R. Thorne

I use double sided tape on the base of my Tamiya cement. This allows me to unscrew the cap with one hand and yet move it around if I need to.

Any progress and anyway I can be of assistance?

Geez! The engine is great. How did you make the velocity stacks?

Clear thinking. I will try it. Thanks, Ron.

LOTS of tedious work there and well executed. Where is the carb from? Looks like a wcfb, so I assume this is a replica of a 265 chevy? Great job.

Your foiling and engine detail work are precise. What color is the body and why does it look copperish in some shots and bright red in others? Don’t guess you did headers on this car? Thanks, Ron.

If you have to glue painted parts together you can scrape the paint off and use cement, but I got tired of cleaning off the paint and now use the small tubes of super glue on painted surfaces.

Very realistic. What did you use for plug wires and “silicone” boots? Did you make the super coil? Hard to tell in the pic, but, did you flatten the aluminum rod (on the shock)? Thanks, Ron.

My sympathies. My curiousity, however, has to ask, how? Dropped? Nonrepairable? Although a neophyte with resin bodies (only have 3) what problems have you experienced?

Find some 7 inch “cheater” (grooved) slicks.

I like it a lot. Are you going to put a strip of styrene under the drip rails to duplicate the top of the door and rear window top strip on the sedans?

Very nice clear, concise tutorial. Thank you.

Thank you mr. Geiger for taking the time and effort to help others. Great idea.

Thanks for the tip, I will try the micro fiber cloth (will probably work better than my current method of using whatever clothes I am wearing).

The 9215 testors kit is very convenient for painting small items (engines, chassis, etc.). I use it with the modelmasters acryl paint ( no thinning, mixing, etc) and cleans up with water. For painting bodies, Tamiya spray cans (ts series) are the best unless you have an airbrush.

Believe it or not, the main reason for carrying the hp and cubic inch on the cars was for the spectators. Most spectators and people in the pits looking at the cars appreciated “stock” cars and were curious about the type(s) of engines they had. Until I lettered my car, the first question(s) was always the size of engine and hp.

Thanks for sharing.

I got the one without lighting and added my own. Use mostly Tamiya spray cans and have no problems. Quality piece of merchandise. You won’t regret it.

I was under the impression that everything at mcw was “out of stock” and they were all “built” after you ordered the model. Right or wrong?

Up until a few months ago I used model cement ( Tamiya extra thin mostly) . Removing the paint had become tiresome, however, even with a number of “specialized” tools. I now use ca and it is much easier and faster to not have to remove the paint and it appears to hold securely. I also use Bondene (“glass” held in place with pressure from my finger and bondene applied with a micro brush around the edges) to install windshields (thanks Donn Yost). I applaud you for keeping an open mind.

The overlapping on the windshield is very similar to foil in that it is difficult to see. Personally, it was less frustrating for me than foil and the finish is less “wrinkly” and more shiny than foil with no buffing necessary and no removal of adhesive. Ron.

These are simply chrome decals of varying thicknesses that you cut out and apply like a long thin decal with setting solution. They don’t like curves, but they overlap similarly to bare metal foil. Apply decal solution, then decal, then more solution to help move decal into place. For windshields, it would take 2 long and 2 short pieces that would overlap. I did learn to cut the decals to the exact length before applying them (much easier than trimming the length after they were applied). Ron.

Sorry, picture didn’t turn out well, these were supplied by warbirddecals, part # 007 and 008. Ron.

Saw this in last issue of scale auto and decided to give it a try. Here is my first trials. Jury is still out, but may work ok on certain applications. Apologize for picture quality.

www.scalehobbyist.com.