Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


About 89AKurt

  • Rank
    MCM Ohana

Previous Fields

  • Are You Human?
  • Scale I Build

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
  • Facebook
    Kurt Womack

Profile Information

  • Location
    Prescott, AZ
  • Full Name
    Kurt R. Womack

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I'm guilty! When I found a couple of vintage Monogram kits, hunted for donors to add engines at the same swap meet. When I wanted to ditch the Italeri truck tires on my last Ferrari, got another Fujimi Daytona (have one already, sealed) just for the Borrani wires and Pirelli tires, which was about 1/4 the cost of rare Fujimi wheel parts pack. Now I want and engine and drivetrain for a Triump TR8.
  2. First paint, Tamiya primer. Funny how every flaw shows up when this is done, even missed a sliver of Scotch tape on the body. Also seemed like I squirted a gallon of paint, so much area when doing the inside too.
  3. Done with major fabrication work. Have a bunch of small details to make, but it's time to start blowing paint. No glue, don't breathe! 🤭
  4. Dosen't matter, screwed up anyway. A side tent, don't recall those... and funny you thought of this. I just checked out a Facebook group for VW, many versions of campers being built. Since this was my first attempt, the learning curve was so steep that I almost went over the cliff. Added steel clips, drilled holes to run the "wires". Found out that you can't bend sharp angles, any stress will break, and it's hopeless to glue end to end. So headlights won't be lit at all. The severed f-o is repurposed to be floor lights. Ripped out all that going to the front. 🤬 Added foil tape in the hope to stop any glow. Did something easy, license plate holder, so the plate will be up when driving, lowered behind the bumper in party mode. Added arm rests to the Captain chair, and fixed the hinge. I didn't have the thin wall steel tubing before, so modified the exhaust tips. Screwed up the taillight leads too, so ripped those out, and was lucky that I could tap to the LED for new runs, without 90 degree bends. I'm going to paint flat black inside to help reduce errant glow. Added the taillight locations, which are higher so the optic fiber won't have to bend, and I just wanted to make it more custom. The lenses came from the Tamiya Isuzu Vehicross, plan to keep them clear like the Alteza look.
  5. Yes. 3 sizes of "wire", 2 big to taillights, which are little round vintage looking but clear lens, so will be a hybrid "Alteza" look. 2 medium will go to the headlights, and one to the nitrous bottle box. I had planned another for the dash, but that disappeared during fabrication. 4 small (lost #5) will go to the floor at the side doors. Yea, I've received the brass keys too, which go into recycle to sell.
  6. 89AKurt

    Wheel-Tire Sets

    Why can't you have Fujimi - Pirelli Cinturato tires? ~raz~ 😜 Nice selection offered, those RS Touring look like what comes with the Revell Honda Civic and Integra.
  7. Cool to see someone build this vintage kit! Clean build. The decals for mine looked shot, but I did something different anyway so didn't matter. I could dig around to see if I still have the decal sheet, but always tricky to use old ones.
  8. Well hold on pardner, check this out.... 😳 Added LED light and fiber optics! I've been wanting to try this for years. Had a vague idea what to do, when it came to slicing and dicing, it was Seat Of The Pants Engineering time. I know you can buy tiny LED lights, but this was free in the junkmail, a dealer sent out a promotion with this box, you pull a plastic tab and the light shines the number, which just happens to match the card, so you go into the dealer and get suckered into thinking you won something. The fiber optics are from the railroad model world. Started with tube from a scavenged radio antenna, it has holes drilled in the side so I could see inside during the process. Coffee can steel is another resource. Used the hot-wire to cut down the box, think it's PVC plastic. I need to be able to switch on/off, and replace the batteries, made a hinged lid with the steel and scavenged screws from an electronic device. Cut strips of aluminum tape to bind the "wires" like a real car wiring loom, first glue in was into the brass tube (still not done in this picture). Drilled holes in the chassis, plan was out of sight such as under the seat, and down the side cabinet. I just wanted to get all this laid in last night (stopped at 2AM). Two fiber optics fell out during the process, I discovered, found on the floor. 😡 Cut the canvas roof left-over piece to help glue in the box. I'm just happy it turns on and works, it has to be in just right to stay on. Next is to run to the ends and glue or tape in place. When I paint, will keep the ends long, and cut for the final step. Again, first time I ever attempted such a thing, which is why it sat in the box for many years.
  9. Cool, a Chevy Square Body! I wouldn't worry about getting a nice paint job, that might put it back into the box. Here is your chance to do a patina look! I love the box art. I have some better shots of a hike in Monument Valley, if you want a background picture.
  10. 89AKurt


    When there are lines of people waiting to get into any store, look to see if they are "social distancing" the 6 feet. I understand Costco has the elderly line up first thing, long line, but nobody is keeping the 6 feet.
  11. Magnets added to the engine lid. Started with two on the top, but saw that it was not closing completely. Put two at the bottom too. Used coffee can steel at the corners. A bit sloppy getting the holes drilled, but superglue and baking soda are my friend.
  12. That's a fun looking project! At first thought it was an Ariel Atom, same concept.
  • Create New...