Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

ibj40

Members
  • Posts

    316
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

Previous Fields

  • Are You Human?
    Yes
  • Scale I Build
    1/18

Profile Information

  • Location
    Texas
  • Full Name
    Jim Forte

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

ibj40's Achievements

MCM Avid Poster

MCM Avid Poster (5/6)

  1. Thanks, that is what I thought. I did the first one, and used all of them, but really couldn't tell what the white under-decals contributed. IMG_E3856 by Jim Forte, on Flickr IMG_4151 by Jim Forte, on Flickr
  2. Recently I have acquired a couple of decal sets that have a color sheet and a white sheet. It is clear that where there is only white, that is the decal to apply. But, on the white sheet, there is also a background for decals on the color sheet. My question is, do I need to apply the white decals under the color decals in order to get the proper color depth over a colored background? Thanks!
  3. Thanks for your patience! Build thread here.Just in time to pair it up with one of the ACME Ramp Haulers.
  4. Thanks for the picture, Mike! That is amazing and gives a little bit more credibility to my fantasy build. And that is clearly King Richard himself! Well, Happy New Year to all who are following this build.I've put the engine install on the backburner while I figure out headers.So, instead I did a hard dry fit of all the other parts and pieces of the model, in order to go ahead and apply decals soon.Added a pedal assembly that the Plymouth interior didn't have. Doors will eventually be glued closed.Still need to fabricate a fuel filler.Got the engine installed, and the carb and air cleaner in place. Still need to install the top water hose from the engine to the radiator.And the hood stays open by itself (unusual for me on one of these body/chassis swaps).Just need to figure out how to connect the engine to the exhaust dumps. Already have a driveshaft roughed together, just need to cut it to length.The package tray for the Roadrunner interior didn't extend back to the rear window of the Torino, so I placed a thin sheet of aluminum in the void.
  5. Would love to see those pictures, however don't make yourself crazy trying to find them. Thanks for the compliments, feedback is really appreciated.
  6. In the process of owning and (occasionally) racing four different race cars, I've taken delivery of my share of long blocks.They all, more or less, looked like this.Usually, I knew they were going to fit into the chassis, as I raced Chevy Smallblocks exclusively.Hoping for the same luck with this GMP 429 with a dry sump pan and drive from an Ertl Nascar Ford going into an Ertl Torino chassis.Happy New Year!
  7. So, how did we achieve the new dry fit?By going dry sump!Prior to 1969, my exposure to Nascar racing had been through Wide World of Sports, so I knew very little other than what ABC, Jim McKay, and Chris Economaki wanted me to know.In 1969, Texas International Speedway opened with inaugural Texas 500.As president of the Texas A&M Sports Car Club at the time, I had an ongoing relationship with the track.One day I got a phone call asking if I knew of anyone who would be interested in pumping gas for Union 76 during race events. I volunteered myself, and then started looking for others to join me.My job was to pump gas and give out lubricants to the Nascar teams.The Union 76 reps (which included Bill Broderick) gave us a list of teams, showing what kind of oiling system they were using.If a team was still using wet sump, we were to give them eight quarts of oil whenever they requested it, but the newer, more advanced teams using dry sump would get an entire case.So, now equipped with the knowledge that dry sump was in existence during the era of this fantasy build, I looked around on my shelves and found an 1/18 scale Nascar chassis with a dry sump setup.So I salvaged a pan and drive system and removed the bellhousing and transmission from the GMP wet sump pan.With the dry sump pan taped in place, looks like we might have a winner! Found a dry sump tank in the spares bins, as well, so it will be mounted in the appropriate location in the interior.Got to wait on some paint to dry, then we have to take courage and SuperGlue in hand and assemble the engine.
  8. This is a new dry fit.Looks pretty good.That is, if you leave this minor component off.A little more work required.
  9. Good discussion on what we face when customizing 1/18 scale diecast. No offense intended to our 1/24 scale plastic kit brethren, but when your shop floor is littered with metal shards, and you realize that the part you just “modified” is both not going to work and was the only one you had, me, I just go back inside my house and grab another beer. Stay the course Mike!
  10. Thanks for your support and positive comments! Trying make some progress, but seems like it is one step forward, three steps back.Got the header flanges ground down. The one on the right was the Guinea Pig, but when it is glued to the head, won't be noticeable.Dry fit from the bottom looks good.Dry fit from the top shows that a lot of work needs to be done.If you remember the engine crossmember from a few posts up, I already removed a considerable amount of plastic, including a stalk that the Ertl engine was attached to.Looks like a lot more surgery will be required to get the GMP 429 to sit flat.Was hoping not to have to remove the radiator, but that may be my only access point.
  11. On Christmas Day, it is 82 degrees here. My paint booth is my front driveway, so I had to take advantage of the weather and put down a couple of coats of paint.There will be a couple of coats of clear, as well, and temps are above 70 from now until new Sunday.What do you think? Might be a little too dark, or might be the light in my shop, but this is the paint color that my research revealed, Basin Street Blue.Tried a picture with the flash on. Still might be a little dark, but I'm going to go with it.
  12. Actually, that is the accumulator tank for the dry sump. Oil is pumped from the engine back to this tank, and then drawn back from the bottom. That is the concept of dry sump, in that the pump is always supplied from a gravity perspective. When we were building 1:1, the tank went where you put it, the battery opposite corner.
  13. Got a dry fit of the body onto the chassis done. Had to cut a lot more of the interior and exterior firewalls than I had expected, but I have the four corner screws set and I think it looks good.You be the judge.Next I will turn back to the engine compartment and start to shave the header flanges to see if I can make that work.Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
×
×
  • Create New...