Marc @ MPC Motorsports

Pace Paint Booths are all you need to know. They are engineered by someone with 40+ years experience in the field. Safe and efficient too. Be careful with a home made booth or you could end up like this guy. Paint Booth Explosion

I'm sure he's still around. He has decals listed on Ebay. His email is mofobow@hotmail.com

I tried and did not like the Bondo two part glazing putty. Do you have a Finishmasters in your area? Get some of their Smart Premium Finishing Putty. I paid about $13 for a two pound can and a tube of hardener. I have a thread on it here.

I thought the King Cobra was all that and then some back when they were new. I might try my hand at scratchbuilding one someday. Don't think it would be too difficult. Mine would probably end up looking something like this. Ben, I did receive your email. Just haven't had time to reply.

Other differences include different interior patterns(I think, can't remember without looking). The Deuce has a V6 and the King comes with a 351 shared with the pro stock kits. The King's body has the side moldings down the side that are missing on the Deuce. They share the front spoiler and side window louvers. The rear spoiler on the King is an exaggerated version of the stocker.

I would use the '63 chassis. You have great underhood details and that metal axle chassis will be much easier to get the stance you desire. I would not swap that '63 for TEN Thunderbolt kits!

Len, do you have a picture of what you are trying to replicate?

Ben, MV Lenses have a smooth foil type backing. I've never seen those photoetch lights you are referring to until I saw your post. Your only choice will probably be to order some from Modell Truck in Europe. That said, I use MV Lenses for headlights on nearly all of my models. Here's a few pics. They do look much better than regular kit lenses.

I have twice with no issues.

Model Car Garage has the Edelbrock Elite setups in resin and PE. Check your e-mail too.

Monty, Try Super Clean or Purple Power. It will get the chrome and the undercoat. Works for me!

I am happy to report that my preliminary findings are good. Mixes just like Evercoat, sands just like Evercoat. Can't tell the difference except for my bank account.

I was prepared to spend $30 for the Evercoat. When the clerk rang up the sale, I was shocked! I may just try it tonight just to see how it compares to the Evercoat.

I went to my local Finishmaster outlet on my lunch break to buy a new can of Evercoat Euro Soft polyester glazing putty. I've tried the Bondo polyester glazing putty in the tube and wasn't satisfied with the results so I went to get a fresh can of Euro Soft. They only stocked the large (5 lb?) cans but they offered me an alternative. Finishmaster is now large enough to carry a private label product and there's is marketed under the Smart brand. They sold me a 32oz can of Smart Premium Finishing Putty with a tube of hardener for $13.55 plus sales tax. That's about half the cost of Euro Soft!!! I'll be trying it soon, so I'll post an update afterwards. Check the internet or your local directory to see if you have a Finishmaster in your area.

Casey, I do not own either kit, but I recall the tires being Eagle ST's in the original versions. Unfortunately, like most Revell kits of late, the tires and wheels scale out on the small side. The look small for 1:25 scale and would be totally wrong for the 1:24 scale that you prefer. Marc

Three coats of rattle can (Tamiya TS-13 or Testos One Coat lacquers), wetsanded and reapplied would smooth out the tape line. That is common on any multi-color paint job.

Ernie, Drag City Casting and Scale Modeling By Chris both have this hood. Marc

Missing Link has a flat hood, but it is for the 1970-76 MPC Firebirds. A flat hood for the 1977-81 MPC Firebirds is on my to do list, but it does not have a high priority.

That's right, Mark. I have two 1978 annuals and they are just like the 1977 that Steve posted.

What other Aoshima wheel sets share the problem of the BBS's?

Did you buy a set or six of these when they came out last year? Were you a disappointed as I was when you discovered the rear wheels were wider than the supplied tires? Aoshima had access to the correct tires in some of their other 20" wheel sets but neglected to include them here. Well, I just sent Al Raab of Ma's Resin a pair of the rear tires from a set of Aoshima Gram Lights R57GT wheels. They have the same tread pattern as the tires that came with the BBS wheels, only wider to fit the rear wheels. Hopefully, he will be able to cast them up in the same rubber that he is using on his other tires. I also sent him a set of vintage Aoshima 18" Pirelli P Zero tires from their "wide rim series" from about 10 years ago.

Tom, This has to be the prettiest Revell Cutlass that has been built to date. Nice job!

Here's an MPC 1969 Camaro I built about 8 years ago. That's right, I said MPC!!! Enjoy!!!

I personally do not have any wheels available for these M/T tires. However, any 1:25 pro street or deep dish drag wheels should fit, like the Centerlines in the AMT Coronet Pro Street, the deep dish five spokes in the AMT 1969 Dodge Daytona Charger, and countless others.

You want to put on your photoetched parts after you finish painting the car. If you plan to clear your finish, then after that. Do NOT use super glue as it will fog your paint. Use an acrylic clear paint like Testors Acryl or Tamiya acrylic clear to attach the parts.