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About Davoski

  • Rank
    MCM Regular

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  • Are You Human?
  • Scale I Build

Profile Information

  • Location
    Sydney, AUSTRALIA
  • Full Name
    David Thompson
  1. Sealed or open?

    Schrodinger's Cat?
  2. I use CorelDRAW for this. Look online for an early version (say, version 13) for download.
  3. Jaguar Rear End

    Just dragging this thread out to see if anyone has an update on a source of Jag Rear Ends....
  4. how to get figures to fit in cars

    Hi Miles, The reason for the difference may be that the fashion for driving position in rally cars has changed. In the 80's and earlier most drivers drove almost straight armed whereas from the 90's onward the drivers now sit VERY close to the wheel. So yes, you will need to "cut and shut" the arms and legs at Shoulder/elbow and Hip/knee. You probably don't need to cut right through the "joint", just cut a wedge from behind the knee, for example, leaving the kneecap in place. Then heat the kneecap carefully and bend the knee to the right position. You can then fill the remaining gap lightly with your filler of choice and file or sand to finish. For the hips you can also separate the torso at the waist and take a narrow wedge from the front, or even add a wedge from behind below the kidneys. The sanding doesn't need too be to fancy or accurate because it will generally look like folds in fabric anyway. Here are some examples where I have done this: Admittedly, these particular figures were 1/16 so a bit easier but they started standing up straight and I have done 1/24 and 1/35 successfully. See more pics here and here Hope that helps.
  5. 29 Ford Build-Off Project

    Hi guys, This is my entry to the Aussie Custom Modellers latest Facebook Build-off Contest. The theme was '29-'39 Hot Rod but, as usual, I wanted to build something out of left field. As a design concept I love SteamPunk and DieselPunk and this kind of look: And the work of DaxMan on this group: Whilst I am sure the organisers envisaged T-Buckets and Rat Rods, I had to do something different. I hope you like it. Apart from pinching some parts from my parts box, I also went to the local Two Dollar shop and bought some bits and pieces. I also just found some stuff around the house. For example, the round black pieces where the back wheels would be are tops from deodorant cans, and when I pulled them apart I found that the spray nozzle assembly was perfect for the lander feet, no modifications required to either part! I thought about weathering it but it wasn't meant to be a Rat Rod but more of a Show Rod. That said, I might still dirty up the engines a bit. I also meant to build the basics of a Drive In theater that I want for a future project but I didn't get far before the deadline: Work in Progress pics are here Link I hope you like it!
  6. Ummm......I just glued it on The base bracket is roughly a square so you just rotate it 90 degrees. I moved the steering wheel and pedals to RHD but didn't change the dash. Anybody who is picky about that would not be welcome at the Pub anyway
  7. Hi guys, I am sure most of you have built this kit at some point but this is one that I have made to go in a 1950's Aussie Pub diorama. Beryl in the passenger seat is part of a little story that the scene will tell. The rest of the diorama is about 90% finished so should only take me another 5 years or so to complete If you are interested the build sequence for the ute is here. I hope you like it!
  8. 1914 Stutz racer 1/16

    Hi guys, Most of you are probably familiar with this kit, quite basic and simple to build. I wanted to put it into a mini diorama and paint it as though it were a 1914 period black and white photograph. Not as easy as it sounds but I am happy with it. The biggest task was posing the figures and doing the cut-and-shut of the arms and legs, and I may yet readjust the angle of the heads. The WIP is here. This is the look I was going for: And this is what I got: Hope you like it!
  9. This is fantastic, Bob! Where did you source the Cibie Super Oscars? I need about 16!!
  10. I have a vinyl cutter and I agree with all the comments above about tracking issues. This would be the wrong tool for this job. The correct tool would be a laser cutter/engraver which would do the job in a few minutes. Either way you will need an accurate scale drawing in vector format (eps, pdf etc, not jpg, bmp). The common programs to use to do this would be Adobe Illustrator or CorelDRAW. I believe it is worth your time to learn the basics of one of these programs because this skill is useful for many types of projects. Look for a free download online along with YouTube tutorials, there will be other products as well. Have a look at my FaceBook page - David's Model Showcase - for some examples of what you can do with basic CorelDRAW skills. To actually get the cuts done look for a friendly Trophy Shop but negotiate to supply your own preferred material. The stuff they use for trophies and nameplates is different and specific to that use. Also, the cut might possibly result in a good side and a bad side. So, rather than draw just one side and cut it twice hoping to reverse one when you assemble it, copy and reverse (mirror) the drawing and cut a left and a right side. I hope this was helpful.
  11. Despicable Me. (We are all kids at heart!)

    Thanks for all the nice comments, guys :-)
  12. Despicable Me. (We are all kids at heart!)

    Haha, they have special movies now that come to you.
  13. Despicable Me. (We are all kids at heart!)

    Buy a printer, Eric, just a cheap one and persist with learning how to use it. It adds a whole new dimension to this hobby (see what I did there?)
  14. Despicable Me. (We are all kids at heart!)

    It is from one (or more?) of the Despicable Me animated movies, the movie that introduced Minions. Go watch it - you know you want to!