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Posts posted by Marc @ MPC Motorsports
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Thanks Guys! It'll soon have a Malibu grille too... Sometimes there is just not enough hours in the day!
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Missing Link sells a set but it only has R/T emblems.
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Jason, I know it is the "wrong" scale for you, but do you have M.A.D.'s '79-82 coupe body? The MPC Mustangs look more "correct" to my eyes, especially in the beltline area where the Revellogram appears to be a bit heavy.
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Switching to Dupli-Color.....
Switch to Duplicolor, Tamiya, or Testors. Save Krylon for crafts and other around the house projects.
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Good source for current Revell and a few AMT models, Testors paints including the One Coat and Auto lacquer sprays, CA glues, Excel tools and airbrushes. Use their 40% off coupons too.
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Interior with scratchbuilt gauge panel, shifter, e-brake and roll bar. Seats from AMT 1988 Mustang GT. Steering wheel and column from Revell '32 Ford. Photoetch pedal faces, window cranks and door handles. Photoreduced stereo head unit.
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4.6 liter DOHC engine modified slightly from the AMT Phantom Vicky kit with headers from an AMT 1988 Mustang GT.
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After a rough summer I've found the bench again. Here's a long overdue update on the Mustang.
Front featuring photoetched grille and fog lights. Rear with double stacked photoetch gas cap.
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$37 with shipping.
For $37 you would be money ahead just buying two or three more kits on the secondary market.
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Rom, I'm doing just that. After a rough summer with work/family issues, I've found the bench this weekend and will be posting some long overdue updates real soon.
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I purchased a brand new 1983 Turbo Coupe after I graduated from college in May 1983. I have the AAM body and plan to make a quasi-replica of my ride. I'll use the 1985-87 instrument panel but I can make the outside look right. Great job on yours!
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The AMT 2006 Camaro Concept is a full detail kit but if you want a model of the production car, you will have to wait for Revell to bring theirs out.
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Hope Matt figures it out but I wouldn't hold my breath. In this hobby, if you see something in the aftermarket/cottage industry you want, get it. Don't wait because you never know how long it will be available. Resin casters, decal makers, etc, come and go with the changing seasons. It's always after one shuts down that we go, "sure wish I bought that before they shut down."
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I think you will be happy with that. I did quite a bit of research before I built my booth and very nearly ordered that one myself.
The Pace booths are a bit light in the fan area falling short of the recommended 100 feet per minute, leading to some general criticism, but nearly everyone that I talked to that actually had one was happy with theirs. The only complaint I remember was someone with the largest booth (Peacekeeper?) and even he was pretty happy, just wished the fan was a bit more powerful (occasionally had to briefly stop painting to let it vent).
I've had my Pace Peacekeeper Deluxe for nearly 5 years with no issues. Never had to stop painting to let mine vent, although when I use automotive rattle cans like Duplicolor it can be a little overwhelming. I mostly use Tamiya and Testors lacquer rattle cans and I do airbrush HOK lacquers and hobby acrylics and have never had a problem with them.
I also run mine when I mix and use two-part body filler. It keeps the fumes from invading the rest of the house. My family is quick to remind me when I forget...
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'70 Super Bee/'68 RR/'69 GTX all use the same chassis.
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No, only that delivery was made. Signature required is an additional charge. The only time I've seen that used is from Norm Veber at Replicas and Miniatures of Maryland.
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You're on your own here. It does not exist and never has. But, you could be the first? Give it a try!
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I've used that stuff too and did not like it. Just spent $48 on a pourable plastic bottle of Evercoat glaze stuff. REALLY like it! Pricey but good stuff.
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Hey the paint and C/F work look great. Hoping you will keep going on this great project going!
Thanks!
I was out of town 10 days for vacation and now I am in the middle of an eight work day stretch of a 100 mile per day round trip to work. Plan to work on it again this weekend, so watch for more updates.
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Only ones I know of are THESE. At 10 bucks for 4 tires, they seem kinda pricey.
All of those are copies of the vintage Monogram Goodyear GT Radial outline white letter tires with decals for whatever brand you want.
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You would be better off with a Smooth On starter set. The Alumilite set at Hobby Lobby is a good value with the coupon, but the rubber is a 10:1 mix and the resin only has a 90 second window before it sets up. Too difficult for a beginner. RTV that is a 1:1 mix and a resin with a longer working time is a better choice. You will be able to make better molds and a longer working time gives you an opportunity to work out air bubbles. Start with one part open face molds and cast simple parts like valvecovers to hone your skills before moving on to more complex parts and two part molds. Follow the instructions.
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I like it! Restoring or restifying "Glue Bombs" is just about my favorite aspect of the hobby. I'll just re-post my last entry to the 'old' CBP board so others can see my thinking on the subject:
"I'm in! I have to see what I can dig up that I haven't already stripped and disassembled... Now I do have a 1965 AMT Corvair annual that I got started on a while back as a replica of my first Corvair, and I took plenty of "In The Works" shots of it since I was planning on posting a restoration photo album on another website (www.Motortopia.com, a general-interest car guy site. I run a model car group on there. Feel free to look me up oin there - My screen name on Motortopia is CorvairJim too). I had to completely replace the rear 3/4 inches of the body because some dumb-@** kid cut it all to hell to install a big V-8 in it! I cut the piece I needed from a donor body to preserve the rest of the annual body, with it's "1965" plate on the front and it's one-year-only 1965-style trim. I've sourced some parts from a donor reissue kit, mostly the chrome and glass because I don't have an airbrush to redo the chrome with Alclad and I'm too lazy to polish out the glass when I have brand new parts available! The 1965-only interior is being reused with the exception of the instrument panel (the Corsa part from the model was wrong for a replica of my Monza-trim level car). I'm using wheel covers that I got in a seperate deal on eBay. I had to use a donor chassis, but I modified it to replicate the way the chassis was configured for the original 1965 release, so it doesn't look like the reissue part anymore.
Of course, if this doesn't fit the guidelines, I can always come up with a "Plan B"... But I'll have to think about it. Whatever the case, the '65 Corvair restoration will continue, and you'll see it "Under Glass" before too long."
If you think the '65 Corvair roject is too far along to qualify (even though I have plenty of as yet unposted "In The Works" photos of it), just let me know and I'll dig something out of the many boxes I have of models I built myself back in the 1970's. Hey, that could be a cool sub-category: Rebuilding your own personal "Glue Bomb"!
Pretty much all I build as well. Count me in!
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Not necessarily. I've had builders from the early 1960's that were brush painted with Testors enamels that the "purple pond" would not touch, even after a month. It took ELO or Chameleon paint stripper to get that stuff off. On the other hand, I have successfully stripped Testors Flat Black rattle can from several interiors, a paint that is quite impervious to most strippers.
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I won an auction for four model kits and 10 days later the seller still has not shipped the kits. I contacted ebay a couple times and yesterday ebay finally got the seller to contact them. The seller just wants to give me my money back and keep the items because in the sellers own words "the items are worth 10 times what he [me] paid... I would rather take the negative feedback, return the money, and resell the items". I have twice refused a refund and since I have never asked for one he can't just send me one. So I am fighting it out with ebay. Apparently this practice is becoming more and more prevalent for sellers to do when they don't get the prices they want for an auction.
Sorry ebay sellers that is what an auction is sometimes you make your money and sometimes you don't. It's not the buyers fault. I won the auction fair and square. SEND ME MY STUFF.
Not sure what you bought or who the seller was, but, speaking from experience, you are fighting a losing battle. Get your refund, leave the seller negative feedback and go on. It happened to me once. It was from a seller who was selling a collection of vintage built models from his father. He didn't like the final price of the one I won and he refunded my money. Dad said that the model was worth much more than it sold for. I complained to Ebay to no avail.
A few months later, seller sells entire lot to a third party who proceeds to sell the models on Ebay. I won the auction for the very same model from the new seller and got it for less money than I originally paid. Take your money and be patient. You will find the same models again on Ebay and if you are patient, you will most likely get them for the same or less money than before.
Would like to know what the Seller ID is...
This is a Kia?
in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Posted
As someone who has "drank the Kool-Aid" so to speak, I recently purchased a new 2011 Kia Sorento SX crossover. It is an amazing vehicle IMHO. The car you posted about is a concept of a rumored future product of Kia that is a rear wheel drive sedan based on the Hyundai Genesis Coupe platform. The info I have read regarding future Hyundai/Kia products indicate this car to be the size of a BMW 3-Series. With the 275hp turbo 4 and the upcoming 334hp DFI V6 that will be available in the 2013 Genesis Coupe, this would be a wonderful addition to their lineup.