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About modelman81

  • Birthday 04/06/1981

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    Josh Cody

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  1. Sorry for the late reply. Yes, I have used it on bodies. It doesn't require polishing but I tend to always get some orange peel on my bodies, hoods, etc so I always wet sand it with micromesh up to 8000 or 12000 grit and then polish out. It is an acrylic lacquer.
  2. I like Nason acrylic trim clear, part # 403-00. I buy it at my local Oreilly’s.
  3. I have used ultra fine tipped sharpies over it to make turn signals (yellow and orange sharpies) and taillights(red sharpie) with no problems. I let the Molotow air dry around 2 hours and then put in the dehydrator overnight and then applied the sharpies.
  4. I had also noticed that my Molotow pen mainly the 1mm, was not flowing as well as it once did and the chrome didn’t seem as shiny as before. So what I did was pull the nib out, remove the chrome piece, unscrew the black part and remove the clear round thing with the spring in the center where you would refill the pen at and I soaked all the pieces in 91% isopropyl alcohol. I also put some of the alcohol in a spray bottle so I could spray the nib down good and remove all the chrome from it. Doing this turns the nib back to a white color. After everything was completely cleaned and dried good I put it back together. When you do this it’s just like opening up a new one. You have to shake well and prime the nib again by pushing down on it a few times. Doing this restored its performance back like it was brand new again. So, if your pen stops working properly for you, maybe try this out. Hope this helps someone.
  5. Duplicolor primer sealer part# dap1699. I haven’t had any problems with this primer crazing the newer plastic.
  6. Get you some gray scotchbrite pads and gently pull the wire through the scotchbrite a few times. This will knock the glossiness down without removing the coating.
  7. It's labeled now as "pledge floor care finish" 2X more shine. Multi surface finish. Part# 746860. Bar code# 46500 00182.
  8. Try the Napa Colorline brand labeled primer. Part # DC540. Pay no attention to the application instructions on the back of the can, as they read like it's an enamel due to the recoating times. It's a lacquer based though. You can practically watch it dry as your spraying it. It can be dry/wet sanded in 10-15 mins. Plus, it's only like $4.50 a can. Hope this helps. The primer jwrass was referring to is very good as well. But you can't go wrong with the Napa brand. It's in a white can with blue and black writing.
  9. Hey guys I'm new to the forum but I'd like to share a little info I've come across using testors metalizer, specifically the aluminum plate buffing version. I've found with the aluminum plate buffing metalizer that you can clear over it without losing your buffed effect/finish. I had to let it cure/gas off for around 3 weeks-1month. The clear coat I used is nason 403-00 acrylic trim and jamb clear. It comes in a rattle can and I got it at my local Oreillys auto parts. It will be in the back behind the counter. You'll have to ask for it. Hope this helps.
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