[[Template core/front/global/utilitiesMenu does not exist. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]]
  • Announcements

    • Dave Ambrose

      General Usage   05/10/2017

      If someone is acting badly, either in a forum or a private message, please report it. There are conveniently located buttons for sending the post to the moderators. 

Chariots of Fire

  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


About Chariots of Fire

  • Rank
    MCM Ohana
  • Birthday 05/25/1940

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Previous Fields

  • Are You Human?
  • Scale I Build
    1/25 and 1/32

Profile Information

  • Location
    West Wareham, MA
  • Full Name
    Charles L. Rowley

Recent Profile Visitors

8,111 profile views
  1. Anyone make a resin 1 ton dump bed

    Get your measurements of the length x width of the body floor. Square that up. Do you know how to use a couple of drafting triangles to get good right angles? Same technique for the back and sides. Photo 1 shows how to get right angles using a simple square. Photo 2 and 3 shows how to get parallel lines. First you place the bottom triangle on the line you have just drawn. Hold firm and place the second triangle up against it on an adjacent side. Next you hold the left triangle firm and slide the first triangle along it until you get to the point where you want to draw the parallel line. Want to make a line perpendicular to the two parallel lines? Choose a point like in the next photo and place the edge of the right hand triangle up against the line with the point on it. Now hold the left triangle firm and slice the right hand triangle down until the right edge is at the point in the next photo. Draw a line against the far right edge of the right hand triangle and it will be at 90 degrees to the two parallel lines. NOTE: The two edges of the triangle you are using are at right angles to each other so that is why it works. Use this technique to make the bottom, sides and back of the body. All you have to do is choose your dimensions. If you are working in 1/25 scale get a metric ruler that measures in millimeters. If you measure the real body in real inches there is no conversion necessary. For example a body length of 108" would be 4.32" in 1/25 scale. Since there are 25.4 mm in one inch there is an insignificant difference so that 108" would be 4.25". The difference is only 0.07"! Can't hardly mark that with a pencil! So just mark off 108 mm and there you have it!
  2. Loadstar Brush Truck

    The white stripes are actual reflective tape. I got some from a friend who worked at a municipal maintenance shop. I need to do the same thing across the bottom of the cab doors.
  3. Loadstar Brush Truck

    This weekend provided some time to get some additional work done on the Loadstar. The tank and body are still separate pieces which made painting them much easier. The tank was painted first and set aside. Then the front and side panels of the body were painted red. After the red was dry it was masked off and the rest was painted with engine black, a semi-gloss. Finally the treadplate deck was painted with chrome silver. I added the trim rings to the rear tail lights and now have to drill them out for the lenses. Next up will be to finish the front bar work that is still hanging out in space. In the top photo the winch cable is just hanging for now. It will be set in place once the bar work is done.
  4. Anyone make a resin 1 ton dump bed

    Why not scratch build one? There are plenty of images you can find on line for that sort of thing. And they are a dime a dozen out on the streets so they could be photographed and measured up. A bunch of rectangular pieces for the most part.
  5. American Lafrance Tower Ladder UPDATED 2-14-18

    That's going to be a LOT of truck!
  6. Loadstar Brush Truck

    Hi, Tom. I think they are Howe/Coleman front ends. And yes they were tough trucks. Several towns around here had them as brush trucks. They graduated from Loadstars to the "S" series and now to the Workstar series of IH rigs.
  7. Loadstar Brush Truck

    Body work continues to progress with side panels completed and the rub rails nearly completed. I did some drawings based on the measurements and photos of the actual truck and printed them out for each side, reversing the image so that it would be the same. This gave me templates from which to work. Even with that, there were some minor adjustments to be made. Things never work out exactly as expected but so long as things are within reason, certain changes can be made. Tubing is never the exact diameter as the real thing and it is not easy to get measurements along tubing that is bending in all sorts of directions. Nevertheless things are taking shape. The front bar is hanging out in space for now. The front bumper needs to be constructed and set in place In order to make the connections between the two surfaces. I'm thinking another trip to see the real truck is in order because there is a winch that needs to be built to size for the bumper. Treadplate has been glued along the sides between the rub rails. They are solid for now. Eventually they will be opened up as compartments with "D" locks. I'll use the same "D" locks from Don Mills Models for the tail lights also. If you drill out the centers and replace the center with a piece of red clear and white clear you have lights with nice round trim rings. The treadplate will be drilled out for the lights and the locks for a flat fit. The hose bed goes on top of the tank. There is also a filler for water and one for foam. I used 1/16" diameter rods for the upper grab rails. This not only adds some stiffness but some strength also which will resist the chance for these small rails to break. Similar rods will be used over the top of the cab and to the upper bar at front. At each end of the rod I ground it down to a smaller diameter using my Dremel with a cutting wheel. I rotated each end of the rod until I got a pin like end and then drilled holes in the mounting points to insert the pins in. The rods are now pretty secure and have nice neat connections. The body has been built up as one piece, making it easier for painting. The tank is still separate making it easier to get a nice paint job on it as well. Between the tank and the back step is where the pump/engine will be set together with all of the plumbing for the hose lines. Here's a look a the underside. The compartments have not been boxed in yet.
  8. Peterbilt 353 Off-Road Dumper

    What they all said! Pretty nice! Color is outstanding and the execution of the build is first class.
  9. Loadstar Brush Truck

    With the cab and chassis done I began the body buildup. So far it is made in three pieces that can be painted separately before assembly. With all of the ins and outs of the body pieces it would be impossible to get the paint in all the right places if it was assembled first. The sides will be built of treadplate with additional 1/8" diameter tubing along the bottom. Compartments for equipment are part of that assembly. Getting the fit right on each of these three pieces was important so that when they are finally put together the will look as if they were painted together. The tank will have a hose body above it along with the water fill and foam fill. Behind and below the tank will be the pump/engine for pump and roll capabilities. Lots of plumbing will be needed as well. Next up will be the front bumper. It may look a bit odd with the rest of the bar work as it is a left over piece of construction when the truck was first constructed by Maxim Motors of Middleboro, MA. When the truck was rebuilt a few years ago the bumper was retained but all of the rest of the bar work was made new.
  10. Pierce?

    See my avatar to the left? That is a 1928 Pierce Arrow 7 ton dump. The real one is in New Jersey. I modeled it when it was still at a truck museum in Connecticut. Here is the model in front of a photo of the real truck at the museum. The truck in the photo above is probably a much earlier version around 1918 or so but they carried many of the same features forward. The plate on the side of the hood says Pierce Arrow.
  11. Question about AITM

    Hi, JB: Dave Natale is a great guy to deal with. He is apparently really jammed up with projects right now. If you place an order with him he will do all that he can to fill it in a reasonable time. I did the IH Loadstar master for him and when I e-mailed him to find out how things were going that is when he said he is real busy. The Loadstars were actually out of stock as well so be a little patient and I'm sure he will follow through with an order for you. AITM always had a spot in the vendors room at NNLEast and it is always busy with customers.
  12. If you run out of options PM me. In the meantime here is one I built from Mill City piece. Grill was real bad. It was replaced with a brass one like in the photos. If you can find one of the Yat Ming '38 open cab pumpers you will have the cab detail, interior dash, and a flathead V-8 engine. I took the headlights and front bumper off one for the build above. Tires and wheels also came from that diecast.
  13. Loadstar Brush Truck

    The IH Loadstar cab and chassis are done. I paid a visit to the local firehouse where the real rig is located and got some measurements of the body and bar work. The side view is drawn up. Now I need to get the right tubing for the bars. The body will be built up in sections. There is the platform that the tank sits on together with the forward protection for the crew, the poly tank and the hose bed that sits on top of that. In the rear is a separate panel that hides some of the plumbing. On the sides are compartments that sit between the top and bottom side rails. The side plates and compartment doors will be treadplate. In the meantime here are some photos of the completed cab and chassis.
  14. Random Things Going On

    I like the S series kits too. You are right. Frames are way too long for most uses.
  15. Loadstar Brush Truck

    Work continues. Engine compartment is now done. Once the hood goes on much of this will be hard to see. Cab interior is finished as well except for the rear window. That's next. And here is the underside. That will get partially covered as well once the skid plates get installed. They are put on front and rear to protect the radiator, oil pan and differential. Stuff in the middle is pretty high off the ground so it rarely gets covered. Once in a while the exhaust system gets ripped off but that is easily fixed.