TimStangohr
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Posts posted by TimStangohr
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I hope to make the wheelcovers available soon. A man is helping me design them now. I will let you know as I get further along with the project.
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The Maverick kit by Missing Link was reviewed positively here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/74529-missing-link-resin-maverick/?page=1
That Maverick has the chassis and interior.
For the glass, I use Evergreen styrene sheet. Available at any online hobby store. I actually use it on many of my other plastic kit builds, as kit glass tends to look thick and wavy.
Resin kits from top notch manufacturers are not much extra effort to build. The porcelain white colored resins are really nice. They tend to have no warping, minimal flash to clean up, and clean detail lines. Then again, there are also bad apples in the barrel too. I don't tend buy a resin kit unless I have read a positive review on it.
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It looks like a super well done kit. $150 is not a lot of money for what it is.
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The castings looks nice but as many here has said, a little too much for my wallet.
One thing that cought my eye...for a Futureliner to look right it should have dual tires in all 4 corners as the real thing had...8 wheels in total.Robert, you could offer the option of a second set of tires for it.
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Also they were saying that as a general rule the plastic parts are not shipped fully cured. As a result, they can be sticky when painted. The best recommended way to get them cured is with UVA light. Incidentally, reptiles in captivity need UVA light to function at their best, so you can pick up a UVA bulb at a pet store, or, on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Reptispa-Basking-Spot-Lamp-Watts/dp/B00U1WOFRG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1479525648&sr=8-4&keywords=uva+bulb
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Looking good. Do you plan to paint this? I was reading on the forums some about the topic of "post production finishing". All of the frosted parts have vegetable oil sprayed on them to give the plastic more clarity. It is recommended that they be washed in a tub of dish soap and scrubbed with a toothbrush. Guys were saying that soaking overnight helps, and adding some vinegar will help break up the oil even more. They say that some solvents will attack polyacrylics. But some guys have used some pretty harsh chemicals on the printed parts (which would attack/destroy styrene). They don't attack the polyacrylics in the short term, but who knows about the long term.
They had also said that clearcoating the parts helps fill print lines. And it can give the paint "tooth", if you plan to paint them.
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All the discussion on this thread so far has been about the Ford, but none on the Chevy. If you are curious to know what other guys are up to, here is a Caprice: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-90-Chevy-Box-Caprice-4dr-Euro-front-resin-kit-lowrider-/112208678629?hash=item1a20288ee5:g:pb0AAOSwgZ1XtzJc
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Robert, here is a though that may get you past the snag on your grille design. What if you had a photo etched grille made? Micro Etch Technologies does work for individuals.
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You all have been perfect help. I compared around and I think the Revell 1:24 GMC plow truck will work best. All of them are 35-40 year old designs, so I don't expect perfection. I am a showroom stock kind of guy, so I want a bench seat, which is a vote against the Deserter kit. The Deserter has quite a sink mark in the bed side. The stock bumpers in the plow truck kit are nice. I want to build a few of them in different factory two tone color schemes. Thus it will be necessary to add the side trim, which will have to be scratchbuilt. I have ordered a few Revell 1:24 GMC plow trucks.
I will also scratchbuild door panels. None of these old tools had decent door panels.
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Also, is there a decent 8 inch rally wheel available in any kits?
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Thanks guys. I have spent late nights reading on the board, and the talent here is nothing short of amazing. Charlie, your passion shines through :-)
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What is the most accurate '73 to '87 kit out there? I just bought a Revell '77 GMC Wrecker Truck and was far less than impressed. The visor, sunroof, mirror holes, and incorrect rear window lower edge make this cab unuseable. Not to mention the cast-in engine block... However it was worth the price of admission for the one ton wheels and tires. Those are particularly difficult to source.
What other pickups are out there which are more correct? I want to stay as stock as possible. I have the most interest in 1973 to '80 model years, prefer a 2WD if there is one, and I am okay with kit bashing.
New guy here, so I hope I am not rehashing a question that has been answered before. But in my defense, I did multiple searches here and did not find the topic.
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About 8 or 9 AMT '53 Ford pickups. I build one as a yellow kustom show truck with the kit stock canted headlights, and one as a beater. Those two projects sold me on the versatility of this kit. I was mesmerized by the torch and tool set as a junior higher when I bought my first one.
The step side bed was used for the next four generations of these trucks, so I wanted to have a few extras around. The rest of the kits remain unbuilt... but not for long.
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I built model cars and trucks as a kid, back before the days of photoetched saws, haha. I loved to make weathered beaters, I remember saving flood silt (the finest dirt there is) and using it to make mud for a farm truck build. All of the model stuff got packed up once I got my driver's license at age 15. Right now I am scaling down my full time career to make time for modeling again. My 7 year old is interested. These seem to be exciting days for the hobby as a whole. Would most of you share that feeling?
1/25th scale Futurliner
in Car Aftermarket / Resin / 3D Printed
Posted