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      General Usage   05/10/2017

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About Davoski

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  • Location
    Sydney, AUSTRALIA
  • Full Name
    David Thompson
  1. LHD Gulf Seven

    This is beautiful work and I have really been enjoying you progress. I am especially impressed with your attention to surface texture on elements such as this transmission showing the different metals e.g. cast alloy, cast iron and pressed steel. And the amazing reverse side fibreglass effect on the nosecone!! This is something that many modellers seem not to consider, including things like the different gloss levels of cloth vs leather vs plastic vs metal/glass in an interior. To me, this makes a massive difference to the "believability" of a model. Can you enlighten us a little on how you do the cast metal effect? It is probably at the upper limit of coarseness for this scale and would probably be too coarse for 1:24 but maybe you have a suggested variation for a slightly finer finish? Keep up the good work....
  2. K&R Kustoms+Rods "barn find" dry lakes belly tanker

    OK, thanks for the info and taking time to reply. I will have a look at those websites and see how I go. Cheers
  3. K&R Kustoms+Rods "barn find" dry lakes belly tanker

    This is just beautiful! Your build thread was also great and very helpful but I would love to see some progress pics of the paintwork. Do you happen to have any you could post? Cheers
  4. NIssan 240Z - Aoshima

    This is looking fantastic, I can't wait for the next post. I had a 1:1 260Z back in the day, great car. Concerning the flares/spoiler I also recall that they usually had a more matt/satin finish. Is is feasible to coat them in a flat clear (which will probably come out more satin anyway)? Or a matt black wash? Keep up the good work!
  5. 32 Ford Jet Rod

    **** Sorry for the partial post earlier, Firefox or something is crashing my posts partway through. What I tried to say was:WOW, Dax, this is just fantastic, I love this DieselPunk stuff!!I wonder if I could respectfully throw a couple of suggestions into the pot for the detail you want for the undercarriage. For the hydraulic hoses have a look at guitar strings and fishing line traces (?) as well as the usual proprietary car model stuff, the scale is good and the price is cheap. Or find a friend with an electric bass! Also Google up Watch Parts or search eBay as there are guys in Singapore/Hong Kong etc who sell the insides of old watches by weight!! A few bucks for 50g if I recall. You get a mixed bag of hundreds of cogs and wheels but also brackets and other bits, usually multiples of the same bits so you can use them in pairs for LHS and RHS. Cheap, and one bag is a lifetime's supply.Keep up the good work with this, I can't wait for the paint!
  6. Thanks JC (and others) I Think the Monte Carlo will do the job well enough. The nose is pretty good and the droopy tail looks good too. I am sure I can live with the sweeping guards (fenders). Now to find a kit from somewhere else other than the US. For reasons unknown, postage for kits from US to Australia generally costs more than the price of the kit. :-( For those playing at home, this is for a Breaking Bad diorama with a scratch built Fleetwood Bounder (and no, the Lego kit didn't cut it!) Cheers Davoski
  7. Hello Brains Trust, Can anyone help with suggestions for a kit or kits that I could use to make something resembling a 1980 Buick Regal? The closest I can find is a 1987 Grand National, is there anything closer? For example, was the Regal rebadged as something else back in the day, and is there a kit for that? All suggestions welcome. Thanks Davoski
  8. Hi Eric, Here are the photoetch links (copy and paste to your browser, linking is not working for me?): www.instructables.com/id/Stop-using-Ferric-Chloride-etchant!--A-better-etc/#intro www.instructables.com/id/Printed-Circuit-Board-Production-using-UV-Nail-Cur/ www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234944044-how-to-make-photo-etched-parts-at-home/ www.ebay.com.au/itm/30cm-x-5M-PCB-Photosensitive-Dry-Film-For-Circuit-Production-Photoresist-Sheets-/322452881961?epid=680674256&hash=item4b13b08229:g:hMMAAOSwdGFYyP9x www.ebay.com.au/itm/Select-Size-0-01mm-1-0mm-Copper-Sheet-Plate-Guillotine-Cut-Metal-Copper-Sheet-/272563847500?var=&hash=item3f7612414c:m:mrNaBoAAKDRbA1GURZDyABA A bit more research and trial is required. Stay tuned... DISCLAIMER: This is not my info, read at your own risk. Caution: contents of kettle may be hot.
  9. Parking with my coe trucks

    Nice work, CustomBoy! Can you tell me where you got the figures from? Especially the guy and girl and the photographers. Thanks
  10. Eric, that bike is insane - a steampunk boardracer! Fantastic! I can't wait for you to start this. I want to do a model of the World's Fastest Indian which is not dissimilar in some ways and I need to steal some techniques. I also want to try some photoetching and have been reading up on simpler and safer ways with everyday materials. I have seen people using UV fingernail setting machines to expose plates and these machines are only $20! I will post up some links shortly. Keep it up!
  11. Wow, I cant believe I missed this thread! As usual, Eric, you are thinking outside the square! I have been using this same scan/draw/cut technique lately. These are detail parts for a 1/24 Tamiya Vespa: The parts were too small to cut and handle easily so I added "tabs" to bulk them up and to handle them with. I also added two holes in some tabs to take alignment pins to locate them when layering up. I guess this is the equivalent of your positive location points on your rails. The footrests turned out to be too fine to cut so I 3D printed them and they turned pretty well. I can't wait for the rest of this thread and some more great techniques, especially when you get to the bike. I see photoetched spoked wheels in my future.....
  12. Revell 1929 Model-A Roadster ArtDeco/Streamliner

    Hi Eric, Your build log was an inspiration and showed what is possible with imagination, patience, skill and the right technology. I would love to see the log "patched up" as a resource and reference asset. Watching your build inspired me to buy a cheap 3D printer, Laser cutter and soon a vacuum former. This has encouraged me to try things I would not have contemplated otherwise. But let's cut to the chase: when are we going to be treated to your next project?
  13. 3-d printers ... $180-$200???

    Hi 66, Yep, you are right, no comparison in quality. But Ted's initial question was about $200 printers rather than the resin dip style machine which I imagine cost quite a bit more. And I am sure my next printer will also be a laser DLP or whatever the next generation of technology brings. I have tweaked the settings on mine since I printed the example above some weeks ago so I will print it again now and post the result, I know it will be much better. As you know, there are a multitude of combinations of speed and quality settings and it takes some getting used to how and when to apply them. Please understand that I have no interest in getting into a keyboard battle with anyone. For the money, I am very happy with this machine. It was bought as a trial before spending serious money one day and is serving that purpose very well. I have learned so much from my mistakes that I am planning on making many more. I also think that Eric is correct in his comments, but judging by the quality of his work he is some type of advanced alien with standards that most of us will never reach! A budget printer will never keep up with his standards. :-) BTW, what program are you using for CAD? I have been using 123DDesign and am not that happy with it. As for source files, have you guys seen hum3d.com? Go there and drool! (Then read the fine print). Cheers
  14. 3-d printers ... $180-$200???

    Yep, that is why I bought it. In particular, I want to be able to make my own 1:24 figures because there does not seem to be much on the market. Fine detail is a relative term. At this pricepoint you need to commit the time to really learn how to tweak the software settings for each job to get the best result. You also need to be prepared to do some post-print cleanup similar to the preparation you would do on a bad kit - some sanding and maybe some surface filling. I need to play with high-fill primers as I suspect they might help, too. Remember, too, that fundamentally the output is only as good as the input so you need to start with a good file. Have a look at my Facebook page and then go to the 3D Printer Album for my journey of discovery. I am not into hours of sanding so anything you see there is straight off the printer :-) Yep, exactly. You can download some amazing stuff but if you get hooked you will want to design your own at some point. I admit that some people will never get their heads around CAD, it is a bit of an acquired taste and requires pretty good spatial awareness and visualisation as well as computer skills. As I said in my earlier post it is helpful to think of the printer (and then the CAD) as a hobby in it's own right. You need to put in that level of commitment. Haha. Patience, grasshopper, one day..... Cheers Davoski
  15. 3-d printers ... $180-$200???

    I understand the concept of not buying cheap and nasty, but... I bought an Anet A8 Prusa Clone a few months ago and am VERY happy with it. Check the specs and you will find that Prusa clones match machines many times their price, e.g. 0.1mm layer height. Yes, it is good to print some replacement/upgrade parts for it but this is part of the learning curve. Haha, can your toaster upgrade itself? My advice is to think about your 3D Printer as a hobby in it's own right. Devote some time to it and you might find yourself hooked. They are quite addictive :-) Also, think about where you are going to get the files for what you want to print. Yes, you can download almost anything but at some point you will want to draw your own or edit/modify someone else's file so you will want to commit to learning some form of basic 3D CAD program.This applies to any brand or pricepoint of printer but it is important to consider this or you might not get the best from your purchase. Cheers Davoski