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      Board Maintenance   03/14/2019

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robdebie

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  • Content count

    58
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About robdebie

  • Rank
    MCM Regular

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    https://robdebie.home.xs4all.nl/

Previous Fields

  • Are You Human?
    yes
  • Scale I Build
    24

Profile Information

  • Location
    The Netherlands
  • Full Name
    Rob de Bie
  1. Paint stripping discovery?

    Here are a few photos. Shown below are the two main ingredients: sodium hydroxide (NaOH, lye and caustic soda in the US) and an ultrasonic cleaner. I used a drain opener that is a solution of approximately 10% NaOH in water and probably nothing else. I diluted it further down by adding water, to maybe 5%. From what I read, stainless steel is not attacked by NaOH below 65C, but still I put the NaOH solution a separate plastic container, suspended in the metal wire basket that comes with the ultrasonic cleaner. There are no liquids in the photo, I did not want to get my photo set-up wet! I think the wire basket can be left out, with the plastic container with NaOH solution directly in the water of the ultrasonic cleaner. There's not much to tell about it... Try it! And be careful with the NaOH: your eyes at risk, use safety glasses. Rob
  2. Paint stripping discovery?

    I used a 10% NaOH drain opener. It's a Dutch brand, so you'll have to look for a local equivalent. Please note that my model was painted with enamels (Humbrol), and I don't know how effective the method is for other paint types. Rob
  3. Last week I wanted to strip a ~35 year old Tamiya M23, and I found a new (?) way to do that. First I tried sodium hydroxide (NaOH) oven cleaner / drain opener, my classic method, that worked well but slow. I tried my ultrasonic bath, but that had hardly any effect. Out of curiosity I tried the combination too, with the sodium hydroxide in a separate container suspended in the ultrasonic cleaner. And that worked very well: all paint and decals were removed in 10-20 minutes, without the need for scrubbing. Everything was completely clean without any effort. Interestingly all glue joints also broke down during the paint stripping, a unexpected but nice benefit. Rob
  4. Photoetched Homemade

    Here's another tutorial: http://www.ratomodeling.com/articles/pe_home2/ My choice would be to draw the artwork myself, and then outsource the etching to a specialist. One example: http://www.graingeandhodder.co.uk/ Rob
  5. What did you get today? (Model Car Related Items)

    The old Heller kit (also issued by Union, Testors and Wave) is a quite accurate kit, the Fujimi kit is 4 mm too wide, which creates a far-too-wide windscreen among others. THis width error is impossible to correct, therefore I went back to the Heller kit. I decided to try to build it as accurately as possible. Some building experiences: I glued the tail to the center section, and added 1 mm plastic strip to increase the height a tad. This might also solve a common problem of this kit: the engine cover will not fit with the engine installed. I cut up the floor plate, so I could glue the sponsons (lower center body fuel tanks) to the top side, and made a cut at the front so I could glue the nose section to the main body. The latter cut is a bit difficult to see Another thing that I changed is the headlight cover shape. Right is original, left is modified. There's a lot more, but maybe this gives you an idea what can be done. Rob
  6. Glued parts seperation?

    Freezing the parts will probably help, you should be able to snap the glue joint, while cold of course. I've also been told that brushing Tamiya Ultra Thin over the joint will soften it, so you can break it. But I never tried that. Rob
  7. No problem, I'm an irregular poster here. It's a great forum! Regarding your review, I think I just found it: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/118409-73-mustang-kit-review/?tab=comments#comment-1715987 I will review it carefully and update my webpage where necessary, and add a link to it of course. Thanks! Rob
  8. I reread my web page, but I cannot find the reference to the AMT kit having the vent slots. I called them 'louvers' in the original version, but changed that to 'vent slots' in the updated one. BTW, I wonder whether some Ford prototypes had the vent slots after all. I checked my '1964 1/2 thru 1973 Mustang recognition guide', and on page 187 I think I see a car with the vent slots! Rob
  9. I recently made some vacformed gearbox tunnel parts, using our club-owned vacform machine. That worked pretty well. It's quite a bit of work to make the master though. Rob
  10. Thanks for the check, it's corrected now! Rob
  11. It looks great, amazing for a kit built with kit decals! Since you mention the track looks too wide: I'm working on a narrowed T-bird, with a longer nose too. Track went from ~62" to ~58" (front and rear), although I'm not sure that 58" was the real value. There still a ton of things to change, it won't be ready soon. Rob
  12. Old Photographs

    One slide scanning tip: let your software do an 'auto color correction'. I was amazed when I first tried it Rob
  13. Finding certain scale model..please help

    As promised: I went a little overboard with the 'liquid mud' but you're allowed to do that when you're 15-16 :-) Rob
  14. Finding certain scale model..please help

    I just found the old model in the attic, and I will shoot a few photos of it, warts and all :-) Rob
  15. Finding certain scale model..please help

    Small correction: the hood/bonnet and trunk/boot do open on the Tamiya kits, the doors don't. The engine bay is fully detailed, the trunk/boot too, with a fuel cell. The underside is also completely detailed. Very nice kits! Rob