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Model Carnage

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About Model Carnage

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    MCM Regular

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    USA
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    Website Doesn't Work

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  1. Competent website coders don't leave behind 'trivial glitches'. And all the other people complaining in this thread and elsewhere are having a mass hallucination. Check
  2. It's unfortunate that the slug who writes the code for this website obviously never tests his/her work in any other internet browser besides Edge, which by the way commands a whole 8% of the market. For the past couple weeks, in Google Chrome, in Mozilla Firefox, and in Apple Safari, which together have about 80% of the usage market, you cannot post pics using the URL embedding tool and text in the same forum post. There's also a message to the Admin in white text on a black background across the top of the page most of time saying "Run the support tool in AdminCP to restore the defa
  3. Those pics are from a 1968-72 GM A-body. The all-orange bellhousing is correct. I say there should be a lot more body color over that red primer. Should be almost completely body color except the transmission tunnel and along the rocker panel sills where the sill threw a shadow. Somebody went to great pains to blow black paint on the backside of the rocker sills on the black & grey floorpan. What were they thinking? Self-proclaimed and clueless experts. The primer color was chosen by an engineer in each individual plant. I've seen a lot of dark grey, even under white topcoat. There
  4. The red and green floorpan is totally wrong. The one showing 90% grey primer underneath is wrong. Restorers who have never been inside an automobile factory IMAGINE that bodies came out of the paint shop with lots of primer showing underneath. In reality, GM vehicles of the 1960s right up through the 1990s have pretty good topcoat coverage underneath. Even the car bodies painted by robots. People who been under a lot of GM cars and light trucks know this. When the bodies were painted manually, the guys intentionally blew color under the body except on Corvettes. The paint bots were programmed
  5. Went out and bought a couple pre-built Jeepster junkyards for parts and was delighted to see that i could make 1 out of the 2. This is the MPC 1969 Jeepster that is being built as a 1967 because it came without side marker lights. BONUS: Since it was a new model for 1967, there is lots of reference material out there but kinda hard to find. We know that the MPC kit is a Sports Convertible and not a Commando Convertible by the paint divider moldings for 2 tone paint. The Sports Convertible also included a tailgate-mounted spare tire carrier with a special curved rear bumper. The MPC kit ha
  6. Let us not excite the FoMoCo gang by leaving out the SOHC 427 and Boss 429
  7. The lower looks like 1956 Chevrolet Navajo Tan Metallic to me. I did not see anything in the Tamiya chart that is close. You might be able to get there by decanting Tamiya 89973 and adding decanted Tamiya 85090 until you reach the desired shade, then spray it out of a gun. You can also make brown by mixing purple and yellow; blue and orange; or red and green. The last 2 pairs you can make from Tamiya metallics.
  8. Agree with Jehdir6 - it can work both ways. Free hint: warming it up to 100°-120° makes it work better and faster. And using non-abrasive powdered cleanser on the toothbrush for traction helps on stubborn flat blacks.
  9. Baby steps: Buzz off the excess microballoons from the underside factory Vee with a flame-shape carbide bur in the 1/8" pencil grinder to expose the styrene. Bridge .045" styrene across the Vee to mechanically connect the new deck to the old body with something more reliable than microballoons. Short pieces will better follow the contour than 1 long piece, right? The black marks designate the edge of the styrene patches that were radiused on the opposite side to follow the curve in the underside of the body where it meets the side of the quarter panel. Then a piece of sprue was L-shaped
  10. Do you think anyone else can tell i've never done this kinda thing before?
  11. Whoa! Never would've thought of that one. Thank You! About the Superglue Gel: Will it harden if it's painted on and exposed to the air?
  12. Pretty sure that's the air cleaner for the shaker hood & hood scoop. For either engine.
  13. Got a little bit done: Carved off the old glue from the tops of the quarters with a nice sharp folding knife knife in order to have a surface to level the deck to. Fitted the replacement deck into the hole with the correct spacing from the cowl brace to the edge of the new deck, matching the dimension taken from an unbuilt 1969 conv. because the 1970 Bonne was a slightly different dim. Leveled the deck into the opening by taping, then gluing little tabs on top, over the gap between the 2 parts. Had to do it a little at a time because the new deck might've slightly changed shape after
  14. Well, ya' gotta know that the only thing that makes disasters like this one doable are cheap and plentiful MPC 1970 Bonneville Convertible reissues. That, and the fact that i picked up an MPC 1969 Bonneville Convt junk box with the rear deck section cut out of another example. There's 2 ways i can fix this..... a: fit the 2 pieces together that are pictured, or b: cut the deck out of a 1970 Bonneville donor and make the side joints at the quarter panel top corners. I'm used to doing version b: but i'd give version a: a go if someone can suggest a non-shrinking filler to fill the flaws abov
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