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ibj40

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About ibj40

  • Rank
    MCM Regular

Previous Fields

  • Are You Human?
    Yes
  • Scale I Build
    1/18

Profile Information

  • Location
    Texas
  • Full Name
    Jim Forte
  1. I had a busted up Classic Carlectables Lola T332, and was playing around with it and painted the body gray and left the chassis the original aluminum color. Someone on another Board suggested I turn it into a diorama, so I inserted Lolas in place of a Trans Am Camaro I had in this pit scene.
  2. Quick photo essay, put the Firebird body onto a GMP Trans Am Camaro chassis. Sounds simple, right, as GMP is now ACME; plus, Firebirds and Camaros shared a common chassis, but . . . Photos won't tell all the story, but close enough.
  3. 1/18 Biante James Courtney 2016 ANZAC Appeal Tribute V8 Supercars Holden VF Commodore. After being introduced in the 2013 season, Holden Racing Team’s ANZAC tribute has become an annual initiative by Holden and HRT. It is supported by the Returned & Services League (RSL), with the livery raising awareness and funds for the RSL’s annual ANZAC Appeal. The 2016 version has Holden’s famous HRT lion and driver logo replaced by the RSL’s ANZAC Appeal Rising Sun logo, with a silhouette of ANZAC diggers from the original Gallipoli landing featuring on each side of the car and bonnet. Part proceeds of the sale of this model will be donated to the RSL’s ANZAC Appeal.
  4. Diecast newbie question

    I use a product called Klean Strip. It is an aerosol, and comes in a couple of different strengths, including one intended for airplanes. My experience is that they all work the same. Spray it on, the paint will bubble up, and you wash it off with high pressure water. Make sure you get all the plastic pieces off before your strip diecast, most solvent will turn plastic into unrecognizable goo. One caution on repainting diecast is that the tolerances between pieces is a lot closer than on real vehicles, and paint doesn't understand that. If a paint supplier tells you two coats of primer and two coats of paint, for example, that is for a real vehicle. On pieces such as doors and hoods/trunks, on diecast (I work in 1/18 scale, for example), that will use up all the factory room between these pieces. Good luck on your first one, and keep us up to date.
  5. I was pretty sure that the new package tray I had fabricated fit better than the picture showed, and I was right (this picture is taken without the rear window in place, the two notches are to clear its attaching points).And, of course, now the rear wheel wells match up much better.Had to take a bunch of material off the inside of the lower part of the body under the A pillar, plus still had to provide a little clearance on the fender well itself. Took about an hour to grind down all the diecast metal.Now, on with the show!
  6. So, an update on a little bit of forward progress, and as usual, a little bit of rearward regress.So, you fit some parts together, and for simplicity and ease of working, you leave other components off, assuming that it will all come together eventually.Well . . .Got quite a bit of work done on the new rear package tray, which will separate the fuel cell from the passenger compartment (per SCCA rules).I will not disclose how many pieces of cardstock were sacrificed to get to this point. However, before I took this picture, I thought the fit was much closer.I had not replaced the front inner fender panels onto the frame, but thought that was a logical next step.Looks pretty good.But wait, if you look above (in my February 5, 2019 post), you will see a very close fit between rear inner fender well and wheel opening, but alas, when the front panels are in place, we're off close to 1/4 inch!Turns out that there is some interference between the later model inner panels, and the diecast metal of the early model body. Now, which do we trim, and how much?Might be hard to see, but the pencil line on the black paint is where the interference is. Time to take Dremel in hand!I'll be back.
  7. Progress shots.Closing the gap between the fastback early model and the slant back of the '70 model will prove to be an origamic challenge.Had to sand both sides of the chassis, and at an angle at that, in order to get the late model chassis to fit into the early model body.
  8. Unfortunate, I am sure you would have had a field day with engine detailing.
  9. You have an engine detail shot? Chassis looks great!
  10. Really nicely done, and to have your 1:1 in 1/18 is amazing. Great work!
  11. Yes, got your reply. Thanks!
  12. In the Sports Car Club of America, back in the day, I think these were allowed to run with the bonnet propped open for help in cooling the engine. Have you considered displaying it that way?
  13. Again, another superior transition. Bravo!
  14. Keep it coming, Mike! By the way, body shipped yesterday, should be there by Friday.