Here's what I do for the photos (there is probably an easier way, but I figured this out by trial and error):
Create a file on your desk top called "iPod photos" or something like that.
Sift through your picture files on your computer and copy and paste a copy of the photos you want into that new folder.
When you plug in your iPod and it starts to synch, there is a tab called "pictures" on the iPod management screen that appears. Click on that tab and you will see a check box for "synch with contents of folder" or something like that (sorry - I'm not on my home computer right now to check the exact wording). Then, browse for the location of your "iPod photos" folder on the desk top. The next time you synch the iPod, it will copy those photos into your iPod.
I also have tonnes of model car photos on mine!
Basically, if you plug it in and play around a little, it should make sense with a little practice.
Actually, having an Apple iPod makes it easier than all that. Just plug it into the computer using the USB cable that came in the box with your iPod and it will auto-launch a set up application that guides you through it. It will install iTunes for you, and let you name your iPod. iTunes will search your computer for existing music and movie files, and add them to the library.
Once that initial set up is done, all you need to do to rip a CD is start iTunes, insert a CD and it will do the rest. To synchronize your iPod with your computer (copy any new music from the computer to the iPod) you just plug it in and it does the rest automatically. Just make sure you don't unplug the iPod before the snych is complete and it returns to the main iPod menu on the small screen.
I picked up an 80G classic about a month ago and it's easier to use than I expected. I've become a science and technology podcast addict now!
(Note: I'm running Windows XP on my computer, so other systems may differ a little)
Holy ######! I just did some more googlin' and discovered that the custodians of the car intend to bring it to Bonneville in August for Speed Week! Not to run, mind you, but to fire up the engines and celebrate the 50th anniversary of Mickey's first run in the car. I'm going to speed week this year, so I can take some photos of my own!! What luck!
Funny how these things work out. I'll have to buy another memory stick just for the Challeger I pictures!
I'm wondering if anybody out there can recomend a site or a book with some good chassis photos of the real car, either from the 60s or the recent restoration. I've spent some time googlin' but have only turned up a few, small photos that don't have the level of detail that us model guys like to see.
A while back when they resurected the Lost Drive-In movie nights, I emailed them to thank them. It wasn't quite the same without Bruce Dern's rambling and sometimes creepy wrap-arounds, but at least I had an excuse to watch Bullit again. Then it was gone. ######.
In my email, I also said while they were bringing back things that worked, let's have the old Psycho Cop ads back again! I loved those! Anybody else remember Psycho Cop? I love the one where he pulls over the Corvette driver and almost shoots him for having duct tape on his seat covers. Har!
FYI - If you do use clay to assist with your mold-making, ensure you are using a sulphur free clay (check the lable). Suphur in the clay will prevent the RTV from properly curing. I think Micro-Mark sells such clay, but I was able to find some at my local Micheal's.
I'm certainly no expert caster, but I think I would also strip the chrome off the original parts to be molded just to be safe. It might also be a good opportunity to clean up any casting lines on the original parts too, before you mold them.
- click on "My Controls" up at the top of the screen,
- scroll down along the left hand side under Options and click on "Manage Ignored Users",
- add "evilone" to your ignored user list,
- come back to this thread and refresh the screen,
it suddenly gets a whole lot less "douchey" around here. It's like magic! Results are immediate and guaranteed or your money back. Go ahead and try it out... the world will suddenly seem like a nicer place.
Enamel paint takes a VERY long time to fully dry (or "gas-out" as it's often called), especially if it's been put on in many thick coats as you indicated. I normally like to let my colour coats dry fully before starting on the clear coats. You may want to let that car sit for at least two weeks or more to let that enamel paint dry. If you start putting clear coats on top of paint that isn't fully gassed-out, you risk trapping the remaining solvents in the colour coat under the clear, which could lead to problems with your clear coat down the road (yellowing, clouding, or even peeling).
I have two pieces of advice for you here:
1) Let that body sit for a month before you spray your enamel-friendly clear coats.
2) During that month, start a new project and switch your paint system over to lacquers (Tamiya or Duplicolor products are great, easy to find and not that expensive). Lacquer paint dries much faster than enamel, is usually glossier right out of the can, requires less paint thickness for good colour coverage, and dries to a harder, more durable finish.
I stopped using enamel paints about four years ago and it was the single biggest leap forward in the quality of my finished cars in the 25 years I've been doing this.