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Chariots of Fire

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About Chariots of Fire

  • Rank
    MCM Ohana
  • Birthday 05/25/1940

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  • Scale I Build
    1/25 and 1/32

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  • Location
    West Wareham, MA
  • Full Name
    Charles L. Rowley

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  1. Hey, Brian: I forgot to mention in the PM that if you use the resin for the headlights stand the cab upright while the resin cures. Otherwise it will tend to droop and you will have a bulge at the bottom of each light.
  2. I think the Frog tape is a bit nicer than ordinary masking tape because it has somewhat less tack. I found that burnishing the edges well seems to work. As for the graphic tapes yes, they made all kinds and colors; the one that comes to mind is Chart Pak. Airplane modelers use a variety of tapes, or at least they did. I bought a roll of gold colored and used the 1/64 width for pinstriping on the '37 Seagrave. It came in a variety of widths on the same spool. The only problem is that the edges can pick up small bits of dirt and it is hard to get it off.
  3. lay down a piece of Frog tape on a glass plate that is clean. Use a ruler to cut yourself a strip to the width you want. What Mike 1017 says works too.
  4. Looks like you are in business! Sometimes things just come together!👍
  5. Here's what I did for the IH R190 a while back. While the mirrors are obviously different, the basic idea is still applicable to the style that the ALF needs. I did some research on the cabs to see where the mirrors were attached. The kit cab does not have a frame around the door windows where the bracket would be attached to. So the choice is to either have the bracket fully mounted under the window or, as they did with open cab rigs, mount the bracket in front of the window using the A post and the cab for mounting points. The bracket below is made of straight pins bent as shown. I drilled three holes in the wood block to mount the bent pins in. Then I soldered the place where the two pieces meet to get the bracket shown in the bottom right. Hope this gives some ideas that might work to get rid of those ugly mounting brackets in the kit. Here's how it looks on the IH R190. This particular type was also done with common pins. and still another.
  6. I did a tutorial on how to make mirror brackets a while back using long straight pins and a little solder. They were not hard to do. I'll repost here so you guys can see them.
  7. Tom: Do you decanter the Molotow or get the refill? I like the Molotow product as well.
  8. That price has gone up some. Latest figures are nearly $1.5 Million depending on the specification.
  9. This is an example of the tower that our local FD is looking at. Very impressive. It will also be a quint, as this one is.
  10. Whew! LOOOONNNNNGG it is! Local FD has been looking at a new tower built on a Pierce chassis. It's actually a platform that sits inside the length of the body and it is not that long. They accomplished it by making the aerial portion a 5 section unit. The bed portion is about 5 feet wide just to contain the other 4 sections. But what a difference it makes in overall length! It's a mid mount rather than a rear mount and the bucket sits in a lower section than the rest of the body. I'll try and post some pix. PS. Lookin' good, JT! BTW you going to look in on "The Return" on Saturday?
  11. Just curious. What is the purpose of the added supports under the first bank of compartments? I can understand fishplating the frame but you would not see that typically.
  12. Thanks, Guys. But there is already a "misteak"! The radius of the curve in the front is all wrong and pulls the front too close to the sides. I did some spot checking with the drawings and it stood out like sore thumb! So the front has to come off and get re-built.
  13. Hangin' in as they say. Covid sure has put a damper on things from church attendance to regular shopping! Getting back to the old normal is a must!!😆
  14. Hey, Dan! I just put the grill away for the winter! Getting cooler here in the northeast! Even the dog has his backside toward the heater this morning!
  15. I'm still working on the grill and trying to get it to the point where it will take some Molotow Chrome or Alclad. Every little flaw shows up and so it has to be nearly perfect. In the meantime work on the cab has begun. Cab side was laid out on 0.030" sheet stock and cut to shape. Window and door openings have been cut and the door lines have been scribed. This one will not have opening doors but the inside will still eventually be detailed. The front top of the cab still has to be shaped but the basics are now complete. I found some PVC pipe at a local hardware store that was about right for the corners of the cab. A small section will have to be put in each upper corner.
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