Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


About Rusty92

  • Rank
    MCM Ohana

Previous Fields

  • Are You Human?
  • Scale I Build

Profile Information

  • Location
    Ohio, Illinois
  • Full Name
    Jacob Bonnell

Recent Profile Visitors

2,332 profile views
  1. Ahh the ‘56. My favorite of the tri-fives!! Fantastic work!
  2. I built this kit as well. It was a challenge for me, I wish I would have taken more time. You’ve inspired me to pick it up and give it another go! I am enjoying your work as always!
  3. This was some excellent information. Thank you for sharing.
  4. @HJK, thank you for the kind words. I will try to list out my steps as best as possible, if you have any questions on steps that may be unclear, please feel free to ask. 1) all body parts are primered in AK Interactive surface primer - rust. It is a very runny primer so I usually do several light layers. No more than 3 so I don’t lose detail. 2) I take a sponge (I prefer the yellow ones you can get at craft stores) and cut off a chunk, and distress the edges to create a random edge. After doing that I apply a variety of AK or Mig paints via the sponge. I use these 3 most often it seems, but they make a ton as I’m sure you know. As they say, a dab will do you. Make sure your sponge is not too saturated, change up how you hold it and where the it makes contact with the model. You’ll want to take a picture of this to use in step 5. 3) Once that layer of paint has dried for a few days, give the model 2 light coats of hair spray and allow that to fully dry. Don’t worry if it goes on a little heavy, you can wipe it off and it will also evaporate a little bit. Cheap hairspray will work just as well as the high dollar stuff! 4) The hairspray should be dry after about an hour or so. Then you can paint the model/part your color of choice as you normally would. Or keep it lighter in some spots if you please to give it a faded look. 5) let the paint dry for a few hours (maybe more depending on your paint) and begin chipping away at the layer of paint you just applied. Reference the photo in step 2 to focus on chipping the paint off where the rust was created underneath. To chip paint, I recommend doing a YouTube search, or clicking Here. I use water when the paint is coming off easily, and thinner when it is putting up a fight. It really depends on the paint and cure time. You can accomplish chipping with a stiff brush, or a soft brush and cutting off the hairs almost down to the nub. Here is a brush that I use to do my work. It can be quite aggressive at times so be careful. You can go through the hairspray and primer if you’re too rough. Below is the brush I use: 6) After this I apply a variety of washes to the model. Rust streaks are accomplished by making vertical lines down the model with the rust enamel wash, and later blending them with white spirits. I watched This video to learn how to do this effect better. It is really handy. And if you goof it up, just wipe it up with some spirits and try again. You can put on the rust lines thick like in the video and “neck” them down to a smaller streak. For washes, I will liberally coat the model with track wash and let it sit to dry just a bit. Then I blend the wash better with enamel spirits, eliminating any brush marks along the way.
  5. Mock up. Still need to weather the bed a bit more. The 6 lug wheels are not out of paint yet so not pictured here.
  6. Thanks for the heads up. I ended up getting a set from the Black Widow ‘57 Chevy. I originally did not know until I saw a for sale listing for a bed and it mentioned “no cracks.” The wheels got to turning and I figured they were fiberglass. Pretty cool!
  7. Working on some weathering today. I also got the white airbrushed on last night. The bed is lighter than the cab because the bed is fiberglass, and this truck would be sitting outside so the sun would really get to it. I have not weathered the passenger side yet.
  8. Some members find it more interesting to try and make every post or thread funny, thus derailing the entire thing.
  9. New Revell kits are sealed with the circle shaped piece of tape. Hobby Lobby kits have had those for a while now.
  10. There’s no reason to berate another forum member the way you do. Just let it go. Doug shared his post with a photo of the wrecker and they said it was coming out. And honestly, I would have believed it as well. I still do believe that it is coming. Perhaps your distributor information is wrong? Give it a break. You’ve disrupted a perfectly good thread with your rude behavior. FWIW 61.99 euros to USD is about 66.75. Not 62. Gosh I hate that misinformation that people spread here
  11. Why are you so upset about this? It will be okay. It’s just plastic.
  • Create New...