Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

The Fisherman

Members
  • Content Count

    46
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About The Fisherman

  • Rank
    MCM Regular

Previous Fields

  • Are You Human?
    Yes
  • Scale I Build
    1:24

Profile Information

  • Location
    PA
  • Full Name
    Zachary Zeigler

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. They weathered better then a 1:1 would have! Nice builds.
  2. Done. Only stop left is to set in on the table at my local MCC for opinions. The outside pics:
  3. He's down to the last few turns now. Glass and interior is in. Chassis and body have been mated. Next step is getting the brakes installed. Once the GTO is sitting on all fours, he'll finish off the engine bay and get it outside for a few glamour pics.
  4. He's back on this build finally. After failing to get a hold of anything he/we could make work as a windshield, I ended up getting him a complete kit. He happily set aside the nightmare '67 he's been working with(against) to get the '64 under glass. Finishing up some hood detailing:
  5. The rear inlay and opening trim rings are. The rings are a bear to work with as they are all the same size, while the actual opens are progressively, slightly different sizes. Thanks to all for the kind words. Whole lotta learning on this one: BMF, scaling details, scratch building, PE usage, etc.
  6. Need a sunny day to get a few outside pictures, but here are a few indoor pics of my Revell '71 Hemi 'Cuda. Paint: Model Master enamels, acrylics, rattle can lacquer (for the body), and Alclad chrome. Zaino polish to finish '70's era shine. PE pieces used throughout.
  7. 4/4/16 - I'm well outside my comfort level now. I have no idea what I'm doing, but Continue to press forward. Removed one(1) door and cut the interior bucket apart to match. I have to figure out where the filler pieces will be installed; not certain if they get built onto the body, then the interior is installed to fit, or if the fillers get built onto the interior bucket, then fitted into the body like a typical step(?) Installed the rain gutters in the trunk. I will need to work around this mistake, as I neglected to budget for the height of the half-round I was going to use as the trunk gasket. Right now, the trunk lid fits perfect on the gutters, but will sit too high with the .040 strip laid in. (May just opt to display the car trunk open.......
  8. Thanks! Here is a better view of the chassis that I started to "rot": Not certain if I'll do it on the chassis or one of the quarter panels, but I want to incorporate a "license plate patch panel" somewhere.
  9. While waiting for paint to dry on a few pieces for Twisted Fish, I started on version II. This is planned to be the same car, 30 (hard) years later. It will show what happens when someone too young to have such a muscle car: accident damage, rust from lack of care, a motor that has been tinkered with and neglected, factory options replaced with whatever was available (affordable) at the time; all while still being driveable. This will be my first attempt at rusting/weathering and opening doors/trunk. Please feel free to let me know where I go wrong and/or share any thoughts about the process(es). Mocked up stance with the broken, shackle rear end lift: Shackles that are broken (on purpose), yet still keeping things together. Rear view also shows a lost exhaust tip and rust on what is left. The shackles and front leaf spring connections will get rusted in time.
  10. Almost there. Need to finish installing the hood hinges and front directional signals. Planning on showcasing the car with the hood extended above the roof line with aluminum rods at all four(4) corners.
  11. The only reason those were left on the "spruce" was because they aren't going to be used for anything other than trial/error. I typically will drill holes as well, but use toothpicks to hold the pieces that are getting painted. Pieces that can't be drilled either get a piece of tacky clay or Elmer's (white) glue applied with a toothpick or skewer. I don't know..................this stuff can be pretty hard to cut through sometimes.
  12. I believe I know what I'm looking for, but I was prepped for failure after talking to the HS owner, so is this the correct finish? Or should I be going after more reflection and glare qualities? Kit pieces were sanded as finely as I could. Shot with Alclad black base, left to cure for 24hrs. Then Alclad chrome sprayed with multiple fine passes with the airbrush held at a 45 degree angle to the pieces as each pass was made. Made certain to make no spot shots, and no heavy passes........which I had to think about as the color started to come out. Tried to get captures with different light intensities and comparisons with one of the pieces that will receive the paint to correct spruce damage. Is this right, or is there room for improvement?
  13. Down to front and rear bumpers, both of which need to be done with a chrome Alclad treatment, and radiator hoses. Ran into a slight problem with hood clearance due to my own lack of experience. Had to ditch the air hat base and mount the scoop in the hood, which for me is OK as I had plans to keep it removable anyway due to the detailing it covered on the engine. Also had to modify the wheels to fit a set of AMT Goodyear F60-15 tires. (Saving that view for the finished set of pics.)
  14. I'm stuck. Picked up at set of AMT Goodyear tires to finish off Twisted Fish and ran into a problem I haven't been able to find an answer about. The AMT tires (F60-15 and L70-15) are both narrower than the Revell wheels and backer. I've shaved thickness from both pieces and dished the backer as much as I can to set the wheel into it and the pieces are still too wide to fit either tire. Is there a trick to using these tires, or do I simply make a new backer to fit? I have no problem doing that, I just feel as if I'm missing something with the usage of these popular tires.
  15. Is that a good thing or more on the lines of burnt toast? (joking) I was influenced last evening. Watching my 14 year old scratch build an alternator simply because "the one that came with it doesn't match my pictures" (in reference to the '69 Z/28 he is working on), I looked at my engine and just wasn't content with where I was stopping at. The throttle return spring mounts were fabricated and the springs mounted in their correct orientation. I was going to stop there.................but it just seemed incomplete through my eyes. So, a little brass fret, small cut of aluminum tubing, a short piece of piano wire, and leftover electrical wire covering found themselves combined to become a throttle cable and tensioner. Still need to fabricate a breather element and oil fill cap.....................then it'll need vacuum lines............when does it truly end? Guess it'll end when I want it to.
×
×
  • Create New...