of the 1932 Ford style. I have seen other pics of 34's with sidemounts and they look like the pic I submitted of the sedan delivery. But you are correct about modifications and changes. They were abundant.
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Espo,Well, the side mounts were the reason for extending the body & frame. Here's a pic of a sedan delivery with factory side mounts. I thought they distracted from the original lines of the vehicle. Note how the wheel sits so high. So I extended the cowl 6 scale inches to better accommodate the spare. Thanks for the compliment.
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Alan & David, Wow! you guys are sharp. Yes, I overlooked that swage line. Didn't catch it till model was almost complete. Thanks for the compliments.
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Sorry, Headline shout have read:
1934 Ford With Subtle Yet Major Mod. Can You Spot It?
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Ok, scrap piece in 70% ethyl alcohol did nothing. But after about 40 hrs in brake fluid, the original piece softened up. With extensive scraping with exacto knives and some sanding and extreme cussing I got it to the point I could primer & paint. It is not perfect, but is acceptable due to it being partially covered by the custom sidemounts and stock headlights in critical areas. Won't win any shows, but hell, I haven't won a show since I was a teen and I'm 77 now. Thanks for all the advice guys.
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Just put a scrap piece in 70% ethyl Alcohol (cuz that's what I have on hand). Will let you all know in about 24hrs.
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YH -70...Isopropal 99% unavailable here, but Ethyl Alcohol 99% is available. Not sure about ethyl Alcohol.
Hondamatic: Very informative. Thanks
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Thanks for the swift reply. Part of my problem is the primer, which is a made for plastic, acrylic lacquer primer made here in Thailand, where I live. This primer also doesn't respond to brake fluid. The part I'm trying to strip is the hood side panel from a 34 Ford. Simulated hood louvres and just no surface area to sand. I wonder if oven cleaner would do it?
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I need to strip acrylic epoxy paint from a plastic part.. Brake fluid doesn't work after 24 hrs. Any real life experience? Any suggestions? Thank you.
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I've been looking for that. However, I'm 8000 miles from the closest WalMart.
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Tom,
Your skill level must be way higher than mine, but then again that includes most 9 year olds. Go for it. By the way I'm the guy who you were digging for the 57 Ford tail light bezels. Got your message. There's a PM for you waiting. Thanks.
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Thanks for all the replies guys.
Strange Result Stripping Chrome
in Model Building Questions and Answers
Posted
Thank you Peter.