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About absmiami

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    MCM Ohana

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    Miami Fl
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    Andrew Sapiro

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  1. Now back to The fuel distribution links ...I’ve made some links from nickel silver and I soldered up some .047 and .024 Brass tube to make the knuckle of the first of two central links ... And there is a .022 cap screw at the leading edge of the knuckle fr RB Motion painted black. That’s the screw that secures this part to the cross rod. ... on the real engine ...
  2. 2 of the The inspection plates on the valve train cover Are safety wired. So I have removed the printed bolts and drilled some .012 holes for bolts. Gonna see if I can add the safety wires Would never bother with this except that this is going to be a display engine.
  3. Hey simon pagenaud wins the Indy 500 again !!! Oops ... header tabs galore ...
  4. And and and do you have/recall details of the engine ????? and yes. Photos would be really cool ... there are some good photos of the restored car from its display at the Amelia concourse in 2012 ...
  5. Once the linkage bar is on I took a shot at the leaver or crank or whatever it’s called. There are - per the drawings - 2 in the center of the cross bar - made fr .040 brass tube soldered onto .024 tube and then soldered to a small piece of .010 nickel strip - the tip of the strip will slide into a short length of .024 alu tube...
  6. Right cyl head post main thing is to align the linkage rod ... then the left hand cyl head post ...
  7. Painted the fuel blocks with some Polly S blue anodized paint and then some flat black for the frame These paints dry quickly - so just a short time later I epoxied the nickel bracket - the location is tricky because of the stagger in the Cyl heads. But I think l got a good location. Now I can make the left and right hand brackets ...
  8. I managed to drill some .013 holes into the top of the gear train cover and placed two .013 pins and pinned the fuel block assembly in place. This allowed me to epoxy the bracket and make the adjustments needed to center the cross bar that holds the linkage levers - 2 in the center and one each side for the linkage to the injectors
  9. Starting with some .024 nickel rod I bent this to the shape of the bracket that straddles the fuel blocks in the center of the front gear train cover and soldered it to a strip of Nickel strip. Finished with some files and sanding sticks and careful with the balsa wood. It is flammable ...
  10. Shortly after my book order. Auto books informed me that the Ford performance reprint was not available - but they did agree to seek Ford’s permission to do another reprint - or perhaps something electronic. We’ll see anyway - here’s an update ...
  11. The A pillar. If you have 5 different hobby saws and 3 different scribers - one will work and the rest will not ... do you have a spare body to experiment with ???
  12. Just ordered mine. Was not aware of the reprint. Thanks again Some slow going. Removed some of the valve cover bolts and drilled .0125 holes for some .012 nickel rod- then cut and drilled .015 by .040 evergreen strip these will Serve as the bases for the plug looms - which are on their way from detail master. Also placed some .047 plastic plugs into the cylinder head to hold the base of the carbs and you’ll notice from the mock up shot the stagger of the cylinder heads. Not sure that the Gurney Eagle kit got this right. - will check
  13. Would love to see the doors swing open. But you must be xtra careful with those slender A pillars ... hi Tim ...
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