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About robdebie

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  • Location
    The Netherlands
  • Full Name
    Rob de Bie
  1. Lotus Seven Replica - diary of a build

    No, the chassis was intended as a stand-alone model. I never planned to add the engine, suspension, bodywork, etcetera. The reason is that I've studying these 'Chapman' type of chassis for ages, trying to figure out the design philosophy. Building one in scale was very helpful. I started a similar-scaled Fokker Dr1 Dreidecker, but that one is stalled. Too many projects :-) Rob
  2. Lotus Seven Replica - diary of a build

    I scratchbuilt a similar chassis: 1/10 scale Locost chassis. It was a lot of fun, and less difficult than I expected. Unfortunately I made a painting mistake: most panels should be aluminum instead of steel color. Have fun with yours! Rob
  3. While searching for more information I made an amazing discovery: the photo that inspired the box art! I found it in the 4th 1976 issue of 'Autozeitung' on Ebay. AFAIK the car was not raced in this set of markings. Rob
  4. The roof modification could be tricky indeed. Especially since the rear window and rear 3/4 windows will not fit anymore. Here's a summary of what is not correct. I can add that the wheel openings are too circular, and the trim line should be removed. Maybe my 'problem' is that I like to tweak a model, to make it really mine :-) For example, I've been fiddling for years with a Monogram 83-85 T-bird to make a speedway version with reduced wheel track. The front model is the original, the rear one my modified body. It's still not ready, there's more to change :-) Rob
  5. Thanks for the photo comparison! I still haven't figured out how many body styles there were. The green one is a 1976 version I think, with a different air dam, rear wing and louvers in the rear fender. But the doors should be identical as you suggest. Rob
  6. Yep, it looks strange. I will try to find a better photo. Rob
  7. Thanks for your interesting comment on the tilted roofline! But could it be the C-pillar is too short instead? That's what I see when I compare the following two photos. Rob
  8. This model was handed down to me via two fellow modelers many years ago. The chassis was mostly built, but the body and glass were mostly untouched. There was no box, and not all decals were there. I worked a bit on the body, and noticed that it started to look really nice. However, older Japanese car models can be hit and miss accuracy-wise. Therefore I made the following six photos of the body. If there's anyone with a good eye for BMWs, can you please comment on the body's shape and accuracy? Many thanks in advance! Rob
  9. Technical question about pulleys

    Doug, many thanks! Rob
  10. Technical question about pulleys

    Thanks Tom! That makes a lot of sense. Rob
  11. Technical question about pulleys

    I'm building the 'Four stroke engine' by Airfix, and I'm puzzled about one small detail: the small pulley on the magneto ignition. It has a small cut-out, as can be seen in this Airfix photo. To me it doesn't make sense, but it's not a molding problem. Does anyone know whether this is a normal feature of pulleys? If yes, what's the purpose? Thanks in advance! Rob
  12. '77 Ford Mustang II

    Just checking: do you know that the lip that retains the tire on the wheel adds (usually) 1.6 inches to the nominal wheel size? So a perfect scale 14" wheel will measure 15.6", close to the 16" that you quote. Rob
  13. Need decals made

    In addition to the above: Pattos also has a sheet for this car, look under 'D': http://members.optusnet.com.au/pattosplace/home.html I also saw that US-Airfix issued a Paul Newman 280Z, but maybe you want to build a different version? Rob
  14. Decal Help

    I forgot to show pictures of the remainder of the steps. Here's the sheet as it was to be printed on an Alps: And here's the 1/18 model, as painted by Ralph Simpson: Rob
  15. Need decals made

    I just replied to another thread, showing how it can be done: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/130084-decal-help/?tab=comments#comment-1939199 It will also give you an idea of the time and the cost involved. Your car doesn't have too many markings, but I guess it will take between 5 and 10 hours. Multiply that by your favorite hourly rate, and add (say) 30-40 dollars for the printing. One way of reducing the cost is printing a few more sheets and selling them, but it will always be expensive. Rob