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PierreR89

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About PierreR89

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    yes
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    1/24

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  • Location
    Sweden
  • Full Name
    Pierre Reijonen

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  1. Finally did the last things on this and surprisingly the decals on the sleeper were no problems at all. Will soon be in the under glass section. Only real problem was one i created my self when i dropped one of the lenses for the headlights and did not find it again. Also being used to normal truckkits with maybee 5-6 left over parts this had a "little" higher partscount. There are 7 sprues left and the chromesprues do still have almost all of the parts left on them + a complete set of glass for the Kenworth aerodyne cabover. Here are the leftover parts:
  2. The early Triton engines had that problem, i think it is fixed on the never ones. The heads have only about 3-4 threads for the sparkplug and if they are not torqued just once, its just a matter of time before it blows out the plugs. There are repairkits for it on Ebay for alot of $$$ or you can just use a helicoil and do basically the same as those kits does for almost nothing. If you go the helicoil rout you dont have to remove the head, just make sure that the piston in that cylinder is in top dead center, it will be easier to clean out any metalshavings that fall in to the cylinder. But it could be worse, you just had one plug shoot out. One i know had an Excursion with the v10 and that one blew out 4 of its plugs almost at the same time and oblitteraded the coilpacks + dented the hood and here in Sweden those coilpacks is about $150-$250 each. Hood is probably dented still as that was impossible to get at a decent price even at the junkyard.
  3. No i did not do anyting to it. I built it straight from the box with no changes. But yes the front axle needs to be moved fot them to be centered in the wheelwells.
  4. Done some more work on this and honestly not even surprised that not even the decals fit good. Have to do some trimming on them when they have dried. Passengerside looks really bad. The gap between the hood and cab is as good as it gets. Also i think the horns looks way to big for it but the other for a K100 that also are in it looks to small It might look better when the rest of the chromeparts is on it and the sleeper with its decals.
  5. I know that the eninge should be beige but i am tired of painting almost all truck engines in beige just because everyone have a Cummins in them. I wanted something different. Next might be black as some Cummins engines we use at work are black. But those are not Cummins ntd/ntc they are Cummins qsm engines.
  6. Have done some more on this truck. This truck is so bad fitting everywhere that it feels like they were in a hurry when they did it because Revell,s trucks are normally not this bad to build. I am actually happy that they stopped making it, hopefully it will stay gone to or rereleased after thay have done some work on the molds for it.. The only easy part was the rearend because that is the same as any of their Kenworth kits. The sleeper was a pain to put together as nothing fits on it.. Get the walls perfect and the roof dont fit, make so the roof fits and the walls are all over the place.. I just gave up on that in the end and decided to not care about any gaps between the parts. I have to do some modifying on it to make it fit with the cab and make some supports for it so the molded ones in the floor actually touches the frame..
  7. Here are the instructions for the Revell Lonestar: https://downloads.revell.de/Manuals-Modelkits/07408_%23BAU_2010_INTERNATIONAL_LONE_STAR.PDF
  8. If they added just 6 extra parts in their version they would have 3 different versions of this truck in one kit. You could build it as the FLC version, Conventional version and conventinal aerodyne. For that to happen they just have to add the 2 longer sleeperwalls and roof from a conventional kit, for the aerodyne they can just add that roof as it is one piece with spoiler molded in it. Then the 2 clear windows for the aerodyne roof. They could even skip on the windows as most of us should have enough left over clearparts to modify something or make your own. I wonder why they did not do that as it seems as they like to do 2 in one kits and they would probably be first with a 3 in one truckkit.
  9. I ended up building it like the lower with the twin turbos as that was the only way it would look good and not having parts mounted in the air. I just think it is odd that 2 instructions for the same kit and from the same year show different ways to assemble it. With my irl verion i would not have got the engine and turbo together. Also step 33 in my manual shows how to put the frame together again after boht sections are complete. Step 32 show that in the online manual + that i should use a stepplate part 238 (forgot the name) to hide and possibly support the frameparts I have that part but its only half the size + the exhaust pipes are way different in each manual. So i wonder what happend? If my kit is a earlier version and the online manual is a later one where they corrected alot of things. I use both anyways so i can crosscheck to see what manual makes more sense sofar its about 50/50
  10. Sure, here you go. The winchdrums could easily be modified so that they spin and work as on a real truck if you want to. They are seperate pieces. Here is the hingepoint for the boom arm when it is folded in for transport Could be movable if you dont use the moulded wire in the kit that i used.
  11. I started this a few weeks ago but there are so much wierd things in the instructions so i decided i wanted to share them. The front frame half is almost complete and the engine just needs paint now. Now for the wierd parts in the instrucions. Both of them are for the T600 with the 7528 revell number and printed the same year 1991. One was included in the unopend kit and the other was from internet that i found after some searching. First the one from the kit Now the one from the internet, remember they the have same number and same printingyear: Notice anything? Also the engine could not be built as it is shown in the irl manual as the turbo and pipework would not work at all
  12. Calling this one done for now. Just going to order some other wheels and tires + stoneguard and bugshields some extra lights for the bullbar and see if i can find a better looking chain to have hanging on the bullbar. The pintjob is inspired from the Australian bicentennial Mack Superliners.
  13. Nice. I have always wanted to build one of these just to have something more odd then those i have. (Hard to find anything more odd looking then the Lonestar) This kit was just rereleased again or am i wrong?
  14. Paintjob is complete exept for some small cleanup that i need to do. Only thing left to paint is the cable so that it looks like a steelecable should. Then it is just small details like doorhandles and hinges for the storageboxes on the wrecker body and all the lights that it is going to have.
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