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MarvinGardens

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About MarvinGardens

  • Birthday October 27

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    Marvin Gardens

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  1. As of January, the Panhandle Automotive Modelers Society has formed. 11 members to start with. WE meet every 4th Saturday of the month, 1:00pm, at Johns Models in Cantonment Florida. All in the area are welcome!
  2. Pensacola Modeleers (IPMS affiliate club) will be holding the 'Blue Angel Modelfest 2023' show and swap on SEpt 9th. Info below: Blue Angel Modelfest 2023 Sept 9th, 2023, 08:30-17:00 Santa Rosa County Auditorium 4530 Spikes Way, Milton, Fl 32583 Contact: Bob Moore (billy_bob_steve58@hotmail.com) or John Struck (johnsmodels@hotmail.com) For car guys; this club is looking to expand into a separate Automotive modeling club. That is why I post this show info here, as they will be recruiting/signing up initial prospective members at this show.
  3. A = Class for cars with less than 10# per Horsepower (generally) S = Stock (as the manufacturer produced it and it rolled off the assembly line) That decal won't work for a Gasser. You would want a A/G
  4. IPMS-affiliated Pensacola Modeleers will be holding their 2022 'Blue Angel Modelfest' show/swap at the Pensacola Interstate Fairgrounds (Mobile Highway), Building 7, on May 14th 2022. Physical address: Pensacola Interstate Fairgrounds, Building 7, 6655 Mobile Highway, Pensacola Florida. For more info, contact: Bob Moore (Billy_Bob_Steve58@hotmail.com ) John Struck (Johnsmodels@johnsmodels.com).
  5. Except for the fact that your coil pack drilling/routing is a bit off; good start. Yes, the 4.6 SOHC has both the plugs and injectors at the top of the head (and located pretty much beside each other in both 1:1 and in scale); same with the 3V 4.6L of 2005-2010 GTs. Your upper intake tract and lower intake plenum are correctly colored; the only tip to scale accuracy is dull both (the lower is thermoformed plastic and is semi-gloss Black on its' best day). Valve covers and Power steering reservoir are looking good!
  6. That's correct. The Capri had the 'Mustang' hatch from 1979-82. 1983-86, the Capri gained the 'Bubble' hatch. These kits are also horrid in that they did try to combine the Mustang and Capri into one kit, having both the blister fenders of the Capri and the wheel lips of the Mustangs (Capris did not have the wheel lips like the Mustang). However, it did inspire me to build a 1:1 MustPri with the flared fenders added to the Capri blisters.
  7. That is why I say 4R70-platform. That encompasses 4R70W, 4R70E, 4R75, 4R80, and 4R100 transmissions (as the 4R was based off the AODE architecture and has changed a bit over the years). Yours will be post-2001 and will no longer have one of the stiffener plates in the valve body-to-trans plate. I forgot to mention; when I did my JMod, it was to a Superior brand 'Tuff Plate', which is almost twice as thick as a stock separator plate. That kit also comes with a little dimple 'foot' to keep one of the accumulator plates from hitting the separator plate and slowly dimpling it (allowing fluid flow-by that will wreak havoc on overdrive-downshift in the 4R).
  8. Also be aware those 4R70-platform transmissions DO NOT like heat, and will fail if not cooled properly. IF you get it, service the trans with fresh MERC V fluid and filter; look at the old fluid and mag plug in the deep pan. If it is BLACK and fuzzy, your trans is on its' last leg, and 4R70s aren't really cheap. If it looks ok, do the JMod as it will save the transmissions life (and add a little fun to your driving experience (take this from someone who has had to replace 2 4R70s in CVPIs due to them being burned up). I ended up with a fresh 4R70, installed new solenoids, added a Jmodded valve body, (the CVPIs already have the deep pan and filter) installed a 30,000GVW aux trans cooler, and a temp gauge to my latest CVPI and so far-so good.
  9. Generally I stay outta' subjects like this, as styling is always subjective. But, to my eyes: His attempt at modernizin' the SHELBY wheel failed miserably. Some slight lip stagger (offset) might help 'em, but then again maybe not. Since he was in the SHELBY rippin'-off mood, maybe he could have used a styled version of the Cougar/'67 GT500 tail light to help fill that big-ol' booty panel. Stickin' with one style of striping would also help, not a combo of two different styles. While Gray is overdone these days, the shade (again, in my eyes only) seems to help smooth out this year group body lines.
  10. Is this the Monogram/Revell or MPC/AMT kit? Awesome build!
  11. Didn't Kris Morgan (Morgan Auto Design) cast a 5R55 in resin?
  12. If you took the time to read my initial reply, Peter, you would see that mine is ALSO a Police Interceptor (P71, where his is a P7B. The designation changed from P71 to P7B in 2009) and there is NO difference in computer tune, or engine configuration between Civvie and Police P7 cars. The difference lies in the auxiliary oil cooling, clutched High-output alternator, 3/4" raise in the suspension with heavier spring/shocks, larger front sway bar (but smaller bar than the HPP cars), a slightly higher idle speed, and 3.27 or 3.55 rear gears (versus civvie 2.73 or MAYBE 3.27 in the HPP cars). Did you also miss the part about the PCM having a higher speed cut-out (and what those cut-outs are) from the first post? Please, know what you are talking about before replying. Not meant to be cruel, but it makes it less likely you look ignorant. Even a calibrated speedometer doesn't mean 100% accurate, as they have to be re-calibrated every year, 6 months if there is any questionable readings. Post-2005 cars have a digital speed pick-up in the transmission (versus the old worm-gear set-up) and speeds can be adjusted through the PCM using specialized equipment. I am able to load speed signals via my handheld, but that only takes into consideration the gear changes. In order to properly calibrate for tire size, I would have to load the car on the dyno, run the car with the equipment hooked up, look at and interpret the PIPS signal, and make adjustments (then load those adjustments as a file into the cars PCM). Besides modifying these cars, I also worked on them for a living. Not to sound like a know-it-all, but in this instance I just MIGHT know something. Ron, do you know how many miles are on your car?
  13. Do yourself, and the car, two favors. 1) PLEASE get that 4R70 JModded and add extra cooling capacity. 2) Get it tuned. These two things, above all else, will make the car safer and more fun to drive. If you are still on stock suspension, I would highly recommend the METCO Watts bars and either Heinous or METCO rear control arms. Your bushings are likely worn and in need of replacement; these arms help alleviate the loose feeling from the rear of the car. Also, look into the ADDCO rear sway bar kit. It will flatten the car out and make it feel more stable on the onramps.
  14. I mod these cars, and probably know a little bit more about them and their abilities than most folks. I will repeat, without a tune, you WILL NOT see 150mph. It is a common FACT. So, unless you have unequivocal proof, it did not happen as the cars computer WILL NOT let it happen. I have mine tuned, and am still setting it up to go 150+. If time off were abundant, I'd come up your way and run you, with GoPros on both cars. Then, absolute proof would exist. It's folks like you who give credible builders and tuners a bad image.
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