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Anglia105E

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Everything posted by Anglia105E

  1. A recent attempt to use the boot lid plinth from the ' toy ' Silver Cloud to create a mould, has resulted in the destruction of the master part. Thinking that I would be able to cast further plinths from such a mould, I carelessly melted the original part with hot glue. So it's back to the drawing board for the plinth part, and there are two additional issues at present, both of which are holding up completion of this build. The windscreen does not fit very well into the body shell, and also the radiator grille chroming has failed again at the third attempt. Three of the five surfaces of this radiator grille have a nice smooth chrome finish, but the other two surfaces have serious blemishes. All the work on the rear end of the Rolls-Royce has turned out nicely, which is more than can be said for the front end of the model. David
  2. Welcome to MCM Forums, Sean . . . I am from Derbyshire, England UK, and building Rolls-Royce model cars in 1:24 scale and 1:32 scale. David
  3. That is one BIG project you have there Michael . . . 1:8 scale E-type Jaguar, V8 Ford engine, Gulf racing paint scheme . . . I really admire what you are attempting, and clearly you know exactly what you are doing. To some extent, it must be so enjoyable not to have to follow any rules, or even the instruction sheet ! I am sure that when you finish this build, this car is going to look absolutely F-A-B-U-L-O-U-S David
  4. I think your whole diorama is wonderful, Harald . . . and sometimes blurry and slightly out of focus is good. I understand that the colours in your diorama photos are important, but have you considered Black & White photography ? My Kodak camera has a setting for B&W, which can be very effective for vintage cars and also old buildings. Nice for 1950's period shots. David
  5. This was something that has been on my mind recently, and I was thinking now that the outside temperature has dropped below 13°C the spray painting will have to stop for the Winter . . . Currently it is around 8°C outside, and obviously it will drop to below 0°C at some stage. As Rick suggested, maybe we have to use paints with airbrush that don't emit fumes. I have to open my Velux roof window in the loft workshop when spraying paint, but it will be way too cold for opening windows ! David
  6. Interesting update, Charles . . . Your idea to use a photographic backdrop inside the building is a technique that I have not used when building my dioramas, but I might just consider doing so . . . This technique does work for you on this model, and it is a good way of apparently extending the interior. The exterior lighting works well also for your truck dock / bay. I suppose the difficult part of using such a technique is matching the floor colour, and the lighting in the photo subject. David
  7. Beautiful paint colour scheme on your build Andreas . . . I have built one of theses Hudson Hornets by Moebius, which was the 1953 car, and I have one more the same still inthe sealed box. As you discovered, the fit of the parts in these Moebius kits is excellent and everything goes together really well. This is how scale model cars should be produced . . . Moebius are the best in my opinion. Even the instruction sheet is a piece of art work in itself ! Your 1954 Hudson Hornet is very nicely done, and I can see that your polishing is done to a high standard. Plenty of good chrome work too ! I ordered my Moebius Hudsons from a company in Germany, on Ebay, and the price was very good with quick delivery to UK. David
  8. Your figures and the car are really good Harald . . . All your hard work and attention to detail has paid off, and now you can place these models in your wonderful diorama . . . You must be very pleased with the result. David
  9. The spare wheel panel from the Franklin Mint diecast model is slightly too large for the Revell car, so I have produced some drawings to calculate precise measurements for this panel. Previously I have made the panel from thin card, but this time it will be made from thin styrene. The boot lid number plate plinth has been removed from an early 1960's toy Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud that I bought on Ebay . . . This was a 1:25 scale model car, so slightly smaller than my 1:24 scale Revell model, but the number plate plinth seems to have the right proportions for the boot lid. David
  10. Printed out the number plates and test fitted front and rear bumpers. The boot lid handle is moulded into the plastic on the Revell / Minicraft kits, so I decided to scratchbuild a proper handle for the boot lid. I used a short length of 30 amp fuse wire, bent into shape, then drilled two holes in the boot lid and added a locking barrel made of square styrene rod, filed off and rounded the edges. The handle is not yet glued in place, so this can be chromed. The number plate / reversing lamp is the Revell part, but I might use the Franklin Mint lamp that is more realistic in detail. David
  11. Before commencing the polishing process, I put together a mock up of the Silver Cloud model, by test fitting the body, boot lid, bonnet panels, a spare radiator grille, interior seating tub, chassis, front and rear axles and wheels and tyres. The car looks pretty good at this stage of the build, and the daylight shows up the Velvet Green paint finish nicely. Most of the work in progress photos are taken under fluorescent lighting usually. David
  12. I find that I usually spend around 2 or 3 hours in my loft (attic) workshop, actually building models, but I also spend a great deal of time at the planning stage, which includes studying reference photos and Google searching on the computer. Sometimes I am held up while waiting for paint to dry overnight for 24 hours or longer, in which case I work on some other aspect of the same model. I do try to work on only one model at any one time. Being retired, and also having an understanding wife who likes gardening at her allotment, this allows me to go up to the top floor of the house whenever I get the opportunity. One build usually takes around 2 months, but the current Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud build is going to be way longer than 2 months. David
  13. Oh I see . . . I understand what happens ! David
  14. My intention to use the 3D printed engine, as designed by myself and printed by Shapeways, has been shelved for now. Plan B involves the use of a straight 6-cylinder engine removed from a 1:24 scale Franklin Mint diecast Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud I . . . This was not easy to remove, but I managed to figure out the process without breaking anything! Actually, the detail is very accurate on this FM engine. Then I found that the height of the engine was preventing the bonnet panels from opening and closing properly. I have solved this problem by removing the tiny screw that holds the two halves of the engine together, and this allows the sump and lower part of the transmission to be detached. Now the engine can sit perfectly in the carefully cut out engine bay, and the hood panels are able to close above the air cleaner without touching. The lower parts of the engine sump and transmission are moulded into the Revell chassis anyway, and I believe that Rolls-Royce used the same GM transmission for both the 6-cylinder engine as well as the V8. David
  15. All your hard work on the lighting for this car has paid off Harald . . . You must be enjoying this build ! David
  16. You should be okay Greg . . . and here are a few photos of a 1958 Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud I with a two-tone paint finish, which is Shell Grey (metallic) over Velvet Green (solid) . . . As Leroy mentioned above, use a good automotive pinstriping tape for the masking, like the orange tape in my photos. Both paints for my build were cellulose autopaint from rattle can (custom mixed by a good paint specialist). David
  17. While the first coat of paint is curing, and also while the engine fitting is awaiting further cutting on the chassis, I thought I would change the mood slightly. The following photographs were taken in both colour and black & white, using an Art Deco lamp, an Eric Ravilious poster featuring Hooper & Co., the brass sill plates from a Hooper Rolls-Royce motor car and a 1:24 scale Silver Cloud model. These items are displayed on glass, with a burr walnut coffee table underneath, and a framed antique Chinese painting on the wall behind. Hope you like this. David
  18. Disaster struck last week, when I decided to wet sand the polished paint finish, in an attempt to remove the ' orange peel ' effect. This took me through to the primer layer underneath, in one area of the roof and also on the wheel arch. It has become necessary to start again with the wet sanding, primering, painting, polishing process. Having wet sanded the body, boot lid and bonnet panels, I have given these a coat of black primer. This has been wet sanded after 28 hours, and I need to mask off the lower part of the body. Then I shall apply the first coat of the cellulose Shell Grey, and I might go to three coats instead of two in order to avoid wet sanding through to primer again. The engine detail is coming along nicely, and I am scratch building the rear number plate plinth. In between workbench stuff, I am doing some experimental photography, using the glass TV stand that is now on top of the burr walnut coffee table. Thanks for looking guys, and all comments are very welcome. David
  19. Total realism Charles . . . Brilliant as usual. The detail such as the litter and plant growth at the back corners of the loading bays . . . Exceptional ! You must have enjoyed photographing this model, and that is on top of the sheer satisfaction of having assembled and painted the diorama. David
  20. Good use of materials that you have lying around Daryl . . . Those two buildings look good, even at this early stage, and the daylight is good lighting. David
  21. You have posted one word comments on 13 topics that took 10 minutes of your time Stephen . . . Well done ! Have you not got anything better to do with your time? These 13 topics represent weeks, months, years of hard work and attention to detail by regular members of MCM forums. If you can't be bothered to string a meaningful sentence together, then go play somewhere else DUDE. ' Nice ' ( thanks for the detailed analysis of my project, and those 12 others ) Have a good day speedboy57
  22. The past two days have been mostly about the polishing process, although I did add some further detail to the engine, and mounted the steering wheel and column to the dashboard. Having applied each grade of Tamiya Polishing Compound with microfibre cloth, and then buffed the surface of the body with a different cloth between each application, I can see the gradual improvement. A typical polishing session takes around two hours, and this is repeating the cycle of application and buffing maybe three times. The cellulose paint seems to be resisting all attempts at abrasive polishing. From starting off quite gently, I found that repeated swirling motions which involve a fair amount of pressure, do not damage the paint surface to any degree. I have produced quite a nice finish, but I am some way off from the ' mirror ' finish that I really want to aim for. The Velvet Green is responding better than the Shell Grey, but I think this is due to the Shell Grey being a metallic paint. There are plenty of YouTube videos showing how to use this Tamiya product, and the reviews are all good. I suspect that most modellers are using paints that are specifically for models, or if they are using automotive paints they are not cellulose. David
  23. I airbrushed the windscreen moulding and the radiator grille was airbrushed again because it had some damaged areas. While there was some excess liquid chrome remaining, I dipped the roof aerial mounting in the chrome, and also touched up the top of the dashboard mirror. Started detail work on the 3D printed engine, and used an ignition coil from the Tamiya Jaguar engine. The distributor cap needed correcting, because the spark plug leads exit from the side of the cap, and not from the top. I have some plug lead material ready, as well as some tubing to run the leads through. The Franklin Mint engine is good for reference, as it has an accurate distributor cap and leads setup. Despite close examination, I cannot see a way of extracting the engine from the diecast model. All the other parts of the car I know how to dismantle, but Franklin Mint have been very clever with the engine. David
  24. I was not happy with the blemish on the nearside front wing, which I think was caused by wet sanding down to the primer. I decided to mask everything off, leaving a small rectangular window around the problem area. There is also one on the offside front wing, but less obvious. I applied an extra coat of Velvet Green cellulose to both sides and removed the masking four hours later. The repair has worked, although you can see a rectangular outline where the tape has been. Hoping the polishing will remove the outline. Did some really good masking on the windscreen glass, and also the radiator grille, ready for airbrushing Molotow Liquid Chrome. The photo number 5480 is taken with flash, so it shows every imperfection. David
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