camaro69

Hello fellow modelers, I want to open the trunk on a Corvette C4 convertible. Now I have the problem as always that I don't find the correct rotation point for proper operation because of the swing in the contours. Is there a way to find the correct point the hinges should be mounted? Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you all in advance. Rico

Thank you guys. I appreciate your kind words.

Hey guys, thank you for the kind words. I´m really glad that it nearly turned out like it should. Some details are still missing but I´m fine with this one. Now it´s time looking for the next project.

Thanks for bumping up because I´ve already 2 built... 1971 Plymouth Cuda built over ten years ago... Actually built Acura NSX even if it´s out of the german packaging and named Revell which call it 1/25 it´s definitely 1/24... Rico

Finally finished the Revell Acura NSX Snap Kit today... What was added: front turn signal and taillight bezels from scratch scratch built sidemarker light bezels and lenses seat belt buckles stripes of adhesive vinyl mirroring foil for rear view mirrors scratch built door locks scratch built antenna steerable front wheels with rotating steering wheel wired engine scratch built charcoal filters selfmade decals (scripts, stickers, license plate) scratch built sun visors and Tamiya inside rear view mirror scratch built upper door panels fujimi 19 inch Sportech Mono wheels and disc brakes scratch built exhaust tips Here are the pics. Hope you´ll enjoy. Comments and critism welcome as always. For fun here a retro design pic... That´s it. Thank you for looking, Rico

Finally finished this one today. More pics under glass, Rico

Some other small things done on this one. First built some new upper door panels from scratch. Cutted out the kit ones... rebuilt the upper panel and the door handle... made new upholstery parts out of styrene stripes... Then the rest of the interior got it´s color, seats got seat belt buckles also from scratch... After that I detailed the engine a bit using different sizes of black wire and scratchbuilt charcoal filters. Also the bracings left and right were added using some styrene profile. That´s for today. Hope you´ll like it. Rico

Hey guys, five !!! months without an update. Please bear with me but it was a very busy time. Anyway I could manage some things at the NSX over the time. The decals I´ve drawn didn´t want lay down like they should so I decided to do the stripes out of self adhesive vinyl foil like used on real cars. It´s a little bit thick but looks great IMO. scratchbuilt the Acura emblem on the front using some polished 0.4mm alumium plate and a self drawn black decal... ... finished the sidemarker lights as mentioned before... ... scratchbuilt some door locks to and used real mirroring foil for the mirrors. The small NSX decals at the door handles are self drawn too... ... painted the seats beige and used self drawn decals for the headrests. Last two days I worked on the front turn signals. First I scratchbuilt some bezels out of styrene covered with self adhesive alumium foil for the mirror effect... Then removed the pins from the lenses and glued them with clear acrylic laquer in place, then covered them with clear uv-resin for better adhesive. Meanwhile the lenses are clear all over, no milky shine visible anymore. After finishing the turn signals I started the taillight lenses. Cutted out the reverse light lenses and filled the holes with clear uv-resin. Used the same alumium foil as before for the reflectors beside the wing. Then installed the lenses using clear acrylic laquer and some Revell Contacta Clear. The license plate is also a self drawn decal. And that´s it for today. Thanks for looking, Rico

Thank you guys for the suggestions. Found out that I can use Autodesk Fusion too.

Hey everybody, i was wondering how and with which software you cut the bodies into two halfes. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance, Rico

Me too. Thanks. And it goes on... Here it is in color now. Used silver-bronce from a near craft store as basecoat over the primer followed by Tamiya transparent red. After some days of drying I clearcoated it with automotive clear acrylic laquer right out of a rattle can. Couldn´t resist a quick mock up with the corrected wheelbase. Here under normal light... ... and with flash. Then I did the brakes and fabricated some exhaust pipe ends out of styrene. Then how crazy must I be. I thought "Why have you done the sidemarker bezels and didn´t the taillight bezels?" So this was the next step. Each side is made out of 17 single styrene parts, glued together and spray painted. Then came the difficult part, opening the body to make the bezels fit but I´m pleased with how it turned out. All areas on the next pics missing the color are already recolored. Next update soon. Rico

This is a really nice and clean build. 👍

Thank you guys. This means a lot to me.

Yeah, that´s it. And the build goes on... Next was to find some suitable wheels. Found some 19inch Fujimi Sportec Mono 10. As I said this kit has lots of room for improvement so I decided to make the front wheels steerable with a rotating steering wheel. A simple mechanism like usually used at toy cars did the job. Meanwhile the dash was painted and detailed too. Next was cutting the sidemarker lights out of the body and building a simple antenna. New sidemarker bezels were made out of evergreen U-profile closed with 0.01" stripes. Added a small piece of 0.025" round as the lightbulb. Front... Rear... Sidemarker lenses were made ot of production flags (clear red and orange) from an Aoshima Skyline kit. Here still hidden by tape... For a long time I wasn´t sure about the color scheme. After hours of thinking about it I decided to go with white rims. They are only coated with Tamiya white primer. Then the color scheme was in my head. This one will get a nearly standard look. It will become red metallic (with a candy look) and a black top. Because I wanted something special I designed stripes on my own. The front stripe includes the japanese characters which mean ACURA and the stripe on the top got a red point to simulate the japanese flag. Here´s the design printed on paper and hold in place by masking tape to get a feel for the look. Any comments and critism welcome as always. Next update will come soon. Rico

Sorry guys, I have to quit my entry for this year because of missing spare time and wanting myself to much detail for this build. Hope that I can take part next year again. I appreciate all the good modelers who build a model here and definitely will vote for my favorite. Thanks you all for your inspiring work. Model on, Rico