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MarvinGardens

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About MarvinGardens

  • Birthday October 27

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    1/25th

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    Pensacola Florida
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    Marvin Gardens

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  1. Except for the fact that your coil pack drilling/routing is a bit off; good start. Yes, the 4.6 SOHC has both the plugs and injectors at the top of the head (and located pretty much beside each other in both 1:1 and in scale); same with the 3V 4.6L of 2005-2010 GTs. Your upper intake tract and lower intake plenum are correctly colored; the only tip to scale accuracy is dull both (the lower is thermoformed plastic and is semi-gloss Black on its' best day). Valve covers and Power steering reservoir are looking good!
  2. That's correct. The Capri had the 'Mustang' hatch from 1979-82. 1983-86, the Capri gained the 'Bubble' hatch. These kits are also horrid in that they did try to combine the Mustang and Capri into one kit, having both the blister fenders of the Capri and the wheel lips of the Mustangs (Capris did not have the wheel lips like the Mustang). However, it did inspire me to build a 1:1 MustPri with the flared fenders added to the Capri blisters.
  3. That is why I say 4R70-platform. That encompasses 4R70W, 4R70E, 4R75, 4R80, and 4R100 transmissions (as the 4R was based off the AODE architecture and has changed a bit over the years). Yours will be post-2001 and will no longer have one of the stiffener plates in the valve body-to-trans plate. I forgot to mention; when I did my JMod, it was to a Superior brand 'Tuff Plate', which is almost twice as thick as a stock separator plate. That kit also comes with a little dimple 'foot' to keep one of the accumulator plates from hitting the separator plate and slowly dimpling it (allowing fluid flow-by that will wreak havoc on overdrive-downshift in the 4R).
  4. Also be aware those 4R70-platform transmissions DO NOT like heat, and will fail if not cooled properly. IF you get it, service the trans with fresh MERC V fluid and filter; look at the old fluid and mag plug in the deep pan. If it is BLACK and fuzzy, your trans is on its' last leg, and 4R70s aren't really cheap. If it looks ok, do the JMod as it will save the transmissions life (and add a little fun to your driving experience (take this from someone who has had to replace 2 4R70s in CVPIs due to them being burned up). I ended up with a fresh 4R70, installed new solenoids, added a Jmodded valve body, (the CVPIs already have the deep pan and filter) installed a 30,000GVW aux trans cooler, and a temp gauge to my latest CVPI and so far-so good.
  5. Generally I stay outta' subjects like this, as styling is always subjective. But, to my eyes: His attempt at modernizin' the SHELBY wheel failed miserably. Some slight lip stagger (offset) might help 'em, but then again maybe not. Since he was in the SHELBY rippin'-off mood, maybe he could have used a styled version of the Cougar/'67 GT500 tail light to help fill that big-ol' booty panel. Stickin' with one style of striping would also help, not a combo of two different styles. While Gray is overdone these days, the shade (again, in my eyes only) seems to help smooth out this year group body lines.
  6. Is this the Monogram/Revell or MPC/AMT kit? Awesome build!
  7. Didn't Kris Morgan (Morgan Auto Design) cast a 5R55 in resin?
  8. If you took the time to read my initial reply, Peter, you would see that mine is ALSO a Police Interceptor (P71, where his is a P7B. The designation changed from P71 to P7B in 2009) and there is NO difference in computer tune, or engine configuration between Civvie and Police P7 cars. The difference lies in the auxiliary oil cooling, clutched High-output alternator, 3/4" raise in the suspension with heavier spring/shocks, larger front sway bar (but smaller bar than the HPP cars), a slightly higher idle speed, and 3.27 or 3.55 rear gears (versus civvie 2.73 or MAYBE 3.27 in the HPP cars). Did you also miss the part about the PCM having a higher speed cut-out (and what those cut-outs are) from the first post? Please, know what you are talking about before replying. Not meant to be cruel, but it makes it less likely you look ignorant. Even a calibrated speedometer doesn't mean 100% accurate, as they have to be re-calibrated every year, 6 months if there is any questionable readings. Post-2005 cars have a digital speed pick-up in the transmission (versus the old worm-gear set-up) and speeds can be adjusted through the PCM using specialized equipment. I am able to load speed signals via my handheld, but that only takes into consideration the gear changes. In order to properly calibrate for tire size, I would have to load the car on the dyno, run the car with the equipment hooked up, look at and interpret the PIPS signal, and make adjustments (then load those adjustments as a file into the cars PCM). Besides modifying these cars, I also worked on them for a living. Not to sound like a know-it-all, but in this instance I just MIGHT know something. Ron, do you know how many miles are on your car?
  9. Do yourself, and the car, two favors. 1) PLEASE get that 4R70 JModded and add extra cooling capacity. 2) Get it tuned. These two things, above all else, will make the car safer and more fun to drive. If you are still on stock suspension, I would highly recommend the METCO Watts bars and either Heinous or METCO rear control arms. Your bushings are likely worn and in need of replacement; these arms help alleviate the loose feeling from the rear of the car. Also, look into the ADDCO rear sway bar kit. It will flatten the car out and make it feel more stable on the onramps.
  10. I mod these cars, and probably know a little bit more about them and their abilities than most folks. I will repeat, without a tune, you WILL NOT see 150mph. It is a common FACT. So, unless you have unequivocal proof, it did not happen as the cars computer WILL NOT let it happen. I have mine tuned, and am still setting it up to go 150+. If time off were abundant, I'd come up your way and run you, with GoPros on both cars. Then, absolute proof would exist. It's folks like you who give credible builders and tuners a bad image.
  11. Then, with no offense, I can tell you with absolute certainty you did not make 150mph with the car. You may have hit 150Kph. 235/55-17 tires, with either the 3.27 or 3.55 gears, coupled with the 4R70E gear set ratios, will NOT support 150mph with the STOCK tune. K&N, TB Spacer (a joke in its own category), and Flows will not add that much horsepower to the 250 the car came with. If you have the 3.27 or 3.55 gears (the only two options available in 2009), the computer limits top speed to 129mph and 124mph respectively. Now before you go bumpin' gums about how I am wrong, I want you to consider this right here: I own a 2008 P71 (same functional car as the 2009 P7B), and before my mods I could only hit 121mph before the car started pulling timing and fuel and stopped pulling at 129mph. Now, after the gears, JMod, long-tube headers, lots of suspension work, and a Martys tune, I am able to eclipse 135mph, where the cars aerodynamics work against it. Even the P71/P7B suspension is downright SCARY when the car starts to float. my next serious mods are to vent the trapped underhood air, add the chin deflector, and dial in the rebound on my coil-overs to see if I can safely break the 140mph mark.
  12. I have 3 questions for ya': 1) What tire size? 2) What rear gear? 3) What mods does the car have done?
  13. No need to be silly. You had 3 here and two down in General, all askin' about tabletop milling (and milking) machines (but they done seemed to 'disappear' in the last 24 hours), tabletop lathe, this here thread, and machinin' engine thread. Now we're at least down to two. Now, I'm not the only one who's been noticing this, and I a'int the only one who said somethin' to ya either. There a'int no hate or evil intent in my post, just statin' what's been noticed. My points still stand; you need to decide what you want to do, what you are willing to spend, and what your real expectations are. As far as you 'machining engines' thread and where to find info; that you get to figure out on your own. There are plenty of books available dealing with milling, lathe-turning, basic shop math, and the like. There are tutorials on YouTube and Facebook, there are seminars and webinars put on my the tooling manufacturers to learn how to use their tools. I'll betcha you a'int machining an engine your first pass out, even with the proper tooling. Again ain't no hate; just statin' the cold hard facts. Now, once you get all set up and cuttin' chips, we'll all be watchin'! ?
  14. Alright, I done kept quiet until now. You gotta quit askin' the same questions in 5 different places across two different sections. People here gave ya good advice, but it's on YOU to decide exactly whatcha want to do and are willing to spend. Go to Sheline, look at all they have to sell, and figur' out what you NEED. I'd love to jump in whole hog an smoke the better part of $4K on all their 'Mini Machine Shop' goodies. But I decided to start out small and go with what I really saw myself needin' for the time bein'. Research is also your friend, and half the operatin' questions I know you'll be askin' can be found right there on their site, or on a hobbyist machining forum. Again, I ain't hatin' on you, just wantin' you to get yer stuff straight and in order before these good folks run you off for not listenin'.
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