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About gijoe

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    Joe Wozniak

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  1. I do use Duplicolor almost exclusively, they are very good. But, if money wasn't a concern, I would use Tamiya, I think it's a better primer, just not better enough to justify the price difference over Tamiya.
  2. A lot of us here use Duplicolor sandable primer, you can get it at most auto parts stores. Tamiya makes a "better" primer, it goes on super thin, but it's much more expensive than the Duplicolor, and not nearly as available. I use Duplicolor pretty much exclusively these days.
  3. Thanks for the extra input, everyone! To clarify the illusion that I'm going for, you're right, I just want the "suggestion" of carbon fiber under the paint. I had considered the mesh/paint trick, and actually I think it would work really well, but I wanted to get a bit more practice with carbon decals, so that's what I'm going to use. I'm not at all worried about wrinkles in the decal causing problems, I'm already very comfortable using SMS decals (among others, like Tamiya). No doubt about it, this is an experiment, but the tests have been successful so far, so we'll see what I end up with! I decanted the rest of the Tamiya TS-16 last night, so I'll get the base coat down today. I thought that I had more SMS decals than I do, so I'll have to get another sheet ordered before I start wrapping the body. I'll start the build log today, so keep an eye out for that if you're interested in seeing the progress.
  4. I had issues loading photos today too, maybe a problem for the site admins to look at?
  5. No problem, Jim. I'll plan on getting some together later tonight, or tomorrow. I'm by no means saying that my technique is the only technique people should use, but I've found this technique to work the best for me. I've become very comfortable with doing it that way, and the results have been very consistent across several different brands of decals.
  6. For complex curves, heat will soften the decal and allow it to stretch better. When doing custom carbon fiber around curves and small details, setting solution and heat are by far the best way to snug the decal down. It probably isn't at all necessary over a flat, or gently curved surface, but it makes all the difference when it comes to the tricky bits. I can get some pictures later showing just how perfect you can get decals to conform without hiding details.
  7. I agree that it's probably standing solution causing the staining with that particular setting solution. I always use heat. The only time I have gotten stains and residue is when I've left the solution on to dry naturally, it beads up, and leaves behind stains. Dougboy, consider giving my technique a try, a strong solution will have enough time to soften the decal while you wet a brush and start to dilute the solution on the surface of the decal. I really only leave full strength solvaset on for a few seconds before I go over it with a wet q-tip, that's all it takes. With care, and soft q-tips, I think you'll be able to get the decals nice and snug without leaving behind any unwanted residue.
  8. Model Masters are my favorite acrylics for brush painting, I really dislike Tamiya unless I shoot it through an airbrush. I usually clean with good ol' warm water and dish soap. If there is any paint left behind I quick dunk into lacquer thinner will take care of it.
  9. My favorite is solvaset. It's stronger than microsol, so you need to be careful, but with the right technique it produces the best results I've seen. I've never had issues with residue using this stuff. Since it is so strong, I paint on a layer, then immediately brush over it with either a q-tip, or paint brush wet with plain water, then I turn on the hair drier and gently conform the decal to it's final shape. Don't ever leave undiluted solvaset on for very long, it's too strong and will dissolve the decal. I will say though, that each individual's technique will play a roll in what setting solution works best. My technique involves 0 wait time, I lay down the decal, get it as close to the final position as possible, paint with solvaset, followup with a wet brush, and heat, snug the decal down with the heat on, wipe the surface clean with another wet q-tip, then leave to dry.
  10. I think something like the Bugatti might be a little easier, just because I think there is more flexibility in the amount of transparency that is acceptable. But, the color choice will play a role, and you may need to use a candy type of color. I'm lucky in this situation that I'm using yellow paint, since it is naturally very transparent. I'll post some progress shots in a build log within a couple of days. I wasn't able to get a good shot of my test piece last night, the light inside at night just didn't show the effect very well.
  11. Tests on a scrap piece are going well. I'll start a build log over the weekend sometime to show the progress. So far I'm spraying the yellow straight from the can, but once I decant the rest, I'll need to make a small batch mixed with clear, but overall I think the effect is going to work. It will be very subtle, and some might say that the effect is so subtle that it isn't worth the effort, and expense of the decals, but this finish was more to challenge my skills and see what can be done than anything else. I'll get some pictures up in a build log when I have some good sunlight to take some photos with.
  12. Yeah, I suspect I may need to do that, but having used yellow paint in the past, and knowing how transparent it can be on it's own, I want to spray it uncut to give me an idea of what to expect the coverage to be like. I'm fully prepared to mix it with clear if necessary.
  13. Yep, I think that's what I decided on. I was debating whether or not I should put the decal over white primer, or over a base coat of yellow, but I think a base coat of yellow will allow me to get a proper yellow so that I only need to go over the decals with a fine coat or two (or three, haha I don't know). I think if I put them over white primer I'll need to build up too many coats to make sure I have a proper yellow, and I don't want to have to put on so much paint that the illusion is lost. Thanks for the recommendation.
  14. This is my plan, as of now. I have some scale motorsports clear/black decals that I'm going to try on a scrap hood. After putting down a nice white primer I"ll do part of the hood with the decal. I'm only doing part of the hood, because the entire F40 body will NOT be done with decals, there are a few areas that are just too tricky to worry about, considering the goal is to have it just barely show through, and other areas where I don't want to hide the detail. I need to test how well I can blend the areas with and without decals to ensure that the effect works, and that aren't darker and lighter spots. I'm planning on using Tamiya TS-16 for the paint, as it seems a good match, and I know the TS paints well, I'll just need to see how transparent this particular color is. TS paints spray great from the can, and are great decanted and sprayed with an airbrush. For the test run, on the scrap hood, I'll spray straight from the can, and if the effect works I'll decant and complete the F40 with my airbrush. I'll start a build log in the next couple of days, after my trial run. Also, does anyone have any suggestions on replicating the 90 degree ignition wires on the Ferrari engine? I have an idea that should work, but if anyone has learned lessons the hard way, your advice would be appreciated. Thanks,
  15. Thanks for the input, everyone. My theory is that even if I don't get the illusion right, I can just spray a bit more yellow and give it a more traditional finish. It has been tough to find reference photos of this effect, especially in yellow, but I think it's worth pursuing, simply for the challenge if nothing else. There are some other challenges that need to be considered. The body will not be 100% kevlar. I don't want to risk losing detail, and I'm worried that with primer, decals, and who knows how many layers of paint, that some details (the recessed "F40" on the wing for example) will be lost. Because of this, I'm carefully shaping my decal templates to avoid covering certain decals, so I'll need to carefully build up the paint in the areas without decals to give an even final finish, where the kevlar weave will still be visible on the larger panels. I'm starting to think that scale motorsports clear carbon decals will be the best to use in this case, I've got some scraps that I can practice with. Again, I'm less concerned with the color of the decal, and more concerned about getting the right amount of weave to show through, this may be easier with a decal that's clear, with just black weave.
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