R. Thorne

Used masking tape yesterday and worked fine. As others have said, you can paint the hood underside first getting the edges at that time, or hold the hood on with whatever method, leaving the hood sitting ajar, so the edges are covered when painting the whole car. Thanks for the replies, gentlemen.

Right or wrong, I try to do all my body painting with the hood on (carryover from 1:1 days). Cuts down on mismatches painting the hood separately. Up til now I have always give it a touch of glue in a couple spots to hold it on. The ubiquitous tak stuff seems to work as well, however, and, less cleanup after painting.

Very interesting, Plowboy. Thank you.

Want something like these 2 cars have. Found some individual type in the amt 1966 Nova kit and 67 Chevelle pro street, but would like the sandwiched together assembly type. Found some resin ones on eBay, but the quality is hard to detect in their pictures. Could scratch build, of course, but would rather not. Any suggestions?

You’re welcome, sir. Thank you for the many helpful posts you have made on this forum.

Gx113 is a flat coat, didn’t you mean gx112 for a gloss coat?

Great info. So much knowledge in the old magazines. Thank you for posting.

Really like the “lay” of the plug wires. Seem to have the correct flexibility of the real wires. Remember the material used? The other Willys kit would have been the K. S. Pittman car. Not my favorite style of car, but, you make anything look good. Thanks for posting.

Outstanding; beautiful paint and great overall look. Now, my ocd kicks in. Please call it a AA/SR, as there was no BB/SR, only B/SR (unsupercharged). Did you put a small clear windshield on later, as you did on the A/SR? And, that pesky fuel hose fell off the tank in one of the photos.

That’s the Mr. Muse I referred to (aka Mr. Whyte) in my post.

I considered purchasing one of these a few months ago (thanks, mr. Muse). There is a generic and Paasche brand available. These would have to be used outside or in the garage and definitely respirator use. Different types of media are available for different surface requirements. I don’t know for sure about compressor requirements, but doubt a large compressor is required.

Not as good as Greg’s suggestion, but I used tamiya’s lp65 (rubber black) on the slick on the right (sorry for lousy picture).

Well, I like the “zoomies” in this new picture, even though they would not be as historically accurate on an unblown car, of course. Evidently, the Eelco style gas pedal was “de rigueuer” in that time as it was also used on the replica I am currently working on (albeit, stalled at this time, for a number of reasons). Thank you for your prompt and informative replies.

Excellent detective work and persistence. I think you’ve got it.

Mr. Caudell’s model has some interesting features: injector ball plugs; head rest; weathered parachute; nice formed tonneau (seat) cover, etc. But, the most interesting thing, to me, is whitewall tires on the inside on the driver’s side, and, on the outside, on the passenger side. Either that, or, whitewalls inside and out?