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Steve Osbourne

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About Steve Osbourne

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    MCM Friend

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  • Scale I Build
    1:12, 1:8

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  • Location
    Port Richey, FL
  • Full Name
    Stevie Disco

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  1. Thanks guys. Test fit pulleys, made alternator bracket and adjustment rod. Almost time to start permanently attaching assemblies.
  2. I apolgize for the redundancy. I just get excited when I start to see my vision start to take shape and I want to share both the build and the techniques that I use in real time. There are many professional and expert modelers here that have much more to offer than me and I have learned much from them. I'll suspend posting until I have something substantial to post. Thanks for the comments
  3. I finished the tail lights last night. I tried painting the back side of the back-up light lens flat white but it looked way too white from the other side. Also, the stem that mounts the lens shows as a small clear dot in the middle. So I cut off the stem and sanded the lens back smooth. I then used a Molotow 2mm chrome pen to color the back. Much better. I used the same pen to highlight the edges of all the lights, similar to an earlier C3 Corvette. The red lens' clashed with the maroon body color without the chrome trim. Next up is the license plate.
  4. The real car was photographed outdoors which greatly effects how it looks. Personally, I think it looks closer to TS 16 Yellow. The Corvette below is painted Camel Yellow and under fluorescent lighting it looks close to the photo. Chrome Yellow to me is close to school bus yellow.
  5. I use Tamiya TS colors from a can exclusively. They are a synthetic lacquer and are very forgiving. Problems with the finer colors showing scratches, you may want to use the Tamiya Gray primer (regular - not fine). It is much thicker than the Fine White or Fine Gray. Check out my big scale Corvette in the Big Boyz section. This was done with TS11 Maroon and no clear coat. I don't go higher than 600 grit sandpaper between coats. Instead, I try to avoid dust on the final coat and use Meguiars #7 Show Car Wax to smooth things out. Not perfect but works fine for me. If you let the cans sit in hot (not boiling) water prior to using you will have minimal issues. And shake, shake, shake between passes. I hope this helps.
  6. This might help. Since I migrated to Tamiya TS cans years ago I have been making paint chip cards when I try a new color. For the flat military colors I spray half of the paint chips with clear gloss. At least you can see how TS 67 compares to other grays you might be more familiar with.
  7. And here are the outdoor shots which show more contrast and detail.
  8. here is the window glass, after using a black Sharpie on the edges...
  9. I finished mounting the rocker panels, side scoops, front grill mesh and 'gascap'. The license plates (from MINIPL8S) are test fir on;e and will be mounted with mini-hardware. I may make rims also. I couldn't adjust the light to where I could get a good shot of the rocker panels and side scoops. I'll try and get some outdoor shots tomorrow, I also added some details to the tail lights and they should be ready to mount tomorrow I forgot that I won't be installing the window glass until final assembly. This is because I added studs to the body, interior and chassis that will securely join these sub-assemblies later with nuts. I'll be sure to point this out later.
  10. Thanks Bruce. I ran into very a minor snag with the mirrors. For some reason the Monogram engineers decided to put the mirror glass on the aluminum sprue instead of the chrome meaniung there was absolutely no reflection. I sanded the face and edges of the mirrors smooth and then glued some craft store mirror paper (ususally in the scrapbooking section of your LHS) and then used a black sharpie on the edges. I then glued the faces to the mirror body using black CA. Check out the new reflection... Note the 0-80 studs & nut on the mirror body which is how the mirrors will cleanly attach to the body.
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