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    • Dave Ambrose

      Board Status   07/20/2018

      Maintenance completed, but there is still more come.


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About robdebie

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  • Location
    The Netherlands
  • Full Name
    Rob de Bie
  1. Technical question about pulleys

    Doug, many thanks! Rob
  2. Technical question about pulleys

    Thanks Tom! That makes a lot of sense. Rob
  3. Technical question about pulleys

    I'm building the 'Four stroke engine' by Airfix, and I'm puzzled about one small detail: the small pulley on the magneto ignition. It has a small cut-out, as can be seen in this Airfix photo. To me it doesn't make sense, but it's not a molding problem. Does anyone know whether this is a normal feature of pulleys? If yes, what's the purpose? Thanks in advance! Rob
  4. '77 Ford Mustang II

    Just checking: do you know that the lip that retains the tire on the wheel adds (usually) 1.6 inches to the nominal wheel size? So a perfect scale 14" wheel will measure 15.6", close to the 16" that you quote. Rob
  5. Need decals made

    In addition to the above: Pattos also has a sheet for this car, look under 'D': http://members.optusnet.com.au/pattosplace/home.html I also saw that US-Airfix issued a Paul Newman 280Z, but maybe you want to build a different version? Rob
  6. Decal Help

    I forgot to show pictures of the remainder of the steps. Here's the sheet as it was to be printed on an Alps: And here's the 1/18 model, as painted by Ralph Simpson: Rob
  7. Need decals made

    I just replied to another thread, showing how it can be done: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/130084-decal-help/?tab=comments#comment-1939199 It will also give you an idea of the time and the cost involved. Your car doesn't have too many markings, but I guess it will take between 5 and 10 hours. Multiply that by your favorite hourly rate, and add (say) 30-40 dollars for the printing. One way of reducing the cost is printing a few more sheets and selling them, but it will always be expensive. Rob
  8. Decal Help

    I once made templates of an Indycar diecast, to design decal sets for a dozen different cars. I applied masking tape to the model, drew the various edges and folds with a pencil (roughly). I then removed them and applied them flat to a piece of paper for scanning. Stretching the tape should be avoided as far as possible. Next I drew lines over them in CorelDraw, and this gave me my templates. I also did the wings and endplates, not shown here. Note CorelDraw: this type of vector graphics software is *essential* for designing decals. The various markings were then drawn, also in CorelDraw, without being bothered by the scale. Part of them could be found as vector artwork, the rest was done by hand, also in vector. Then the markings were scaled by copying them on the templates, using photos as the reference. You can even make a print of it, and attach it to the model for a visual check. For a Nascar body, that has mostly flat panels, this approach should work well too. It's an involved process, but the results are satisfying! And I repeat: you need to master vector graphics software, like CorelDraw. Rob
  9. Here's a view of my Sil-Air 20 opened up for oil replacement. Mine has a ring clamp for the 'lid' (that is not shown here), there are also versions where the lid is welded on, as is always the case in fridge compressors. You can see the vertical crankshaft poking out at the top, the cilinder is horizontal to the left. The cilinder head has a lighter color. The electric motor is down below. The oil level is about 20% of the height of the the casing. I'm pretty sure the electric motor splashes it around quite vigorously. The air enters the black casing through the pipe on the left, that has a air filter at the end. It also serves as the oil filling point, as indicated by the label. The air exits the pump through the long brass pipe at the top. Its length allows the motor to move around, since it is hung in springs. Hiding behind the plastic refill oil container is the rectangular steel air tank, and to the right is the pressure regulator with oil/water seperator below it. Rob
  10. Way back I ran a fridge compressor that had most of the oil poured out. Not very smart with regards to lubrication, but it worked well enough, for many years :-) Later, when I sawed the 'lid' off, I found out it heated up very fast, mostly because of the air compression. That created a smell of burned oil in the output air. I also ran it without the flap valves, and it did not heat up in that configuration. I now have a Sil-Air 20 quiet compressor hat basically also uses a fridge compressor. I'm pretty sure it 'inhales' its air from inside the black steel casing, where the oil is splashing around due to the electric motor turning in it. So yes, there's oil in the output. That also becomes clear when you drain the small air tank: what comes out is a smelly combination of water and oil. Of course there's a water/oil trap included in the pressure regulator, but frankly I don't think it works that well. Still, I don't experience problems that I would link to oil contamination. Rob
  11. What did you see on the road today?

    Last night the first of this years 'Cruise Brothers' meetings in The Hague (Netherlands) was held. We had excellent spring weather and big turnout of cars, I would guess around 200. I think they ran out of space pretty early. I'm posting a few pictures for your entertainment. Rob
  12. If you want to experiment a bit: try metal etching, either with masking or by dipping only the part that you want to etch off. I once did it with electricity (train transformer) in a salt bath - worked very well. The main advantage is that you can use spring steel wire, that is so much stronger than brass. Rob
  13. Work bench ideas?

    I built a modeling desk using 5 Ikea kitchen closet units / cabinets. I love the room in the 10 drawers, and the two top closets contain the boxes of project under construction. The table top was custom made, with a glass surface, and that is a limited success. It's scratched quite badly in the work area now. On the right I have a spray booth, that was under construction when I made the photo way back. Notice the VCR :-) Rob
  14. Found a very (extreme?) rare modelkit, dare I say it?

    Eric sent me the following information: "The RX-7 was Hasegawa's second 1/12 car model. The first one, the Nissan Z32 Fairlady (300ZX), had not been a success due to some QC and design issues combined with a rather steep price. For the RX-7 Hasegawa took a different approach using ABS for body, floorpan and load bearing chassis parts instead of a prepainted polystyrene body over a heavy metal chassis. Hasegawa then sent out pre-production versions of the RX-7 model to all Hasegawa importers and distributors and also to Mazda importers worldwide. I got an opportunity to examine one of these pre-production models at the Dutch Mazda importer. At the time Mazda-Netherlands also sold model cars and kits at their dealerships, such as the Hasegawa 767B and most of the Tamiya Mazda kits (RX-7, MX-5, 787B). The importers were thus given a taste of the kit before (hopefully) ordering some and they were also asked for their opinions on the model. The kits sent out for evaluation were deliberately incomplete test shots, to keep these free kits from interfering with sales of production kits later on. The test shots gave a good impression of the final model, but some key parts were missing, others lacked some details and some parts won't fit properly, as indicated in the accompanying letter. Some items are missing from the kit in the pictures, in particular the sleeve that was around the box. This sleeve was out of brown corrugated cardboard and had text and a line drawing in black on the top side. These sleeves were unique to the pre-production models and were not fitted to the production kits. Concluding, it is a rare kit, since only a few were sent to each country, but of limited value because it is an incomplete test shot that can not be built, so it may only appeal to collectors." Another small mystery is solved :-) Rob
  15. Found a very (extreme?) rare modelkit, dare I say it?

    Erik, don't move until you've spoken to Eric Verschuur, a fellow IPMS-NL member of you and me. I think he's the most knowledgeable RX-7 model collector around. You could start by checking out his website: Eric's Rx-7 Home Page I will notify him about this thread and ask him to contact you. Rob