The Forums will be down, Friday, November 24th starting 8 AM PST for upgrade.We'll probably be down until 1PM PST, but it might be longer. I'm doing a major forum software upgrade, so I expect the forums to operate somewhat differently when we come back online. Update: I've had a medical issue come up, and this window might not get used. If it doesn't, I'll push the maintenance back to Saturday, 2 December.
The silver rim on the radiator was cut from a piece of Evergreen sheet after tracing the around the opening. It didn't look right without it. I also made a removable toneau cover made from plastic sheet. Also shown here is the drag link and drive shaft.
I wanted to mention a few modifications I made to aid assembly. The kit design expects you to glue the steering box to a semi-circle flange on the frame rail. That didn't make sense to me but also since my steering modifications would require me to cut a new hole in the floorboard kick panel and I wanted to be able to make minor adjustments during final assembly - if required. I ended up adding a small piece of Evergreen tube to the frame mount. The photos should explain it better. I just had to fill the original hole. I used two more pieces of telescoping tube for the upper part of the steering column. One piece which slides on above the steering wheel drop and another smaller piece that matches the diameter of the steering wheel hub. I also added a turn signal lever made from a ball-head pin. I know that's weird since purposely omitted other items like mirrors, windshield wipers, etc.
Thanks for the comments guys. I really appreciate it. I finished wiring the firewall today. Please note that my wiring is basic and representative at best and not meant to exactly replicate a particular car. I've included close-up photos of the starter and generator to show where the wires from the firewall will be inserted during final assembly. I used a small brass "eye pin" to attach the starter wire. The one wire already on the generator will be inserted into the "ignition" hole on the firewall. The fuel lines shown are place holders for now. The actual fuel lines will commence at the carbs and be cut to length. Coil wire from distributor will also just be inserted during final assembly. I've also included my wiring diagram.
Yes. It's the kit engine. One small drawback which was easily overcome is that the engine was designed to add a small electric motor which when not used requires the builder to add internal bracing to aid the assembly since the electric motor mounts are not used and would normally provide that bracing. Note that I treated the engine-to-frame mount piece as more of a cross-member and painted it the same color as the frame, bucket, truck bed, etc. Here is a picture of the engine front sub-assembly. Using the sub-assembly approach allowed for test-fitting the engine mounts to the frame before final assembly. You can see in the photo where I have scraped off the paint until I got a nice fit.
this is as far as I've gotten with the firewall. I moved the coil and master cylinder down from where the kit wants them installed. I need to add hardware to the voltage regulator and run wires. All wires entering the firewall will be hidden from the rear (interior side) by a panel covered with the black felt carpet. Also note that the pedals are mounted using a piece of threaded rod which allows me to adjust their location slightly. The clutch pedal in the previous photos will be moved a little to the left during final assembly. It was too close to the steering column.
I had to modify the wheels since the kit wheels didn't fit the Firestone tires. So I used the inner part of the kit wheels, drilled out for lugs, and the outer wheel from the Big T kit. Anyone that has used these tires probably know that they are a bit flimsy. This is easily fixed by making a "donut" from 1" thick foam rubber from the craft store. The wheels were sprayed with Tamiya Titanium Silver.
more subs. Right now I'm working on the firewall and wiring. I'm doing only basic wiring - starter solenoid, voltage regulator, generator, ignition, starter, etc. Also working on the intake manifold with six Stromberg 97's.
Thanks Mike. I've used this kit for parts on other builds before but never did a build up until now. I think it's under-rated. Note that I used very little chrome. The gas cap is most notable. It's a knock-off hub cap from the parts box.
I added a bracket to the frame (made from Evergreen square tubing) so I can mount the interior bucket easier during final assembly. It will mount with screws that will be hidden under a false floor covered with felt. Transmission is from the kit. Pinion yoke and driveshaft use 3-D parts from TDR specialties.
Interior panels are velour Contac paper. Carpet is adhesive-backed felt. Steering wheel is made from Model T outer rim (due to its smaller size) and the center spoke part from the kit's custom steering wheel. Moon gas pedal (trimmed down) is from Big Deuce. Steering wheel drop is scratch built. Kit pedal pads were made from pipe screens. Gear shift lever is 1/16" aluminum tube. Knob is a sewing (dress?) pin. Seats are from the Lindberg Tall T. Console between the seats was made to represent where the battery is (no battery in there though). Engine is kit Ford Y-block with a few additions from the spare parts box.