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Mixalz

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About Mixalz

  • Rank
    MCM Friend

Previous Fields

  • Are You Human?
    yes
  • Scale I Build
    1/24

Profile Information

  • Location
    Australia
  • Full Name
    Michael Atzemidakis

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  1. Had this with my R34 model. Hot water bath worked. Start with warm watet and slowly add water from your kettle (stir and leave model out so you dont warp the model whilst pouring) until it is malleable enough to work. Once aligned allow to coold on bench (hold in place). Afterwards mildly thermal cycle to ensure model is stable. I did this by placing in food dehydrator for 3 hours at 40 deg C and then after cooled to room temp placed in fridge for 3 hours. Check body. If correct then it is stable. If not then repeat (the models store some stress and can deform after thermocycling). Im no material scientist but it has worked for me in the past. Cheers
  2. Making me want to buy another kit! Did his one years ago as my first go with spray cans (before I got an airbrush). Yours pops.
  3. Wow. Impressive is an understatement. Amazing work and skill.
  4. Thanks. Been a bit of work. So today my cousin was nice enough to help me solve my spoiler issue. I took a big wing from another car which is similar in style. We traced out the profile onto paper as below: Then we scanned it and used a modelling program to modify the profile outline to match the spoiler we were copying. Sizes were confirmed using digital calipers. Then the model was extended to the right length. And then we hit print. After a coffee and some cakes it was done. And it worked beautifully. Now the only real issue which was easily manageable, was the striations due to the printing method. These are very visible but I have hand painted Mr Surfacer 500 over the whole wing and then I threw it in the dehydrator for 2 hours. After that I sanded the sucker back to 600 grit and now its ready for primer. Results to come soon. Cheers
  5. Mainly curious as to what resin/material to pour into the mould. I have silicones I can use from work for making the moulds.
  6. Thanks for the kind comments. I've really enjoyed this build. The CF was applied the good old fashion way of masking tape to make my own templates. A few curses and breakdowns thrown in too. Car is ready now. Just missing the spoiler. I am going to try to 3D print something similar but no idea if it will work. Have even considered casting something but not sure about the process. Does anyone know how to do castings? Cheers
  7. Thanks for looking. Last couple of days I had some free time so I got cracking again. Started the interior with dash. Carbon decal then light coat of clear followed by guages and then clear to seal it all in. Tried to simulate the alcantara with Mr Color paints: black + gray + flat base rough. Gave it a textured look. Steering wheels tended to be darker in photos to misted it with black to give the textured appearnce. Interior had a bit of carbon work to get done. Roll cage glued up. Wheels painted. Interior and engine bay in place. Some shots of the extra work on the shell. As always thanks for looking!
  8. Thanks for helping! The engine carbon is not gonna be fun then. I'll try or go for black if I cant get it to work. The interior wasnt all carbon as far as I saw. I only did side steps and center console. Your colour is great man. Alclads for everything metal really. - Aluminium - Polished aluminium - Pale gold (I think)
  9. This is such a clean build. Great work. The wheels are perfect!
  10. Love the color and polish. Great build
  11. Good hint. Been using tack clothes but these are difficult for small parts
  12. Took some photos of the update of where I got to today. Engine/ some interior was built last year. Did the carbon on the front/sides/rear today then clear coated. Trial fit body - noted it will be easier to locate the body in the shell and then glue the front bumper last. James, the carbon work is a PAIN on the front. Dont know about engine bay if its all carbon or not. If it is, I may cry. Thanks for looking!
  13. Hi James, If you could do me a MASSIVE favour I'd really appreciate it. Could you please trace the exact (as well as you can) outline of the long piece of the spoiler (piece 116). If you trace the shape of the SIDE/FITTING face (where the little pins are; dont need to include the pins though) then I could transfer that shape to some CAD software and 3D print a new piece. Thanks!
  14. I cant find the spolier!!! I think I may have lost it during my move
  15. Epic bodywork. Will follow this one closely
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