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sdbos777

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About sdbos777

  • Rank
    MCM Regular

Previous Fields

  • Are You Human? yes
  • Scale I Build 1/24

Profile Information

  • Location Quincy MA
  • Full Name Steven Dyer

sdbos777's Activity

  1. sdbos777 added a post in a topic Help - Gelly Never Dries   

    El Caballo - I highly recommend this kit.  It is nicely detailed, well molded, and well designed.  There are positive contacts for nearly all parts, and everything fits together as it should.  Well, mostly - the front-end bumper/grill assembly does not fit well and took much finagling, and I still did not get it quite right.  But everything else all went together perfectly and easily.  This kit was a joy to build.

     


  2. sdbos777 added a post in a topic Help - Gelly Never Dries   

    I ordered a Molotow acrylic pen, and it worked great.
     

  3. sdbos777 added a post in a topic Help - Gelly Never Dries   

    Well, after some more googling I found threads about how enamel and oil-based paints won't dry on rubber, or really on any glossy surface.  No idea why that didn't come up during my initial "which pen do i need" search.  Anyway, I've ordered a could of red pens that are acrylic based, from JetPens:
    https://www.jetpens.com/Sakura-Pen-Touch-Paint-Marker-Medium-Point-2.0-mm-Red/pd/14161
    https://www.jetpens.com/Molotow-ONE4ALL-Acrylic-Paint-Marker-127HS-1.5-mm-Traffic-Red-013/pd/16014
    Together they were $16.  Hopefully they'll do.  
    Now I'm going to scrub the useless red gelly ink off my tires.
  4. sdbos777 added a post in a topic Help - Gelly Never Dries   

    Maybe, but the reason that I got a Gelly pen for the redline tires is that others in the forums were recommending Gelly pens for whitewalls and such.  
  5. sdbos777 added a topic in On The Workbench   

    Help - Gelly Never Dries
    I got a red Gelly pen and a circle template to make the plain tires in the AMT 1967  Oldsmobile 442 kit into redline tires.  The red lines came out great, but - THEY AREN'T DRYING.  Even after a week the red lines are wet.  I've tried sitting them in front of a space heater, blowing warm dry air over them for hours, but they're still wet.  Has anyone else had this problem?  How did you deal with it?  does Gelly EVER dry?!
     


    • 13 replies
    • 697 views
  6. sdbos777 added a post in a topic Scale Finishes - Blotchy Paint   

    In the end the Monte Carlo came out ok.  After stripping it all back, I redid the finish.  The layers are:  Tamiya primer, Zissner-Bin, color coats (scale model finishes Dark Camel), Alclad clear coats, micro gloss polishing compound, "the treatment" model wax.  The primer/color/clear were pretty heavy coats, with sanding in between to even it out.  The Zissner especially needed flattening - it was beyond orange peel, it was "lumpy".  In the end the finish came out very nice. It is very brittle, though.  The slightest contact tends to chip the paint.  Does anyone know if Scale Model Finishes is usually this delicate?  I'm dissuaded from using them again.  Below are pics from done/nearly done.  




  7. sdbos777 added a post in a topic Scale Finishes - Blotchy Paint   

    StevenGuthmiller - you said you put foil on before the last "color"coat?  Do you put a rectangle of foil, then color over it, then rub off the color on the script?  Then clear?  What is your technique for the script foiling?
  8. sdbos777 added a post in a topic Scale Finishes - Blotchy Paint   

    Thanks everyone.  The consensus is that it is crazing, and that lines up with what I'm seeing here.  
    Further info:
    Primer - the car body was primer'd with Tamiya white primer.  The hood and trunk had more primer, as they had been filled/sanded and the body had not.  I think they had enough primer to prevent the crazing problem.  I do not usually primer the test spoons, so the paint usually goes right onto the plastic.
    Test spoons - The problems actually show up on only A FEW brands, not all.  The shot below shows three spoons with the problem - those brands are Rustoleum Satin Black, Scale Finishes Dark Camel, and Quick Color black (this one actually bubbled after I sprayed it).  The top two are Model Master "wood" color enamel jar paint, thinned with MM enamel thinner for the airbrush; and Model Master spray can Hemi Orange.  All of these spoons were sprayed recently, but the top two don't have any problems.  My bucket of spoons, all from the same box of styrene spoons (I researched spoons and got styrene, the same thing models are made of), and I never had this problem until I started branching out from Testors/Tamiya paints.
    Humidity - my basement is pretty much a constant 63% humidity.  Not low, but not too high.  I use 65% as the threshold above which spraying starts to become risky.  
    So, it seems that some brands of paint are hotter than the others, and have more of a crazing problem.  
    What I plan to do is:   strip the car body, re primer with enough to seal the plastic well, reshoot with Scale Finishes Dark Camel.
    --> Does anyone know of a better way to "seal" the plastic, other than multiple coats of Tamiya primer?



  9. sdbos777 added a post in a topic Scale Finishes - Blotchy Paint   

    Thanks 935K3.  Humidity is unlikely I think, though.  I paint in my basement and humidity is fairly constant there.  And the spoons exhibit the same pattern, many days apart.  I've done a fair amount of woodworking and understand blushing in lacquer finishes.  This isn't blushing.
  10. sdbos777 added a topic in Model Building Questions and Answers   

    Scale Finishes - Blotchy Paint
    So I'm  having another interesting problem with Scale Finishes paint.  I am not sure it is specific to that brand.  Here is the story.
    First, spoons.  I very often test paint on plastic spoons.  I bought a box of 1000 styrene spoons and have bene using them for years.  Lately, the spoons show a glossy/not glossy pattern on them - see the photo below.  This is with MANY different brands of paint, so I assume it is something to do with contamination in the plastic of the spoon.
    I tested the Dark Camel color from Scale Finishes on a spoon, and it exhibited the problem.  After I applied the paint to the car, I noticed the same problem.  See the photos - there are non-glossy patches on the body.  This is after several light/medium coats of the paint, and it looked fantastic wet.  As it dried, it got blotchy.
    Notice the picture of the hood, though - it looks great.  Yeah it's orange-peely but this is before any gloscoat or sanding/polishing.
    --> What is going on with this blotchy paint!?  Does anyone have any insight?
    Hoping that gloss coat would make it look right, I took my test soon and put on TWO medium/heavy coats of alclad clear kote, then a very heavy coat.  When wet it looked like glass, but after it dried - blotchy.  So it seems that no amount of clear coat is going to fix this.
    It is possible that the hood has more primer on it than the body.  I had to fill dimples and depressions, and to cover the putty and sanding it took more primer.  Is that the key?  A lot more primer?
    Any help you all can give would be great.  Thanks.
     







    • 24 replies
    • 720 views
  11. sdbos777 added a post in a topic 1948 Aerosedan - Metalic Paint Issues   

    I stripped the paint with thinner, then sanded an applied Tamiya primer.  I applied lighter coats and the results are much better.  There is still a bit of non-glossy roughness in some tiny patches of the paint, a problem I've been having with the Scale Finishes.  (See my upcoming post on paint issues with the Trumpeter 78 Monte Carlo).  I'm hopeful that some light sanding/buffing and clear coat will cover those flaws.  Here are pics of the new, good results.


  12. sdbos777 added a post in a topic 1948 Aerosedan - Metalic Paint Issues   

    I used Tamiya white spray-can primer and Scale Finishes Lake Como Blue, which I see now says "enamel" on the bottle.  Enamel should be ok over Tamiya primer, right?

  13. sdbos777 added a topic in On The Workbench   

    1948 Aerosedan - Metalic Paint Issues
    I recently started on Galaxie's 1948 Chevy Aerosedan.  I ordered the original Lake Como Blue, which is a dynamite color.  I sanded the few seams off and primered the body.  Then I did my usual airbrush lacquer routine - a couple of mist coats, followed by a wet coat.  Well, the wet coat didn't work out.  I'm thinking I need to strip it, then when I reapply the paint do many more light coats to build it up, no medium or heavy coats, so that the flecks in the paint don't all flow around the (very slight) imperfections in the molding.  What do you all think?   Has something like this happened to you?  How did you deal with it?
     



    • 7 replies
    • 653 views
  14. sdbos777 added a post in a topic 55 Crown Victoria   

    Here is the finished product.  It came out very nice.  I must say that this model was extremely challenging, and it fought me every step of the way, right down to the last piece - the front bumper, which was twisted.  Even on one side, up or down on the other.  With no positive contact pin/hole connections I was left to try to work it out with super glue and epoxy.  There was a LOT of cleanup and fabrication work on this, given all the resin parts, and the usual mediocre quality of AMT kits.  In the end though it looks great.
     





  15. sdbos777 added a post in a topic 55 Crown Victoria   

    The car is nearly complete.  I used the photo etch parts and they came out very nice.  I sprayed them with alclad 2 chrome, then red/white/blue enamel.  After all the emblems and foil were on I put on several coats of clear lacquer.  Up close it interfered with the alclad chrome - it's not as smooth or silver as before.  But unless you're looking through a magnifier it still reads as chrome and looks good.