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Everything posted by tedd60

  1. And it's a diesel ... maybe multi-fuel diesel. I like diesels. I cannot understand why we cannot build or sell vehicles like this or the Elio in the US. Small cheap simple cars, easy to repair and maintain. We haven't had anything like that since VW stopped building aircooled cars.
  2. My experiment continues. As seen above I took a bit of scrap 1/18 Maisto VW and filled in the slots for the directional signal trafficator semaphore with CA using a brush. then I sanded it flat and primed it. Next i put it in a freezer for 24 hours and set it in the Georgia sun to see if the filling popped out or a hair line appeared. No pop ... no hair. So I sanded it and put on one coat of gloss black from a rattle can, let it dry then back in the freezer for 24 hours and warmed it up today ... no pop no hair ... no change. So far so good. I think it looks great. I'll let it sit over night and hit it with a heat gun and see what that does.
  3. I might be wrong, but I see we are talking about 2 different applications. 1) filling and 2) bonding. I think there are different stresses effecting both applications, although there may be some overlap. I am very impressed with both vids that Bill shared, especially the one from Stew-Mac. Bill offered as a guess (quote): "Without studying the problem and the chemistry, my first GUESS would be that unreacted baking soda absorbs atmospheric moisture over time, leading to eventual swelling and failure. Like I said, that's an off the cuff GUESS." In this quote I am thinking that "unreacted baking soda", i.e., in the bag before CA application may be a bit hygroscopic. Perhaps a couple of quick blasts in a microwave or conventional over before use would dry the moisture out to prevent problems down the road. After reacting with the CA, and coating with primer and paint I expect moisture would no longer be a problem. Interesting and worthwhile conversation. thanks.
  4. I've not tried soldering diecast due to all the negatives I have found ... but years ago I build my own resistance soldering unit. It's output is 8 amps @ 12 VDC and was designed for very fine work. I don't know what kind of temp I can get a big joint up to ... but I know a way to find out. What flux is used with rose metal?
  5. Now I found that interesting. As I mentioned above, I planned on testing CA as a filler by both putting it in a freezer then setting it in the hot sun. My part sat in the freezer (15 degrees F.) overnight with no damage. I set it in the sun this AM and now the part is over 60 degrees F with no sign of cracking. My hope was to see if the CA expanded and contracted at the same or a different rate than the diecast and would show a crack in the primer. So far it shows no harm. After this test cycle has concluded, I'm going to sand it and spray on a coat or two of paint ... then repeat the test to see if the CA filler shows crack lines.
  6. Me neither. I have some junkers to practice on ... I'd love it if it would bond 2 pieces together. I have tops I'd like to chop, among other things. Even paint chips so I'm not to troubled by that. Seeing as I'm going on 68 none of this has to last more than about 10 years. Why did you try baking soda (aka... bicarbonate of soda) as a binder?
  7. OK Ace, but what of cyanoacrylate? ... or maybe cyanoacrylate mixed with a polyester filler?
  8. I got curious so this is a test without any filler ... I just wire brushed off the paint, brushed a couple coats of Crazy Glue into the seam for the left side trafficator semaphore, sanded off the excess and primed it to see what's up. I left the right side untouched. The stuff at the bottom of the L/side panel is paint too tough to brush off, NOT Crazy glue. I guess over time I will see if it cracks ... but for now, I will put it in a freezer for a couple days, and then outside in the Georgia sun. FWIW, Crazy Glue seems to sand as easy as any filler I've ever used.
  9. Joining and gap filling diecast metal. Anybody try Gap filler and/or thick super glue? I've got a couple 1/18 diecast projects on my bench and I'm trying to come up with a way to fill some panel lines and other gaps. I read that epoxy type body filler won't work because it doesn't stick to die cast metal, and no matter how hard you try, you at least get a thin crack in the paint.
  10. Excellent stuff! Please keep posting.
  11. Beautiful detail. WWWWWaaaayyyy too rich for my wallet.
  12. I see that Maisto has put out a 2017 Ford GT in 1/18 diecast. Has anyone tried to rebuild it into a Ford GT GTLM (aka, Ford GT GTE)? The major differences between the two are listed in THIS article. The nose and tail are a little different, and so is the wing, but not a real problem. The wheels are wrong and masking it for paint and finding all those decals might be tough. ' to this:
  13. Although MGBs were my passion (or poison), I always thought the TR4 was a much better car ... if only for its chassis. The TR6 was a wonderful car for a club racer ... I think Paul Newman started in TR6's. Thank you for the picture.
  14. One of my most favorite Mustangs. These came out around the last time I raced my MGB. I often thought about building a road racer out of one. I have one of these in the same color. Maybe one day it'll get some slicks and a roll cage. Nice work. How you feel better soon. T
  15. I've got a pretty good pile of those plastic display bases that 1/18th scale models come on. The thickness seems to be .070 in. or about 1.80mm and some of the lengths can be 12 inches long. The Maisto bases have an interesting wood grain, others have stripes molded in. This stuff has got to be good for something ... beds for trucks, sides for woodies. Other than display bases, has anybody done anything interesting with them?
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