Oldmopars

Are you wanting to print them yourself? Any pictures of the style you want?

Would there be any interest is a grill like this? It would update the Astro/Titan to the newer truck. I'm talking about offering a resin option of this grill.

BTW, Plastuct Plastic Weld is : From MSDS 80-90% Methylene Chloride*# (Dichloromethane) 75-09-2 5-15% Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) 78-93-3 However, MEK is way cheaper and easier to find than Dichloromethane and I find it works fast, easy to control and makes a very strong bond. MEK is under $30 a gallon. But, Dichloromethane is $67 a gallon on Amazon. Pastiche Weld by Plastructs is $13 for 2oz. So, a gallon is 64, 2oz bottles. $13x64, that make Plastruct Plastic Weld $832 a gallon vs. $67 for Dichloromethane or $30 for MEK. Amazon has Tamyia extra thin, $20 for 40ml. That makes it $1892.70 per gallon. That savings buys a lot of model kits. Scratch building and semi kits use a lot of glue.

I have stated this before, but I use MEK. I get it in the gallon can. It lasts for years and years. It works just like the expensive stuff, because it is the active ingredient in most solvent glues. I suggested here a while back to mix tube glue with it to give a thicker cement for times when it is needed. For me, I seem to always have a tube around that I didn't buy and won't use out of the tube. So, I mix it with MEK. It allows you to make a cement/glue that is the consistency that you like. From very thin to very thick. I would never pay for Tamiya thin, and add tube glue to it. Too much $$$, but I get a gallon of MEK for $20-25. That's like $600-700 in Tamiya thin. Even if you buy just the Quart/Liter it is about $8-10. Still way cheaper.

LED Light Bars anyone? From 4in light pod to 50in. (4,10,20,30,40,50)

So, I have been working on creating wheels that fit the Italeri trucks. The are designed to fit the trucks with no adapting or mods. They fit using the kit parts and kit tires. 5 spoke, 6 spoke, 2 hole, 5 hole and Euro As demand is the driving factor is what is offered, if you are interested in these wheels, please contact Charles at Texas 3D customs and let him know you want them.

Fender flares like these would be easy to design and print, however I feel like there would be a very low demand. This means that the price you would have to pay for them may be a bit more than you want to do. As these would be easy to draw, let me know the dimensions and I will see what Shapeways would charge.

See this post, I added 2 new tube style winch bumpers. However, these are for a pickup and may have to be narrowed to fit a Jeep.

The new 12K Warn and a Jeep style tube bumper to fit it.

So, I have not forgotten the bumpers. I have a few more ready to go. A tube bumper and a more modern bumper with a newer style Warn Winch.

I have always loved the crazy style of this car. That and Leg Show. I want to find a Resin body, or maybe just design and print my own. Very unique car.

I have an STL I plan to work with. It is from a complete body, but will save me a ton of time attempting to get the curves right. However, my computer is barely limping along, and these files just lock it up. My new Super Hot Rod computer is on the way, but will not arrive until the first week of April. Its special order, so has to be built. Once it is here, I will be hitting a few project really hard.

They are done, Charles has them. He has had them for a while. Just ask him for them. We talked about them last night.

One more item. Any interest in these? Thinking 1:24, 1:16, maybe 1/8 if needed. 1:25 vs. 1:25 at this size would be too close to worry about. They are 3/4 and 5/8in bolts and flanged nuts. Target would be for trucks mostly. Non-flanged nuts can be done, 1in also? What about doing truck air brake valves? Let me know what valves you would like to see. We may be able to do these up in a "Truck Detail Kit" that would have bolts, nuts and valves. Just looking to see if there is any interest.

Excellent, thank you very much. I will be able to use that.

PM on the way, Texas 3D has the dash now.

So, this is the current status of the dash. I need to print one more and maybe tweak a few things, but it should be as close as you can get to the original. A few of the smaller details will need to be enlarged a bit, as they print so small, the detail is there, but you need a magnifier to see it. I am thinking of scaling a few things up, so that there is a detail large enough to paint.

If someone has a donor cab that they are willing to loan out for a bit, I can create a grill or 2 for this new/reissue kit.

So, I am working on a new top for this. I have something to work with, however as it started as an STL file it was beyond the computing power of my current PC. I just spent a fortune on a new monster Mac M2 Pro and I hope this will solve the issues I have been having with a few projects. Once drawn, the challenge will be printing without warping. Good thing that is going to be handled by someone far more skilled than I am in that area. If anyone has seats and center console from the original, I would love to see detailed pictures and dimensions from that. I would like to do both front seats, rear seat and center console. With the top and parts from other kits, we can build a completely stock Blazer.

So if anyone has a set of these mirrors, I would love to see them. It looks like something easy to replicate and offer, but it would be great to have a picture and dimensions. The instructions drawing is good, but does not give me enough to go on.

He he doesn't I do.

Do you have any more information on them? Dimensions? Tires only? Wheels, Hubs? Material? Hard Resin, rubber, TPU? PM Me what you know and we can talk.

I think you guys are right, frame extensions would be the way to go. Great info, let me mull it over and see if this is something that would be worth offering.

I love the old "Doodle Bugs" these were as unique as the farmer that made them. Nearly all started with some kind of Model T or Model A as a base, but from there it was whatever the farmer could get his hands on. They were never a commercially available tractor, all were hand built. Though there may have been some conversion kits made. From a model standpoint, you can build it wrong. Start with a Model T and raid the parts box. Just identify a year that the farmer would have built it, and choose parts older than that year. A lot of these were built in the years following the Great Depression, spending money on a tractor was just not an option. They used anything they could get to farm whatever land they had. These could be a really fun little project.

So, I should have been more clear. My plan, if this were to happen, would be to offer them in PLA, not resin. These would be printed on an FDM style printer. They would be strong, no sag. While resin does offer great details, PLA/PET-G/ABS off better structural strength. So, these frame rails would need some sanding, but PLA is easy to sand. I would need to expand my printer, or make a new one as my printer is 12in x 12in and would only allow for a few 16in rails at a time. To make it a viable option, I would need to expand it to 18 x 18 to get as many on the bed in line as possible. The big thing here is, demand. If there is no demand, it is not worth doing. I can print my own on my current printer.