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yh70

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Posts posted by yh70

    Big rig PE ( CTM) help needed

    in Model Building Questions and Answers

    Posted

    On 12/10/2023 at 9:56 AM, tbill said:

    Hi all, I’m starting an Italeri Pete 378 and I have the CTM PE set for it. While looking over the instructions for the PE, I’m at a bit of a loss as to how to assemble some of it, as the instructions are a bit vague ( to me anyway) and I have no frame of reference as I’ve not used PE for this kind of thing before. Can anyone point me to a good video or some pics of a build you’ve done using said kit/s. Any help would be much appreciated.

    Tom i have not used that detail set before but if your on Facebook ask on my big rig group. i have over 5.6K members from all over the world and also the owner of CTM. someone should be able to help you...  Building Big Rigs and Construction Equipment Models

    Warped plastic parts - how do I flatten them out?

    in Model Building Questions and Answers

    Posted

    Boil you some water then set the part in it for 30 seconds. take it out and see how flexible it is. if it feels flexible enough set some heavy weight on it and let it cool on its on..if its not re pete for one minuet that should do the trick. but do test it as i dont know hot thick your part is, so the time may vary. i have straighten parts doing this before..as far as a heat gun thats a BIG NO trust me you dont want to even go their i ruined some parts using one..as far as glue get you some CA (super glue) medium or thick or some good liquid like Plastruct Plastic Weld..

    SAM_0099 (2).JPG

    Autocar ACX 8 x 4 Cabover

    in WIP: Model Trucks: Big Rigs and Heavy Equipment

    Posted · Edited by yh70

    27 minutes ago, Jürgen M. said:

    Glad you like my choice! 

    I won't make a garbage truck out of it though. I haven't decided yet. 

    One thing's for sure: the steering will work in both front axles. 

    Thought I might make a cement mixer or a mobile crane or something.

    Here are the first chassis parts:IMG_20231122_172229_144.thumb.jpg.78838d331af49ec9b4cfd2e01e8464ca.jpg

    Front suspension is being printed just now! 

    a cement mixer or a mobile crane would go really well with it since you have two steering axle's, but if it were mine i would go with the mixer...

    Square headlights needed.

    in Model Building Questions and Answers

    Posted · Edited by yh70

    23 hours ago, peteski said:

    Thank you for that very useful info.  I feel enlightened.  And as you see, they do have an email address after all.

    yes he does. and i talked to him to make sure its was the up to date one as he had moved..also he is not a full time caster so be ready to wait a couple months  ..but still again you members that dont run Face Book are missing out of so so much of new parts and 3D kits. yall would be like kids in a candy store..lol..

    Square headlights needed.

    in Model Building Questions and Answers

    Posted

    On 11/7/2023 at 9:49 AM, peteski said:

    Still, it is short short sighted of the companies to exclude non-FB folks. And I have feeling that there are more FB-averse people than you think, (and that percentage will probably go up). An email address is free to set up and maintain.

    but they not gonna set up a email address for the 1-2% that's on these Forums when their main business comes from Facebook.. ether you join or you miss out. and for all you that dont like FB yall missing out on a whole lot..

    • Like 1

    Removing decals

    in Model Building Questions and Answers

    Posted

    7 hours ago, peteski said:

    Non-water based paints (the solvent-based "stinky" plastic-compatible paints like Testors) have solvents "hot" enough to "bite" into styrene without a primer, but not hot enough to cause crazing.  When using those paints no primer is required (and I don't use it).  All it does is to increase the total thickness of the paint, which is not a desired thing. But the plastic surface must be clean.  I suspect that in the 13-year-old Bob's case, the plastic was not perfectly clean, which caused the paint not to bond to the plastic very well.

    you go ahead and keep on believing that a primer is not needed to get a better bite or better paint job..lol.. if i could see one of your builds up close i bet i can see ever factory flaw in the plastic. you do know they prime real cars metal, fiberglass, plastic or what ever they made out of today.. priming a model is not only for the paint to have a better surface to stick to, the primer will show ever flaw in the plastic. we fix them, we sand, we prime again to make sure then we water sand and paint..

    • Like 1

    Removing decals

    in Model Building Questions and Answers

    Posted

    12 minutes ago, bobss396 said:

    I just had to remove a few. I used scotch tape and gently pulled them off. I did some many years back, used freezer tape and the paint (no primer)  came up with the decals.

    the reason why was no primer..always prime so you have a base for the paint to stick to..

    • Like 2
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