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Everything posted by ShakyCraftsman

  1. Thanks Dave, it is defiantly alot of fun. Now if I can just turn off the volume on the wife it would be perfect.
  2. Thanks all I haven't been working on it for the last week. Been messing with this 2017 Challenger 392 T/A in Gomango orange. Got tired of climbing in and out of my lifted jeep jk wrangler.getin to old for that but not for this...IT'S F'N ASSUME!!! It's got 485hp/475lbs-ft cold air intake and does the Quarter mile in the low 12's.
  3. Hey all Here's some more pics to look at. I starting on the interior panels these are just temporary for fitment purposes only.So look em over and let me know what you think. Thanks RonG
  4. Hey Xx Rusty Xx What quadruple turbo? The motor I'm using has 2 turbos not 4. With the right combination you could theroiticly make in the neighborhood of 2500 hp. RonG
  5. Thanks geetee66 I'm still trying to improve on how the door opens and closes, It's not quite there yet, plus I still have to replicate it for the other side then I can get on to the interior. Thanks RonG
  6. Hey all Here's some more pictures to look at.This view shows that I finally cut the body for the tilt front end.Another view showing the tilt front end.This view shows the opening front door.View from the inside of the front door.View of the front door hinges.View looking through the passenger door aND roll cage.View of the trunk lid.View showing the trunk lid open aND the hinges.View from the bottom showing the hinges and latche.View of the underside of the trunk lid.Another view of the trunk lid from a different angle. So look em over and let me know what you think. Thanks RonG
  7. Thanks afx and DumpyDan It's slowly getting their one nut and bolt at a time...lol. Here are some more pictures to look at.View of the front axle assembly.View of the drive shaft.View of the rear end assembly, still have to add the bolts to this.This view shows the whole thing kind of temporarily put together.View of the front end and engine.View of the rear end.Another view of the engine.View with the body on.Another view of the front of the body.View looking in through the drivers door.Last view from the front showing the engine. So look em over and let me know what you think. Thanks RonG
  8. Hey all Well the paint got dry...lol. it's been a while since I posted on this. The engine is put together permanently now. I have all the bolts & nuts added. I made some pop off valve springs for the blower and added a decal to the plate. I mounted the dipstick and distributor with added decal. The frame and roll cage are painted with Tamiya semi gloss black. Here are the pictures.If you look closely you can see that the carb bowls and timing cover have been chromed with a molotow pen.View showing the pop off springs.View showing the decal on the blower burst plate and the pop off springs.View showing the decal on the MSD distributor and the dipstick.This view shows the dipstick aND the chromed bloc of plates for the hemi heads.View of the blower studs and valve cover bolts.This view shows the chromed timing cover and electric motor for the water pump also the soc. hd. scrs. for the timing cover.This view shows the oil filter, the starter and oil pan and pan bolts.View showing the starter and inspection cover.View of the RBMotion radiator hose ends.View of the frame and roll cage.View of the rear end assembly, the front end assembly and drive shaft. I still have to polish the blower scoop and chrome plate it. I also have to add the bolts to the rear end assembly. So look em over and let me know what you think. Thanks RonG
  9. Hey fast Floyd 2 Thanks Hey NYLIBUD You can get a cheap one for $200-$300 dollars, but the part quality from them is pretty low. You get a part, but by the time you clean it up and rework it, it would probably be easier to scratch build the part. They are improving them and the quality and prices will probably drop so keep looking and keep up with trends. Thanks RonG
  10. Hey NYLIBUD You can get a decent one for around $1500.00, but don't forget that you have to design the parts before you can print them, and that it takes a long time to print them. The tires I'm using on my 65 stang took 11 hours to print and 2 hours to clean up. I'm not trying to talk you out of getting a printer just saying it's not a easy process. My printer (actually it's my son's) cost was just under 2 grand and the materials cost around $150 - $200 dollars a bottle (resin printer) you get about 4 maybe 5 of the tire size parts to a bottle. You need some kind of graphics or cad software and training in how to use it. I'm a retired, 35yrs. Automotive engineering designer. I designed the tooling and fixtures that put the cars together. I started drawing on the board, draftsmen, and changed to Unigraphics, it's called NX now, it is a very sophisticated cad software. I have been trying to get a copy for home, but it's way too expensive in the $30,000.00 dollar range. I'm trying to learn the graphics software that my son uses for his business. There is a learning curve and I'm still learning. I haven't created anything on it yet, my son made the tires for the '65. Like I said I'm not trying to discurage you just giving a heads up. Thanks RonG
  11. Hey Dave Yup from that photo I can tell that I will need alot more room then that. But like I said I won't be doing anything till I have all the parts on hand. Right now I'm waiting on Shapways to finish printing them. Thanks RonG
  12. Hey Dave I can't find that post. I'm pretty sure I need to stretch it, there just isn't enough room with the components I'm using. I did several drawings at the stock length and no mater how I configure the turbos there isn't enough room to get it all in. I won't cut it until I have all of the components on hand. Thanks RonG
  13. Hey all OK...here is the new set of drawings. I think I have it figured out but, I won't know until I get the motor and turbos, they are being printed at Shapways as we speak. They are from Ron Olsen at 3d Specialties. I'm hoping they will be here by the end of this week. The first photo is a side view showing the 9"stretch.These last 2 are photos I downloaded off of the Internet. So look em over and let me know what you think. Thanks RonG
  14. Hey NYLIBUD Thanks, those were the first go around. I found out that I needed to stretch the body 9" to accommodate the turbos and the exhaust. So I'm working on a new set of drawings. When I get themdone I'll post some pics. Thanks RonG
  15. Hey all Here's some pics of the drawings. 1st is a Side view of the car. 2nd is side & top view of the chassis and motor. 3rd & 4th are shots of the motor and turbos. So look em over and let me know what you think. I know it's not the mountain motor but this one comes with the twin turbo set-up. Thanks RonG
  16. Hey all Well I decided to go with a Brodix BBC from 3d specialties, simulating a 750 cu. In. motor. Went with the twin turbos 3", 26" Goodyear front runners, Billet Specialties Win lite rear wheels and Billet Specialties Win lite front wheels. I started on the drawings of the chassis and the fit of the body. I had to do a drawing of the bbc motor and turbo set-up, basically I have to figure out how to plumb this sucker!! BOY o BOY is it tight. The turbos end up right behind the front bumper and the exhaust wants to dump right into the front tires. Have to do some weird plumbing to get all of it to fit. I have a lot of work to get this ready for building. I will try to get some pics of the drawings tomorrow. Have to go wife's calling for dinner. Thanks RonG
  17. Hey all Just an update, no new pics, but I did get the frame/chassis painted. It's not quite what I hoped for, there's a few flob-ups but they are fixable. I have most of the nuts and bolts attached to the engine and rear end assembly. I am waiting for the paint to dry so I can take some more pictures. So as soon as it's dry I'll get some pics taken. Thanks RonG
  18. Hey AC I'm not sure which kit you need, but I had a real 64 Galaxie tri-power 390, same as a 427 block, and had the factory 2 into 2 into 2 cast headers, very hard to get. I was cleaning them up so I could get them ceramic coated, and was filling a pot mark with a torch bracing in the little divot. AND...BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH...I blew thru the wall and ended up with a about a 1" hole...*%#¿☆♤#...boy was I pissed. The point I'm trying to make is I ended up having to use race headers for a 427. They were individual tubes that went into a collector, that I had to putty up with some asepstos goop to get em to seal, what a pain in the rump. They had to be that way because 2 of pipes were in front of the front cross member and 2 were behind it. Maybe you could simulate that set-up. RonG
  19. Hey Sky Thanks, I try to do my best, but I have to improve on my painting technic. Here's a few more pictures of the chassis, motor and wheels and tires. This is a test fit to make sure I could get to all of the nuts and bolts that hold the front and rear suspension in place. Yes there bolted on!This is a overall shot of the whole assembly, remember it's only temporary.This view shows the front spring attaching points, I still need to trim the bolts to length.Here you can see front attaching points for the rear 4-link bars.This view shows the upper coil over mounting points and the pan hard bar attachment point to the frame.View showing the clearance of the front tire to the header. There's still lots more that needs to be done. I broke one of the tie rod ends, they were plastic and pretty flimsy I kinda thought they were going to give up the ghost...lol. I'm going to replace them with metal ones as soon as my order from RB Motion gets here. So look em over and let me know what you think. All comments are appreciated. Thanks RonG
  20. Hey all Here's some more pics of the front axle assembly finished, except for the mounting of the wheels and tires.Front view of the axle assembly.View showing the passenger side of the front spindle.Closer view of the front caliper and leaf spring u-bolts.Close up shot of the u-bolts and nuts.View from the rear showing the tie rod connecting bracket.View from the bottom front to back. So look em over and let me know what you think Thanks RonG
  21. Hey Dave Yeah I know, I noticed that when I zoomed up on the photos too. I was hoping the paint would cover them, but live and learn. Thanks RonG
  22. Hey all Here's some more pics to look at. View of the front of the engine.Side view of the engine the valve covers have the tubes for the spark plugs and the spark plugs.Shot of the starter and oiloil pan. If you look closely you can see the inspection cover for the fly wheel it still needs to be painted.Another view of the starter. The solinod is pointing down because in the up position it contacts the header. You can also see the 3/4" bell housing adapter for adapting the 426 hemi bell housing to the 392 hemi block.View of the carbs.Shot down the scoop of the front carb.Front view of the lower pulley and timing cover.View showing the Felpro valve cover gasket.View of the Fram oil filter and adapter. So look em over and let me know what you think. Thanks RonG
  23. Hey Sixx No problem, that's what we're here for. Check out the 65 stang and see what's coming next. If you need help just shoot me a PM or reply to a tread. You should check out Dave's stuff I think he's comp189 he is really frickn' assume I pale at his ability. Thanks RonG
  24. Hey nitro I'll send you a check as soon as my cow comes home...lol. I'm working on the valve covers as we speak. Putting in the spark plugs and the tubes that go into the covers so you can get to the plugs, I also added some Felpro valve cover gaskets. Then I'm going to paint them a gold color to match the oil pan. Thanks RonG
  25. Hey all I temporarily assembled the engine for some pics. So here we go. The above picture shows the advance adjustment for the magneto. (This was supposed to be the last picture but the editor screwed up)This view shows the whole thing kind put together for a overall perspective.Front shot.This view shows the scratch built offset magneto and dipstick. The mag cap and body are from a Tamiya Lotus kit and the dipstick is from a Lindberg luv buggy Fiat Topolino.This view shows the oil filte, but it's a little dark.This view shows the blower, carbs and scoop.View that shows the oil filter better. You can see the water pump and cross over tube. I need to figure out how to get the blower belt to fit around them.Closer view of the dipstick and magneto.Head on view of the motor, yes the idler pulley is not there, I have to figure out how I want to mount it.Shot down the scoop, you can kinda see the top of the carbs...I need more light. Well that's it for now, so look em over and let me know what you think. Thanks RonG
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