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Rusty92

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Everything posted by Rusty92

  1. Got the remaining wall framed up and started putting on the siding. Thanks for looking!
  2. Getting back to this one. No progress since the last photo. Should have some updates later today!
  3. Good to know. I definitely want to build another of these… someday, not soon though! Today I accomplished: finished the wheel and tire weathering (except for one hubcap that I need to fill up a bit more), started weathering the engine, and did some weathering to the bed floor, box tub, and tailgate. I think I forgot the “less is more” mantra and the model is a bit more weathered than I intended, but it’s still good.
  4. That’s a great idea. I thought about doing something similar but obviously decided to not do so. On the next Cameo I do I’ll clean it up more.
  5. Today I got some work done on the wheels and seats. I also installed the glass, which is too small for this kit and barely fits in the opening. This kit is pretty good, but I think it leaves a lot to be desired. Here it is sitting on its 6 lug wheels. I will black-wash these to help the details stand out more. For the seat I started with just black seats and some “duct tape” which I made from Tamils masking tape painted silver. I will add these back later, but these alone were not enough for me. The interior needs to match the exterior and look a bit more beat-up. I roughed up the seats, added some scratches to simulate tears or cracks, I’ll add more when it’s painted. Making fine cracks prior to painting wouldn’t be wise as the paint will fill in the details. After they were roughed up I applied yellow and ochre brown with a sponge to give a random patter for the foam. Once dry, I’ll use my chipping technique to simulate tears.
  6. Can’t forget the oil! It’s a good song. A little bit of progress tonight. I used the hairspray method to chip my inner fenders. I did not go overboard with the rust effects. I’ll let it dry a bit more and dry brush some more dirt and grime on to it.
  7. Thanks everyone for the encouragement! I got a little bit done tonight. There are two obvious flaws in my paintwork on the cab. Thanks to my fat fingers! I was able to tackle the one on the cowl tonight, and I think it turned out pretty good. Good enough for me anyways. After all, the hood will be closed most of the time. See below: Hopefully tomorrow I’ll have some time to work on the back of the cab. I also got the inner fenders and core support painted. Not worried about the uneven lines as they will be blended with washes, grime, and other weathering materials. Thanks for stopping by and checking it out!
  8. Not much change since one year ago. Finally got my new desk set up and I’m ready to finish this one. I have to order some paint but this will be one of the first to get done. Her it sits now. I do have 6 lug wheels, just not painted yet.
  9. Today I finally got my hobby room set up at my new place. I haven’t really built a model in over a year and haven’t completed one in probably closer to two. I hope to get back into the hobby soon! I need to re-decorate the room I think haha!
  10. This is a great tip. Thanks for sharing.
  11. Ahh the ‘56. My favorite of the tri-fives!! Fantastic work!
  12. I built this kit as well. It was a challenge for me, I wish I would have taken more time. You’ve inspired me to pick it up and give it another go! I am enjoying your work as always!
  13. This was some excellent information. Thank you for sharing.
  14. @HJK, thank you for the kind words. I will try to list out my steps as best as possible, if you have any questions on steps that may be unclear, please feel free to ask. 1) all body parts are primered in AK Interactive surface primer - rust. It is a very runny primer so I usually do several light layers. No more than 3 so I don’t lose detail. 2) I take a sponge (I prefer the yellow ones you can get at craft stores) and cut off a chunk, and distress the edges to create a random edge. After doing that I apply a variety of AK or Mig paints via the sponge. I use these 3 most often it seems, but they make a ton as I’m sure you know. As they say, a dab will do you. Make sure your sponge is not too saturated, change up how you hold it and where the it makes contact with the model. You’ll want to take a picture of this to use in step 5. 3) Once that layer of paint has dried for a few days, give the model 2 light coats of hair spray and allow that to fully dry. Don’t worry if it goes on a little heavy, you can wipe it off and it will also evaporate a little bit. Cheap hairspray will work just as well as the high dollar stuff! 4) The hairspray should be dry after about an hour or so. Then you can paint the model/part your color of choice as you normally would. Or keep it lighter in some spots if you please to give it a faded look. 5) let the paint dry for a few hours (maybe more depending on your paint) and begin chipping away at the layer of paint you just applied. Reference the photo in step 2 to focus on chipping the paint off where the rust was created underneath. To chip paint, I recommend doing a YouTube search, or clicking Here. I use water when the paint is coming off easily, and thinner when it is putting up a fight. It really depends on the paint and cure time. You can accomplish chipping with a stiff brush, or a soft brush and cutting off the hairs almost down to the nub. Here is a brush that I use to do my work. It can be quite aggressive at times so be careful. You can go through the hairspray and primer if you’re too rough. Below is the brush I use: 6) After this I apply a variety of washes to the model. Rust streaks are accomplished by making vertical lines down the model with the rust enamel wash, and later blending them with white spirits. I watched This video to learn how to do this effect better. It is really handy. And if you goof it up, just wipe it up with some spirits and try again. You can put on the rust lines thick like in the video and “neck” them down to a smaller streak. For washes, I will liberally coat the model with track wash and let it sit to dry just a bit. Then I blend the wash better with enamel spirits, eliminating any brush marks along the way.
  15. Mock up. Still need to weather the bed a bit more. The 6 lug wheels are not out of paint yet so not pictured here.
  16. Thanks for the heads up. I ended up getting a set from the Black Widow ‘57 Chevy. I originally did not know until I saw a for sale listing for a bed and it mentioned “no cracks.” The wheels got to turning and I figured they were fiberglass. Pretty cool!
  17. Working on some weathering today. I also got the white airbrushed on last night. The bed is lighter than the cab because the bed is fiberglass, and this truck would be sitting outside so the sun would really get to it. I have not weathered the passenger side yet.
  18. Some members find it more interesting to try and make every post or thread funny, thus derailing the entire thing.
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